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haha decent climb but very interesting experience. The climbing is easy with jugs all about, but a bit chossy and my pro was spaced out. issue was no anchors, and we didn't know to top out or not. there was no anchors and on the top there was removable (screw in bolts), that were not there. so I actually traversed on the ledge at like 12-15m (where the book says it ends) and finished the 17 sport next door, and cleaned from there. tiny brassy was my pro for the ledge traverse, a few meters above my last cam haha!
This route no longer has an anchor at the top, so be prepared use gear to make one at the top a fair way back from the edge. You can also sling the tree a few meters behind the crack up there to back it up if you like. It looks like previous bolts were removed from this for the anchor, but I'm not sure when this happened. In general, this route is pretty chossy and way shittier than the several routes lower down at Piddo.
Strong start into pumpy jugs. traversed off left at the top. slung the tree and boulder to make a belay.
Could do with lower offs under the rooflet for ease
powerful start, then jugs all the way with nice gear. Couldn't find any lower-offs then saw some drill holes in the rock (maybe they've been removed). Had to belay off tree 10m back from the edge
Bouldery start. Be careful of the hollow sounding ledges as they could break off (belayer stand off to the side). Final third has little or no pro, so traverse off to the left and up. 2 rings for belay - albeit they are 1 metre apart
Seconded by faint moonlight - a surreal and internal experience. I've never felt such sensitivity in my footwork before, and I almost felt hyper-aware of my balance.
Great jungle-gym climbing but the rock quality gets worse near the top. Traversed left after the crack to avoid climbing the thin, chossy flakes at the top.
Good for the first two thirds, then a bit of a dodgytraverse left to the finish. Very hard to clean while abseiling down due to final gear placements off to the side. Bolts at the top are a long way back.
Teaching some friends to trad climb. Climbed on 4 pieces of gear, I think. The rock feels sandy and chossy, BUT strangely seems really solid. Interesting blend of crack and jug hauling, at the grade.
