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West (Left) Side

Stagionalità

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Descrizione

On the left (west) side of the small creek. Mostly sport but worth bringing a basic rack for the mixed routes. Routes described left to right.

Like "The Soft Parade", this area has steep, eroded and unstable topouts, which after the 2020 fires also have ash, burnt vegetation and damaged tree belays. Topping out is therefore not advised without prior inspection. The west side was more severely burnt than the east side.

There has been some very destructive clearing of ferns to add some worthless starts to existing climbs.

© (mjw)

Limitazioni per l'accesso ereditato da New York

Some of the bolts at New York are unusual experimental glue-in staples from the '90s. The worst are being slowly replaced.

©

Avvicinamento

Turn left where the track splits at the big fallen tree and boulder in the gully.

© (mjw)

Etica ereditato da Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

Tags

Alcuni contenuti sono stati forniti sotto licenza da: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

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Route located in cave on west (left) side as you approach gully. Sit start beneath overhanging prow. Climb up and finish matched on break.

FA: Bevan Ashby, 30 Set 2015

1st route you come to on the western side of the gully.

FA: S.Squires, 1998

FA: S.Squires, 1996

Grab the pinch and punch out left, then crank through steepness to arête. Then up and right to fourth. There are different views on "if the tree is in". If not it's a little thin off the deck, but fun.

Straight up. Was originally graded 18 however is now recorded in local guide as a 20.

FA: D.Geraghty & S.Squires, 1996

Shares a start with 'Are you Loathsome Tonight?'. There is a route before this, and someone has added a direct start but they are quite worthless and an environmental abomination. Was originally graded 17 now recorded in local guide as a 20.

FA: D.Geraghty & S.Squires, 1996

Low-angled corner with plenty of placements, and more to be cleaned. Burnt tree anchors above wall of burnt scree. FA please name and claim.

Take a small friend for the top and a bolt plate for the first clip, it's rings after that. Hard first move, then some cool and unusual climbing. Definitely worth taking a small rack to the crag. Start: A couple of metres left of the arete - SDS.

FA: D.Geraghty & S.Squires, 1996

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The arete.

FA: S.Squires & D.Geraghty, 1996

Follow the obvious flake lines through much technicality to the top.

FA: S.Squires, 1998

Corner. Traverse right under roof to ring bolt lower offs. Don't see how this is a 16. (It does appear that some holds have broken off around waist level.)

FA: S.Squires, 2000

Corner and hand crack.

FA: S.Squires, 1996

Up face past 3 hangers clip LC anchor

FA: C George, 2007

Start: The wall to arete right of Lyrebird Corner. A cam is possible (recommended) in the obvious crack to alleviate runout.

FA: S.Squires & D.Geraghty, 1996

The staircase with a hard first step. Newbies beware between the third and fourth and tap the rock above the fourth, it is hollow and sounds it.

Start: Around the arete from FF5.

FA: D.Geraghty & S.Squires, 1996

Hard start and mantle then up a cruisy slab. There are only three bolt brackets on this route and it is runout. Anchors are also brackets, take care of your rope. Gets filthy after rainfall.

FA: degroot, jones & craswell, 2006

FA: jones

FA: Jones & Corkill

FA: P Corkill, Craswell & Jones

Up fingercrack (gear available), negotiating small rooflet to fixed hanger, then straight on up the line of bolts.

FA: DeGroot, Corkill & Jones, 2006

FA: Craswell & DeGroot, 2006

Start: Crack to slab and corner. About 20m right of 'Spoonbender'.

FA: S.Squires & D.Geraghty, 1996

FA: P.Craswell & A.Jones, 2006

FA: A.Jones & P.Craswell, 2006

FA: C George, 2006

FA: H Sutton, 2006

Rising traverse.

Start: Left hand side of the small gully about 40m right of 'Spoonbender'.

FA: S.Squires & D.Geraghty, 1996

The route on the wall to the right of FYW.

Start: Traverse right from undercut start and up the arete.

FA: S.Squires, 1996

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Selected Guidebooks more Nascondi

Autore/i: Simon Carter

Data: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079082

The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.

Autore/i: Simon Carter

Data: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079075

Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!

Alloggi in zona more Nascondi

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