Ascensioni in Sublime Point da Macciza a.k.a. Macca

Hmmm not bad... bit of a ‘weird scenes inside the goldmine’ type day ... Route is a bit over bolted imho but most probably like it like that. Swung pitches...

Found the line and gave it a few shots, not too hard. Done with a sit ....

Lovely day out! Classic line ...

Sorry Steve but that chalk on it was from us trying it previously. I figured seems everyone had missed it so far it would be safe for a bit longer, damn.

Climbing with a dodgy shoulder that gave out at the crux move. Pain, and an unlikely to follow seconder, denied me a shot at the obvious direct version that I had coveted and which had just fallen to Zac . . .

Rapped in one evening in winter (6 mths ago) and rope-soloed the top two pitches

Climbing with a dodgy shoulder that gave out at the crux move. Pain, and an unlikely to follow seconder, denied me a shot at the obvious direct version that I had coveted and which had just fallen to Zac . . .

Rapped in one evening in winter (6 mtgs ago) and rope-soloed the top two pitches

Close , , , maybe next time , , , Also started on Thumbs In (Direct variant)

Climbed to crux, and can climb crux, all gear is good, time to pull the thumb out . . .

Top-rope solo self-belay free attempt after aid - solo, in order to clean gear. All moves freed with rests - hopefully next attempt will be for the tick.

1st Pitch - Solo Clean aid ascent - Cams and wires . . Maybe only M3 on modern small gear and technique . . Then had self-belay top-rope free attempt and freed the aids . . Probably Classic Blue Mountains 23 when all is said and done . .

FFA.

Free to ledge

Direct Extended version

Extended Gear Beta for ground-up attempts...

Ignore if you wish to go for the complete onsight.

Read on if you wish for bit more safety...

Small cam and C3 00/Metolius Offset 0 protect up to the roof. Good old style BD 4 or reasonable DMM in slot in corner of roof, equalised with WC 0 offset in roof... Optional Black Totem around the roof to left. Climb through the roof.

Medium wire and small cam in corner crack above roof. WC Offset 2.5 or maybe a similar Metolius/Totem in strange pocket to right. Traverse right a few metres to below crux. Good Red DMM, not Totem, in horizontal that uses the best part of the hold, and/or small wires/ micro cams in thin horizontal above. This is the crux gear here, and has been fallen on...

Climb through crux. Optional Red Totem after the crux but could cause problems if being seconded. Yellow to Silver DMMs should cover the rest. Belay, Purple to Yellow Totems.

Tie in to both ends of a rope (or two ropes) and use one for first section only. Clip second rope into black Totem (if used) and the good gear in crack above roof. Find rest with knee bar assist and untie first rope then climb on. This manoeuvre avoids rope drag across lip of roof. You could also solo up the face to the left, traverse over and place/pre-clip this gear to pre-protect the start if that fits your ethics.. YMMV.

My trad ascent back in the day was with a rest before the crux, 24M0. Good luck, stay solid, make sure your gear is good, have fun and try not to break your ankles... Cheers...

FFA.