Nodi in North Buttress

As of May 2021, the crag remains affected from the January 2020 fires: https://canberraclimbing.org.au/access-submissions/booroomba-rocks-after-the-fires/

The first sector on the major imposing buttress seen to your right from the lookout. Home to Booroomba's classic multipitch wall climbs.

Traverses the 'North Buttress' from right to left at a fairly even standard, if you don't get lost... (see various topos). Start below the prominent chimney of 'Roderick' ('Cave wall' lower tier).

1. 30 metres - Scramble up to the base of the chimney, move left to the prominent ledge and walk left 20 metres to the three (second 'Hermes' belay).

2. 15 metres - Step down and move left past a tree and exposed rib to an alcove (third 'Indecision' belay).

3. 18 metres - Reverse the third pitch of 'Indecision'; traverse left under the overhang to a cramped ledge.

4. 18 metres - Continue leftwards into a corner and step up onto 'The Prow', belaying at the left end.

5. 24 metres - Leftwards along a ledge and over a water streak to more ledges.

6. 34 metres - Traverse easily leftwards on ledges, tending slightly down, to a large block.

7. 36 metres - More descending traversing until you cross the crack below 'Linear Crack'. Climb the left side of this crack and move left to a broken ledge.

8. 18 metres - Across the slab and move down and around the corner to below the chimney on the second pitch of 'Vent Crack'.

9. 34 metres - Up to the base of the chimney and traverse horizontally over a gap and and around a rib. Descend slightly and continue left to good ledges.

10. 36 metres - From the edge of the ledge, climb a wall for five metres and traverse left and finally up to a good ledge.

11. 35 metres - Along the ledge and diagonally up to below a downwards pointing flake. Left and across a slab to a small ledge and poor belay.

12. 22 metres - The top of the fifth pitch of 'Denethor'; up the easy slab to a large, bushy shelf.

The second longest route in the ACT, and one of the longest in Australia. Probably just less than 500 metres, but potential over that if you get lost along the way.

The description for this is basically as per "The Girdle Traverse", but add a lot more climbing to the end to make the route traverse the Northern Buttress in its entirety.

Traverses the 'North Buttress' from right to left at a fairly even standard, if you don't get lost... (see various topos). Start below the prominent chimney of 'Roderick' ('Cave wall' lower tier).

When the Original traverse gets to "Denethor" continue traversing left across the Northern Slabs past the second rap station of "Counterbalance" ", the second last belay of "Equilibrium", the last belay of "Hands Free", then traverse an unknown line left under an overlap to join "Sunstroke" halfway through its last pitch, continue left and finish up the last pitch of "Drunken Delight".

This was done in a bunch of mostly rope stretching 50+ metre pitches, in 10 pitches in total. It could be done in many other pitch combinations so just follow your nose and belay wherever seems appropriate for you.

It may be a girdle link up, BUT this makes for a stellar day out on a great wall and is the closest thing to a big wall free route that you could hope for in the ACT. Well worth a long, fun day out!

Not worth the effort. Start at a wide crack uphill (right) from 'Little Hermes'.

1. 15 metres - Bridge past the off-width and follow the crack up left. Walk right to belay.

2. 25 metres - Up the wide V-groove (horrible) then step left and up the corner as for 'Little Hermes Left Hand Variant'.

Popular. Start in a small recess just right of a large pillar directly below the roof pitch of 'Hermes'.

1. 32 metres - Climb the slabs and ledges to a tree, then up the crack and wall to a good ledge. Up the slab using the leftwards slanting crack to a grassy ledge and tree belay ('Hermes' second belay).

2. 18 metres - Pleasant. Start from a belay at big blocks 15 metres to the right of the tree, climb a short wall, pull through the hanging flakes and the corner above, then up a rib on the left of a gully. Tree belay.

An alternative and slightly harder variation from the ledge on the second pitch. Instead of the rib, climb the leftwards slanting groove to the left.

Not as poxy as it sounds. Start at a flake four metres right of the final layback/roof pitch of 'Hermes'. Up the flake and make a committing move to reach the bolt. Hardish face moves past this to a thin crack leading to the top.

A contrived line that detracts from 'Hermes'. Up the second pitch of 'Hermes' for three metres then move right onto the face and up past two bolts.

A classic. The intimidating roof section is easier than it look. Start at the left-hand side of the pillar four metres left of 'Little Hermes'. A large cam is required to safely protect both pitches (#5 is ideal, but a #4 will suffice if you're happy to wriggle in to place it).

1. 24 metres - Climb the chimney and corner crack to the top, step right and climb a short wall to a good ledge. Climb the slab, using a thin crack, to a tree belay (originally done in two pitches).

2. 26 metres - Up the magnificent corner crack (#5 protects potential ledge fall) and out right under the overhang. Belay on the ledge above or eight metres right.

This is generally the way Fearon is climbed. Climb the first pitch of Hermes to the start of Fearon.

Excellent. Start at the top belay of Hermes below a shallow corner. Climb the wall past two bolts, moving slightly right at the second. Belay at the rap station if you're coming back down, otherwise continue scrambling and belay on gear at the top. When rapping keep right and have a long arm ready to reach the belay.

An obstinate old aid climb that repulsed a number of attempts to free it over the years. Tobin Sorensen took a big plummet off it, ripping out an old aid bolt, and it was left to local lad Crushed to finally free it. In a great position with decent climbing to follow. Start from the top belay of 'Hermes'. Traverse left then up the leftwards curving crack, passing two bolts. Belay and rap as for Alicia. A hanging belay was used on the first free ascent but is not recommended.

From the top belay of 'Hermes', traverse left (passing under 'Scimitar') then up a nice hand crack to join 'Fearon Variant Finish'. Once the climbing eases off, it is possible to head right up a ramp and blocks to the rap anchor above Alicia.

A circular exercise out of 'Hermes' roof to join 'Thor'. Move left from under the roof, around the lip and up a groove then back right to the belay.

Instead of climbing the chimney, exit by a crack on the right.

Takes the open-book ramp left of the 'Hermes' roof, originally climbed with a peg for aid. Start beneath the second pitch of 'Hermes'.

1. 30 metres - Climb the blocky wall behind the tree, then a groove and short wall on the left to a stance. Up the steepening ramp and exit awkwardly to a small niche on the left. A short groove on the right then step left to belay at the entrance to a deep fissure.

2. 35 metres - Chimney easily to the top of the huge block then step back onto the main face. Climb cracks and grooves up more broken rock to finish up a short rib on the right.

Avoids the wide bits - recommended. Start below blocks leaning against the face four metres left of 'Hermes'.

1. 25 metres - Up the blocks, then an awkward move to gain a crack. Continue up a ramp to a ledge. Scary climbing up the slab above; leftwards at first then up and right to belay on the large ledge as for 'Hermes'.

2. 30 metres - From the left side of the ledge climb diagonally up the blocky wall then leftish to stance at base of chimney. Against your better judgement follow the flake into exposed thin crack on the arete (shared with Incisor). At the top of this step right and up short V-corner to belay on large ledge.

3. 35 metres - Climb to the top of a huge triangular leaning flake with some trepidation, then step onto the face and continue up scoops to the top of the Fearon block. Finish as for 'Fearon'.

A good climb - interesting and varied. Start below blocks leaning against the face four metres left of 'Hermes'.

1. 25 metres - A bit harder now the top block has gone. Up the blocks, then an awkward move to gain a crack. Continue up a ramp to a ledge. Scary climbing up the slab above; leftwards at first then straight up to belay in the chimney.

2. 30 metres - Up the chimney past some dubious rock and a large wedged flake to a niche on the left. A short V-corner leads to a large ledge.

3. 35 metres - Climb to the top of a huge triangular leaning flake with some trepidation, then step onto the face and continue up scoops to the top of the Fearon block. Finish as for 'Fearon'.

Outstanding climbing up a powerful line. Start below the obvious fang on the left wall of the chimney six metres left of Big Boris. Originally pitch two was split, and climbed further to the left, but the route as described was done shortly after and is better.

1. 20 metres - Up (with trepidation!) the chossy stacked flakes to the fang, undercling left and around the lip, then follow the crack upwards to belay two metres right of the 'Indecision' corner.

2. 35 metres - Up the crack through the overlap, moving right at the horizontal break to the arete. Up knobs then up and left to a large ledge, move up and back right onto the arete and climb a short V-groove swinging right at the top into the short corner at the top of pitch two of 'Big Boris'. Up to belay.

3. 35 metres - Finish as for 'Big Boris' Pitch 3 - Climb to the top of a huge leaning flake with some trepidation, then step onto the face and continue up scoops to the top of the Fearon Block. Finish as for 'Fearon' Pitch 2, climbing cracks and grooves up more broken rock to finish up a short rib on the right.

Start 5m left and down from the start of Incisor just right of the arete. Climb up through two horizontal breaks then up left around the arete to finish more easily up a groove to the belay for Incisor/Indecision. It is well protected with natural gear.

Direct but contrived. The crux is awkward to protect; the first free attempt saw six falls taken with one protagonist knocked out! Three pegs were used for aid on the first pitch on the first ascent. Start from the first belay on 'Determinant'.

1. 20 metres - Climb the steep crack (crux) at the right-hand end of the wall, and then the groove to exit left onto the ledge.

2. 25 metres - Climb the wall left of the belay, and the crack through the overhang and up the right crack to a ledge.

3. 15 metres - Climb the right-hand of the two cracks above the ledge and over broken ground to a spike.

4. 30 metres - Up the imposing crack on the left of the 'Fearon' block, moving right at the horizontal crack and then up the nose to the top of the block. Finish as for 'Fearon'.

Climbs to the top of the 'Fearon' block via the crack between the left of the block and the wall. Finish as for 'Fearon' by stepping onto the face.

Indirect but sustained at the grade. Start at a v-cleft at the base of the cliff, shared with Fiasco. Alternatively, skip the modern addition of the first pitch and go straight to the original route, which starts below a steep ramp above the first belay on 'Determinant'.

1. 40m (18) Up the easy leftwards crack / ramp for 10m as for Fiasco. Up and right across the slab passing three bolts. Up the corner for 10m. Clip the last bolt on the short headwall, and make a last tricky move past this (or take the rightwards 'pike-out' easier finish) onto the large bushy ledge.

2. 20m (18) Delicately leftwards along the ramp and up a crack to a cramped belay beneath the overhang. A good pitch.

3. 18m (12) Traverse right to below a steep corner crack.

4. 18m (18) Climb the narrowing corner crack past a horizontal break to a ledge. Some aid was used on this pitch during the first ascent.

5. Finish up 'Big Boris'.

An alternative pitch 2m left of 'Indecision' P3 and right of 'The Stringer' P2. Up the shallow left-hand corner, around the lip and up the crack.

A wandering climb with a good exposed slab and a classic crack finish ('Terminant Corner'). Start where the track first touches the 'nose' of the cliff, at a short steep-looking hand crack with two smaller ones either side.

1. 20m (15) Up the short crack to a ledge. More easily to the base of a slab split by a thin crack straight ahead and a wider one further left. Step left into the left-facing layback crack. Up this to belay on the large bushy ledge.

2. 20m (15) Climb the short corner behind the tree. Up the slab with gear in horizontal breaks out right, then a bolt up high, to gain another large ledge (the top of the original route's first pitch).

3. 30m (15) From the left side of the ledge move left across the slab (crux), then up and left to a short corner crack to 'The Prow'. Belay on gear or the rap station at the left side of 'The Prow'. Climb straight up off the belay on very easy ground to get good high protection for the slab.

4. 55m (12) Climb the right-hand side of the block above the rap station, then traverse right along the break and up a narrow slab. Continue easily up the bushy ramp to tree belay below the prominent corner.

5. 35m (15) Up the corner crack. Head left to avoid the lichen-filled wide crack, step up a level then back right to finish with a step across the void.

A wandering climb with a good, exposed slab on the second pitch. Start 25 metres left and down from 'Hermes' at the biggest tree around. 'Terminant Corner' is now the accepted way to finish.

1. 20m (15) Climb the easy slab, keeping to the right, to a large bushy ledge (or just walk up the manky ramp on the right to the belay!)

2. 30m (15) From the left side of the ledge move left across the slab (crux), then up and left to a short corner crack to 'The Prow'. Belay on gear or the rap station at the left side of 'The Prow'. Climb straight up off the belay on very easy ground to get good high protection for the slab.

3. 20m (12) Climb the right-hand side of the block above the rap station, then traverse right along the break and up a narrow slab to a tree belay.

4. 26m Walk on up the slab and chossy ledge.

5. 28m (15) Ascend a wide groove down and left from the imposing corner crack ('Terminant Corner'). Move left across a small slab and pull up onto a ledge.

6. 20m (15) Up and step onto the rib on the left. Cruise to the top.

This wall was bolted and climbed by Crushed and Dave Sargent, but they aided it (19M1) and didn't bother naming it. Start as for 'Terminant Corner'. Climb up the corner and out onto the wall. Hard moves past three bolts lead to the arete and a crack. At the ledge, go up the crack to a good finish which hand traverses left.

The corner crack above the fourth belay of Determinant. Can be done as one pitch if you take care of rope drag.

1. 25 metres - Climb the corner to a ledge.

2. 10 metres - Move left and exit (loose) back right.

An alternative final two pitches, harder and more direct than the original.

1. 25 metres - Up the weakness a little, but then up a crack on the right to a ramp.

2. 20 metres - From the top of the ramp climb the corner right of a flake and finish left of the overhang.

Small, steep and perverse. The crack above the right-hand end of the 'Determinant' slab (the one used for runners for the slab). (original name changed)

Obscure. The crack and roof to the left of the crux on 'Danielle' (the third pitch). Can be approached up 'Indecision' P1, or by traversing right from the top of The Prow. Grunt through the overhang on sharp awkward jams. Step left and mantle up. Step back right and follow the right-leaning hand crack up the slab. At the overlap head left, then easily up fist-sized knobs to finish on the Determinant bushy ramp.

Start below two water streaks on a boulder above the big bushy ledge on 'Determinant'. Up the right-hand streak past some wires and two bolts (one of which replaces a fixed #0 RP from the first ascent). Move right and up to a bush and cam belay. Finish up 'Determinant'.

A rather desperate slab; double ropes are handy. Start as for 'Private Wound'. Put a side runner in the corner, then climb the left-hand streak past a #5 RP to the first bolt. Continue up the slab with crux moves at the third bolt. From the fourth bolt head diagonally left, joining 'Yellow Brick Road' at a large flake, and up to belay.

A good climb in an exposed position. Start eight metres up the scrubby ramp of the fourth pitch of 'Determinant' at the stepped crack.

1. 20 metres - Climb the crack to the top of the pinnacle (bolt belay). (Climbed later as a finish to 'Danielle'. The original route went up the left side of the pinnacle, now renamed 'Wicked Witch of the West'.)

2. 40 metres - Climb the steep wall past the first bolt (crux), up to the second, then out right to a large flake. Up, then left to a crack and up to a good ledge. Move left then up to the top.

Contrived, but nevertheless more interesting than any alternative. Start on the Prow, four metres right of the big block. Straight up the steep slab and face past three bolts. DBB on top of the 'Yellow Brick Road' pinnacle. Finish up 'Yellow Brick Road'.

Start from the top of the block on the third pitch of 'Determinant'. Good climbing up the cracked nose in the centre of the 'Yellow Brick Road' pillar. Finish up 'Yellow Brick Road'.

Start on the block above the third pitch of Determinant, or at DBB level with the start of the crack.

1. 20m (18) Up the left crack on the left side of the buttress to DBB as for Yellow Brick Road. (Once upon a time, this was YBR).

2. 40m (20) Initially as for Yellow Brick Road to second bolt, then go left to a third bolt. Straight up from here.

One of the best early climbs. It ascends the right side of the Prow and then follows a groove on the right-hand side of 'The Central Slabs'. Start at a corner 30 metres below and left from 'Determinant'.

1. 8 metres - Easily up the crack to a ledge.

2. 12 metres - Climb the wall on its left, using the incipient crack - probably the crux.

3. 15 metres - Climb a short wall on the left and then the groove to a spacious ledge on the left.

4. 30 metres - A steep pitch which has dealt out its fair share of screamers. Climb past a tree stump (which is now a mature eucalypt) then continue up the corner crack, which cuts diagonally right, to the Prow. Walk left for 10 metres to some large rounded blocks.

5. 50 metres - Climb the right-hand side of the blocks, left up a short wall, then easily up the groove system to a tree belay beneath a chimney.

6. 38 metres - The chimney and crack above, using the curving slab on the left. Up into a recess and exit using a series of corners on the left.

Originally misnamed 'Prow Direct'. Start at the base of the 'Fiasco' groove. Move up and left onto the steep slab, then follow the cleaned line diagonally left to the huge ledge below 'The Prow'.

Sustained and strenuous climbing up the left side of 'The Prow'. Start eight metres left of 'Fiasco'.

1. 25 metres - climb the gap between the two flakes to a large ledge, then up the left side of a flake and delicately right to a ledge.

2. 15 metres - The third pitch of 'Fiasco'. Climb the wall, then the groove to a spacious ledge in the left. Walk left to the leftmost crack.

3. 30 metres - Strenuously up the leftwards curving crack then a series of ledges to the left end of the prow.

4. 15 metres - Climb the wide crack past a tree to join 'Fiasco'.

A pleasant pitch that takes a direct line to the base of the 'Prow'. Start three metres right of 'Danielle', on the right side of the obvious flake. Easily to the top of the flake, step right to some wires then go straight up past three bolts.

This is a popular combination of routes that offers sustained climbing up 'The Prow'. From 'Moth' (or 'Place Without a Postcard') continue up 'Madrigal', followed by 'High at Kites' or 'Jett Arete' and finish up the second pitch of 'Yellow Brick Road'.

Indirect. Scramble up to a large ledge below a prominent triangular flake to the left of 'Jetts Sett'.

1. 30 metres - Climb the crack on the left to the top of the flake. Traverse right and up to a ledge. Climb a short wall and groove as for the third pitch of 'Fiasco', to a spacious ledge.

2. 35 metres - Up the corner crack to the tree and follow a groove right to exit onto the 'Determinant' slab. Traverse right above the slab to an overhanging flake and up this to the overlap. Traverse right to belay under the overhang (second belay on 'Indecision').

3. 30 metres - Traverse back left to a crack breaking the overlap. Climb this (crux) and the wall above to a vegetated ledge. Then finish up 'Yellow Brick Road'.

A nice cracky start with a sustained slab finish. Start below the left edge of a prominent triangular flake, at a diagonal crack. Up the flake, then left and up the brushed slab past two bolts to DBB on the ledge.

Start as for 'Rubbishman. Up this for four metres then up the ramp to a short corner. Step right and up to a bolt. Continue up the slab past another bolt to a ledge.

Start as for Rocketman up the thin crack. Climb diagonally up and right across the face, passing a bolt. Finish up the flake/crack on the upper face.

A true 'Prow Direct'! Start at the prominent orange flake crack in the centre of the 'Prow'. Up, then diagonally left to a balancy stance. Up the curved wall above past two bolts.

A sustained and exhilarating pitch up the left side of the 'Prow'. Start at the tree two metres right of the third pitch of 'Jetts Sett'. Up the steep wall to a sentry box. Exit left and follow the crack spiralling leftwards to finish on the side of the 'Prow'.

Multi-pitch slab climbing is the main attraction here, with some routes adding on a finish up the steep headwall.

A reasonable slab route wandering up a weakness on the right side of 'The Central Slabs'. Begin at the prominent leftwards diagonal a few metres left of the 'Place Without a Postcard' flake.

1. 40m (19) - Follow the diagonal crack to a scooped recess four metres left of the water streak ('Nothing Left'). Climb the short wall above and pull onto a small ledge below an incipient corner. Traverse well right to a big ledge and DBB as for 'Place Without a Postcard'.

2. 35m (19) - Back left along the ledge for a few metres and up the slab (four metres right of the water streak) for five metres to a curving seam and runner. Step down and move left and diagonally up across the water streak. More easily up then left along weaknesses to double bolt belay as for 'Closer In' P1. Finish up 'Closer In' or 'Outer Limit'.

Continues on with the third pitch of "Outer Limit"

Contrived in places and somewhat overtaken by 'Nothing Left', nevertheless a great climb wandering around the water streaks to the left of the 'Prow'. Start 6 metres left of Rubbishman below an easy, scoopy slab.

1. 30m (20) - Up the slab for eight metres to a thin rightwards diagonal, step left and then straight up to the 'Rubbishman' diagonal. Step back right, then up the steep slab past a bolt (clip with wire) to the large ledge. DBB on the right as for 'Place Without a Postcard'.

2. 30m (23) - Back left and up seven metres to a short diagonal for runners (as for 'Rubbishman'). Step left and up the slab to a bolt, then desperately up and right through a bulge to a ledge. Climb over a second bulge, then move right to DBB on the 'Prow'.

3. 30m (22) - Scary. Move back left along the ledge, then up to a bolt at five metres. Straight up the water streak to a jug (level with the tree on the right), then more easily to DBB on a large flat ledge.

4. 20m (18) - Move left along the ledge, then up the slab to the overlap. Pull through this into a short groove, then easily up the mossy rock to a spacious ledge and DBB. Finish as you will.

Excellent mostly-bolted crimping and slabbing blasting directly up the water streak, topped off with a sporty top pitch. Take wires and small cams (up to 2.5).

1. 47m (23) - Start as for 'Anything So Nothing'. Up the slab for a few metres to a diagonal crack, over this and follow the 'Rubbishman' diagonal left for a few moves. Climb straight up the streak on the wall up to a bolt, right and up past a second, then diagonally up left to a #1 friend in break (long sling), back right and continue up streak past three bolts to the bulge, straight over this (bolt) to a stance and double bolt belay.

2. 50m (22) Straight up the water streak past five bolts to a flat ledge and rap anchor at 30 metres. Belay here if you want to finish up 'Take It All'. Otherwise trend slightly left up slab (as for the fourth pitch of 'Anything So Nothing') to overlap (#2 friend). Over the overlap at a broken flake and up dirty rock to a large ledge with double bolt belay - a rope stretching 50 metres, if in doubt use the first belay.

3. 38m (21) - Off block right of the high rap anchor and up short cracks into left diagonal. Up wall past two bolts to jug and #1 Friend in diagonal overlap. Over this (#2 friend) and up easing wall and slab to bolt where slab steepens. Left past this to top of pillar and over blocks and ledges to double bolt belay on top.

Pity it isn't longer. Stolen from Mike Peck. Belay at the comfy ledge and double bolts on Nothing Left P2. The climbing starts on the vertical wall to the right. Interesting knobs and layaways up the wall past about seven bolts. Step right around the arete and desperately up the slab past two more bolts. A rap anchor here lets you lower off and do another route; otherwise head right and continue easily to top.

Another extreme and superb climb. Start at the incipient crack on the steep wall approximately 10 metres left of 'Rubbishman'. Up the crack to a tiny ledge, then slightly right through a slippery bowl (look closely for RP slots). Continue up the wall as for 'Rubbishman', mantle, reachy bolt, then move left around the arete. Trend leftwards up the RP protected slab to double bolt belay as for 'Closer In' P1. Three sets of RPs isn’t overkill.

A very good multi-pitch slab. Pull on the first bolt to drop two grades. Start at a short ramp one metre left of 'Chanel 19'. The route has more, and better, bolts than in 1982 (thanks Mike!).

1. 30m (24 / 22A0) - Up the short, steepening ramp to a bolt, pull the crux, then straight up to a bulging overlap. Onwards and upwards, trending slightly right to a diagonal break. Left along this to a double bolt belay. 4 bolts. Combining with the second pitch is recommended (~50 metres - use double ropes).

2. 30m (22) - Move diagonally left along the weakness for a few moves, then up the wall. Continue straight up to double bolt belay as for 'Closer In' P1. 4 bolts.

3. • a) 40m (20) - Step up into a small recess behind the belay, clip a bolt then move diagonally right up the slab. Continue trending right past two bolts to a slight ramp, step back left and pull up onto a stance at the base of an easy corner. Up this, step right to a bolt, then right to a ledge and double bolt belay (shared with 'Nothing Left' P2). Belay here to continue up 'Take it All'. For the original route continue up right to belay at the base of the right-hand headwall.
   • b) 50m (20) Start as for option A, but from the top of the easy corner trend up left past two bolts, then rightwards and up cracks to DBB at the base of the last pitch of 'Nothing Left'. Finish up this.

4. 35m (22) - A later addition. An exciting lead up the headwall left of 'Take it All'. Place a high wire in the corner then step right and straight up to the third bolt. Move left and up from here on opposing layaways for about eight metres (two more bolts), then up the easy leftwards corner system.This pitch was originally climbed with just one bolt (the third), back in the heady run-out days of 1982.

Sustained and poorly protected climbing when done. "Closer In has destroyed Further Out as a sustained and poorly protected climb, putting four bolts in the crux section." - Keith Bell. Start from the ledge approximately 40 metres left of 'Place Without a Postcard', where a pillar leans against the face.

1. 25m (19) - Climb the right side of the pillar, then up over a large flake on the right to a sloping ledge. Leftwards up a steepening ramp (originally aided with a peg), then step left to a large ledge.

2. a) 35m (18) - Pull onto the slabs behind the belay, trending slightly right past a small bush to reach a narrow ledge at 15 metres. Continue trending rightwards up a vague weakness in the slab to belay at a ledge (double bolt belay shared with 'Closer In' et al.).

   b) 35m (19) Alternatively and better, step diagonally right for a few moves from the right hand end of the large ledge, then straight up wall to a sickle shaped ledge/crack (Keith Bell). Finish as for 'Outer Limit' or 'Closer In'.

A popular four pitch route on the Central Slab. The first two pitches make an excellent moderate grade slab route - finish up Outer Limit, Rooty Hill or Dry Route, or bail left up the gully. Look for the bolts above a pillar, although the original set has been slightly pruned.

1. 50m (19/22) - Start from the ledge approximately 40 metres left of 'Place Without a Postcard', where a pillar leans against the face. Up the left side of the pillar and then onto the steep wall following bolts. Straight up the overlap (22) or step left and meander back (19). Move right and up past numerous bolts and sickle shaped crack to double bolt belay (shared with 'Rubbishman', 'Extreme Youth' et al.).

2. 50m (20) - Step up and left, up the flake, then straight up past two bolts. At the third bolt traverse left and slightly up to the fourth bolt. Continue up past a couple more bolts to a bolt belay at a small scoop.

3. 25m (22) - The easiest line up the steep blocky wall past two bolts, with a hard move to gain the slab. Double bolt belay to the right on the ledge.

4. 35m (19) - Up the corner then right to easy ground (shared with 'Space Wasted').

Another good climb on 'The Central Slabs'. Start at the pillar as for 'Closer In'.

1. 30m (20) - Climb the left side of the pillar, then move left and up (unprotected crux) to a ledge (the first belay on 'Further Out'). Climb up left to belay on a ledge below the overlaps.

2. 20m (16) - Up the overlaps and slabs to a scoopy ledge (shared with 'Jubilate' and 'Space Wasted').

3. 48m (20) - A fine pitch that takes a line up the slab between 'Space Waltz' and the third pitch of 'Outer Limit'. Traverse right to climb the left side of an overlap, then up the steepening grey slab (crux). Climb onto a huge undercut block from the right to find a bolt. Up the slab for 15 metres (crossing 'Closer In' between the bolts) to where it eases, then move right across a lichenous strip. Up the corner to join 'Outer Limit'.

An excellent direct climb up the slabs and headwall. Start left of the pillar of 'Closer In' and just right of 'Space Wasted', directly below bolts in blankness. The third pitch could now be one of the best at Booroomba.

1. 45m (23) – An initial delicate slab crux then enjoyable climbing following the bolts straight up to double-bolt anchor. Sport pitch.

2. 50m (21) – Straight up the slab, crossing 'Closer In' at about 25m, and continue up the water-streak just left of the lichen. Move slightly right near the top, up a small pleasant vertical wall on good edges to an anchor below the orange corner of 'Space Wasted'.

3. 40m (24) – Up the impressive overhanging orange corner on good gear, as for 'Space Wasted'. Continue straight up the open-book corner, with more great climbing up to a bolt. Bust out right and transition from dangling to slabbing. Continue up to a second bolt, follow the left-trending flake on good holds (brilliantly exposed) above, then straight up to DBB.

A very good route, although some of the climb (the second and part of the third pitches) is borrowed from existing routes and there was some dispute as to the style of the first ascent. The orange corner above the slabs (the fourth pitch) is in a superb position. Start seven metres left of 'Closer In' and just left of 'Megajules'.

1. 20m (23) - Boulder up to a bolt, trend right to some jugs, and follow them left to a second bolt. Move directly over a small bulge to a ledge.

2. 35 metres (16) Straight up easier slabs and overlaps to belay at a large scoopy ledge (shared with 'Jubilate' and 'Crimble Cromble').

3. 50m (20) Superb slab climbing. Venture onto the huge upper slab as for third pitch of 'Crimble Cromble', but where that climb exits right, continue up pitch two of 'Closer In'. Belay on the right beneath the overhanging orange corner (originally done without the bolts on 'Closer In'!)

4. 15m (22) - up the orange corner with a difficult exit on the left.

5. 35m (19) - Up the corner, then right to easy ground (shared with 'Closer In').

Will this sporty route re-ignite the slab-climbing craze of Booroomba's heyday? Try it yourself to find out. Start 25m left of 'Closer In'. Do some pull-ups on a nearby tree to warm up for the first-move crux.

1. 12m (22) Up the slab past three bolts to a large bushy ledge. Belay at the tree.

2. 25m (21) Boulder past the first bolt then crimpy slabbing up the wall above, using the black flake right of the bolts for a few metres then back left. 10 bolts. Double bolt belay on the main traverse ledge.

3. 54m (19) Up easily past two bolts then up the corner to the right (gear), crossing Jubilate and joining the start of Space Waltz. Crux move past the bolt up and left off the ledge, then follow comfy positive flakes up the steep slab. When the bolts run out head straight up to double bolt belay at the back of the recess. 10 bolts.

A good climb but the upper pitches are poorly protected and quite serious. It takes a line up the lower slabs right of 'Outer Limit' to finish on the left-hand side. Start 30 metres left of 'Closer In' at a short crack below a ledge.

1. 18m (15) - Climb the crack to the ledge and traverse easily right to a tree and large flat rock at the right-hand side.

2. 25m (18) - Climb through the bulge to gain a crack system. Follow this up and right to a ramp above. Move right along the ramp for a few metres, then step onto the slab above (just short of a ledge). Left to a bolt then up the slab to a large scoop on the 'Outer Limit' traverse (shared with 'Crimble Cromble' and 'Space Wasted').

3. 12m (16) - Serious, although there is gear if you look for it. Exit from the scoop on the left and traverse steeply up left to a corner to belay.

4. 45m (18) - Poorly protected. Leftwards onto a traverse line to within six metres of 'Linear Crack' (just before the bolts on 'Bananas in Pyjamas'), then up and right to an open corner. Double bolt belay in the recess above.

Start as for Jubilate.

1. 45m (18) – Up a short crack to a bushy ramp (optional tree belay here). Up the flaky corner right of the belay tree. Continue straight up where it divides to gain the right-trending v-corner. Jam, grovel or bridge your way up this. Exit onto the slab and up past two bolts to trad belay out right. Variant, better but harder: start up Double Canasta to the ledge.

2. 55m (21) – Up the rounded wall past two bolts to a scoopy ledge (gear). Head up and right to a shallow vertical layback flake. Exit the top of this (crux, bolt) to reach better holds. Follow your nose up and slightly right to eventually join ‘Closer In’ at the top of the pitch. Nine bolts all up.

The original route on 'The Central Slabs', a diagonal ascent from left to right. Start as for Jubilate.

1. 35m (18) - Ascend the short crack to a bushy ledge. Scramble up to a grey, flaky area (bolt). Traverse left along the flake then up and left past a couple of bolts, then up the shallow water runnel to a ledge (double bolt belay). Although still climbable, exfoliation all up the water runnel makes this pitch less enjoyable than before the 2020 fires.

2. 35m (3) - Traverse 20 metres right along a ledge system until it peters out, continue around a bulge and follow more ledges to beneath a vertical flake formed crack (double bolt belay shared with 'Closer In' et al.).

3. 42m (18) - Up the flake formed crack for 6 metres, then traverse right (well below the first bolt on 'Closer In') and then up and left to a ledge with small gear and a very dubious bolt. Up over ledges, a corner and mossy slab to a ledge and bush (or continue on to the second belay (double bolts) on 'Closer In' - this is the belay marked in the topo).

4. 24m (8) - Climb the crack, trending left for about six metres, then traverse left for about 12 metres and up into a short V-groove to double bolt belay.

5. 18m (18) - Climb the corner and crack above to the left side of the overhanging yellow rock, across the gap and onto a large ledge.

6. 25m (16) - Climb up right for five metres onto a flaky ledge, then up left to another. Continue over a short wall to the top.

From the top of the flakes on the first pitch of 'Outer Limit' trend right to a bolt. Continue up the wall to double bolt belay on ledge as for 'Outer Limit'. It appears most of the flake holds fell off in the 2020 fires, pretty much destroying this variant pitch.

A number of possibilities exist for good combinations of pitches. The most obvious is the first two pitches of 'Jubilate' followed by 'Outer Limit'.

A sustained combination at the grade up the left hand side of 'The Central Slabs'. Climb the first pitch and part of the second of 'Outer Limit' followed by the third and fourth pitches of 'Jubilate'.

Start at the bolt belay at the top of the first pitch of 'Outer Limit'. Takes the left-hand line of holds and scoops. Climb up carefully (a marginal 2 or 3 rock provides some protection four metres up) and onto a ramp and up the steep wall above.

Quite pleasant. Starts a few metres left of the fifth pitch of 'Outer Limit'. Up the short wall to the steep orange corner which converges to an arete at the top. Straight up, moving right to a tricky mantle near the top.

A companion climb. Start at a groove a few metres left of 'Dry Route'. Up the groove to an alcove and out through the rooflet. Up the crack and wall above to the top.

A serious direct route to the right of the top pitch of 'Jubilate'. Start at the third belay on 'Jubilate'. Move right and up to a bolt, then hard moves up to flakes. An easier but runout section then leads to the belay as for 'Jubilate' and 'Bananas in Pyjamas'.

A comparatively direct and well-protected route up the left side of the central slabs. Take a light rack and plenty of quickdraws. Start 20m left of Outer Limit, just left of the access rope for the Snickers Wall ledge.

1. 20m (16) Easily up the broken slab past a few bolts to belay next to a 2m spike below a corner.

2. 25m (20) Straight up the fused corner past a few bolts until the overlap. Through the overlap at the jug (good gear), stand up and clip a bolt. Slab up then right to DBB as for 'Outer Limit' P1.

3. 15m (18) Directly and carefully up from the belay on holds and scoops (as for 'Jubilate Direct Start'; small wires provide protection four metres up). Continue to the upper ramp. Right along this to DBB.

4. 40m (19 or 21) Step right and up the short corner, then traverse left again above the belay to your choice of two variants - right (B1, 21) or left (B2, 19). B1 and B2 merge after about 15m. Either way slab up, trending slightly right following the bolts, until you reach a DBB. From here go horizontally right to the last pitch of Outer Limit, or continue up and right another 8m to a second DBB, directly below the start of Dry Route. Finish up Rooty Hill, Dry Route or Outer Limit. B1 variant has a direct start: step left and crank up from the belay past a bolt (pre-clip from the belay), and continue up B1.

The next three climbs are on a group of boulders below 'The Central Slabs'.

Start approximately below 'Further Out' at a leftwards slanting crackline.

1. 20m - Traverse left along the crack to a block, then up the wall and overlap to a tree belay.

2. 20m - Up the crack on the left for six metres, then back right on another and up to the top.

A worthless contrived mantle first done with a backrope. Start right of 'Fat Like Me'. Up the slab to a horizontal break, then directly up the wall above with a short slab to finish.

A technical slab problem which was soloed after top-rope inspection. A serious lead. The narrow, cleaned slab about 20 metres left of 'Mangler'.

The crack/trench bounding the left end of the Central Slabs. The crack is hard to get to, and not particularly worthwhile anyway. The aid used on the second pitch was freed by Roark Muhlen as part of 'Powder Finger Finish'. Climb the first pitch of 'Outer Limit' or the first and second pitches of 'Bananas in Pyjamas'.

1. 8m - From the 'Outer Limit' belay, climb up and slightly left (small wires) as for 'Jubilate Direct Start', and continue up and left to the base of the crack.

2. 15m - Climb the thin cracks (crux) left of the main crack past a tree, to belay where the cracks converge.

3. 32m - Climb the crack to a stance.

4. 12m - Scramble up to finish. DBB on left.

Another superb, long and hard slab route. The original first pitch climbed a flake and overlap just left of 'Outer Limit' (now claimed by Bananas in Pyjamas P2), but the route as described is much better. Start above the second bolt of 'Bananas in Pyjamas' (scramble up the bushy gully). This is 10m right and up from 'Vent Crack'.

1. 40m (23) - Up to a ledge, then up the crazed crack/groove to a peg. Continue up through the overlap and the groove above to a second overlap. Traverse rightwards beneath this to a mossy groove, and follow this up (past a bolt on 'Bananas in Pyjamas') to a ledge. Extensive exfoliation in the 2020 fires has made the first 15m (which was already serious) harder, less good, and extremely dangerous.

2. 25m (22) - Frees the old aid section of 'Linear Crack'. Strenuously up the twin flared finger cracks to a tree, then easily to the top of a huge block.

3. 35m (23) - Move leftwards around the arete and continue traversing left beneath the bulge to a peg in the corner. Climb up and over the bulge to a bolt, then straight up the hard slab above.

One of the best routes at Booroomba, with sustained and scary climbing in a great position. Start as for 'Powder Finger Finish'.

1. 40m (23) For the original route: move up and left to climb the right-hand side of the huge flake (shared with 'Only the Good Die Young'). At the horizontal break undercling out right for four metres. (A direct start was bolted at a later date, but then extensively damaged by the 2020 fire: blast straight up past two bolts to join the original route at the right-hand end of the horizontal break.) Climb the sustained intermittent crack line past two bolts until it blanks out (a #4 Rock protects the crux here). Move right to a line of holds and follow these to the large ledge (DBB).

2. 15m (23) - This pitch tackles the orange wall directly above. Climb a leftward sloping crack into the sentry box in the middle of the face. Up past two bolts, then crank left to a curving flake. Go up this, then out left to a hanging belay in the corner.

3. 35m (22) - Climb up and out right to some wires. Move back, left of the white water streak, to an insecure move to reach a bolt. Hard moves follow for about five metres before the slab gradually eases back. DBB.

Brilliant climbing up the steep slabs and impressive headwall left of 'The Central Slabs'. Start as for 'Powder Finger Finish'.

1. 25m (19) Move up and left to climb the right-hand side of the huge flake (as for 'Smash Palace' original start). At the horizontal break pull left around the arete and onto the face. Delicately up to belay on top of the flake.

2. 20m (22) Scary face climbing up to a bolt, then straight up to a horizontal seam. Move right to avoid the scrub near the top. Huge belay ledge.

3. 18m (21) - The headwall. Up the short corner on the left to an undercling, then swing right and up to a small stance. Up the wall to a diagonal leftward flake, and left at the top of this to a hanging belay at a small bush and horizontal break (DBB). A spacey belay in a superb position.

4. 37m (22) Climb directly above the belay to another horizontal break, then follow this rightwards until it vanishes. Straight up the slab, past a bolt, then slightly left up a dyke. Blast easily to the top (DBB).

No bolts, no chips, no fun! A devious and run-out climb taking a line between 'Only the Good Die Young' and 'Vent Crack'. Start just right of 'Vent Crack', five metres up on a small ledge.

1. 40m (21) - Move right and climb a short corner. Continue up the wall to join 'Only the Good Die Young' for a few moves. Move left and up to a ledge. Left along this, then up the steep slab trending right to belay below an orange corner.

2. 45m (18) - Climb the corner and step left onto a ledge. Climb the ramp right to a ledge and up the obvious line of holds on the slab, past a bolt, to join 'After the Reiving' at the top.

Only the first two pitches are worth the effort. It is better to finish up Baryon. Start (marked) below the prominent crack 20 metres left of 'Outer Limit', at the right-hand end of an orange wall (Snickers Wall).

1. 25m - Climb the crack (chimney) and V-shaped cleft then step left to a small ledge. Continue up the right-facing crack, then traverse left across the top of Snickers Wall to a chain belay on a comfy ledge.

2. 15m - Climb a corner above the belay. Trend right across the slab above to a bushy gully.

3. 30m - Follow the gully easily until blocked by a prominent bulge.

4. 30m - Climb the bulge using a crack and slab on the left, then the ramp.

5. 34m - Climb a prominent nose on the wall left of a scoop, to finish on easy slabs. Basically just a glorified walkoff.

An improvement on the middle sections of 'Vent Crack'

1. 25m - As for Vent Crack P1: climb the crack (chimney) and V-shaped cleft then step left to a small ledge. Continue up the right-facing crack, then traverse left across the top of Snickers Wall to a chain belay on a comfy ledge.

2. 25m - Climb a corner above the belay. Straight up the slab then traverse left and up to an obvious corner, up this to a ledge.

3. 20m - Climb the slab using the huge flake and continue over poised blocks and through bushes (to rejoin 'Vent Crack'). Up a short crack on the left of the bulge to a stance.

4. 30m - Climb the water-smoothed slab to the left of the bulge, crossing right to an obvious weakness and up to a large ledge.

5. 10m - climb the short wall and scramble to the top.

The despoliation hadn't even started! Ascends the prominent buttress above and right from 'Vent Crack'. A nice finish to 'Vent Crack' or 'Baryon'. Start at the end of the third pitch of 'Vent Crack'. Climb the bulge up the wide, slanting crack on the right, then traverse down and right to a ledge. Pleasantly up a groove to the top.

Probably climbed before as obvious line, alternate, better and harder variant on broken and very loose flake on pitch 2 of Baryon. From belay for P2, delicately straight up via thin crack to join Baryon at poised blocks. Finish as for original route.

The vertical to overhanging section of orange rock embedded left of the Central Slabs. Single-pitch hard sport climbing is the go. There is a marked start for the old-school 'Vent Crack' at the right hand end.

A good pump. Start about 8m left of Vent Crack. Up past the first bolt then traverse right past two bolts to a flake and bolt. Continue up the overhanging wall past three more bolts (originally with the usual rest on the top bolt). Lower-off.

Start as for Boy's Brigade to the good holds on the traverse then take the water streak straight up, following the bolts, for a muscle fatiguing experience. A desperate direct start past one bolt awaits an ascent.

A steep, direct and well protected wall. More technical and sustained than 'Snickers'. Start as for Boy's Brigade but go (mostly) straight up. Lunge up to and past the first bolt to the second. Gain a big hold out right, then back into the line. Continue up the wall past four more bolts. An awkward move brings the seventh bolt to hand, then up onto the slab. Rap as for GGO. Loss of holds in the 2020 fires has made the climbing sequence different than the original route, and probably increased the grade from its original 25.

Start three metres left of 'Designer Drugs'. Up past eight bolts. Originally the route joined 'Snickers' at the end of its traverse; the excellent direct finish was added by Chris Warner in 2013.

Start 3 metres left of GGO, at the right-hand side of the black streak. Climb past four bolts and traverse right past a fifth and optional nut, where there is a good rest. Move right a few millimetres to another bolt then up the overhanging wall past two more bolts. From the top bolt go left then up a short slab to chain. On the first ascent, a rest was used on the top bolt.

Start five metres left of 'Snickers' just left of the black waterstreak. The crux moves (with a chipped hold) are between the first and second bolts. Continue up on good holds to chain belay.

Just left of Frog Tactics. Up past six bolts to lower-off. Early crux and watch your back on the block if you fall.

Nice slab routes in the mid grades, including some exciting old-school adventures and modern sport masterpieces.

Follow the mineral deposits (bolts) of which there are four on the first pitch. Start on the 5-m triangular block at the left hand end of 'Snickers Wall'.

1. 30 metres - Crux. Clip a bolt, step onto the wall and follow the rightward rising traverse past two more bolts. Climb past the double-ring anchor to a chain anchor at the top of Frog Tactics.

2. 30 metres - Move left two metres, up the slab then left again at the short wall til standing on a small spike. Up the crack and wall above finishing by a short crack to the belay ledge with a tree (as for 'Baryon').

3. 30 metres - From the left end of the ledge follow a dyke for a few metres, then back right to below an incipient curved crack. Up and onwards between two lichen streaks, passing a "thank God" RP placement.

A good, varied climb with a thin crux. Start as for 'Silver City Highway'.

1. 45 metres - Traverse right slightly then straight up past a bolt (crux) to a ledge. Walk left then up the wall past two more bolts to a corner and easy slab. Finish up the wide corner crack and belay below 'Baryon'.

2. 45m (13) - Climb left along the 10cm dyke (RPs / small wires) until you hit the wide 'Lepton' dyke then up easily to top.

Start as for 'Silver City Highway' on the 5m high block. Lean over, clip the first bolt, then climb up and left to the second. Straight up past four more bolts to rap anchor in corner. 30m rap back to top of block.

Originally traversed left at the third bolt and joined 'Mind and Body', but the direct finish is better.

Another good slab route. Getting to the first bolt is quite scary. Start just left of the 5-metre 'Silver City Highway' block.

1. 30 metres (22) - Move up trending right to a ledge and bolt. Shake your way up creaky flakes and some hard moves past three more bolts to the Zog traverse.

2. 10 metres - Can be combined with first pitch. Up the crack and slab above to the left edge of a large alcove (double bolt belay as for Psychosomatic).

3. 45 metres (18) - Straight up from the belay. Put in some sideways wires then teeter up the slab to a bolt about 10m up. Continue easily to the top.