A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Luen Warneke Brendan Heywood Michael Birtill Tyson Callum Mather Jake Forker LJ Nielsen Kate Ferguson Tim Janetzki Josh Shipp
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
North Side
53 in Field
- 1.1. Beach Side 7 in Boulder
- 1.2. Warm-up Boulder 7 in Boulder
- 1.3. Wall of Certain Death 12 in Boulder
- 1.4. Pockets Boulder 1 in Boulder
- 1.5. Jump Boulder 10 in Boulder
- 1.6. Bat Cave 5 in Boulder
- 1.7. Voodoo Boulder 5 in Boulder
- 1.8. Big Ass Boulder 2 in Boulder
- 1.9. Gilded Gadfly 4 in Boulder
- 2. Index by grade
1. North Side 53 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
Tutti Bouldering
Lat / Long: -19.977820, 148.261031
descrizione
The north side of Horseshoe Bay has some impressive overhung rock formations and a great collection of problems, starting at the end of the beach and continues on to Cape Edgecumbe. Walk along the high tide mark. The rock can sometimes be a little sharp in this area.
limitazioni per l'accesso
No access issues really, except don't walk through any of the resorts to shortcut areas, this will only annoy the owners and could cause problems in the future.
avvicinamento
From the Horseshoe Bay beach head north (or left when facing the ocean). The first boulders are right on the beach.
etica
Like most other areas, clean off your chalk marks, don't chip holds, if you need to chip it means you're just not strong enough so go train, and you're ruining it for others. Always go to the toilets in the carparks, don't do it anywhere else, nowhere here is it acceptable for a bush poo!
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1.1. Beach Side 7 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -19.978898, 148.260819
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
★ Fat Girls & Beef
Start two hands on obvious rail then straight up on bad feet and small edges. | V6 | 3m | |||||
2 |
★★ King of the North / 1
Sit start on obvious undercling (stack pads if necessary), big move to lip then mantle. FA: Steve Baskerville | V7 | 3m | |||||
3 |
King of the North (stand start) / 2
Stand start on big jug at lip of overhang then straight up. FA: Steve Baskerville | V2 | 3m | |||||
4 |
★ Beefy Americano
Sit start in big groove and then make your way out of the overhang on cool groove features and then some very small holds at the lip. Looks possible but who knows. FA: Spenser Tang-Smith, Set 2023 | V9 | 3m | |||||
5 |
★★ Sultans of Ming
Sit start in slopey hue then straight up. FA: Dan Gordon, Lug 2015 | V7 | 4m | |||||
6 |
★★★ A Salty Groove / 3
Sit start way at the back of the groove in pockets then head up and out to finish up the right hand arête. FA: Dan the Man | V5 | 3m | |||||
7 |
★ It's a Fallacy
Sit start on low boulder, stand and work over right edge to finish with slab like problem FA: Michael Birtill, 12 Lug 2016 | V0 | 3m | |||||
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1.2. Warm-up Boulder 7 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -19.978481, 148.261062
descrizione
A well featured, little boulder with plenty of variations and fun problems on and surrounding it.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
4
The arête ("3") can also be done as a nice stand start and mantle. | V0 | 2m | |||||
2 |
★★ Danabus
Left of "1". Sit start, starting on a two hand pinch moving diagonally up R through problems "1" and "2". Finishing up the juggy arete with a mantle. | V5 | 3m | |||||
3 |
★★ 1
A classic sit start. | V2 | 3m | |||||
4 |
2
A pumpy traverse. Sit start and traversing right on a series of slopey features finishing on the obvious juggy arête on the opposite side of the boulder, the start of the problem. FA: Nick Larsen | V6 | ||||||
5 |
3
Starting on the same arête as "2" finishes on. This sit start problem starts low with a small chockstone for feet; pull down on with two desperate sloper sidepulls and throw for the big jug. FA: Steve Baskerville | V6/7 | ||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 |
Lotion on it's skin
Start with a double undercling and smear feet. Go straight up. | V2 | 2m | |||||
7 |
Bum hug
Starting on the obvious hold. The reward for getting the 'top' is a rock feature that seems to be perfectly carved out for sitting, like a bum hug! | V0 | 2m |
1.3. Wall of Certain Death 12 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -19.978340, 148.261058
descrizione
This overhanging boulder is a high ball and you won't want to fall from the top... Descend the boulder via the slab on the west side.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
6ft Under
Start sitting below the big flake on two tiny crimps. Pull on and throw for jug. FA: Steve Baskerville | V7 | ||||||
2 |
★★ Afterlife
Start at the big jugs at the base of the little corner. Blast out to the arête and pocket and up the high wall. FA: Spenser Tang Smith | V5 | ||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
3 |
★★ Appointment With Death
Starting on the upper level pull out onto the steep wall and up big jugs. A dangerous problem. | V1 | 4m | |||||
4 |
★★★ Wall of Certain Death
As classic as they come. Very high and scary. Up the arête to the steep wall and out the overhang on amazing jugs to a lip crux. Bring lots of pads and be aware that if you fall off this problem you could be seriously hurt. FA: Steve Baskerville | V2 | 6m | |||||
5 |
★ Horny Horns
Standing start using horn and up via next horn to crumbly sslopers. Bad landing. | V2 | 5m | |||||
6 |
★ Thug Life
Standing start | V1 | 4m | |||||
7 |
★★ Thug Life (sit start) / 3
Sit start and up the wall. Be careful of the rock up high. | V3 | 5m | |||||
8 |
★★ Underbelly
Sit start and then traverse R staying low to finish on the RH end of the big flake. FA: Steve Baskerville | V3 | 3m | |||||
9 |
★★ Moisture Infused
Standing start. Crimps/edge up to high under cling / pinch then continue to top out. FA: Luen Warneke, 8 Set 2018 | V3 | 4m | |||||
10 |
★★ Moisture Infused (sit start)
The sit start of "Moisture Infused". On edges and up to a pitch which turns into an underclig. FA: Luen Warneke, 8 Set 2018 | V4 | 5m | |||||
11 |
★ An Inconvenient Struth
Standing start. Undercling up to not so good rock. | V2 | 4m | |||||
12 |
★ An Inconvenient Struth (sit start)
Sit start and up "An Inconvenient Struth" | V2 | 5m |
1.4. Pockets Boulder 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Penumbra
FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 1 Gen 2021 | V4 |
1.5. Jump Boulder 10 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -19.978237, 148.261059
descrizione
Descend the boulder on the north west corner where "Chip That Won't Dip" finishes. There's a bunch of assorted problems between V0 – V4. Lots of short sit starts, traverses and eliminates. Fun!
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
★ Classic Wall
Up the obvious cool features. A nice under cling mid way up. | V2 | 4m | |||||
2 |
★ Vague Seam
FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 8 Giu 2018 | V2 | 3m | |||||
3 |
★ Come Out & Play
A classic arête. A high ball with bad landing. Start with fridge move, work way out right on corner and up slightly left. | V2 | 4m | |||||
4 |
★★★ Pandora's Boxjump
Grab edge and jump. Up via bad slopers. FA: Spenser Tang-Smith, Set 2023 | V7 | ||||||
5 |
★ 2
A fun high problem. | V0 | 4m | |||||
6 |
★★ 3
Sit start and desperate mantle. | V5 | ||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
7 |
What can I say except you're welcome
Layback from the crack. | V1 | 3m | |||||
8 |
Left Cheek
Stand start up the crack - layback. Another variant. | V0 | 3m | |||||
9 |
★ Right Cheek / 4
Sit start. Campus up via good holds (no feet at the start). Plenty of other variants (V0 – V4). Lots of short sit starts, traverses and eliminates. | V3 | 2m | |||||
10 |
★ Chip That Won't Dip
Traverse from left to right. Ending at the boulders easiest descent route. | V0 | 4m |
1.6. Bat Cave 5 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -19.977451, 148.260941
descrizione
The Bat Cave is a cave located in the northern half of Horseshoe Bay and is also known as Cave 60 for obvious reasons. It's a fantastic cave but can get a bit slimy in hot and humid weather and sometimes the holds need to be cleaned from the sea salt spray. Bird droppings can be seen in this cave.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Kingdra
Start on double underclings, use right crimp and left pinch to reach better holds. Located 10m left of the roof. FA: Callum Mather | V7 | ||||
2 |
★★ Kendra's Roof Short
Classic roof climbing following the obvious line. Starting at slopers at back middle then traverse left to crux move behind head and back across right, finishing on the mushroom. A big 'U' shaped climb. FA: Spenser Tang Smith | V7 | ||||
3 |
★★ Moonbo Roof
Original problem. Start at left side back slopers and move to a sloper behind head. FA: Steve Baskerville | V5 | ||||
4 |
Moonbo Roof variant
Start a little left of "Moonbo Roof" on edges. FA: Steve Baskerville | V5 | ||||
5 |
★★★ Kendra's Roof
The extension to "Kendra's Roof", continuing past the mushroom via a roof crux and then up a desperate slab above the terrifying drop away landing. Tracciata: Spenser Tang Smith FFA: Andy Lampard, Lug 2016 | V9/10 |
1.7. Voodoo Boulder 5 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -19.977874, 148.261069
descrizione
Located about 50m along from the end of the beach.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 | ★ Nurofen | V2 | 4m | |||||
2 | ★★ Voodoo | V3 | 4m | |||||
3 |
★★ Lime
Start in the crack in a layback, work your way up L following the crackline. The crux is in the middle. You can sit start this one. | V1 | 4m | |||||
4 |
Anal Beads
Starting a few metres right of "Lime", this highball is an easy but daunting climb near the top. | V0 | 8m | |||||
5 | Fruit Picker | V1 |
1.8. Big Ass Boulder 2 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -19.978406, 148.260794
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 | Big Ass | |||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
2 |
★ Butter Bin Chicken
Start at white spray paint arrows. Up right to top of large rock via good juggy holds. | V0+ | 4m |
1.9. Gilded Gadfly 4 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Easy as 1 | V0 | 2m | |||
2 | Easy as 2 | V0 | 2m | |||
3 | Easy as 3 | V0 | 2m | |||
4 | ★ Gilded Gadfly | V3 | 2m |