Aiuto

North Side Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Luen Warneke Michael Birtill Callum Mather Jake Forker LJ Nielsen Kate Ferguson Tim Janetzki Josh Shipp

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. North Side 53 routes in Field

Summary:
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Stagionalità

Tutti Bouldering

Lat / Long: -19.977820, 148.261031

descrizione

The north side of Horseshoe Bay has some impressive overhung rock formations and a great collection of problems, starting at the end of the beach and continues on to Cape Edgecumbe. Walk along the high tide mark. The rock can sometimes be a little sharp in this area.

limitazioni per l'accesso

No access issues really, except don't walk through any of the resorts to shortcut areas, this will only annoy the owners and could cause problems in the future.

ereditato da Bowen

avvicinamento

From the Horseshoe Bay beach head north (or left when facing the ocean). The first boulders are right on the beach.

etica

Like most other areas, clean off your chalk marks, don't chip holds, if you need to chip it means you're just not strong enough so go train, and you're ruining it for others. Always go to the toilets in the carparks, don't do it anywhere else, nowhere here is it acceptable for a bush poo!

ereditato da Bowen

1.1. Beach Side 7 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: -19.978898, 148.260819

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Fat Girls & Beef

Start two hands on obvious rail then straight up on bad feet and small edges.

V6 Boulder 3m
2 King of the North / 1

Sit start on obvious undercling (stack pads if necessary), big move to lip then mantle.

FA: Steve Baskerville

V7 Boulder 3m
3 King of the North (stand start) / 2

Stand start on big jug at lip of overhang then straight up.

FA: Steve Baskerville

V2 Boulder 3m
4 Beefy Americano

Sit start in big groove and then make your way out of the overhang on cool groove features and then some very small holds at the lip. Looks possible but who knows.

FA: Spenser Tang-Smith, Set 2023

V9 Boulder 3m
5 Sultans of Ming

Sit start in slopey hue then straight up.

FA: Dan Gordon, Lug 2015

V7 Boulder 4m
6 A Salty Groove / 3

Sit start way at the back of the groove in pockets then head up and out to finish up the right hand arête.

FA: Dan the Man

V5 Boulder 3m
7 It's a Fallacy

Sit start on low boulder, stand and work over right edge to finish with slab like problem

FA: Michael Birtill, 12 Lug 2016

V0 Boulder 3m

1.2. Warm-up Boulder 7 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: -19.978481, 148.261062

descrizione

A well featured, little boulder with plenty of variations and fun problems on and surrounding it.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 4

The arête ("3") can also be done as a nice stand start and mantle.

V0 Boulder 2m
2 Danabus

Left of "1". Sit start, starting on a two hand pinch moving diagonally up R through problems "1" and "2". Finishing up the juggy arete with a mantle.

V5 Boulder 3m
3 1

A classic sit start.

V2 Boulder 3m
4 2

A pumpy traverse. Sit start and traversing right on a series of slopey features finishing on the obvious juggy arête on the opposite side of the boulder, the start of the problem.

FA: Nick Larsen

V6 Boulder
5 3

Starting on the same arête as "2" finishes on. This sit start problem starts low with a small chockstone for feet; pull down on with two desperate sloper sidepulls and throw for the big jug.

FA: Steve Baskerville

V6/7 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Lotion on it's skin

Start with a double undercling and smear feet. Go straight up.

V2 Boulder 2m
7 Bum hug

Starting on the obvious hold. The reward for getting the 'top' is a rock feature that seems to be perfectly carved out for sitting, like a bum hug!

V0 Boulder 2m

1.3. Wall of Certain Death 12 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: -19.978340, 148.261058

descrizione

This overhanging boulder is a high ball and you won't want to fall from the top... Descend the boulder via the slab on the west side.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 6ft Under

Start sitting below the big flake on two tiny crimps. Pull on and throw for jug.

FA: Steve Baskerville

V7 Boulder
2 Afterlife

Start at the big jugs at the base of the little corner. Blast out to the arête and pocket and up the high wall.

FA: Spenser Tang Smith

V5 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 Appointment With Death

Starting on the upper level pull out onto the steep wall and up big jugs. A dangerous problem.

V1 Boulder 4m
4 Wall of Certain Death

As classic as they come. Very high and scary. Up the arête to the steep wall and out the overhang on amazing jugs to a lip crux. Bring lots of pads and be aware that if you fall off this problem you could be seriously hurt.

FA: Steve Baskerville

V2 Boulder 6m
5 Horny Horns

Standing start using horn and up via next horn to crumbly sslopers. Bad landing.

V2 Boulder 5m
6 Thug Life

Standing start

V1 Boulder 4m
7 Thug Life (sit start) / 3

Sit start and up the wall. Be careful of the rock up high.

V3 Boulder 5m
8 Underbelly

Sit start and then traverse R staying low to finish on the RH end of the big flake.

FA: Steve Baskerville

V3 Boulder 3m
9 Moisture Infused

Standing start. Crimps/edge up to high under cling / pinch then continue to top out.

FA: Luen Warneke, 8 Set 2018

V3 Boulder 4m
10 Moisture Infused (sit start)

The sit start of "Moisture Infused". On edges and up to a pitch which turns into an underclig.

FA: Luen Warneke, 8 Set 2018

V4 Boulder 5m
11 An Inconvenient Struth

Standing start. Undercling up to not so good rock.

V2 Boulder 4m
12 An Inconvenient Struth (sit start)

Sit start and up "An Inconvenient Struth"

V2 Boulder 5m

1.4. Pockets Boulder 1 route in Boulder

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Penumbra

FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 1 Gen 2021

V4 Boulder

1.5. Jump Boulder 10 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: -19.978237, 148.261059

descrizione

Descend the boulder on the north west corner where "Chip That Won't Dip" finishes. There's a bunch of assorted problems between V0 – V4. Lots of short sit starts, traverses and eliminates. Fun!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Classic Wall

Up the obvious cool features. A nice under cling mid way up.

V2 Boulder 4m
2 Vague Seam

FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 8 Giu 2018

V2 Boulder 3m
3 Come Out & Play

A classic arête. A high ball with bad landing. Start with fridge move, work way out right on corner and up slightly left.

V2 Boulder 4m
4 Pandora's Boxjump

Grab edge and jump. Up via bad slopers.

FA: Spenser Tang-Smith, Set 2023

V7 Boulder
5 2

A fun high problem.

V0 Boulder 4m
6 3

Sit start and desperate mantle.

V5 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 What can I say except you're welcome

Layback from the crack.

V1 Boulder 3m
8 Left Cheek

Stand start up the crack - layback. Another variant.

V0 Boulder 3m
9 Right Cheek / 4

Sit start. Campus up via good holds (no feet at the start).

Plenty of other variants (V0 – V4). Lots of short sit starts, traverses and eliminates.

V3 Boulder 2m
10 Chip That Won't Dip

Traverse from left to right. Ending at the boulders easiest descent route.

V0 Boulder 4m

1.6. Bat Cave 5 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: -19.977451, 148.260941

descrizione

The Bat Cave is a cave located in the northern half of Horseshoe Bay and is also known as Cave 60 for obvious reasons. It's a fantastic cave but can get a bit slimy in hot and humid weather and sometimes the holds need to be cleaned from the sea salt spray. Bird droppings can be seen in this cave.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Kingdra

Start on double underclings, use right crimp and left pinch to reach better holds.

Located 10m left of the roof.

V7 Boulder
2 Kendra's Roof Short

Classic roof climbing following the obvious line. Starting at slopers at back middle then traverse left to crux move behind head and back across right, finishing on the mushroom. A big 'U' shaped climb.

FA: Spenser Tang Smith

V7 Boulder
3 Moonbo Roof

Original problem. Start at left side back slopers and move to a sloper behind head.

FA: Steve Baskerville

V5 Boulder
4 Moonbo Roof variant

Start a little left of "Moonbo Roof" on edges.

FA: Steve Baskerville

V5 Boulder
5 Kendra's Roof

The extension to "Kendra's Roof", continuing past the mushroom via a roof crux and then up a desperate slab above the terrifying drop away landing.

Tracciata: Spenser Tang Smith

FFA: Andy Lampard, Lug 2016

V9/10 Boulder

1.7. Voodoo Boulder 5 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: -19.977874, 148.261069

descrizione

Located about 50m along from the end of the beach.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Nurofen V2 Boulder 4m
2 Voodoo V3 Boulder 4m
3 Lime

Start in the crack in a layback, work your way up L following the crackline. The crux is in the middle. You can sit start this one.

V1 Boulder 4m
4 Anal Beads

Starting a few metres right of "Lime", this highball is an easy but daunting climb near the top.

V0 Boulder 8m
5 Fruit Picker V1 Boulder

1.8. Big Ass Boulder 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: -19.978406, 148.260794

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Big Ass Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Butter Bin Chicken

Start at white spray paint arrows. Up right to top of large rock via good juggy holds.

V0+ Boulder 4m

1.9. Gilded Gadfly 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Easy as 1 V0 Boulder 2m
2 Easy as 2 V0 Boulder 2m
3 Easy as 3 V0 Boulder 2m
4 Gilded Gadfly V3 Boulder 2m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
V0 It's a Fallacy Boulder 3m 1.1. Beach Side
4 Boulder 2m 1.2. Warm-up Boulder
Bum hug Boulder 2m 1.2. Warm-up Boulder
2 Boulder 4m 1.5. Jump Boulder
Chip That Won't Dip Boulder 4m 1.5. Jump Boulder
Left Cheek Boulder 3m 1.5. Jump Boulder
Anal Beads Boulder 8m 1.7. Voodoo Boulder
Easy as 1 Boulder 2m 1.9. Gilded Gadfly
Easy as 2 Boulder 2m 1.9. Gilded Gadfly
Easy as 3 Boulder 2m 1.9. Gilded Gadfly
V0+ Butter Bin Chicken Boulder 4m 1.8. Big Ass Boulder
V1 Appointment With Death Boulder 4m 1.3. Wall of Certain Death
Thug Life Boulder 4m 1.3. Wall of Certain Death
What can I say except you're welcome Boulder 3m 1.5. Jump Boulder
Fruit Picker Boulder 1.7. Voodoo Boulder
Lime Boulder 4m 1.7. Voodoo Boulder
V2 King of the North (stand start) Boulder 3m 1.1. Beach Side
1 Boulder 3m 1.2. Warm-up Boulder
Lotion on it's skin Boulder 2m 1.2. Warm-up Boulder
An Inconvenient Struth Boulder 4m 1.3. Wall of Certain Death
An Inconvenient Struth (sit start) Boulder 5m 1.3. Wall of Certain Death
Horny Horns Boulder 5m 1.3. Wall of Certain Death
Wall of Certain Death Boulder 6m 1.3. Wall of Certain Death
Classic Wall Boulder 4m 1.5. Jump Boulder
Come Out & Play Boulder 4m 1.5. Jump Boulder
Vague Seam Boulder 3m 1.5. Jump Boulder
Nurofen Boulder 4m 1.7. Voodoo Boulder
V3 Moisture Infused Boulder 4m 1.3. Wall of Certain Death
Thug Life (sit start) Boulder 5m 1.3. Wall of Certain Death
Underbelly Boulder 3m 1.3. Wall of Certain Death
Right Cheek Boulder 2m 1.5. Jump Boulder
Voodoo Boulder 4m 1.7. Voodoo Boulder
Gilded Gadfly Boulder 2m 1.9. Gilded Gadfly
V4 Moisture Infused (sit start) Boulder 5m 1.3. Wall of Certain Death
Penumbra Boulder 1.4. Pockets Boulder
V5 A Salty Groove Boulder 3m 1.1. Beach Side
Danabus Boulder 3m 1.2. Warm-up Boulder
Afterlife Boulder 1.3. Wall of Certain Death
3 Boulder 1.5. Jump Boulder
Moonbo Roof Boulder 1.6. Bat Cave
Moonbo Roof variant Boulder 1.6. Bat Cave
V6 Fat Girls & Beef Boulder 3m 1.1. Beach Side
2 Boulder 1.2. Warm-up Boulder
V6/7 3 Boulder 1.2. Warm-up Boulder
V7 King of the North Boulder 3m 1.1. Beach Side
Sultans of Ming Boulder 4m 1.1. Beach Side
6ft Under Boulder 1.3. Wall of Certain Death
Pandora's Boxjump Boulder 1.5. Jump Boulder
Kendra's Roof Short Boulder 1.6. Bat Cave
Kingdra Boulder 1.6. Bat Cave
V9 Beefy Americano Boulder 3m 1.1. Beach Side
V9/10 Kendra's Roof Boulder 1.6. Bat Cave
? Big Ass Boulder 1.8. Big Ass Boulder
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