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A good line, good rock, good gear in a great environment. Take 10 bolt plates for the first pitch.
42m (16) Start at small curving ledge, two carrots, about 8m left of the last rap bolts. Sustained enjoyable face climbing on thin rails. Follow the white streak past 8 BR crossing large flakes at 3/4 height. 5m below belay scoop traverse right along break to weakness on right.
55m (15) Start at lovely belay scoop (DBB with double captive rap rings). Up prominent white streak, directly above belay. Very thin, balancy, and sustained. Would be easier if cool or in overcast conditions. DBB with link chain and single captive rap ring. (All ring bolts - no hangers required)
27m (7) Straight up from belay crossing small overlap. 2 glue in ring bolts. Ends at DBB (each with captive rap ring) on easy to get to large boulder at top of cliff, roughly level with the waterfall where it briefly goes vertical.
FA:Josef Goding(P1), Nicholas Allan & Michael Milne (P2), 2008
Starts about two-thirds the way up the first pitch of 'High Heels'. This pitch starts higher in the gully than the guide book suggests and the first pitch traverses almost horizontally to the start of the cracks.
45m, 16. Crux. 4 BRs. About 5m below the belay of 'High Heels', traverse L to the start of an incipient zig-zag crack. Up this to a grassy ledge at the start of the corner.