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Tutti 13 vie visualizzati.

Grado Via Stile equipaggiamento Popolarità
18 Wild Blue Yonder

Access best by using a 100m static to abseil the approx 85m (?) from the top of Home James, down that route, continuing down past 'Back in an Hour' and through the hole/'cave' formed by chock-stones which brings you out onto a large grassy ramp/ledge. Stay on the abseil rope for the short scramble down rightward (facing in) to a bolt anchor above Wild Blue Yonder. Another short (30m?) abseil from bolts gets you to the start of that climb (at the ledge above Goat's Head Soup). The original route (17, scarier with just a single carrot bolt) started about 10m left of Goat Island - one or two moves from the left end of the ledge accessed the big diagonal ramp/line. This better version (18, more direct and well protected) starts about 6 or 7 m right of the original.

  1. 30m Up via a bolt runner (18) to gain the 'line'. Follow the dyke diagonally left to the original carrot bolt then up the slab via three FHs to a ledge and bolt anchor. From here, it is easy to scramble up around left and eventually hit the south side climbers' access track. Alternatively:

  2. "25m Head up to the 'Goat Island' belay.

  3. 40m L to arête, up, staying to the right of the vegetated gully, belay beneath chockstone. Scramble up unpleasant vegetated gullies to arrive below the hand-over-hand chain" (Mt Buffalo 2006 guidebook, Lindorff and Murray)

FA: Kevin Lindorff (as described) & Geoff Gledhill December 2020

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Ken Roseberry January '77 (original route)

Sconosciuto 110m, 3, 5
21 Goat Island

Bolts replaced 2021.

Sconosciuto 45m, 2
17 Goat Island Variant
Sconosciuto 40m
19 Goat's Head Soup
Sconosciuto 50m
19 Quickstep
Sconosciuto 53m
22 High Time
Sconosciuto 92m
20 Diamond Dogs

A new bolt with rap ring (added in 2023) now augments the single old carrot and dubious peg that formed the belay at the end of p2.

Sconosciuto 65m
21 Diamond Dogs Direct Start

A fixed hanger added (2023) between the first two of the three original carrots makes this very enjoyable.

Sportiva 20m, 4
26 Manhattan Project

Looks good.

  1. 35m. Start as for Diamond Dogs Direct Start. Up DDDS to its fourth bolt then straight up, through the traverse line of DD, and the headwall above (fixed hangers) to a double ring belay.

  2. 45m. Step L and up into a thin flake (bolts). From the top of the flake, hard moves right up a series of edges. Up leftwards (bolts) to drop down left around the base of blunt arete and up into the gully to belay.

FA: Ian Anger & Steve Monks, 1993

Sconosciuto 80m, 2
27 Oppenheimer's Monster

A rough/crystalline, flaring, diagonal crack... hmmm! Starts at the double rap ring at the end of p1 of Manhattan Project.

  1. Up face (FH) to the right-leaning flared crack. Up this and thin crack (many cams and wires) to where it peters out. Up bulge (FH) to a small ledge. Up short wall (BR) to gain another ledge. Follow this for approximately 20m until an exit is possible.

FA: Malcolm Matheson & Ian Anger, 1994

Sconosciuto 45m
20 Isotope
Sconosciuto 82m
19 Stumble On A Chimp's Dick
Sconosciuto 110m
16 Bitter Sweet
Sconosciuto 88m

Tutti 13 vie visualizzati.

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