Tutti 13 nodi visualizzati.
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Beowulf Area
As for Burston's Crevasse from the carpark, but before hiking down the crevasse, pass underneath a rock archway to the left (facing out) and follow the track down into the gorge. |
27
Exhibit A
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
27
Spawn of Satan
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
27
★★★ Satanic Traverses
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
18
★★ Beowulf
This is a must-do. Beautiful sickled shape crack. |
12
Ethical Corner
companion corner to Beowulf, but not as good, nor as well protected. Probably harder than a 12! |
15
★ What Ethics?
Short crack in the middle of the face to the horizontal break, a few moves leads to a carrot on the upper slab. |
15
Who's Ethics
Undercling R of WE, Joins WE at mid-waypoint. |
21
Time Passage
Climbs the slab that is down and out a little from Beowulf. Up crack until it ends, clip old carrot, then some thin slabbing before finishing up easy crack in slab. Rap in. |
11
Gorgeous George
... but has a filthy mind. R of 'Time Passage'. Start up the fist crack to easy vegetated V groove, turn small overlap on the L side then following crack until possible to make a few easy slab moves L to join the top crack of 'Time Passage' to top. Rap into route. |
22
★ Iron Maiden
Starts down right from Time Passage and takes the arete that is just right of that climb. Easiest approach is to scramble down to the top of the arete and abseil from the double bolt anchor. Climb up (BR), right to arete (BR), then up this (BR). |
26
★★★ Running the Gauntlet
One of the best single pitches at Mt Buffalo. A 'must do'. Right of 'Dressed to Kill' and 'Winnie the Pooh'. Abseil 50m from the top of 'Iron Maiden'. Starts at a double bolt belay at the base of a closed corner. Stem up the corner, step L into another corner, continue stemming up this to a few problematic moves out onto the left shoulder of the corner. Continue up to a flake then the slabby blunt arete and the top part of Iron Maiden. 10 bolts plus the top bolt of Iron Maiden |
24
★ Dressed to Kill
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
Tutti 13 nodi visualizzati.