★★★ Six Days on the Toad 20

A classic. Start: Scramble up the Coffin Hole for about 15m to the top of a large boulder - the climb starts here. Belay Bolt. Straight up slab past BR to the diagonal of 2001 Bilbo Baggins where you can get a wire in. Straight up again past 4 BR to DBB.

Given the restrictions on new routes, brushing and bolting, new route activity is limited to trad climbing, and the easy lines (and the hard ones!) have long ago been developed, for the most part. The casual visitor is probably advised to stick to the established climbs, there are plenty to go around. Many climbs in this guide are listed as "Sport" in that they are bolted climbs with no natural gear required (or available) - many of these are truly "sporting" with old-school runouts. Some of the "Trad" climbs have little or no protection, and were soloed on FA. Please be careful - top roping is often possible and often the only way to adequately protect a route.