Vie in Gara Gorge del grado selezionato

Sit start left hand on the sidepull, traverse onto rail and up

3 stars of fun absurdity. This needs logs to build up a pad platform. Up the same arete as Gravity Well but head left through the blunt saddle with a finish you will gush over.

Up the crack then delicately step past the slab to the right high side pull. Easier with long span.

Start as for LD. Up arête using R seam, L high crimp & not much else. Dangerous landing.

As for OUAS but bridge high in roof and top out above.

Traverse around the blunt nose

Sequency start up then finish up right

Very delicate moves up the right face and the arete

Very delicate and balancy one move problem.

Stand start left on the pinch, right on tiny crimp, then up onto the right trending rail.

Join our select group! Drink the Kool-Aid! Start on the rail but avoid the flat top out and stretch way out left to the side pull, right heel hook, then match and work your way left up along the lower rail.

Up face and right arete

Jam in back, roof moves out right side avoiding left side

A punchy number on a tufa like feature. Over some shallow water so needs some rocks or logs under the pads.

Balancy slab problem. Spend an age eyeing up potential holds from beside the climb before being peer pressured into actually getting on it. Tiny crimpers get you established and some little gem crimper slots get you the escape. Mint.

A thin direct line straight up from the undercling

Sit start on obvious jug on west side of boulder. Head up then right to right facing rail and up to crimp slope top-out.

Up left on thin glued holds

Sit start on feature, then up rail to huge edge to mantel on crimp.

In the centre of the face are some large high holds, start on these.

Same start as Safety & Belonging, but then head up the outside to the rail and then dyno to top

Arete to left of crack

Sit start on obvious sloper/jug feature in break. Punch high to crimpers and mantle. Boulder to the R is out and should only be used to support your chalk bag/gear and sending sweeties.

Start low on left, heel hook your way up and right under roof, the up and mantle.

As for the regular traverse, but instead of going to high slopes above start holds, go further left onto small crimps, then drop down onto good edge further left and stay a bit lower than the regular traverse.

Note: noticed on 10-Nov-2010 that one of the small crimps has broken off, so it could be a lot harder now (Ben V*t to blame?)

One move, start left pinch on the arete, right hand on the sloper, then pull on and up. A line link from the lower rail through this is the obvious mega project.

Stand start R of R7. Essentially up the arete using all the little features & steering clear of all the large features.

Sit start at base of crack. Up through solid hand jammies until they become loose fists beyond the buldge. 100% crack baby.

Same start holds as 'Dyno'. Following actual dyno, head left along the horizontal crack until you meet the 'crack' climb from which you top-out.

An alternate crack top-out to the existing sloper finish

Start on small edges, dyno to large edge/ledge

Desperate crimps up face, hold broke off as well, grade is a guess.

The cube like boulder downhill and east of the Catacomb roof has a crimpy problem starting on the right arete, going across face to the left and up. Guessing at the grade, could be harder.

Sit start low on the right, left up through the bulge and then delicately up to the glory jug top out.

Sit start at tiny dihedral to the left of detached block at base of boulder, layback and throw up to sloper then latch huge edge, mantel onto it and slab to top.

The original line climbed in ‘82, at grade 18, by Jack Latanzio has long since fallen away leaving a much harder, direct, line.

Start: The overhanging dihedral right of P.A.D.

Up technical corner past 2 bolts to pull onto low angled wall (bolt) and up to belay as for Yoda.

Start: Right of Trajectory, three bolts up overhang on jugs to top. Double-bolt belay back up in corner.

Start 2m right of HPS following three FH trending right to anchors over lip.

Originally a project but unknowingly stolen by an unknown, nefarious Brisbanite. Start: The left wall of the dihedral Directly up the wall past three bolts.

Short man’s climb (The Gnome strikes again!)

Arête left of 'Psychosomatic'. Up crack, onto arête past 2 bolts to top.

The crack next to the Casuarina, the right hand end of the wall. Technical and sustained, longer than it looks. Intermittent thin cracks lead to a wider crack above. Then straight up slab to a good belay ledge and chains.

A hidden cave problem on excellent rock. A long traverse which starts easy and progressively ramps up to the crux where you turn vertically and exit out the chimney without touching the block behind you.

Water level needs to be fairly low. Fantastic juggy start then progressively harder through the face, a big dyno, then probably head left up the arete.

Right trending seam right of Shooting Star. Along overhang past 3 bolts, then up past a 4th bolt over lip to top. DBB directly after lip.

Bring small wires to redirect the belay.

Start as for Sweet Surrender. but once you’ve clipped the fourth bolt step back down and continue traversing right to the big jug and another bolt (ignore the extra bolt in between - it’s for another route and is a real bastard to clip. From the jug haul onto the slab and up the seam (wire placement) and onto the S.S. belay bolts.

A great traverse through slopers with a power finish

A more pure extension finish to the traverse up the diagonal crack

Up the great layback features then slightly left with a delicate spicy highball finish

From sit down side pull, traverse right all the way to big jug

Cruxy start through the rooflet onto the slab then straight up

Sit start on crimp, campus to jug, then traverse left and up

Only possible at low water levels. Technical layback then up rail

A couple layback moves, then reachy left span move and link into the left crack

Start on rail, delicately step on and hock up and mantle. A sit start from the lower left rail seems possible

Stand start reach into the glory hold on Jugtastic then traverse on hard slopers left to a big jug then up. A full link up of all 3 lines would make a proper epic king line.

Either climb 'Pockets Full of Emptiness' or do a roped easy traverse onto the ledge. Can also be accessed via the 'Cloud Grazer' abseil.

Up a flared off-width with two carrots, ignore the choss deep in the crack. Gain a semi decent rest at the roof, then bust right for 4m before heading directly through the burly roof crack, round the lip and on and upwards through more off-width to finish.

Thin climbing in an amazing position. Rap in to hanging DBB. Climb up the project for 2 bolts and then left to the arete.

Start: The obvious thin crack in the middle of the face.

Up the tapering crack with a cruxy move out right and on to the top.

Start: The line up the face left of Get Nuked.

Two bolts protect the upper half. Up the face (Friends in breaks) to the bolt and interesting crux, past second bolt and up to top.

Start: The scalloped wall 8m left of “The Jaws of Life”.

Use short shallow corner to get established on the wall. Up past three bolts to friends in horizontal break, then two more bolts to bolt belay on ledge and a chain just above your head, around the roof.

10m right of CDS, hand/fist size crack with a deceptively steep and pumpy boulder finish to DBB

Start just left of GJ, mainly using the big crack until traversing left to mantle the ledge. Some delicate moves gain a good stance before the crux, fire out a very thin crux then head slightly left over the lip to DBB.

Start as for Bomb Town and then directly up the face

Start: about 3m right of ‘The Last Laugh’ on block.

Step off the block and up right, then back left to first bolt. Up through overlap and second bolt, then trend right past 2 more bolts then up and back left to ledge. Scramble left along ledge to chains atop of ‘The Last Laugh’.

Start: 2m right of ‘Moral Decline’.

Up past 3 bolts to hanging block, move left to belay.

Originally done with an aid rest at 23M0 but this was eliminated a week or two later by Lattanzio.

Start: 4m right of 'Payolla'

Up thin crack, traverse left to join base of a second crack. Climb this to the top

(eats chunder out of a dead tadpole’s bum)

Up the hair-line crack to the good ledge and bolt. Thence up, up and away.

Start: 2m right of ‘Sticky Deposit’.

Up fiercely overhung water streak, then up groove, trend right up slab to ‘Higher Purchase’, up this to top.

Interesting and well protected climbing up the ‘Bang Bang’ wall. start: About 3m right of ‘Bang Bang’.

Up onto large blocks to clip the first bolt, then step right onto the slab, up and past another bolt to the crack of ‘Bang Bang’. Cross this and head straight up the wall past 2 more bolts to the top. Belay/rap chains in place.

Originally had two points of aid, the first being the second bolt. The aid was almost eliminated by Paul Bayne and was eventually freed by Giles Bradbury May 1983. It is now one of New England’s it most popular hard free routes.

Start: Sm right of ‘Bang Bang’ at rightward trending groove.

Follow groove right, then back left past bolt runner into corner, up to second bolt and on to ledge and belay/rap chain. Note that both bolts are usually clipped with wires first these days.

This poor excuse for a climb should be cemented up... actually it’s probably a good route for visiting Queenslanders to do.

Start: About 10m right of ‘That’s Entertainment’ below big ugly 3 chimney.

1. 20m Up the cleft on the right wall as for ‘The Gremlin’, a tussle with chock stones lands one before the gates.

2. 20m Jump into bottomless cavern and squeeze upwards (usually) in total darkness to a sandy grotto.

3. 5m Several overhanging mud pull-ups to top.

Start: Rap into the ledge halfway up ‘The Gates of Moria’ from the chains on top of ‘The Gremlin’ buttress. The climb starts from this ledge and goes up the right wall of the gully.

Clip the bolt then an awkward move to start to pull across onto the wall. Move right and up to a second bolt then up to the small roof and around this past a third bolt, then follow the rightward trending seam up past another bolt to the arête. Easily to top. Chain belay plus a bolt down lower where the climb meets the arête.

Start: from the sentry box atop of pitch one of ‘Working Class Heroes’.

From the sentry box belay step left onto the wall and crack. A hard crank right, then back left overcomes the blank section.

A hard bouldery short route.

Start: From the top abseil down to the base of the chimney between the dome and the main cliff (on the left side). It is the steep slab just left of the chimney.

Up slab past two bolts

Hardly worth the effort.

Start: Left of ‘Pagan Paradise’ and about 2m right of 'I'm Laughin’

Up thin crack to ledge, clip bolt runner then a hard move out left to the arête. Continue up arête past another bolt runner to top.

Start: At the bottom of the V-chimney below the obvious roof about Om right of Dogmatic Demise’ on the extreme right hand end of the flight deck.

Up V-chimney, step left under roof, then follow crack through roof to top.

Very sustained and hard crack climbing (mostly).

Originally aid through the first roof then a couple of rests up higher but was freed on it’s second ascent by Bayne and Colyvan with a bit of yo-yoing on 1/8/82,

Start: To the right of ‘Charisma’.

Through fists roof, up crack through second roof, up overhanging rightward trending crack past fixed wire then up wall to top.

Classic thin face climbing.

Start: About two metres left of ‘Ambrosia’.

Clip fixed wire with a stick then over bouldery start to the finger crack. Up this to a bolt then continue up wall past another bolt to a third bolt. Move left and up to a fourth bolt, then left and up again to chain on top.

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Start: 2m right of ‘Grave Reservations’, the overhanging orange Corner.

1. 20m (crux) Tip overhanging corner, then move left mid up groove to ledge.

2. 20m Up corner then gully to finish as for Grave Reservations.

There are a couple of spots on this route where a fail could be nasty.

Start: On the ledge 2m right of ‘Short Back and Slides’ at about half height.

Easily up to overlap, step right and up to bolt runner then continue to top, moving slightly left near the top.

Start: The next line right of 'Short Back and Slides' at ground level.

Up hand crack which splits into two finger cracks below a tree, continue to blocky ledge. Scramble up corner then right then up.

"Don't fake the funk on a nasty dunk"- Coke iid. rake-

Rocks and R.P.'s plus Friends up to #3 , plus 3 bolt plates.

Start: Right on the corner at the bottom of the gully, takes in the first few moves of Down On Creation.

Up 'Down on Creation' for approx. 8m, then step right onto the wail. Up wall past BR to small rest ledge, then steeply up line to second BR. From here swing out right, up, then back left to large jug and third BR on small shelf Continue up steeply (crux) to belay ledge. Belay and rap off wires,

Conceived, cleaned and bolted by Al. Stephens only to be knowingly stolen by Tadpole and co. on a climbing trip down from Brisbane.

Start: About 5m right of 'Humble Pie'.

Up past 4 B.R.'s to a ledge, then up past 2 more B.R.'s to the top.

For many years the 'Last Great Problem'.

Start: 3m left of the large off-width at the left end of the Yellow face.

1. 14m Up a short finger crack (4m) to edge then right to straggle up corner crack in body ' V to the top of the block.

2. 9m Delicately up the open corner (cruxy) to the large ledge (halfway). 3 B.R.'s.

3. 8m Boulder problem start the easy finger crack to ledge below the small roof.

4. 26m Up crack to roof, around roof (crux) then continue up layback to small ledge, tiptoe left then continue to top.

Hard and gnarly. One of New England's hardest crack lines. Can easily be split into 2 pitches at the ledge.

Originally all aid by R. Dixon and A. Stephens in 1976. M. Colyvan and G. Croft freed it up to the ledge in '81 and P. Bayne and A. Stephens freed the remainder in July 1982.

Start: 5m left of 'Gnome Tree', the left of two cracks.

Follow intermittent crack and shallow comer to ledge then take the superb, sharp finger crack to the top.

Tricky, sustained and simply superb.

Start: The crack/seam immediately right of 'Pin Up'. Follow the crack to the ledge then on to top.

Sustained and varied climbing up a steep wall. This climb has a reputation for not having many repeat ascents - not for want of people to try it!

Start: 8m right of'Shady Lady'.

Up thin seam trending left to rightward trending crack, some exciting moves up to leftward groove past one B.R. to top.