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Nodo
Slider Wall

Ridiculously popular. Mostly short, mostly bolted with close access. Make sure you take care of any toileting before heading up the gully. Bringing a stick clip is advised but not completely necessary.

Lower Slider
10 The Fires of Jealousy

Pleasant climbing up good rock.

Start: Back down 5m L from BB amongst trees at fallen log. First climb on LH wall of the 'Slider' gully.

17 Blowing Bubbles

Up past FH then move L onto small ledge (FH). Pass two more FH's and up to anchor up R (shared with MM).

Start: Start: At base of gully below rounded arête.

28 You win some you lose some

Aspiring repeat ascentionists are asked to not stand on the major crux hold once getting above it as it may snap off and render the route impossible.

23 Monkey Magic

Quality sustained crimpy climbing. Start a couple of meters right of YWSYLS. Seeps longer than most climbs here after heavy rain.

23 Tripitaka

More sustained thinness. Five FH's to anchor shared with Pigsy.

Start: Off the platform just up and R from the start of Monkey Magic.

21 Pigsy

Start: 3m right of 'Tripitaka'

Stickclip recommended. Four FH's to anchor shared with Tripitaka. Optional small wires between second and third bolts.

19 Something About Sandy

Start 3m R of 'Pigsy'.

Bit of a one move wonder. Better than it looks. 5 FHs to anchor.

16 The Horse

Start 3m R of 'Something About Sandy'.

Was a dodgy trad climb, now retrobolted with 4 FHs and a DBB.

15 Such A Nice Monster

Start: A further 10m up the gully.

Great! Five FH's up corner-like feature. Shares an anchor with TMMM.

21 The Most Monstrous Monster

... of a Jug. So big in fact that it'll be full of water after rain! Enjoy the shower.

24 Even Monsters Can Be People

A hold has "appeared" at the crux making it much easier.

Shares the same 2 first bolts as TMMM then continues up and right. One obvious crimpy crux then eases off substantially.

24 The Vampire Master

Four FHs to chains. Some long and powerful moves on good holds.

Start: R of TMMM

24 What We Do in the Shadows

Start just to the right of The Vampire Master on some small crimps. Prepare your fingertips for some unbelievably small holds through the middle. Take care at the second bolt as a ground fall is possible.

21 A Shadow So Huge

Start on next platform up right from What we do in the Shadows.

Definitely stickclip first FH to avoid an ugly fall as you strain your tendons on the first moves. Hang on then it's all over. Cruise jugs past second FH. Finish up OC's last FH and chain.

22 Outrageous Coincidences

Start: 1m right of A Shadow So Huge.

One of the shortest routes around. Three FH's to anchor.

Lower Slider Link-ups

Here are the many link-up's of Lower Slider.

23 Magictrip

Climb the first 3 bolts of Monkey Magic then head right clipping a connection bolt then finish up Tripitaka.

23 The Minx And The Slug

Reversy-traversy.

Start at 'Something about Sandy' and traverse across Pigsy, Tripitaka and 'Monkey Magic' before finishing at the chains of 'Blowing Bubbles'

24 Monster Master

Start up SANM for 3 bolts then head right across TMMM and into EMCBP, and finally finishing up last two bolts of TVM.

Lower Slider - East Wall

The next 3 climbs are on the gully wall opposite Lower Slider Wall.

22 What Monkey Calls The Dog-Woman

Ridiculously short but good. 3 bolts.

Start: 5m L of the tree

14 Monkey Swallows The Universe

Starts at the base of the tree and goes up the arête. After that, head L and follow the obvious seam up to chain. Two bolts then small cams and wires.

12 Monkey Goes Wild About Heaven

Up onto broad ledge (FH) then go R to arête. Up passing many good stances and four more FH's. Finish as for MSTU with wires in obvious seam to chain.

Start: 5m down R of MSTU.

Outside Slider

The following climbs aren't in the 'Slider Wall' gully. They're found about 50m R along the base of the cliff.

19 Bite My Shiny, Metal Ass

The furthest left route on the small cliff. Pleasant climbing straight up.

20 Branigan's Law

Ringbolt then 4 FH's. Stick clip first, tricky moves off deck to rest, then cunning fingerlock to reach slopers over bulge. Easy to top. Lower off.

21 The Robot Devil

Two close together first bolts, then fun, tricky moves off sidepulls to top.

Start: R of Brannigan's Law.

A steeper and more vegetated section of gully separates Slider's lower wall from its upper wall. Fro

A steeper and more vegetated section of gully separates Slider's lower wall from its upper wall. From 'Outrageous Coincidences' follow the rebar rungs up and around this section to arrive on the flat platform at the base of Upper Slider Wall.

A large number of fun pumpy climbs exist here. Slider (22), Squealer (23), Howler (24), Madder and Wailer (25) and the classic linkup 'Hybrid Vigour' (27). Once you have done these, then any number of linkups await.

22 Procrastinator

A bit of a one move wonder which eases in the upper half. Avoid the big blocks out L at about half height. Arapliesean.

Start: The L-most route on Upper 'Slider' wall.

22 Slider

Gently overhung sport climbing past seven FH's to an exciting conclusion which often sees pumped leaders take to the air.

Start: 3m R of 'Procrastinator' (before rock slab starts rising R-wards).

23 Squealer

An awesome undertaking. Six FH's straight up to a lower-off. Stick clipping advised if getting to the first bolt bothers you. (Originally, Squealer traversed in from Howler).

Start: From the first raised platform.

25 Madder

Fantastic, absorbing vertical climbing with a punchy finish. This could now be the best single pitch sport route in the Glasshouses at the grade.

Start: Just R of 'Squealer'

24 Howler

Superb moves on mostly big, flat holds. Five bolts with a late crux to a lower off. Gareth's done it cleanly up, down, weighted down, in slow motion, and with bare feet... Seriously.

Start: Just R of 'Madder'

25 Wailer

The right most line on the wall before the corner.

Start: Start as for 'Howler' and veer right. Wailer has a separate 1st bolt 1 meter right of 'Howler'.

25 The Final Piece

Two bolts up the corner to ledge. Step across the void onto the wall, and up past four bolts to lower-off. Take a #1 cam for the top or dare the run out. A couple of bouldery moves in a breezy position!

24 Doctor Pinocchio

Climb up the gully at the right-hand end corner of the crag. follow up 'The Final Piece' to its 5th bolt. From here step right and then follow a further 4 fixed hangers up before joining back to The Final Piece anchor.

21 Overseer

Long and pumpy climbing with great views.

Start: Up the first 3 bolts of 'The Final Piece' then walk up the slab to a anchor bolt with a single ring, straight up from here to access Overseer.

24 Overseer Right Hand Variant

Same as for Overseer but follow the right most line of bolts.

A list of the many link-ups of the Upper Slider Wall. Linking up multiple crux's in a row creates ha

A list of the many link-ups of the Upper Slider Wall. Linking up multiple crux's in a row creates hard lines and extraordinary pump!

18 Swinger

A link up taking the line of least resistance. Start as for Squealer, crossing Slider and finishing up Procrastinator.

22 Procrastislider

Start up Procrastinator, head right and join into Slider via an additional traverse bolt. Finish the link-up at Slider's chains.

23 Procrastisquealer

Same as for Procrastislider but continue right into Squealer and do it's crux and finish up this.

24 Procrastimadder

Same as for Procrastisquealer but traverse R and finish up Madder.

24 Procrastihowler

Same as for Procrastisquealer but at the 6th bolt of Squealer bust right again across Madder and then power through the crux of Howler and up this.

26 Procrastiwailer

Same as for Procrastihowler but head R again and through the Wailer crux to finish the line.

25 "A Little Madder"

Still needs cleaned stay off for now.

Adds a little more pumpy madness to the classic Madder.

27 Vigorous Procrastination

Climb Procrastiwailer but instead of finishing up it keep pumping across to Final Piece and continue riding the pump train to the anchors.

24 Howler VF

Start Howler and join Madder for its last bolt.

25 Wowler

Start up Wailer and head left after the second last bolt, finishing up Howler clipping its last bolt.

27 Hybrid Vigour

A very popular link-up test piece of the wall. Climb up Wailer to it's final bolt, traverse right and join into The Final Piece. Fire The Final Piece crux and add or skip the final piece of gear (if you dare the run-out). Absolute classic pumpy link-up.

27 Pinocchio's Extension

As for Hybrid Vigour, but continue traversing through to Doctor Pinocchio and finish up that.

27 Chain Reaction

As for Pinocchio's Extension but when you near the top of Doctor Pinocchio keep heading right to Overseer.

25 Geppetto

Climb As for Doctor Pinocchio but at it's last bolt traverse right into the crux of Overseer and finish up this. A long link-up with an epic view at the chains.

28 The Forty Metre Mile

Pack your draws because this is a super link-up. Climbs the 1st and 2nd of Procrastinator, 2nd and 3rd of Slider, bolt 3, 4 and 5th of Squealer, 4th of Madder, 3rd of Howler, 4th and 5th of Wailer, 4th of The Final Piece and finish up this. Some long slings will help alleviate rope drag.

28 The Expedition

Start as for the 40 meter mile but head across Dr Pinocchio and finish up Overseer.

29 Departures

Yes it's a another mega linkup. Procrastislider to Slider's 2nd last bolt. Then across the wall to the deadpoint (2nd last bolt) of Howler, then right to the last bolt of Wailer and finish up Dr Pinocchio. Superduperpooperpumper!!!

29 Pandora

The longest and hardest Link-up of them all. Climb The Expedition, but finish up Overseer Right Hand Variant. Adds a resistance crux that's a heart breaker...

15 Unknown

Originally climbed to access the top of Slider and Beyond.

  1. 20m (15) Start up between Slider & Squealer, utilising available trad placements, about 8-10m, till it's possible to traverse left (run-out) and up an angled ledge (good gear) to the top. Trad belay.

  2. 15m (4) From here, up the slope to the chains on Howler & rap off.

V6 Watermark

Just down and left of the upper routes. Awesome rock!!

Tutti 61 nodi visualizzati.

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