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Castle Creek

  • Contesto grado: AU

È vietato arrampicare in questa area.

18

Limitazioni per l'accesso

Prioritised for review

Etica ereditato da Grampians

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

  • Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

  • Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

  • Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

  • Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

  • Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

  • Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

  • Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

  • Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

  • Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

  • Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

  • Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Tags

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Grado Via

Up wall on left of arête 9m left of Young Ones Reign. Right to arête at vague horizontal. Up to ledge, then steep crack.

FA: Phil Robertson, Wayne Maher & Andrew Webb, 1991

Main corner 3m left of Back Slider.

FA: Ross Taylor, Peter Canning, Andrew Eccleshall & Barry Russell, 1991

Zigzag line 43m left of right end of middle cliff.

FA: Andrew Webb, Glen Donohue, Wayne Maher & Phil Robertson, 1991

Short corners 50m left of Geriatricks. Finish up right-facing corner below tree.

FA: Peter Canning & Ross Taylor, 1991

The left of two lines at left of middle cliff

FA: Storer & Brereton, 1991

Start left of Frying and Crying. Corner to roof, then left and up crack.

FA: Ray Perry, Gerald Gierer, John Knowles, Liz Sawyers, Michelle Scott & Peter Thomson, 1992

Subtle line with hard start 6m right of pillar near right end of right-hand cliff and immediately left of conifer (not used).

FA: David Gairns & Chris Baxter, 1995

Crack up left side of The Bonatti Pillow’s pillar.

FA: Peter Smith & Mark Jones, 1994

Front of pillar 3m right of Grimace and 1m right of Tin Men.

FA: Chris Baxter, Sue Baxter, David Gairns & Michael Stone, 1995

Steep but with amazingly commodious holds. Start up right arête of cave 2mleft of On The Road Again. Up.

FA: Chris Baxter, Cassandra Azzaro & Geoff Gledhill, 1996

Groove 2m left of Grimace.

FA: Chris Baxter, Sue Baxter, David Gairns & Michael Stone, 1995

‘The only way to overcome temptation is to yield to it.’ Oscar Wilde. Up bulging wall 2m right of Wimping Out and just left of cave.

FA: Chris Baxter & David Gairns, 1995

Groove 1m right of Dirty Weekend.

FA: Michael Stone, Chris Baxter, Sue Baxter & David Gairns, 1995

Take the biggest pro (to 18cm!). Off-width behind pinnacle between Jodd and Solid As A Rock.

FA: Chris Baxter, Karen Muir & Peter Muir, 1995

Tell ‘em you led Oz’s first! Start as for Jodd. Follow flake up and out left.

FA: Chris Baxter & Geoff Gledhill, 1995

Short V-groove 2m left of Greasy Daze. Left from top of this, then up.

FA: Chris Baxter & Geoff Gledhill

Crack just left of descent gully left of Solid As A Rock.

FA: Geoff Gledhill & Chris Baxter, 1995

Line 2m right of Frying And Crying.

FA: Chris Baxter & Geoff Gledhill, 1995

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Selected Guidebooks more Nascondi

Autore/i: Steve Toal

Data: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 1 of the Central Grampians guide covers the North and East regions and features over 1400 routes spread over 124 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Autore/i: Steve Toal

Data: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 2 of the Central Grampians guide covers the West and South regions and features over 970 routes spread over 55 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Autore/i: Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

Data: 2016

ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

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