Vie in Eastern Wall Cliffs

Face left of Hsiao Ping. Up left arête just right of cave, then middle of face to major break. Up (rest on BR) and through overhang, then easily up.

Crack 2m right of Lin Shao Chito ledge (crux). Now veer right to steep bulges and arête.

Last major face on right of cliff. Left-facing corner (cairn) to ledge, then right-facing corner to ledge. Up steeply past bulges.

Prominent fin protruding from base of left side of descent gully, left end of cliff. Crack above, then directly through tricky bulge.

Start 2m left of Kurdish Peasant Girl. Up slabby face past horizontal break and good holds to small ledge on arête. Continue up short crack to larger ledge, up groove to V crack - up to top.

Start 2m right of Kurdish Peasant Girl at obvious arête. Steep moves on good holds to start up arête past 2 FHs to flake on right-hand side of arête. Traverse right to rap station above Rasta Rant.

Shares Kowloon Crack for 3m, then breaks left on to beautiful orange face with good features. Delicate move leads past FH to small wires and top (there is now a double ring abseil which services Kowloon Crack, Rasta Rant and Tao Master - 12m to ground)

The 1st pitch is terrific. Can traverse left to lower off bolts of RR after 1st pitch.

Superb jamming.

1. ?m Black streak and crack right of Kowloon Crack to ledge.

2. ?m Right hand of two seams,chimney.

fun face climbing - a bit contrived. Well protected with small wires.

Start: begin around 7m right of left arete of main face (before it disintegrates and becomes the left descent gully).

great face climbing with adequate protection. May be worth 2 stars.

Start: 12m right of KF.

1. 40m (21) Up weakness and right facing corner above. Left at roof and up wall, veering slightly right at first.

2. 10m (-) up and right

a fun face climb in a similar vein to 'Broken China' - good protection. Double ropes handy.

Start: wall just left of arete of 'Broken China' Buttress.

1. 40m (19) Up and left below bulge at 30m. Continue up steep seem and over overhang at top.

2. 10m (-) up and right

Has been freed at 25.

22 M1

Details in Central Grampians Vol 2, Toal S

Small, orange corner 4m right of Dim Sim. Continue up left side of nose (belay possible here). Up

1. ?m Front of buttress 4m left of Lam Jack Chu to deep groove. Steep wall.

2. ?m Step right, then through over-hang. Left to ledge, then up left easily.

one of the earlier routes at Peking face, with a goey crux moving out of the top of the corner.

1. 21m (15) Climb up on to block on left and move up right in to attractive corner. Exciting moves up the corner then left.

2. 27m (13) Up in to v-chimney.

Cultural Cringe DF

From midway up the last pitch, go direct up the headwall (where the original goes up the scrappy gully to the left). The holds aren't visible from the ledge, but they keep on coming.

A steep, varied and interesting climb. Good protection. Easily climbed in a single pitch.

Start: Slightly left of where the track reaches the cliff is a slightly overhung v crack.

1. 15m (20) fun, albeit awkward & pumpy climbing leads to a small cave.

2. 15m (20) crack to overhang above second break. Step right to terrace.

a steep, exciting first pitch

Start: across the gully from 'Ancient Warriors' is a steep imposing buttress.

1. 30m (22) from the middle of the buttress, climb up left past two ledges on the left arete. Exciting face climbing follows (RP's etc.) until it is possible to move right in to the main crack which is followed to a ledge.

2. 12m (18) the crack through the middle of the buttress.

Start marked 4m R AHMB. Climb bulge (awkward move at grade 18) and up to L-facing corner. Climb it and go L to R-facing corner, which leads to an overhang at 10m. R under overhang to ledge and tree. Etc etc.B) Instead of repeating HK as described (very indirect) we did a direct version, in one pitch up to HK’s3rdbelay. (We found a fixed wire on crux of new climbing so may have been done (or tried) before. This ascent eliminates (i) two traverses and HK’s second pitch and (ii) freed the previously unreported aid move? to surmount the initial bulge (see Argus July 2000 p.8) which might be grade14 ... but only with 5 or 6 silent “+”’s

Where HK should have gone.

1. 33m Up HK to overhang at 10m. Steeply up left side then straight up HK third pitch.

2. 15m Finish as for HK pitch four.