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Vie in Bad Moon Rising Wall

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Tutti 22 vie visualizzati.

Grado Via Stile equipaggiamento Popolarità
Black Streak Project

Adam Demmert has his eye on this line. Might go at grade 24+

Trad
9 Strong Social Conscience

No bolt ladders here. Good fun jugging with good gear on good rock, may even be worth a second star? Start around 20m left of Bad Moon Rising's corner. Up the mega jugs on the left side of the smooth grey wall for about 15m, tending right up jugs to blank looking wall. Traverse left approx 5m until decent holds appear, straight up through gap heading right of small black chimney up face on good holds to top.

FA: Josef Goding & Eric Sidharta, 2007

Trad 25m
18 11am

Worthless sand climbing. Offwidth seam and crack on wall directly behind 'Raunchy Rooster' and near the tree scramble down descent from 'Tribute Wall'.

FA: Mick Jennings & James McIntosh, 1998

Trad 12m
20 Run Rabbit Run

U-bolts up the blank slab just right of the jugs of Strong Social Conscience. Follow bolts up the slab to arête, trying to avoid going too far left into the chasm. A hard move at top of arête leads up the wall above. Finish at double U-bolt anchor.

FFA: adam demmert & @cathdv, 2011

Sportiva 25m
23 Rabbit Stew

Link up of RRR into RITH 22/23 Start up RRR till top of Arete and a U bolt leads you off right past another bolt to join RITH at its last bolt. interesting slab climbing and a better way to do RRR.

FFA: adam demmert, 2011

Sportiva 25m
27 Bunny Boiler

A 27 slab.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, 2012

Sportiva
21 Rabbit in the Headlights

Starts on low arete 3m left of PJ. Moves left across face following 6FH's. Move left at 5FH where the slab blanks out, then up. A tad engaging.

Sportiva 20m, 6
20 Familiar Patterns

Pumpy and a touch contrived at one point. Starts as Puddlejugs. Up for 7m to the exposed ledge on the arete (bring some trad if you want pro up to here). Clip high FH and thug up steep jugs on right side of arete and then onto the arete proper.

FA: Kent Paterson, 2010

Sportiva 20m, 5
17 Puddlejugs

The prominent arete left of the 'Bad Moon Rising' corner with some amazing in-cut jugs. Climb the Bad Moon Rising corner for 5m, moving left onto the pedestal. Continue up the overhung face moving left around the arête, and follow the righthand crack to the top.

FA: Ben Cirulis & Jo Hugman, 2005

Trad 20m
12 Bad Moon Rising

The landmark right facing leaning corner on the left side of the wall. The line looks good but the rock quality is fairly suss in many places. Bring a full rack.

FA: James McIntosh & Melanie Taws, 1986

Trad 30m
11 Bite The Hand

Direct line up juggy gritty slab. Starts 6m right of 'Bad Moon Rising' below light grey streak which ends at same finish as BMR. Up left side of grey streak to delightful short right facing thin flake at 1/3 height. Continue up on jugs to top.

FA: Neil Monteith & Kathy Dicker, 2005

Trad 30m
8 Octohexarian

The central buckety black streak. Take slings for bollards.

Start: Starts about 10m right of 'Bad Moon Rising' and 4m left of 'Headless Chickens'.

FA: Unknown's, 1980

Trad 20m
15 Headless Chickens

A bit better than 'Bitten Finger'. 2m L of 'Bitten Finger'. Easily up orange patch to bulge, which is breached via a small crack/weakness with great gear and buckets. Headless chickenheads keep the slab above interesting. Take wires & small-med cams.

FA: Ben Cirulis & Will Monks, 2005

Trad 18m
17 Bitten Finger

Slabby wall climb that is mostly trad. The first features left of the central blank section of the wall are two parallel orange overlaps. Climb the overlaps with pro on the left, to the crux bulge (BR). Follow the holds and gear up the slab above, staying just left of a small water groove. Takes wires, small-med cams and a bolt plate.

FA: Will Monks & Ben Cirulis, 2005

Trad mista 18m, 1
20 Sleep Forever

The right leading line of u-bolts leading to Revenge of the Chickens anchor.

Climb Left of the bolts at the 1st and 2nd bolt. Traverse right when your hands are level with 3rd bolt (essentially the lowest possible traverse line).

Warning : if you choose to climb up high then traverse right (the higher traverse line) you may not be able to clip the 3rd bolt, as this bolt will be positioned below your feet. At this point you are facing a ground fall.

FA: Kent Paterson, 2010

Sportiva 20m, 7
24 Revenge Of The Chickens

The other best route on this cliff. Up CHH to bolt three, then traverse left across break and follow line of UB's up the increasingly difficult wall to runout finish. Double UB lower-off on ledge way up to the left.

FFA: adam demmert, 2005

FA: Adam Demmert, 2005

Sportiva 25m, 6
23 Chicken Head Hunters

Elegant face route in a similar vein to 'Diazepam'. Start 2m L of the black streak. Very thin start which eases considerably at the halfway point. At least six bolts and a double U-bolt lower off.

FFA: adam demmert & James Pfrunder, 2005

FA: Adam Demmert & James Pfrunder, 2005

Sportiva 22m, 6
22 All The Way To Eleven

Clip first two bolts on Rage And Ruin. Step down and head diagonally left across the black streak and up the orange headwall past a further 4 bolts.

FA: James Pfrunder, 2005

Sportiva 18m, 6
23 Rage And Ruin

Best route on this wall. Nice face climbing with a pumpy surprise finish. Start at rightwards arching undercling flake.

FA: Neil Monteith, Adam Demmert & Mike File, 2005

Sportiva 18m, 6
23 Tomcatting Town Planner

Linkup that starts as for Rage and Ruin then links across undercling flake past 1 bolt to join the Rooster.

FA: Kent Paterson, 2012

Sportiva 15m
22 Raunchy Rooster

Start at the vertical seam and crimp like a fiend on the few edges that haven't yet been ripped off the wall. Follow the bolts to an exciting finale.

FA: Mike FIle, 2005

Sportiva 18m, 5
18 Thy Shall Not Always Speak Thy Mind

Face climbing with a mix of bolts and trad gear plus copious amounts of loose rock. Starts in the chimney at the far right side of 'Bad Moon Rising' wall about 10m right of 'Raunchy Rooster'.

FA: Josef Goding & Naomi Gibbs, 2007

Trad mista 28m, 4

Tutti 22 vie visualizzati.

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