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Main Cliff - South Principalmente Arrampicata sportiva 21 vie in parete

  • Contesto grado: AU
  • Ascensioni: 118
21
AU
131517192123

Stagionalità

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Limitazioni per l'accesso ereditato da Grampians

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Etica ereditato da Grampians

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

  • Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

  • Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

  • Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

  • Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

  • Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

  • Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

  • Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

  • Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

  • Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

  • Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

  • Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

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1
18 ★ Terabithia Sportiva 15m, 6

Five metres past the little waterfall that marks the right end of the Smokers Corner area. Perplexing start to good slabbing, the line of FH's.

2
13 ★ Fresh Prince Albert Sportiva 25m, 8

2m R of Terabithia. Step off the blocks to gain the big slot. Over the rooflet following the runnels of least resistance to the large ledge and DBB. Lower now or belay and abseil for the full adventure.

3
22 ★ Sega Sportiva 20m, 6

Thin and steep bolted slab with superb technical moves 2m R of FPA.

4
14 One Two Seven Trad 18m

Finger crack 15m r of Sega, shares anchor with ROC.

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5
22 ★★ Reliance on Compliance Sportiva 21m, 6

Starts in the little alcove. Thin techy bolted slab. Runout but very easy climbing to the anchors.

6
20 ★ Beefeater Sportiva 21m, 6

Bolted slab & arete. Either start as ROC or bridging is permitted while getting yourself established.

7
17 ★★ Monosynaptic Trad 21m

A singular brain cell. Classic R facing dihedral. Starts from the ledge and goes direct up brilliant finger and hand jams, now meticulously scrubbed for your consumption! Worth bringing in a single rack of cams and some wires for. Belay/ lower from Beefeater anchor or top rope it after.

8
13 Idiot Sandwich Trad 23m

You'd have to be. In the cool cave R of Monosynaptic is a large suspect broken flake. Climb the R side beginning at an undercling before traversing left to the other side, horizontal at feet. Continue up to the big ledge to belay off the flat boulder. Walk to FPA anchors to descend.

9
14 ★ Hoarse Whisperer Sportiva 25m

20m Right of Idiot Sandwich. Bridging fun starting either off the boulder at base or up the crack. Clip & lower anchor.

10
17 ★ Bongo Birds Sportiva 25m

First bolted line left of the boulder. Steep start to bulges to slab. Rings at belay.

11
17 The Chin Sportiva 16m

Middle ring bolted line. Steep start past the chin to bulges. Rings at belay.

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12
16 ★★ Holey Diver Sportiva 21m

Novelty route! To keep the grade consistent at 16 crawl through the hole into the cave and tie in from there. Rings at belay.

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13
21 ★★ The Jump Line Sportiva 13m, 6

Another hilarious novelty route. Stick clip the belay anchor on the podium and figure out how to get across safely... Awesome steep jugs. Take care when lowering as the rope will always end up settling into the funnel below the anchors. To prevent a jammed rope and getting stuck in space either rap off or if lowering ensure the climber's side of the rope is nestled into the groove first, belayers side on top.

14
17 Hauser Sportiva 9m

Pocketed face on average sandy rock that stays dry in rain to the right of ‘The Jump Line’. Hard extension through the bulges is an open project waiting for a strong climber.

15
- Closed Project - SportivaProgetto

The crazy looking roof line. STAY OFF.

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16
22 ★★ Nephila Sportiva 28m, 12

Initially climbed as a bold ground up trad lead, this line is now a popular sport adventure! The tall line to the right of the Recollection cave. Begin at a small finger crack below the big telephone thread. Follow the orange runnels, through the roof then charge up the headwall. Brilliant.

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17
13 Lucken Fichen Trad 15m

Scramble to the top of the big boulder to access the left of the two big cracks. Climb up to the good belay ledge on the right. Descend via TFC lower offs, may need to stay roped up to access them.

18
17 ★ Tears in Rain Trad 13m

Nice finger jamming with good pro. Follow the small crack left of the bolted route. Rap off TFG anchor.

FFA: Joe Goding & Adam Demmert, 2008

19
19 ★★ The Forgotten Child Sportiva 13m, 6

Curved seam with orange streak. Finish at lower off.

Originally a mixed route. Retrobolted as requested by the FA.

FA: adam demmert & Joe Goding, 2008

20
20 ★ The Don Sportiva 12m, 5

The clean arete right of TFC. Trundle up the blocky start then step on and resist any urge to bridge. Like kabana by the campfire, the don is the goods!

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21
23 ★★ The Deal Sportiva 13m, 5

The clean and pumpy ring bolted face right of the Don. Beautiful pocketed start leads through a technical sequence of quality moves before jugs to the top.

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Selected Guidebooks more Nascondi

Central Grampians Guide Vol 1 North and East

Autore/i: Steve Toal

Data: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 1 of the Central Grampians guide covers the North and East regions and features over 1400 routes spread over 124 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

-5% Acquista
ⓘ
Central Grampians Guide Vol 2 West and South

Autore/i: Steve Toal

Data: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 2 of the Central Grampians guide covers the West and South regions and features over 970 routes spread over 55 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

-5% Acquista
ⓘ
Grampians Bouldering Guide

Autore/i: Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

Data: 2016

ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

Acquista
ⓘ

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