Vie in Flat Rock

Steeeep and fun. Starts off the ledge above the walk in track at the far L end. Either climb Radioactive Man and walk across the ledge OR EASIEST climber abseils in to ledge from above (DRB anchor) and the belayer gets to stay on the ground.

Bouldery climbing leads to a juggy but very steep traverse R to some fun final thuggy moves up the last little head wall. Back jump to clean.

Great steep atmospheric thugging through some great terrain. Follow Double Nope Isotope to its last bolt and keep heading through steep terrain R past 4 more RBs and another short boulder.

Closed Project - starts off the ledge R of DNIT, climbs straight up the wall to join it 1/2 way across the traverse.

Closed Project - super hard, starts off the ledge R of DNIT, climbs straight up the wall to join it at the end of the traverse.

Aka Dope Man MkII ha ha. One for the boulders and the access pitch for DNI Start. Starts off the boulders on the far L side of the large cave. Steep boulder start and up the slabby face.

A wild and very steep ride up some pretty big features. Start as for City of Peace. Follow COP for 2 RBS then head L past some thin moves to a big break. Go further L past some slopes and a big move up to the L side of the large shield of rock. Follow the R side of this up past some big L heel moves to the top of the shield and ledge. Traverse the lip of this ledge and drop down a move to rejoin the last 10m of COP.

The City of Peace - aka Nagasaki. 7 years in the making, fires, surgeries, viruses, broken bones, Covid and now it’s free. The spectacular route up the main turret in the middle of the big Orange cave.

The original route here - and used to be protected by only one bolt! Start at the first `weakness' right of the overhanging section. Hard move over overhang to shallow left facing corner, follow this with increasing difficulty to where it ends. Traverse hard left to a tricky mantle and good face climbing up wall above - some wires or slings help with extreme run-out to anchor.

From just after the crux on L'Essence head right and finish as for Mutually Assured Destruction (MAD slab). Finish at L'Essence's anchor.

Starts just left of Uranium-234, up the blank face past FH’s. A big runout to either the L’Essence or Uranium-234 anchor.

Starts up the amazingly pocketed wall then moves delicately left through scoop to small flake. Trend diagonally left to anchors.

For those that like their bombs dropped in a straight line we have The Enola Gay .The result being a nuclear wasteland. Starts up Uranium-234 till the 4th bolt then step slightly right to join in on the 5th bolt of nuclear wasteland. Continue up to the anchors of nuclear wasteland.

4m right. Step off block to start and up short yellow streak (3 FHs) then take the left trending line of bolts up easy jugs to rap chain.

First 3 bolts of Nuclear Wasteland then take the right line of bolts. This was once a trad route but was retro bolted with permission from the FA.

Start immediately R of Yellow Cake at the base of short flake and rooflet. Boulder around the R side of this and up the short crack before stepping L onto bulge. Straight up the face to the roof clipping from big undercling if roof. Over roof and up juggy flake to the top.

Start 3m R of The Hot Zone, just L of Melting Moments. Up the edges and over the overlap almost in THZ, then work R till you get your R hand in the top flake of MM, then L on under clings and through the roof to join THZ for its last 3 bolts.

Delicately up orange wall to first overhang. Bouldery moves over overhang, up and R to second overhang. Brushed wall to top. Retro bolted with permission from the FA.

Start: Start 7m R of 'Yellow Cake'.

4m R of MM, up the pockets to a hard move and little jump into the big pocket. A few more moves get you the head wall.

Start approx 4 metres right of Melting Moments. Use longer QD at fourth bolt to prevent rope drag over bulge. Up slab to base of orange wall past some excellent small and large pockets, step out right (crux) to flake, then back left, over bulge on massive jugs then direct line to lower off.

A direct finish to Unraveling Fukushima. Follow UF past 4RBs and then straight up the wall to the anchors just L of the top of CIC.

A bit weird with a couple of tricky moves, especially if you're short. Starts 5m left of the landmark flake of Cooking in Chernobyl. After mantling past the second bolt, move left up flake then super reachy traverse right to cross Cooking in Chernobyl. Finish up pumpy headwall. 7 RBs + fixed sling.

Tradtastic. The L-facing flake that is a major feature of this wall about 25m right of Melting Moments.

Fantastic pumpy climbing on some great rock and holds. Start off the ledge up and to the R of CIC at an RB. Follow the hangers up and L to join UF for the last 2 RBs and its fantastic finish.

Start at the first bolt of 'Without Warning', but head up and slightly right to finish at anchor of 'Nuclear Novice'. Best to rap off as lowering kills the rope.

The best sport climb at its grade in the Grampians!? Start of the R end of the ledge about 10 R of CIC. Follow the bolts and jugs up the face to DUB. Best to rap off as lowering kills the rope.

Some nice moves. Start as for Nuclear Novice climb the first few moves of this before moving R and up the face past RBs to DRB lower off.

Line of U’s left of Dirty Bomb Up through juggy overlap to more great jugs in middle of wall with techy crux at top

Best easy route at this crag. Fun climbing and surprisingly cool holds. Starts about 5m R of UF, steep start on great holds then up the face looking for the cool pockets.

Starts 3m right of Dirty Bomb. RB then FH's - rising right traverse across face to corner then burrow under chockstone to chains.

Note the way the rope runs, the FH's can loosen and is why the first bolt needed replacing with the RB. Keep an eye on the others till the rest of the route is rebolted with glue-in's. RB and glue supplied by Safer Cliffs Victoria. Fixed 03/09/23

It's not a Blues Breaker or a Blues Maker. This is a linkup of Glow in the Dark and Moab. It is best for someone to 2nd it to clean it. Starts 3m right of Dirty Bomb. Rising right traverse across face to corner. Up 2m then step right across arete onto face then finish on ledge with chain.

Corner, then L wall, behind chockstone and either bridge or climb face.

Start: Line R of 'Cooking In Chernobyl'.

Not quite Nuclear. Fun climbing that starts up first 2 U bolts of Alpha Decay then steps left on RBs to anchors just R of the arête at the top.

starts 3m right of arête.Great climbing straight up wall on u bolts using nice side pulls and pockets .Consistent techie climbing at the grade.

From middle of slab (L of line of FH's), weave your way up and L to via some tricky slab moves. A tad run-out, but there is more gear than appearances suggest.

Scramble up ramp left of Blues Breaker. Juggy face to fun moves on pockets and slab above. Crux move has spat it's share of strong climbers off! Fixed hangers.

Scramble up ramp to left of Blues breaker. Nasty Nukes starts 2m right of Fickle Fission. Start the climb heading towards obvious chicken head. Then climb well featured face to fun large pockets and slab above 5 U-bolts +lower offs. A good warmup for Fickle Fission.

The corner.

Start: Line 18m R of 'Blues Maker'.

Starts 2m right of flake.Climb straight up right of bolts.Nice face climbing.

Traverse the diagonal crack/ledge. Start below Nuclear Error, follow crack up and right, step on to the small roof and continue along ledge to top. Bring lots of slings. Rapel off Alpha Decay.

The largest and smallest cams will be handy for the exciting finish.

Start: Start just R of 'Blues Maker'.

Start matched on the giant jug, move up to the pocket and jump!

Somewhat novel. Move up to L end of horizontal crack. Follow line R until it runs out, continue to corner and step down. Now reverse it or, perhaps, don't bother to start.

Don't blink. You're probably sick of this climb by the time you've read to here. The corner stands out from the walking track but is not very attractive on close acquaintance. Start by a tree below and L of the short orange corner at the L end of the cliff. Diagonally R to corner, up corner a bit. Step R around arete and finish steeply.

Steep. Boring adjective but exciting climbing.

Start: Start below overhanging wall a few m R of 'The Short Orange Corner'.

Looks ridiculously hard for the grade.

Another year, another climb. Start 20m R of 'Optimal Arousal' opposite cave/boulder. 'Steep' wall, hand traverse L then up easy crack.

Up crack 2m left of 'Sky Rocket', step left and follow vague groove to top.

Unobtrusive but quite pleasant. Crack 10m R of 'Perceived Freedom'. Approach from the R and walk L to end of ledge. Up with a tricky start and thin midsection.

Steep and enjoyable enough climbing through juggy bulges. Crack 5m R of 'Sky Rocket'.

Bolt left of Pegleg

Looks filthy but the climbing is much better than it appears. Needs a more direct finish.

Start: Just left of 'Pegleg' below the dirty groove

Very nice. Thin crack with an old piton 5m L of 'Bellerophon' and 10m R of Aditloeta. Awkward bulging top is hard to protect. May have been top-roped or aided ages ago.

Reachy climbing up face between 'Bellerophon' and 'Pegleg'. Be careful with pro.

Something of an easy classic. The major corner to the ledge and rap rings.

Quite serious for the grade. Not well protected at first, potential groundfall from 7m, can be protected with an No 1 and 0.75 Camalot in a break at about 4-5m. Runout at top. Take large hexes or cams. Start 2m R of 'Bellerophon'. Up tending L a tad to a sling at horizontal break. Up and R to nut, then up and leftish to finish just R of corner, taking care with large boulder.

Good face-climbing with some subtle placements. Cams to #3½.

Start: Thin cracks 2m R of 'Matthew Flinders', 2m L of prominent black water streak.

Sustained face climbing on turtle shell rock.

Start: Middle of face R of 'Bellerophon', 2m R of 'Vicious Fungus', on left edge of black streak. Take small cams and wires.

Start: Black water streak 8m R of 'Bellerophon', 2m R of 'Streaks Ahead'.

Looks good. 3m R of black water streak is a slight groove. Up L edge of groove.

Good fun and surprisingly exposed. Take 5 or 6 slings. Start just R of 'Fungal Fantasies'. Head up slightly R to climb the "mushrooms" on the wall just L of the scoop, move a bit L to finish.

3m L of Explorer’s Groove. Up to scoop then up R on large slightly suspect holds to large ledge. Either continue on up or head R to the DBB above Pharsalus.

Steep, easy climbing with unexpected jugs and gear. Crack 15m R of the scooped arete.

Surprisingly good climbing for this section of the wall. 5m R of Explorer’s Groove, the second seam R of EG. Up to and up seam/crack to ledge, slightly L and up head wall via FH to ledge. DBB and abseil.

A good companion to Pharsalus. 1.5m R of Pharsalus. Up to and up crack to ledge, then up steep groove to FH. Up and R past this to a 2nd FH. Up steeply to DBB.

4m R of Thapsus and 1.5m L of the big deep crack of Voyage of Discovery. Up crack finishing up arête on poor rock and protection. DBB

Crack 10m R of Explorer's Groove.

We intended to climb directly up the seam past the bolt but couldn’t do it, hopefully someone else will. A bit artificial as it stands as the more you keep using holds to the R the easier it is. Crack 2m L of Rungwalk to ledge. A seam continues up past a ring bolt. Step R and use side pulls on the arête to get started and move up to knob on next ledge [clip ring bolt before these moves]. Continue up to large ledge. Walk L from here to DBB or finish up Rungwalk DF

L of two lines 10m R of 'Voyage Of Discovery'. Up the narrow groove to an open smooth groove.

Rungwalk finishes at a ledge below a headwall. Continue up the seam over the bulge passing a ringbolt.

Sounds gorgeous. Easy line 6m R of 'Rungwalk'.

I can see them queuing for this. Cracks 9m R of 'Cesspool', 3m L of blocks.

Obvious line but doesn't appeal. Pro is a bit awkward to place but good. Start 5m L of 'Mistaken Identity'. Up to and through the break in the overhang and continue.

A good wall leads to a corner with a rounded finish and fiddly pro. The second hanging corner left of 'Epsilon Plus'. Wall into corner. Corner with dodgy protection (2 each of #3 & #4 RPs for final moves, twist the RPs if you can).

Dirty, with soft rock and sparse protection. The first hanging corner left of 'Epsilon Plus', 10m right of 'Mistaken Identity'. Easily up to corner then carefully up this to finish.

Beautiful thin face two metres right of 'The Visiting Bloke'. 4 FHs - the addition of a recent retrobolt has tamed the once dubiously protected start. Rap chain for descent.

Death on a stick! It's a shame this route is ruined by macho bullshit runouts; if the 2 bolts were replaced, and another was added between them, it would actually be worthwhile. If you really want to prove you're a hero, don't whip out the drill in the first place!

Start: Start two metres left of 'Identity Crisis', four metres right of Iron In The Soul.

Who am I? What's my purpose in life? What am I doing here? Serious climbing with poor protection and dirt. The distinctive twin seams up the centre of the face, 10m left of 'Epsilon Plus'.

Good thin face with reachy crux at first bolt. Climb 'Identity Crisis' to first ledge. Right past FH, up and right, two BRs, and finish up right around bulge and up onto slab. Belay off trad in horizontal.

A complete body workout. Enjoy! This is one of the first recorded redpoints in 'Victoria'. Guild had previously practised the climb on top-rope. Heaven knows why he returned to lead it.

Start: The obvious, extremely wide left-facing corner-crack that splits the centre of the crag.

It's imperative that you don't fall (E5, 6a?)! Still, the ethic of this route is vastly superior to the partly bolted contrived boldness of Death on a Stick or 'Diazepam' (until it got retroed).

Start: Start 5m R of 'Epsilon Plus'.

The initial corner is excellent but the second half of the climb is not so good. Beware of loose blocks at the top of the main corner. Even the obvious flake-roof should be treated with respect.

Start: The attractive corner 15m R of 'Epsilon Plus'.

Big shiny ringbolts up short arete left of 'Crossfire'. Only has about 4m of truly indepedent climbing.

A lovely orange corner leads to an exciting traverse. Slightly marred by a scrappy approach and finish.

Start: Start below orange corner R of 'Benn Gunn'.

A nice crack line which needs a bit more traffic to stay clean. While not as technically hard as 'Crossfire' the rock and protection is not as good and it makes for a hard lead.

Start: Start up 'Crossfire' to first ledge.

Steeper than it looks. Add some slings to a rack of small-medium wires and medium cams.

Start: Start a few metres L of Let X=X.

Pretty good. Sharp corner leading to roof on L side of terrace. Undercut start to corner, bridge past bracken to roof. Traverse L to large ledge. Rap.

The right wall and arete of Let X=X is not too hard but has it moments, particularly the finish which is sensational. The start of Let X=X provides the crux and requires trad gear. So a large rack doesn't have to be carried here is the trad gear used in order of use: #0.75 (green) Camalot, #0.4 (grey) Camalot, #0.5 (purple) Camalot, #3 (blue) Camalot, #0.75 (green) Camalot (extend with sling).

Start: Start as for Let X=X

Lots of interest in this climb. A long bouldering traverse just off the ground leads to a cruxy move guarding great climbing up an orange streak. It is possible to place small cams on the traversing start but they're more trouble than they're worth as you're so close to the ground - just stick clip the first bolt if you're concerned.

Start: Start about 8 metres right of the Let X=X corner and just left of the boulder on the right side of the wall.

Good thin face. The first bolt is quite high... in fact it's out of reach even with some brands of stick clip! If soloing up to the first bolt on brittle rock doesn't sound appealing, things can be kept much more sane with a small cam (eg 0.4 camalot).

Trad route with a sting in the tail. Take slings, wires and cams to #3 Friend (gold Camalot). Jugs up the right side of the wall then traverses to the central weakness. Start just right of 'Walking and Falling' being careful not to disturb the bones behind you. Climb up onto the boulder sitting at the base of the wall. Climb steep but easy rock until able to traverse left along the break to below the central seam on the wall. Climb the seam past a FH just below the top to rap anchor. Gear Beta: Crucial gear for the hard move below the final bolt is gkijv tqem (two letter shift alphabetic code- don't decode if you want the full onsight experience). When rapping be careful to keep the rope out of a thin crack where it will jam badly.

Interesting climbing on steep rock that appears fragile but holds up quite well. This supersedes a weak previous route "An Imaginary Life". Take wires, slings and cams to 2.5 Friend (Red Camalot). The current descent is to scramble around to the rap anchor for "Hop Skip and Thump" but it really needs its own rap anchor. Start about 15m R of Let X=X on the R side of a boulder at the foot of the chimney-gully, being careful not to step on Skippy's bones. Bridge between boulder and face and pull onto face (FH) and up shallow crack in face to overhang. Directly through overhang and up face (2FH) and on to top. Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman climbed the original route in March 1992. Loughran and Norm Booth did the direct version November 2007.

Takes rib/arete about 4 metres right of 'Skippy' Takes A 'Short Cut'.