A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
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Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Kieran Loughran
Campbell Gome
Joe Goding
Harsha Param
Cam McKenzie
Glen Buchanan
Philip Armstrong
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Alcuni contenuti sono stati forniti sotto licenza da: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Table of contents
- 1. Northern Cliff 46 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Northern Cliff 46 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Arrampicata trad, Arrampicata aid e Arrampicata sportiva
Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.
Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.
Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.
Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.
Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.
Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.
Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.
Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.
Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.
Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.
Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.
descrizione
The central section of this cliff has some great climbs with the quality tapering off on either side. The pundits of the early seventies played down the significance of the routes put up here by Roland Pauligk,Pete Canning and friends which says more about the personalities involved than the climbs.
limitazioni per l'accesso
Natural Values Area 14 Red Man Bluff (High Alpine)
avvicinamento
The track reaches the cliff almost at the right-hand end, between 'Free to Air' and 'Dog Breath' so the climbs are listed from right-to-left.
There is some confusion about the routes in the vicinity of where the track hits the cliff but these are mostly pretty scrappy so it's best to just keep going left to the first good climbs.
etica
Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.
Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.
===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===
For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Confessions of a Dirty Warrior
Major right-facing corner in upper part of cliff from major horizontal ledge. The abseil route on this section of cliff comes down this. Confessions of a Dirty Warrior takes the corner from major horizontal ledge. FA: David Gairns & Chris Baxter, 1995 | 16 | 20m | |||
2 |
Smoke Signals
FA: David Gairns & Chris Baxter (alt), 1995 | 17 | 55m | |||
3 |
Red Knife
Line right of pedestal 30 metres right of where the track meets the cliff. Poor protection. FA: Harley Burke & D.Delves, 1972 | 13 | 50m | |||
4 |
Space Cowboys
Start 3 metres right of 'Free To Air' Better than it looks, which might not be saying much.
FA: David Gairns & Chris Baxter. (alt), 1997 | 14 | 60m | |||
5 |
Free to Air
Start 15 metres right of where the track meets the cliff. Supposedly excellent climbing on good rock. Climb up to and up yellow, left-facing flake. Finish up right on slab. Belay at big block on right (on 'Space Cowboys'). Abseil from twin trees on right. FA: Chris Baxter & David Gairns, 1997 | 19 | 20m | |||
6 |
Dog Breath
Crack 5 metres left of where track meets cliff. | 10 | 30m | |||
7 |
Clearasil Spattered Fantasy
Not located but somewhere near 'Florentine Pogen' or 'Dog Breath' | 14 | 30m | |||
8 |
Florentine Pogen
Corner 10 metres left of where track meets cliff. May be repeat of 'Big Feather'. | 8 | 30m | |||
9 |
Big Feather
10 metres left of where the track meets the cliff. | 12 | 60m | |||
10 |
Adios Amigo
Start on a buttress 8 metres right of 'Sioux',2 metres right of a corner.
FA: Peter Woolford & Fiachra Kearney, 1997 | 22 | 65m | |||
11 |
★ Sioux
Line 32 metres right of 'Blackfoot' | 17 | 53m | |||
12 |
Blackfoot
32 metres left of Sioux' | 10 | 57m | |||
13 |
Uncertain Daze
Start: Approx 100metres right of 'Peanuts', which places it somewhere near 'Blackfoot', is a small cairn at the base of a nice crack, which takes good wires to a horizontal break at 4m. Dance between twin cracks to unlikely looking steep bulge, which is well protected (0.3+0.4 BD) and much easier than it looks on good holds. When on the Face above move left to large ledge with tree abseil. Rap approx 25m to ground from tree. FA: Josef Goding & Stephen Holloway, 2001 | 17 | 25m | |||
14 |
Mohawk
Corner-crack 8 metres left of 'Blackfoot' | 12 | 67m | |||
15 |
Foxy Fightback
Start up left edge of buttress 10 metres left of 'Mohawk'. Good moves on the first pitch. A garden at the top of the second pitch.
FA: Greg Aimer, Chris Baxter (alt) & Christina Freestone, 1993 | 17 | 55m | |||
16 |
Midori
Black crack 45 metres left of 'Mohawk' | 13 | 60m | |||
17 |
Pass the Billy, Graeme
Start at black groove 8 metres right of 'Before Columbus'.
FA: Graeme Smith, Glen Donohue & Andrew Well, 1998 | 19 | 50m | |||
18 |
Before Columbus
Line 38 metres left of 'Midori', 2 metres right of 'Geronimo', | 21 | 70m | |||
19 |
★ Geronimo
Scrubby left-facing corner crack 2 metres left of 'Before Columbus'. FFA: Glenn Tempest, Geoff Butcher & Michael Hampton, 1993 | 21 | 70m, 2 | |||
20 |
★★ Deja Vu
Start 3 metres left of 'Geronimo', 6 metres right of 'Peanuts' | 16 M4 | 65m, 2 | |||
21 |
★★ Peanuts
A classic. Varied and enjoyable first pitch. The second pitch is a little more out there. Start 6 metres left of 'Deja Vu'
FA: Andrew Thomson & Gordon Talbett, 1971 | 18 | 83m, 2 | |||
22 |
★ Hairy Canary
Corner 10 metres left of 'Peanuts' | 20 | 86m | |||
23 |
★★ Pest Strip
Crack 3 metres left of 'Hairy Canary' | 11 M5 | 86m, 2 | |||
24 |
★★ The Liquidator
Slab 3 metres left of 'Pest Strip' | 20 M5 | 79m, 2 | |||
25 |
★★ Falkenhorst
Bulging line 10 metres left of 'The Liquidator' | 24 | 83m | |||
26 |
★ Thunderball
Corner 7 metres left of 'Falkenhorst' | 10 M5 | 86m, 2 | |||
27 |
Shaken, Not Stirred
Fun steep sport Start: Starts 1m left of 'Thunderball' at corner. (This is about 5-7m left of Falkenhorst, which has an unusual reverse "S" marked in the rock at waist height). There are some old bolts at chest height between these routes which was the old bivvy. FA: Josef Goding & Achim Gross, 2008 | 23 | 23m | |||
28 |
Westward Expansion
In the nineteenth century, the incessant westward expansion of the United States incrementally compelled large numbers of Native Americans to resettle further west, often by force, almost always reluctantly Start: Steeper and harder than it looks! Starts about 4-5m right of "Yatzi" (about 100m south of 'Shaken, not stirred', which doesn't fit with 'Yatzi' being 36 metres left of 'Thunderball') below big roof, the attractive 18m high crack finishing at a steep roof with a very steep offwidth crack. FA: Josef Goding & Eric Sidharta, 2008 | 17 | 18m | |||
29 |
Yatzi
36 metres left of 'Thunderball' | 16 | 68m | |||
30 |
Cheyenne
Very short corner 8 metres left of 'Yatzi' | 21 | 72m | |||
31 |
Mountolive
Crack 50 metres left of 'Cheyenne' | 13 | 75m | |||
32 |
Fool's Paradise
Seam and left-leading ramp 6 metres left of 'Mountolive'. | 16 | 95m | |||
33 |
Apache
Start 20 metres left of 'Fools Paradise' at a name-plaque! | 12 M3 | 56m, 2 | |||
34 |
Wild Bill Hancock
Corner 18 metres left of 'Apache', 8 metres right of 'Little Big Man' | 15 | 130m | |||
35 |
Little Big Man
Start at face 8 metres left of 'Wild Bill Hancock' | 16 | 90m | |||
36 |
Quiver
Thought to be somewhere right of 'Ten Years After' or near 'Pocahontas' | 19 | 120m | |||
37 |
★★ Ten Years After
Start 28 metres left of 'Little Big Man', 15 metres right of 'The Renegade'. | 19 M4 | 110m, 2 | |||
38 | ★★ Ten Years After Eliminate | 19 | 95m | |||
39 |
★ The Renegade
Crack 15 metres left of 'Ten Years After', 25 metres right of 'The Lone Ranger' | 11 M5 | 100m, 2 | |||
40 |
★ The Lone Ranger
Slab 25 metres left of 'The Renegade', 6 metres right of 'Silver'. | 9 M4 | 110m, 2 | |||
41 |
Silver
Start at slab 6 metres left of 'The Lone Ranger'. | 9 M4 | 95m, 2 | |||
42 |
★ Tonto
Steep, initialled crack 9 metres left of 'Silver'. | 9 M3 | 79m, 2 | |||
43 |
★ Private School for Girls
Start at very shallow corner right of 'Pocahontas'. | 21 | 70m | |||
44 |
★ Pocahontas
First pitch takes one of the most prominent lines on the cliff. May be undergraded. Giant corner 60 metres left of 'Tonto'.
FA: Ian Guild & Michael Stone, 1966 | 14 | 100m | |||
45 |
Broken Arrow
Start as for 'Pocahontas'. This alternative finish looks outrageous for the grade. | 14 | 85m | |||
46 |
Lost Arrow
Buttress 23 metres left of 'Pocahontas', just right of the descent gully. | 17 | 93m |