Vie in Town Cliffs

Cairned. The black buttress which is undercut on its right side and with a smooth orange wall below an overlap; near the middle of the cliff. Step up right from easy line on left, and then up (easing significantly).

This is the loose, hollow, blocky line in the middle of the cliff.

Starts 2m right of Irate Depositors. Well worth doing. Climb the wall past a bolt, through an overhang and up the corner past a fixed wire. Continue up the flake and wall above past another bolt.

Towards the top of the descent gully at the left end of the cliff is an easy corner. A tricky layback with just sufficient protection. Climb the slabby wall then the seam just left of this. (Take a 5RP for use at half height).

About 20m left of Face Dancers, half way up the descent track is a rib sticking out from the crag. It forms a corner with an orange wall, with an oval boulder on top. Up face 2m left of corner, past a small flake and onto the “Breadknife”. Up until it joins the corner, step onto the right face, and bridge up.

Something for everyone. Climb the major yellow corner 8m down right of Space Cadets. Finish up the left arête then the groove. Pass three bolts en route.

The corner about 10-15m left of Face Dancers.

Starts on the left side of the left but- tress at a large tree. Up the wall to a ledge and over an “overlap” to some flakes which lead diagonally up left. Up the wall just right of the arête.

Starts about 12m right of Face Danc- ers just left of Cosy Corner. Gain the flake just left of the corner and follow it for 5m, move right and up the wall to the arête which is followed to the top.

The prominent corner between Sliding Dog Sandwich and the descent gully.

Climb the last crack (going right at 7m) before the boulder on the north side of the descent gully.

This climb follows the obvious stepped corner that starts 5m right of the de- scent gully. At the arête easy climbing leads to a small tree.

This must be some new meaning of the phrase “superdirect” that I am not familiar with. The shallow groove above the mid-point of the diagonal traverse. A direct start would make for an independent climb.

We all make mistakes. The arête and crack just right of White Crow. Finish on the first ledge and wonder why you bothered.

Starts about the middle of the right hand buttress at a widish crack. This is followed to a good ledge. Move left and up the arête (as led) or just right of it (as seconded, grade 16).

Short but committing layback. Scramble up to ledge with tree on the right side of the right hand buttress. Climb the distinctive thin right leaning flake above.

An attractive line with a dramatic finish which looks much harder than it is. The original write up gave the route as being 15m and only covered the top half of the climb. As there is no easy way of accessing the top half I have added a start. The route takes the right-facing, right-leaning corner in the upper half of the LH buttress. There is a gully in the middle of the LH cliff which leads up to this line. Scramble 6m up this to belay below the first steep rock. Climb cracks towards the LH side of the gully with an awkward exit to the foot of a R leading ramp. Up the ramp to the headwall. L and up to gain the corner then up this.

The RH cliff is about 60m R of Altitude Sickness. It has a steep compact central buttress bounded on the L by a corner. Start 3m L of this corner. Up loose slabby face following dirty cracks to deep crack/groove in steep headwall. Up this on suspect rock to finish up easier groove above. An unpleasant experience all round.

The corner R of THofS. Start down R and finish up a narrow chimney.

R of Camp 4 is a steep clean buttress with 2 good deep crack lines. Left crack. Above the difficulties step out L and up the short steep face. A couple of large cams around BD#4 size are useful.

The RH crack.

L arête of main slab, starting from boulder.

Link up of 'Rush' and 'Was It Worth It?'

This route has no protection at all and has probably never been led. An interesting top rope exercise the grade depending on how directly you climb it.

Start as for 'Rush'. Then left into 'Burden Of Proof'.

No chimneying required! Major L.facing chimney bounding R side of main slab.

Good crack. Up R from foot of BP to undercut crack in R wall of BP. Up this and the line above.

Exciting climbing in an excellent position up the L arête of the pillar. Climb seam 1m R of CW and go up R to arête. Straight up this, R of CW all the way.

Nice positions. From foot of big, R.facing corner on R side of pillar, go up and L to arête. Up cracks in this.

Dramatic finish. From foot of Punt Road, go up big, R.facing corner for 6 m. L in horizontal break to crack. Up, finishing steeply.

trad Major, R.facing corner bounding R side of the pillar. (Pay the Price starts up HS.)

Clean, smooth, R.leaning corner.crack on ‘back’ (E) side of Punters Pinnacle. Finish on R wall.

Variant start to 'Rush'.

Start as for 'Rush'. Blast over bulge and continue up the wall.

Start as for 'Rush'. When you arrive at the bulge, move up right diagonally until you reach above the chimney.

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Sit start and climb the wall via the discontinuous crack. A good problem.

Sit start and make a huge rockover to get the obvious crimp. Finish more easily. All about the timing and positioning.

Sit start and climb the wall via crimps and pockets. Nice moves.

A short clean face near the left hand end of the cliff. Up past 2 FHs to reach the lower offs.

Start 2m right of Capitol Gains. At the second FH move right to finish up the juggy rib. Lower offs.

There are 2 obvious deep lines on the cliff [you can see them from the carpark]. The left one.

Start 1.5m right of WOIB. Steep start then easier.

Between the two main lines there is a crack with a steep start.

The deep right hand line. Start from the lower tier.

Start halfway along the short wall at the base of the cliff right of Charny Carny. Up past a FH to the ledge. Pull through the bulge and up the face past two more FHs to lower offs.

The short corner at the left end of the outcrop has an unexpectedly tricky finish.

Start as for Time Out. At the ledge move left into the hanging crack and up.

Take the blocky line 4m right of the Naughty Corner to a ledge on the arete. Up the thin crack to the top of the block.

The northern most line. A bouldery start up past a fixed hanger. Micro cams and 2 more fixed hangers.

2.7m R of O.T.N. Straight up the line past 2 fixed hangers with micro cams along the way. Finish R of the large boulder.

A nice climb. Start 1m R of H.A.V. From the highest point of the flake pull onto the wall and up veering slightly R past a fixed hanger. Finish up the headwall r of HAV's finish. Good micro's and wires.

Another nice climb. 1.3m R of I.M below the undercut ledge. Place some good micro's above the mantle before doing it. Straight up over the mantle passing good wires, more micro's and a fixed hanger.

Stays independent. 1.5m R of U.G. (immediately R of the undercut ledge). Straight up past 2 low bolts with Micros for the rest.

The best climb on this little cliff. Start 3.3m R of U.G. below 2 horizontal cracks that are just above head height. Pull up through these past a good medium cam and clip the first hanger. Straight up the wall past another hanger with micro's and wires found along the way. NB: Grade is dependent on your height. If you are taller than 5'7" subtract a grade or 2.

Start 2m R of M.H.P. below a "diving board' at head height which in turn is below a shallow scoop. Clip the first hanger and then pull humourously onto the diving board. Clip the second hanger and pull up into the scoop. From here straight up past good small wires and micro cams. A third hanger protects the top.

Start 2m R of Mr. Siegel below a short R facing corner that stops 1m from the ground. Clip the first hanger and then boulder steeply onto the wall above the corner. Straight up passing 2 more hangers.

Takes the line following the distinctive right leading arch/overhang. Sustained and thin. The best outing on the cliff. Possibly originally aided sometime in the past.

1. 30m 19 Undercling up and out R [old peg runner]. Climb more easily up the corner above to the cave under the final arch.

2. 20m 10. Up and off R, or step L and follow diagonal up L.

RH Finish: Kelvin Longhurst, Ian Ravenscroft (alt) mid 1980s. LH Finish: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns. (alt) 13.3.89

The next line to the R. A steep layback start.

1. 25m 19. The line to the ledge with a tree.

2. 20m 9. Easy slabby wall.

The next line to the R. Dirty.

1. 25m 17. Up the line to where final thin moves lead to a bushy ledge and tree.

2. 20m Easy slabby wall to top.

The next line R is also very dirty. Good moves to start then easing. Curve R to finish at tree.

L leaning flake crack at RH end of cliff. From ledge walk off R or go up little corner above.

Below Boulder Rock is a short wall leading up to below overhangs. The crack up this wall then traverse around R to below Time Warp.

Takes the line with a steep thin start L of Time Warp. Looks much harder than 17 and unprotected.

The steep dogleg offwidth crack is quite a struggle. Take BD 3s and 4s.

1. 18m Straight up the crack, through bulges, then onto a small stance.

2. 7m Up easy rock to the top.

Easy access up the back of block. Large corner with bulges on easy terrain. Good for setting up anchors at top and for abseil/top rope access to cliff.

Good varied little climb. Crack 10m R of L end of cliff.

Start at the obvious holds and features on the steep wall 10m R of LA. Up to bulge near top then R below this to finish straight up.

Steep and bold face climbing. Pull on to the wall at the small cave 6m R of High Sally Tations and 3m L of R arête of face. Up and L past three breaks to finish as for HST. More logically start at the holds 4m R of High Sally etc then up and L as above.

Unexpectedly straightforward, this climb has uniquely featured holds. Pull up on to the undercut face 3m R of AW, on arête. Up and slightly R to ledge. Step L and climb L side of arête.

About 30m R of the LH end of cliff is a major broken corner. Up steep L leaning crack 10m R of this [rotten rock]. At top of crack traverse 3m L to small corner, up this.

Up to and up steep R.facing flake starting 1m R of Leif. Finish straight up.

Undercut, gung-ho start from beside old fairy martins’ nests (landmark) 10m R of DD, then face above, moving very slightly R. The large starting holds are decidedly suspect.

Thin crack with R leading flake heading out of it. Climb the thin crack.

The R leading flake starting as for BTIC.

Start just R of TB. Pull over bulge then climb vague rib between BTIC and TB.

Sustained and fingery face-climbing up the pair of L-leaning seams 5 m R of the major, broken corner which, in turn, is 5 m R of Travel Bug. Pronounced bulge at 5 m.

Near RH end of ledge a diagonal line leads up R under overlaps. Follow this to vertical crack [TT]. Cont. up R in thin diagonal to vertical corner, finish up this.

3m R of NVP. Up to and up short vertical crack, turn rooflet above and cont up pimply seam.

Start at steep flakes round the arête and 12m R of Throwing in the Towel (2m R of eucalypt), then L up ramp. One of the better routes of the cliff, quite varied and interesting.

At the LH end of the slabs is a clean streak. Up onto the ramp [FH], move slightly R then up the streak past 3 FH to DBB. There is a slightly harder start to the R heading straight up to the 2nd FH.

Starts 2m right of “Kitty’s Litter”. Up blank slab direct, tending left toward KL’s 3rd bolt. Finishes up “Kitty’s Litter”

The bolted line R of Kitty's Litter. Straight up the slab avoiding the loose flakes on the right past 2FH to rings.

Next bolted line right of L’Accoucher. Up past 2FH then left to rings on L'Accoucher.

22m R of Footling Precipitation. Up onto the flake then up past 3FH to a DB and rings. Lower off.

Next line of bolts to the R. Up past 3FH [the top one is shared with FS] to DB and rings.

Starts 2m left of the “Dunny Brush of Doom”. Direct up wall to tight end of the mossy ledge at around 5m. Move up steepening wall around 2m left of the of DBoDs 1st bolt. Trad gear up 1m left of past DBoDs 2nd bolt, meeting DBoD at its 3rd bolt. Can place trad in high flake and traverse left to anchor as for DBoD. Lower off 2 rings.