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Attrezzatura fissa: Another Faustian Dilemma

Carrot bolts have been removed, pending an upgrade.

Still OK to TR.

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Ha creato 18 giorni fa

Attrezzatura fissa: The Rasp/Exterminator

Old carrots have been removed, pending an upgrade.

Still OK to TR.

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Ha creato 18 giorni fa

Accesso: CLIFF STABILISATION WORKS 2024

BCC will begin more cliff stabilisation work at KP next month: June 2024.

This will mean rolling (staggered) closures of certain routes and areas, as the work progresses.

Unfortunately, a couple of high profile routes need some "tlc" and will be closed for a bit, whilst they do shotcreting work as well as pinning some rock on or near them:

SCB (18)

Anonymous (16)

Humungousaur (16)

Spidermonkey (6)

TASH (10)

The slab on the right, where Humungousaur & Spidermonkey are located, is not the target, the alcove to the left is & has been on their "to-do" list for a while now. I did a walk-through last year (2023), with BCC & their subcontractor and they need to stabilise the lose rock in that alcove, which will mean closing access to the slab right of it, and probably/maybe, the 18 to the left: Dodgy Dub, possibly Hanging Garden as well? If there were large rockfall during the stabilisation works, they would need to take precautions that any member of the public is well clear. Cést la vie.

The biggest impact will probably be the temporary closure of the stone stairs whilst they carry out stabilisation work in the alcove beneath the stone stairs. Rock pinning + shotcreting. You may have noticed the huge bags of rocks they placed there, last year (2023), as a temporary shoring-up measure.

Unfortunately, this will restrict access to the cliffs, to either via the road below or the metal stairs on the right, (below the Nursery Cliffs).

More work will be done around the arête Earth To Stella + A Quickie Before Dinner, but these routes have long been closed now, with heavy wire mesh pinned around that arête to stabilise it.

There will also be more stabilisation work done at KP North.

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Ha creato 3 giorni fa

descrizione

Start just L of the waterfall. Marked "TA".

Manky trad crack.

Storia via

1980Prima ascensione: Unknown

Top rope

Warnings

5 May 2024 Avvertimento Attrezzatura fissa: Another Faustian Dilemma
5 May 2024 Avvertimento Attrezzatura fissa: The Rasp/Exterminator
20 May 2024 Avvertimento Accesso: CLIFF STABILISATION WORKS 2024

Località

Lat/Lon: -27.47817, 153.03434

Citazione grado

16 R Grado comunitario registrato
16 Kangaroo Point
16 Kangaroo Point Climbing Guide
19 [18 - 20] ++ grAId

etica

Climbing at 'KP' has a long, rich history and the cliffs are used by a huge number of climbers of very varied styles and abilities. For these reasons ethics here are complicated. However here are some undisputed points:

  • All top roping should be done through your own quickdraws to minimize wear on the anchors.
  • Don't ever chip holds.
  • Don't paint on any new initials.
  • Retrobolting is acceptable only after consensus is reached with a large cross section of the 'KP' climbing community. New bolts that don't meet this criteria are chopped, often within a few days.
ereditato da Kangaroo Point

Stagionalità

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A
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Stagionalità

Qualità

Mega Classica
Classica
Molto buona
Buona
Media
Pessima
Orrenda

Overall quality 26 from 9 ratings.

Tipi di spunte

A vista 3
Redpoint 3
Spuntata 12
Tentata 3

Parole chiave commenti

crap easy

Selected Guidebooks more Nascondi

Autore/i: Jimmy Blackhall & David Jefferson

Data: 2021

ISBN: 9377779499658

Hidden within the ordinary people of Queensland there exists a tight-knit community of scabby knuckles, grazed knees, massive forearms and iron-clad wills. This guidebooks seeks to shed light on this community and blocks of choice with all the information, skills and knowledge to open the door for you to explore all the bouldering that Queensland has to offer.

Autore/i: Simon Carter

Data: 2018

ISBN: 9780958079068

A few years ago there was basically Frog Buttress and Coolum. Since then there has been more development than Barangaroo and South East Queensland should be on any climbers radar no matter what your style. Except ice climbing, definitely no ice climbing. But over 1250 routes with hard sport, multipitches and quality trad to make a great trip.

Alloggi in zona more Nascondi

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