Ascensioni in Kaputar

First pitch only. Pretty good, rock quality was OK. Found the belay ledge very uncomfortable.

Excellent climb with plenty of good pro and mega jugs. The first pitch is the money, but the whole thing is fantastic. Careful of rope drag on the first pitch, take plenty of long extenders.

FFA. First pitch was quite dreadful due to rock quality. Second pitch had much better rock and a goey move

I hated the start rock quality but the route grew on me, with good technical moves and increasing pump, spent about 15 minutes climbing up and down at 4 th bolt before committing and then somehow held on with lovely slab moves at end. Probably third ascent, so no chalk, and quite dirty and 4 crumbling holds I somehow stayed on

Would be classic if it wasn't Kaputar rock. Great varied climbing

Stick clip as the first two bolts are surrounded by choss.

Highest onsight yew

Again a bit dirty, but really nice climbing

Great moves

Fantastic climbing with just the right number of FHs.

Nice technical arête.

Good rock for this part of the wall, and a strong line. Best to avoid the semi hanging belay and do it as a long pitch

ended up finding this one pretty strenuous heading up the arete. got some serious left arm pump. cool moves through the middle section.

An EOD lap. Though rather dirty and untrafficked, there is some great gnarly (and somewhat desperate) arete climbing on this. I had to try quite hard for the onsight.

Actually super fun after the not great rock quality in the first 2 meters

again, very good after the initial low band of meh quality rock

still a death route

Classic slab!! quite run out near top.

nice shiny bolts and only a bit run out...

Kinda easy for the grade, but great moves and sparse bolting, if you make it to the top you don't need the wires.

Not bad, but scary rock low down. A cam below 2nd bolt useful.

Hmmm, quite a few new bolts on this now. Still great technical climbing through some weird bulges and up a slab, but the notorious danger aspect of this climb is now gone. Reasonably sustained.

A very inspiring climb. This route has it all, and yes, pro just when you need it. The first pitch is sustained and absolutely golden. The second pitch is enjoyable climbing and allows you a bit of recovery from the first. Richard just cruised up the bloody route a silly amount of years after he did the first ascent.

Despite the name, it's not very stiff for the grade.

Did this with a trail rope and double trad rack. Was trying to get into primal scream, but didn't quite work.

A solid warm-up, sparse up top but its all there.

Was a little intimidated about getting on this one but so stoked that we did. P1 - lead (clean). Best pitch I've done at Kaputar to date. Nice sporty slab to warm into the route, pro gets a little spaced above. The upper section and traverse are committing, exposed, gripping and memorable! Some damp holds at the end of the T added some extra spice. Added a cordelette to what looks like a historical collection at the first anchor. P2 and P3 - second (clean). A little bit of an anticlimax after P1. Nice lead by Caz up crack and straight through obvious goey line in buldge (which was also wet). With 60m twins Caz decided to link the last two P’s, finishing up an interesting techy little slab split by a finger crack.

A pleasant surprise. Good moves, a bit grotty down low.

Maybe I am just tired, but this line seems confused about its intent and doesn't climb well.

The crack in the middle is very nice. The start is a retro bolt of BGUTI, the finishing arête is tricky with no wear or chalk for clues

Absolutely mega first pitch! Felt a lot harder than some other 21's that I've done recently 😆 Onsighted both pitches on lead.

P1- fairly straightforward climbing to start with until you hit the stemming corner. Managed to find a hands-free rest partway through which helped manage the calf-pump. Found it pretty tricky getting myself out of the corner to reach out to the hand-crack. Much more strenuous crack moving than I have done in a while but got much nicer the higher I went. I think my brain was tired after this pitch because I rigged one of my least comfortable bays ever... P2- pretty shitty pitch but required to top out, and pretty sure I was in the correct corner system. Quite vegetated and lots of friable rock. Breaking off 4 footholds in the first 5-10m certainly did not inspire much confidence.