Mount Wellington Guide

The left of the classic Parkyn trilogy offers 15m of strenuous and technical laybacks to reach a welcome rest. The intimidating bulge above can then be climbed to the left, directly, or to the right. Good luck.

The centre line. A bouldery and strenuous start. Hope you can lock off and gaston. Try to avoid using the corner crack to the right of the initial wall (or take a 22 grade if you do). After the initial wall, either finish at the anchors of 'The Truth' or continue up the interesting but slightly lichenous wall above to the top of the buttress.

A cop out to avoid the crux of The Way. But still good climbing.

Our Lord described himself as 'The Truth, The Way and The Life'. The Parkyn trilogy features 'The Truth, The Way, and The Light'. It is unclear if Roger has just got the quote wrong, or if he is proclaiming himself as our new saviour. Either way, this punchy number will raise your spirits.

Sustained pitch with some excellent moves.

Excellent face climbing. Access by climbing Well Actually.

Access pitch for Hold That Thought

Cracks left of the Triclinicity corner, to DBB.

The clean hand crack. Either step left at the roof (grade 17) or continue direct up the crack (grade 19). Belay anchors at top.

Start: Starts at the clean RH facing corner near the foot of Avalanche Couloir

1. 35m (17) Up the corner and face to the overhang. Pass this on the L and continue up the line to a ledge at the base of a detached pillar

2. 25m (16) Climb up behind the pillar, then up the crack above. At the top traverse R to the abseil anchors at the top of Carpe Diem

Takes the prominent corner line immediately right of Chancellor Direct about 8m up the left side of Avalanche Couloir. Start in the big broken right facing corner as for Vice Chancellor or start up the short wall just right of Chancellor Direct to meet the big corner after 8m. This second option doesn't add much other than the possibility of a painful ground fall.

1. 30m. Follow the corner for 15m, traverse left and up to small square ledge. Climb the awkward crack to belay on an exposed ledge on the wall.

2. 25m. Up the clean crack above. The move off the next ledge into the crack was originally aided. At the top traverse right to the rap anchors at the top of Carpe Diem.

Starts as for Chancellor in the big right facing corner between Chancellor Direct and Carpe Diem.

1. 14m. Up Chancellor to a stance.

2. 24m. Climb to the base of the long chimney directly above. Gain the chimney directly via a 5m double crack, then continue up to the large chockstone.

3. 18m. Climb out around the chockstones and up the final corner crack.

Brilliant face climbing. A double set of small/medium wires very useful. About 10m right of CD is a recessed column. Scramble up to the base with care. Up, till you can step right onto the column proper. Follow shallow r facing corner till the gear fizzles out, then reach righ to gain hidden flake. Follow this up to gain top of column. There is a DBB a few metres up and left.

Crack to right of carpet diem with roof at 20m.

Bolted arete up and right from Cape Diem. DBB.

1a. A tasty morsel climbing the left-hand arete. Thoughtful moves past the bolts, then over the small roof, with a trad hand crack to the DBB (17m).

1b. Extra Nibbles. (17) If you want a little more trad action, climb the alternative start up the crack just around to the left of Canapes, joining the original route above the roof.

The arete directly off the walking track. Good but spaced protection.

Starts directly from the track between Bulging Buttress and University Buttress. Climb right side of arete on flakes and horizontals.

Wall climbing immediatly left of Sun Stealer.

Up black streak immediatly left of 19 Shades. Shares last bolt and DBB with that route.

Located on small buttress next to track between Bulging Buttress and University Buttress, at the base of Avalanche Couloir. Climb the right side of short black streaked wall to DBB.

2m R of '19 Shades of Grey.' Through the roofs. Head left under the roof and crank up the arete, to skip the broken hold crux

The first 10m is gear protected, the remaining is fully bolted.

A direct variant to Whatever. Start as for that route, but after the roof continue direct staying left of the arete, eventually finishing up the last couple of bolts of Whatever.

Starts at the highest point of the gully, climbing to the base of the climb is a bit precarious. Face climbing to the roof, then move right with great technical climbing up the arete using oddly angled flakes.

The second pitch is a Pipes classic. Steep, featured, and pumpy.

1. 15m (18) 5 bolts. Follow U bolts to large sloping ledge and DBB. Likely a sandbag at 18, but interesting and well bolted.

2. 15m (22) 7 bolts. The main attraction. Follow the black streak and gently overhanging arete. Pumpy, safe, and technically interesting.

There is a lower-off at the top of the 2nd pitch. With a 60m rope and care, the belayer can lower the climber to the ground, then abseil to the ground using the climber as a counterweight.

Climbs the steep thin crack-line about 6 m R of Heat Pump. DBB lower-off.

Line of bolts right of Heat Pump. Climb P1 of Heat Pump to access ledge. Follow the corner to a ledge, then continue up face and arete on some sharp holds

Climb the slab, trending left of the prow to a lightly overhanging hand crack. Follow this up and over several spears of rock to a ledge (a belay can be set-up here to split the route into two pitches). From here, head to the crack on the left and follow it up and to the right, stepping right around the corner when it ends to DBB and rap-station.

Cracked face just to the right of the prow, 2m left of the tree. Great if you are a percussionist. For the rest of us, however, the tone emitted by tapping the flakes on this route is a tad scary (but the gear is good). Finishes with double bolt belay at the Black Magic step.

Poorly protected Climbs the obvious corner, grovel through the mossy overhang section, finish up the dirty chimney, Bolted loweroff

1. A roaming line starting up face reaching between horizontal breaks to small roof. Traverse R under roof and up to small ledge.

2. Up broken corner crack to top of initial column, head up and R to bolt belay. (combining first two pitches is definitely possible)

3. Diagonally L to another bolted belay and rap station.

The leftmost climb, short and sweet with steep climbing on good rock. Walk back after top out to rap station.

On the wide wall, 2m right of The Bentwood. Starting low to the left, climb the left hand side of the wall. Finally move right at the top to DBB.

Climbs the right hand side of the wide wall to DBB. Good protection in horizontal cracks.

Crack immediately right of the large wall. Fun climb with abundant options for protection. Good for someone learning to lead. Recommend rap from top, lowering will drag rope.

Bolted line 3m right of Jon's Crack. Fun climbing on solid rock. Move straight up the rounded arete to DBB found 2m back from climb. DBB is up quite high on uneven ground, take care.

Bolted line, close to the "waterfall". Shares DBB with Sleeping Dogs.

On the right hand side of the gully. Great moves with a spicy crux.

chimney left of FTA

The obvious crack system on the south face of the first buttress, clearly visible from the track.

ACCESS: Either scramble up 60m of vegetated ledges OR (Much better) climb Sleeping Dogs at Summertime Buttress then scramble up and left to the base of the butress.

Start at the base of the buttress and climb up to the left of the prow. Move onto the left face and up the sustained, flared cracks to belay on a ledge just below the top of the buttress. Tape abseil to descend.

A sustained route following the prominent corners on the north side of the first buttress, clearly visible from the Organ Pipes Track.

Climb with difficulty into a shallow scoop using insecure small wires for protection (a peg was used here originally). Continue through a bulge using layaway holds to one more queasy experience, a sloping jug. Continue up to belay at a ledge.

the crack right of ITF

No natural gear required. Access from the top of the mountain is probably easiest.

1. 20m 25 Start 5m up the gully left of Cornered and Wootang, with belay bolts on left. Climb the face and arête to a ledge and DBB (as for Cornered).

2. 25m 19 Step right from the belay and ascend the blocky corner/arête system past many FH and the final U-bolt of Wootang. Either belay at the Wootang DBB and descend by abseil from here, or continue past another FH to the ledge above with the top DBB.

Start approximately 5m left of Wootang. Climb the thin crack line just right of the arête, protected by small to mid-sized cams (some people think these small cams are quite dodgy), then continue up the shallow corner above past 3 FH to a DBB at the ledge. A. Williams, early 2005.

A dedication to Lois Scarr. Start on the right-hand side of the wide face above the ledge at a DBB. Layaways on the face for the first 10m (crux) lead to a small ledge, continue up the face above to a DBB on the ledge at 35m. A short pitch (18) past one FH provides access to the top DBB if required. A. Williams, Oct 2002.

The line of bolts to the left of The Colour of Magic. Scramble up the large corner then step right to gain the second bolt. Climb the shallow corner then move right into the thin layaway seam, following this to tricky topout.

The crack climb to the niche, then awkward and thoughtful climbing to the top.

The crack 2m right from Turkey Slap. Start in the crack with stemming options, through the leftwards jag, then to the top of Turkey slap pinnacle. Extend the DBB from Turkey Slap or easily continue to the top.

Starts just uphill of the pinnacle in an offwidth crack. Climb three offwidth sections to belay in base of chimney. Scramble out.

Alternative to the first two pitches of Moonraker. Pitch 1: Climb the crag for 10m, traverse right in the horizontal break to the cave and keep going as for Moonraker Pitch 2: Follow original variant until below the chimney, then step right to a small ledge and continue with the steep crack until you reach the original line again. Pitch 3: to rap station as for Moonraker

Nice line, take a #4 and #5.

The bolted line 3m to the right of Lone Stranger p1.

1. 21m 18 9Þ

2. 35m 24 10Þ

A less vegetated variant for Melancholy Mania. Takes the rib if rock to the L of the second pitch of Melancholy Mania. Scramble around from Suicide Sadness to avoid the first pitch of the above climb and belay at the base of the chimney. Climb up cracks and shallow corner past rooflet and blocky sections up the belay for Melancholy Mania.

1. 8m 12 Up to ledge, belay from behind trees. Small pitch to reduce rope drag.

2. 26m 17 Belay slightly right of small roof, pull up bulge to ledge.

3. 26m 16 At top traverse 2m right to Suicide Sadness rap station.

Pitch 2+3 can be combined.

Black streaked buttress, up and left from Slow Combustion. Awesomly sustained and balancy face climbing, to a DBB. Well protected if you have doubles of micro cams.

Climbs pillar between Clouds of Obsession & Slow Combustion. Excellent climbing, let down somewhat by a hard first 5m, and scrubby last 5m. Good protection. At top of pillar, traverse 4m to rap of Clouds of Obsession chain (25m).

Start a few meters after the big step in the access ramp at the right-hand end of the Suicide Sadness area.

1. Up a shallow left facing corner following a line that passes an overhang on the left. Climb the hand crack above the overhang, at the end of the hand crack step out to the right onto the face. Follow a thin crack up the face to a belay ledge.

2. Continue up the crack as it widens and eventually enter into an easy chimney. Climb the chimney and exit on the right onto a big ledge.

50m abseil from the bolted anchor on the right end of the ledge to the start of the climb.

Starts 1.5m Right of Slow Combustion. Traverse left for 2m below dark roof to rejoin Slow Combustion.

Three pitch sport route starting 10m up the ramp from BM.

1. 20 - bouldery start which eases off to grade 18/19 climbing to DBB.

2. 21 - Up turrent, then delicatly back left passing 7 bolts to DBB.

3. 21/22 - Up black streak left of the belay, passing 9 bolts, to another DBB.

A must do if you are in this area of the Pipes. Trad with DBB anchor stations at the top of both pitches.

second pitch alternative to Blue Meridian or Fine Time

About 20m left of Kabling is a short inset wall.

1. 7m 14 - Climb centre of wall to belay on good ledge.

2. 33m 20 - A bold and testing pitch weaving up the weaknesses on the buttress above the right side of the ledge. Climb right side of buttress to traverse line. Move left to rooflet, then powerfully up to welcome rest. Follow the line up the left arete to the big roof, then move spectacularly right to ledge below final corner. Belay at tree at base of Janzoon.

Precarious and pumpy climbing. Start on the ledge as for Skyfall (can be accessed via the short bolted wall, or by scrambling up the vegetated corner to gain right side of ledge). Climb several metres right of Skyfall, blasting up up the seam and through the large roof passing the DBB of Solace to the rest ledge. From the ledge, clip the bolt up and left on the hanging arete, then commit to moving up and left (crux) above the void. Balance up arete to a DBB

as for QoS; stop at DBB after roof

3m left of Kabling is a right facing corner. Up this then slightly left to top of yellow fin. Fiddle in some gear and climb the short crux wall, to a belay on the main ramp.

On the lower tier, 15m left of where the track meets the tier, is a compact black streaked wall leading to a featured roof. Excellent face climbing past a FH to a ledge. Up corner above before moving right and through the big roof, then the face and arete above to DBB. Scramble a further 10m to the base of G Pillar. Micro cams important.

Exciting moments to be had on the prominent hanging pillar R of Centurion. Bridge the offwidth corner 5m R of Centurion for 8m to a small roof. Traverse R under this onto the face of the column. Climb the finger crack past a problematic niche, surmount the large flake above, and continue more easily to the top.

Climbs a pillar located about 10m right of where the access path to Blue Meridian turns steeply left. Fully bolted, however a finger sized cam may help add confidence for the slopey top-out.

Starts at Phil's Crack just around right and up the gully from the start of Shrapnel. Ends by topping out on the Arena.

Below Battle Cruiser ledge. Bolted route slightly uphill left & around the corner from "The Three Stooges."

Obvious bolted face below Battle Cruiser ledge, located up side track between Great Tier & Central Buttress access. Mantle near top & across some loose ground to rap station.

20m R of The Three Stooges up secondary track. Tricky start then up arete.

A stellar route, made awkward by its access. Best to do a route (Battlecruiser etc) that abseils down the Linda Chimney (or just climb the chimney). Either way your heading to the large ledge 10m up and left from the Abseil point 25m up the chimney (at the chockstone).

1. 10m 18 - Step nervously down, left, and onto the south face. Your faith will be rewarded with good gear,and a flake leading to a large ledge.

2. 30m 20 - The crux arrives early up the hand crack, before more varied terrain is reached. Heaps of gear and great exposure make this a classic pitch.

Pitch 1: Ground level to obvious large chockstone (rap anchors present) Pitch 2: Up chimney and belay at base of huge corner Pitch 3: 3 variants - Direct (18) - Left of huge corner which becomes offwidth Chimney (15): Climb R wall for 5m, thenstep R up to ledge and finish up chimney

The small buttress to the left of the Linda chimney, capped by overhangs. Belay at far left end of Battlecruiser Ledge. Step left across Linda chimney and follow 6 U bolts up wall and blind corner capped by overhangs to double U belay on small ledge above.

The arete left of Battle Cruiser.

1. 28m 20 Start at small ledge 4m left of Battle Cruiser. Step left and follow thin groove with small gear just right of arete to Battle Cruiser belay.

2. 46m 22 Step around left side of arete and follow thin cracks to the top.

An alternative 2nd pitch to Starship Trooper and Battle Cruiser – start from the belay ledge shared by both routes at the top of their first pitches. Climb directly above the belay into a small left-facing corner to the right of the arête. Layback the flake above to a spectacular rest below a small overhang. Move straight up the arete, or slightly easier, step right and climb straight up a short wall (crux) to join Battle Cruiser at the diagonal trending flake. Continue up the rest of Battle Cruiser to the rap station.

Both pitches are awesome.

Start: Shares the same start as Twice.

1. 28m (19) Climb the black streaked corner to the roof, continue through it via the LH line (crux) and up the thin crack to ledge belay L of the base of the Twice corner.

2. 46m (18) Follow the corner of Twice for 6m to a steep diagonal flake system leading out L towards the arête. Layaway and bridge the airy flake system until it eases. Continue up R of the arête to reach U-bolt rap station. Rap down to huge Linda chock stone (50m) Another rap station accesses the LH end of 'Battle Cruiser' Ledge (25m).

1. Start up Battle Cruiser for 2m, and traverse up and right to belay near Faust.

2. Step back left to belay at base of corner. Can combine with P1.

3. Up the corner through overhangs.

A direct version of Twice. Start 2m right of Battle Cruiser. Follow thin cracks up and through roof to belay at BC ledge. Continue up the corner of Twice.

Alternative start to Faust which avoids some inital chimneying but involves some alarming flakes. Start up flakes 2m L of chimney and continue directly up the wall, eventually stepping right into Faust at the Hakea. Continue up Faust from here.

The thin line between Faust and Twice, up the thin seam through two overlaps. Looks bold.

The big left-facing chimney.

1. 52m 16 Up the chimney past hakea and overhang to ledge on right, then up wide crack (#4 camalot useful) to next ledge. This pitch can easily be split in two

2. 25m 16 Up to next ledge then continue up corner to top. Descend trench to left and then rap off as per Battle Cruiser

The line up the face and arête between Faust and Spartan Ethics. There is a thin and balancy crux between the 2nd and 3rd bolts, and another tricky move at the roof, the rest is about 20.

Steep start then keep following the U's

Sustained and consistent. An inverted small L-shaped roof/flake marks the start of this route.

1. 30m Climb a shallow corner to the small roof at 5m, which is turned on the L. Ascend a series of walls up and R to a ledge.

2. 35m Climb onto the block on the L and then up a thin crack to a small tree. Step back R and jam the crack to the top, belaying at some blocks near the Faust corner.

3. 35m Continue up the line of shallow corners on the upper wall R of Faust to a small ledge. Head up and L over a bulge into a hanging corner and continue to the top. Descend by first climbing up the short rock step behind where the route finishes, and then heading L and down a vegetated ramp with some down climbing sections, circling around to the Battle Cruise rap station from above. If you find yourself bridging up a tree, you're on the wrong path.

Up the corner from the natural belay bench. Challenging, sustained, airy climbing with good gear.

1. 48m (16) Follow the crack to the first belay ledge, 10m below the roof.

2. 32m (18) Jam through the roof to a ledge and continue up the finger crack and above to an easier finish.

Rap from DBB anchors (2 raps).

Start 3m right of Third Bird

1. Climb the hand cracks on the wall several metres right of Third Bird, with some interesting moves through the niche above, to a belay on a scrubby ledge at single U-bolt.

2. Move left and climb the shallow corners and flakes just right of Third Bird, to belay at the rap anchors on the ledge below the overhang.

3. Move back right and continue up the wide cracks above to the top, taking care not to stray onto Third Bird. Descent: abseil as for Third Bird, or traverse left and down the scrubby corner/gully to the Battle Cruiser rap anchors.

An average first pitch is a necessary task to access the excellent, airy arete of pitch 2.

1. 45m 18 The crack roughly 25m right of Third Bird. Continue through ledges and vegetation (delightful!) for 20m to belay at the base of prominent arete on LH side.

2. 52m 20 Up the face just left of arete for 20m, then step R to stance on small ledge. Continue following arete on RH side to belay at large Hakea at the top.

3. 10m A scramble up and right to access Acid Test rap station. Descent: 40m to double U bolt belay on Acid Test (hidden just left of Hakea), then 55m to ground.

Climbs up the hand crack directly above the bolts at the top of pitch 2 of Acid Test.

Located 2m R of the Butt Funky fist crack, 2m L of a deep chimney.

1. 30m (18) Climb up the crack and wall to a hakea tree, then from the block behind the tree climb the steep crack/flake then up R on easier ground to a double U-bolt belay.

2. 2a. 40m (19) Climb up and then R onto the buttress and follow the weakness directly up the middle of the face (well protected) to a U-bolt belay. 2b. 15m (19) Alternatively, step across R directly from belay, over the top of the chimney, and climb steep but interesting thin crack up the arête, staying out of the chimney to the R. From a ledge at 10m either move L into Acid Test or make a difficult move up and R to the U-bolt belay on Heat (45m rap to bottom).

3. 40m (20) Up the crack on the R to the buttress above. Follow a thin line up the buttress until one can step L around the arête to a 6m long crack. At the top of this move back R and climb the excellent face above to a large ledge.

4. 5m Up the wall above to a rap station. Three rap stations provide safe descent. The final station is directly on the wall below the start of pitch 2 and is out of view until virtually on top of it.

The line of bolts just right of Acid Test. Take a few mid-size cams for 15m of easy scrambling at the top of the third pitch to get to the start of the final pitch. All belays are spacious ledges with DBBs.

1. 18m 21 Straight up the face. Cruxy.

2. 28m 21 Step right off ledge and follow black streak up face, eventually moving to left side of pillar.

3. 32m 20 Climb up arete to large ledge, ignore DBB for Acid Test (on left) and continue scrambling for a further 15m to base of bolted arete.

4. 25m 21 Straight up the arete.

The line of FH right of Heat. Nice, pumpy climbing on some sharp rock.

The line of bolts 5m left of Rememberance and Roast Chicken

Well conceived line up a sharp arete.

1. 15m (21). Steep climbing past 7 bolts to DBB.

2. 30m (21). Up, then tricky move left to gain sharp arete. Focus, slapping, and footwork will see you at the DBB at the top of this excellent pitch. 13 bolts.

A fun little sport climb starting 5m R of Remembrance and climbing to the same anchor. Climb up and into shallow R facing corner, continue up to steep bulge. Jugs lead to good side-pulls on the face above. Step back L to lower-off.

Trickier if you are short. However is defo 25.

MIxed route left of Kacktus. Climb loose chimney on natural gear until top of pinnacle is reached. Step onto the right wall and follow fully bolted wall to ledge and DBB. There is a short extention to a second DBB.

Up manky chimney then orange face Access left of Drama Queen and Princess on flange buttress

1. 20m

2. 10m

1. 20m

2. 10m

1. 42m

2. 13m

1. 42m

2. 13m

Classy face climbing on the lowest tier of Circus Wall. Can be accessed by climbing the first 3 pitches of Heat and then scrambling across scrubby ledge.

1. 26m

2. 22m

3. 12m

Nice arete with the crux at the top

1. 15m

2. 40m

Contrived but good!

Face/arete left of princess. Starts up a crack. Only to top half is bolted.

On the face to the right of Drama Queen.

Climb RH crack for 7 m, then move into LH crack and up to below a bush. Traverse L and onto arete to Nefarious anchor.

Start: Crack to the right of bolted arete (Nefarious 22)

A serious but rewarding single pitch route up the wall to the left of the obvious chimney ("Bert's Fear"). The first half of the route follows the line of least resistance up, trending leftwards, to the obvious large jug on the arete. The climbing on this section is sustained face climbing, with care needed to be taken with some loose rock to be avoided, and some devious gear placements to be found. Small wires very important. From the jug on the arete, the climbing is easier, following a series of short blockly corners up and trending back right to a ledge with two small trees and a cluster of fixed tat. From this tat, a single 60m rope will get you back to the deck (although you're probably better of leading the route on double ropes).

Contentious, original done as a trad route the unknowingly bolted a week later. Climbs the line left of the bolts, it is possible to go right of the bolt at the roof at grade 23.

Climb the wall left of "Bert's Fear", starting at the base of the "Bert's Fear" chimney. There is thin crux at the second U and then a pumpy hike to the top (all sport).

Starts 16m downhill of Fiddlesticks at the obvious body chimney in a shallow corner.

From the belay at the top of Brown Madonna, wander up rock face on the left and continue straight up hand cracks to the left of the chimney. Traverse right at top to Bert's Fear DBB

Sporty route between CSTS and P. Can be done as a second pitch to P, or a single pitch starting as for CSTS and using the DBB for that route to descend. Bring a light rack for the start and the finish

Originally a short, bold, route connecting the Fiddlesicks ledge to the 1st belay of Precarious. A retro-bolt or two (as part of the logical arete line CSTS) have tamed the route, which is now normally done as part of AT or CSTS.

Mostly sport route up the prominent arete left of Fiddlesticks. Start at the base of Fiddlesticks, and move left to arete (wire and small cam) to gain line of u-bolts. Balancy arete climbing on great rock. You'll probably place another wire & small cam up high before gaining a DBB.

Starting at a prominent corner with twin cracks.

1. 35m. Up the corner to belay at tree or notch.

2. 30m. Continue up the main crack-line above small tree to the big ledge on top of the buttress.

Continue as for "Bert's Fear" (45m) up the ridge or rap down your choice of three anchors right from ledge - Brown Madonna / Pleasant Screams.

Best done as one pitch however, the easier first pitch to this ultra classic is an excellent route in its own right.

1. 25m (22). Straight up the face just R of Fiddlesticks. A crimpy crux to get off the ground, then flow up the rest with pleasant moves.

2. 25m (25). Continue up the line of bolts to the anchors. Crux is just past the third bolt.

Follow the finger crack to the right of Neon God. Continue until a solid stance 2/3rds of the way up, resist the urge to move towards the Neon god bolts and head right up the small corner. Traverse left to clip once level with the anchors of of Neon God (pitch one).

This route now has a direct start and finishes called 'The Directors Cut' 21

Start: Crack system to the L, around arete of Brown Madonna.

1. 26m (18) Crack to corner

2. 36m (18) Crack to 1 m below bush, then traversee L to arete and up.

Absolute classic. Up the arête to the left of Brown Madonna. Consistent, exposed, technical moves. Double ropes can reduce drag, but aren't mandatory.

Start at the bottom of the face moving towards the R arête after 10 m and back L to a hanging belay.

The second pitch was climbed at 27 by moving into Brown Madonna at 2/3 height. Nowadays rarely done as Pleasant Screams Direct is a significantly better option.

One of the best climbs on the pipes.

Climb Pleasant Screams to just below the midway anchor then follow the line of bolts to the top in one mega pitch.

Avoid moving into After Midnight and Brown Madonna, not as contrived as it sounds.

Avoids the chimney at the bottom.

Climb the chimney 1m right of Brown Madonna to the hanging flake on the left where you can move back left into that route.

The tall overhanging column to the right of Brown Madonna, 60m single pitch route, sustained arete climbing as good as it gets. Take a no.1 camalot to avoid a runout at about 3/4 height. 19 quickdraws plus rap chains