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I had always heard this was a bit of a testpiece, but apart from one move, I think it's actually easier than Sandy Bay Road. Still, it is a nice climb.
Only needed 2x5BD, 1x4, 1x0.75, 1x0.5 and a large nut. Could eat up plenty more mid-sized cams in the easy stuff after the crux move, but not really needed.
Lead the first pitch which was a bit damp and vegetated. Fell seconding the offwidth start to the second pitch. Second pitch follows a really cool (although a little unnerving) feature.
A forgotten classic! Led last pitch. Wouldn’t recommend the first pitch as it’s a bit dirty and vegetated, though the climbing is still good. Crux is definitely uncompromising as the guide suggests, but I wouldn’t say brutal. The rest is excellent grade 17 crack and face climbing up a really unique and interesting feature. Will do again. Rapping in from the top with a 60 m fixed line is the go for access. Flash as we rapped down the line.
Beastly. Pitch two only. Thrashed my way through the crux thanks to pure reptilian desperation rather than technique. The thin flake above is somewhat disturbing.
- con
Darren
