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Vie in North Face

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Grado Via Stile equipaggiamento Popolarità
16 X Desecration

A fairly sustained climb of good length (940 feet). the rock is very good apart from the first two pitches, but the runners are few and far between.

NOTE: This route was originally measured in feet, take lengths in metres with some salt.

Start: In middle of main north face, left of yellow overhang, D on rock.

  1. 35m (11) Up 25 feet [7m] to tree, traverse right 40 feet [12m] to larger tree, up right to small ledge and peg belay (left in).

  2. 20m (5) Tend right up dirty corner to large blocks and platform, cracker belay.

  3. 30m (8) Left around corner into chimney, up chimney, exit right to block belay.

  4. 40m (11) Up right to smooth slab, traverse right then bridge up steep corner and tend left on beautiful rock to bush belay.

  5. 35m (16) Over easy rock for 30 feet (10m) to base of wall, straight up on small holds to blank wall, strenuous move up using peg for direct aid, now climb straight up until level with tree on right, then desperate traverse right to ledge.

  6. 25m (14) Straight up for 40 feet (12m) then hard traverse left to little gum tree on small ledge, peg belay.

  7. 40m (12) Down 15 feet (5m), traverse left for 20 feet (5m), now straight up slabs and small walls to tree belay on 2nd veranda.

  8. 20m (5) Up terraced slabs, short layback tending left below block and tree belay.

  9. 35m (9) Right and up to corner, tricky move then straight up over easier rock to tree belay. Scramble up 50 feet to the summit

FA: Rick White & Chris Meadows, 1968

Trad 280m, 9
11 Acheron

FA: Dennis Stocks, Bob Fick & Judy Freeman, 1966

Trad 250m
10 Penal Pleasure

An easy two pitch at the left end of the main face to the first verandah.

  1. -m (10) Up a groove to ledge and good tree belay.

  2. -m (10) Left and up groove to tree belay on first terrace.

Trad 2

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