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1 - 100 di 322 vie.

Grado Via Stile equipaggiamento Popolarità
Watagans Dora Pinnacles Main Pinnacles
20 ?????
Sconosciuto 22m
20 Swinging Monkey Slap
Sconosciuto 10m
Watagans Dora Pinnacles Dark Side
20 Annie’s

Climbs the slab between Noel’s Masterpiece and the corner of Pee Wee’s slab. Good rock but a no gear... so solo or toprope.

FA: David Gray & solo, 1983

Trad 25m
Watagans Secret Area
20 Flying Orchid

Tough slab climbing just left of the arete and 5m right of the corner.

Sportiva 22m
Watagans Monkey Face Turkey Walls
20 A Void

Crank the wall left of Joe's Climb past 2 bolts to the roof then traverse left to follow a crack to the top

FA: David Gray & John Wilde, 1986

Trad mista 18m, 2
Watagans Monkey Face Smear Slabs
20 Smear to Oblivion

The water worn runnel past 3 bolts, being careful to the first. Exit left to Ring and chain belay

FFA: Dave Gray, John Wilde, Robert Stow, Dan Rogers & Jenny Anderson, 1983

Sportiva 15m, 3
Watagans Monkey Face The Ramparts
20 Copy Cat

Straight up the orange and black striped wall right of A. Avoid bridging into that route for full value. Plug hand sized cams into the diagonal then up overhung wall As for Plagiarism variant To finish at DBB

FA: Vanessa Wills & David Gray, Mag 2020

Trad mista 15m, 3
Watagans Monkey Face Lower Crag
20 From Here to Eternity

The obvious steep crack, 2m right of Escape Corner past several welcome holes. Gear from C3s for the thin crack, bomber wires in the pods (gear to #0.75)

FA: 15M1, Rob Wallace & David Gray, 1980

FFA: David Gray & Dan Rogers, 1983

Trad 10m
20 So

Follow the shattered crack above the sentry box, past a ring to lower off.

FA: TopRope, Paul Smith & Bruce Donaldson, 1981

FFA: David Gray, 1982

Trad mista 12m, 1
Watagans Monkey Face Middle Crag
20 Plum line

Start just left of CAY directly up wall to get grade. Easier if crack is used

FA: G Fieg

Trad mista 10m, 3
20 Jonas' arete

Start as for CAC but go straight up via flakes to tricky finish and DBB. Optional cam at start, or stick clip. The route originally mantled through the conglomerate band to finish, new anchors placed below this which suits a right variant finish.

FA: Jonas, 2003

Sportiva 12m, 5
20 Double Blank

The right hand route up the slab. Carefully up to the bolt, then directly to DUBB.

FA: John Wilde, Dan Rogers, Robert Stow & David Gray, 1983

Trad mista 9m, 1
20 Krypton Factor

Supersedes 'Cryptic Crossing' by climbing the narrow wall between Kryptos and I'd Rather be Canoeing, past a bolt, to finish on the arete. One RB and a #4 cam is the only gear.

FA: John Wilde

Trad mista 15m, 1
20 Colour Card

Climb straight up the centre of the face, passing horizontal pods for gear up to two ring bolts. Finish directly up with difficulty. Originally graded 20 but crux holds have eroded from edges to slopers so its more like a 21.

FA: David Gray & John Wilde, 1983

Trad mista 16m, 2
20 Asparagus

Climb the Marmalade crack, then continue up the arete above, past 2 RBs to mantle finish and DBB

FA: David Gray & Dan Rogers, 1985

Trad mista 14m, 2
Watagans Monkey Face The Wild West
20 Hiss-tory

The arête 2m right of P&S. 3RB and #0.75and 0.5 cams in horizontal break to protect mantle after second bolt

Trad mista 15m, 3
Watagans Monkey Face The Ridge
20 Elves on Shelves

Straight up centre of buttress to DBB

FA: Vanessa Wills & David Gray, Dic 2018

Sportiva 12m, 4
Watagans Monkey Face South Face
20 War is Peace

5RB, DUBB. Start overhung flake then join 'Ignorance Is Strength' at 4th RB.

FA: V Wills, 2004

Sportiva 15m, 5
20 Ignorance Is Strength

4RB, DUBB. Up at small cave.

FA: V Wills, 2004

Sportiva 13m, 4
20 Freedom is Slavery

FA: V Wills, 2004

Sportiva 14m
Watagans Ancient Remnants Orchid Pinnacle
20 Bullet

Climb the pocketed NW arete to an exit crack.

FA: David Gray & Darrin Gray, 1991

Sportiva 12m, 3
Watagans Ancient Remnants Main Wall
20 Stardust Variant

A way to the anchors for short people that isn’t a V5 compression problem, after the slab on the major ledge go left and up chimney feature to gain the crawl space that takes you back right to anchors

Sportiva 15m
Watagans Ancient Remnants McMatch n Climb
20 Pebbles
Sportiva 11m
Watagans Barniers Rd Lower Wall
20 Spank That Pussy
Sconosciuto 18m
Watagans Gate Crag Central Buttress
20 Titania

Start at the flake, being careful of the ironing board. Essentially a variant start to AMND but with good new climbing. Anchors above small roof. The climb will feel easier if you are taller, especially the finish.

FA: Vanessa Wills & David Gray, Set 2016

Sportiva 18m, 9
Watagans Gate Crag Little Cobbler
20 Lava
Sportiva 7m
Watagans Gate Crag Walls of 2000
20 VB for me

The south facing wall right of the chimney past 3 RBs to top out to shared anchors

FA: Leon

Sportiva 12m, 3
Watagans Rope Rd The Main Line
20 Xanthorrhoea

The middle crack of the wall. Twin cracks to grass tree at half height then offwidth to shared anchors with Crumpet Crack. Big bro or # 9 cam needed for the offwidth crux (can be top-roped from the Crumpet Crack anchors)

Trad 18m
20 The Big Swing

The obvious large roof crack, right of the "Key Hole". An impressive on-sight first ascent.

FA: John Wilde & Daniel Danuser, 1989

Trad 30m
Watagans Mt Sugarloaf The Giant's Head
V2 Earworm

Sit start. Using the jugs inside the 'cave' work your body into the cave and up.

FA: Philly T

Boulder 2m
V2 Cheeky cheek

Between 'picking the nose' and 'earworm'. Standing start using small ridges.

FA: Philly T

Boulder 2m
Port Stephens Iris Moore Park
20 - 22 First Buttress 1a

Commence at base of slab. Straight up the blunt arete split by a thin crack with increasing difficulty.

Corda dall'alto 14m
20 Bicycle graveyard

The crack with the undercut start. Boulder in from right. Rock a little friable in crack, and tends to seep. Straight up crack, veering left and then back at top. Can be led on bolts from 'Petes route' which heads right, and cams at top, but has DBB straight above for easy Top rope.

Tracciata: Pete Morris

Sportiva 17m
20 Cracked Monkey

Essentially the easier mix-tape variant of Cracked It and Cocky Monkey. Start left up the corner to stepped arete left of CM, continuing up the corner crack once past the roof. Good as a toprope off the hex bolt anchor.

Corda dall'alto 18m
20 Cocky Monkey

Follow U bolts just to right of trad climb up slightly overhung wall. Bolts spaced so be careful off ledge.

FA: Peter Morris, 2004

Sportiva 18m, 5
20 5

Up to ledge then up face - many variants, difficulty increases away from corner

Corda dall'alto 16m
Port Stephens Fisherman's Bay
20 Shipwrecked

FA: Tim Haasnoot, 2009

Deep water solo 25m
20 Water Hammer Crack

The awesome hand sized crack between the main land and the island. A little sharp.

FA: Jason Piper, 2009

Deep water solo 6m
20 Dunk Arete

FA: Jason Piper

Deep water solo 5m
V1 NOSD

Head left off the Emergency Exit ledge and up the centre of the face. Holds abound.

FA: Jack Folkes, 14 Nov 2020

Deep water solo 6m
Port Stephens Pacific Street Boulders
V1 Diaganelly

1m right of CU in the corner. Starting on diagonal crack, no using the obvious ledge for feet, fun moves in corner to top.

FA: Fiona Smith & Joey Smith, 28 Mar 2021

Boulder 3m
V2 Don't Flake Out

The face to the right of Diaganelly. Start near the corner and move up to the right, beware of flaky holds around the first move, all holds okay to the top after that.

FA: Joey Smith, 28 Mar 2021

Boulder 4m
V2 Moss Butt

The corner to the right of SS. Nice start setup for hands and feet. Pocket/edge on the right and compress with left, bring right foot up and go for the top.

No using comfortable edge to the right.

FA: Fiona Smith & Joey Smith, 28 Mar 2021

Boulder 3m
V1 More Like Vee Fun

1m right of MB. Using same pocket as for MB but to the right of it. Up to the comfortable ledges, moving right to top out. A little exposure near the top for those starting out due to fall zone.

FA: Joey Smith & Fiona Smith, 28 Mar 2021

Boulder 3m
V1 Ho Ho Ho

The deep corner chimney to the right of SCA. Fun, easy wedge moves to shimmy your way up and out.

FA: Joey Smith, 28 Mar 2021

Boulder 4m
Port Stephens Kingsley Beach Kingsley ampitheatre Black wall
20 Valentine

Start where platform drops a metre heading left and up flake

Corda dall'alto 5m
20 Gazelle

Finger crack just right of open book corner

Corda dall'alto 5m
V1 Kingsman

Overhanging corner at right end of wall just left of down climb

Boulder 4m
Port Stephens Kingsley Beach Kingsley main
V1 Prince Harry

Crack in the middle of left wall

Boulder 5m
V1 Kate Middleton

Traverse the left wall

Boulder 8m
V2 Prince Charles

Step off the ledge then straight up left of the prominent crack.

Boulder 5m
V1 Chimrack

The corner chimney

Boulder 6m
V1 Full A Crack

Rightward trending crack to finish in the easy groove.

FA: Tim Haasnoot

Boulder
V2 Vain Face

Thin face using pocket out right,

Boulder
V1 Crab Trap

Start in the deep chasm, often full of crabs!

Boulder
V2 Slab Pill

Squeeze the block to a committing finish.

Boulder 4m
V2 Where's My Lifeguard

Solid flakes up the right of the arete.

Boulder 4m
V1 The Thin Red Line

Up the red streak in the rock.

Boulder 4m
V1 Resin Erection

At the weird rock, through the flake systems.

Boulder 4m
Port Stephens Kingsley Beach Kingsley east
V1 Egciting

Up face right of arete

Boulder 3m
V2 Eggcelent
Boulder 3m
V1 Eggstatic

Closed book corner

Boulder 3m
V2 Eggxit on the right
Boulder 4m
V2 Easy over eggs
Boulder 4m
V1 5
Boulder
Port Stephens Guide Wall
V1 Flake

The face just right of the corner facing the road, contrived to stay of the easy step up

Boulder
V2 Foamballs

SS under low roof above inlet and mantle

Boulder 2m
V1 Smiles

The left of the pillars on upper level. Left arete, mostly climbing on pockets

Boulder 4m
V2 Tri-fin

The right side of the left pillar on fins

Boulder 4m
V1 Fin enough

The right arete of the right pillar up fins

Boulder 5m
V2 Tic tock

The wall 1m right of the pillars on small pockets. Try to avoid straying into climb to right

Boulder 4m
V1 Fluting

The fluted crack in the middle of wall

Boulder 4m
V1 Swiss cheese traverse

Circumnavigate the pocketed boulder clockwise starting on the easy wall near Marginalise

Boulder 5m
V2 Edam

SS at left end of long pocketed boulder and up overhanging arete

Boulder 2m
Port Stephens Scout Wall Beginner Wall
V2 Sunset Session

Left side of the overhang on the left of the wall. From a crouch on the horn, up the left face.

Boulder 3m
Port Stephens The Docks The Tower Blocks
V2 Fire Escape

Face with thin crack, staying out of corner to the right

Boulder 3m
V1 Hang Five

Sit start then up easy ground

Boulder 4m
V1 The Signa

Up the overhanging V groove

Boulder 5m
V1 The wash up

Long arete, a bit sloppy towards the top

Boulder 6m
V1 Wipe out

The corner

Boulder 6m
Port Stephens The Docks The Atrium
V2 Hoyts

bad rock near the top. Jut right of The Royal.

Boulder
V2 Kensington

Sit start, up the crack and the fragile thin flakes,

Boulder
V1 Reading

Sit start just right of the crack.

Boulder
Port Stephens The Docks South Docks
V1 2

Sit under nose. Up

Boulder 2m
V2 4

Sit, hands either side of arete. Up arete

Boulder 2m
V1 6

Sit, undercling start

Boulder 2m
V2 7

Sit, Flake close to ground, sloping underclings, through rooflet

Boulder 2m
V1 8

Sit under roof at right hand end of short wall. Undercling and up staying on arete

Boulder 2m
V2 Going South

Traverse from side pull around the arete all the way to the far left of the block without using the top

FA: Philly T

Boulder 3m
V2 Syntaciclies

just right of dark streak.

Boulder 4m
V2 Fantasticals
Boulder 4m
V1 Nobody Loves Ice-cream
Boulder 4m
V1 Yellichen It
Boulder 4m
V1 Stockton

Bridge the corner

Boulder 4m
V2 Stockton Sit Start

Silly climbing for silly people

FA: Philly T

Boulder 4m
V2 Tin City

The wall right of corner crack 'Stockton'. Sit start.

Boulder 4m
V1 You've Got A Great Looking Bottom Line
Boulder 4m
Port Stephens The Docks Squashed Dog Wall
V2 Sloper-a-Thon

Sit start the traverse left.

Boulder 5m
V1 Mind, Body, Spirit

Slab start followed by a slightly overhung finish on broken off holds. Easier the taller you are.

Boulder 4m
V2 Bitzer

Sit start same as 'Cross Bred'. Traverse on low holds to finish up fractured rock above small cave at foot level.

Boulder 5m

1 - 100 di 322 vie.

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