Grado | Via | Stile equipaggiamento | Popolarità | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Northern Rivers Urbenville Battery Hill | |||||
15 | ★ Matt The Energizer Man
Climb ramp on R of notch to FH on bulge at 4m. Up beside white streak past 3 FH to stance L of "Cat in Nine" corner. Step up L on short vertical wall with ace buckets (FH) to long slab (FH). Chain belay on headwall shared with "Live Contact". | 30m, 6 | |||
15 | ★ Itchy
Great learner lead. 1m R of the two pines are 3 pockets that look like Mickey Mouse. Up to pockets and on to next FH. Crux moves to and over the next FH lead to jugs and vertical section (FH). Over this to good chain belay on back wall of ledge. FA: Alistair Byrom & Ken Cox | 18m, 5 | |||
15 | ★ Electrolyte
Scramble 6m up to large ledge. 1st FH below large hole (wasps removed). Continue through bulge passing 3 more FHs to chain belay shared with NASATV. Be warned of ants at 2/3 height. FA: Bernard Walsh & Colin Carstens, 2005 | 22m, 4 | |||
Northern Rivers Urbenville The Crown | |||||
15 | ★ Slapp
Off block and follow seam to first BR at five metres. Up slab blipping colts to CB. FA: Ken Cox | 20m | |||
15 | ★ Easement
Good, but a sandbag at its original grade of 13 if climbed directly. Start about 12m R of Urban Villain, in a shallow V. Climb up the V and step L onto a large ledge, the first BR is clipped from the ledge. From the ledge head up to orange overhang and lower-off. FH's and cams. FA: Alistair Byrom & Ken Cox | 30m | |||
15 | ★ Wasted Days and Wasted Nights
FA: Ken Cox & Alistair Byrom | 65m, 2 | |||
15 | Image is All
Start as for the previous two climbs. Head to the same bolt at the hole. Step down onto tooth and up R to ledge. From ledge follow BR's to chain belay. FA: Alistair Byrom & M. Moran | 35m | |||
15 | ★ Flotsam
Start about 4m R of Jetsom. Head straight up slab clipping BR's to chain belay. FA: Ken Cox & Alistair Byrom, 1991 | 16m | |||
Northern Rivers Urbenville Spot X | |||||
15 | The Unknown X
Weirdness. Waaay right and up the hill at nearly the highest point was the first route bolted on this wall by persons unknown. One FH and then glue-in’s. I wonder if we’ll ever find out who did this and then walked away? Climbable with some loose rock still. FFA: Unknown! | 10m | |||
Northern Rivers Mt. Warning Wollumbin Shield Tourist car park (Strangler fig climbing) | |||||
15 | ★★★ Tree star classic
| 20m | |||
Northern Rivers Byron Lowtide Boulders Life bouy rocks | |||||
V0 | ★ Lifebouy Strip
Sit start on jugs and continue upwards and top out FA: Ben Send | ||||
V0 | Jugs ahoy
Sit start on obvious jugs and traverse left past cave like indent and top out FA: Ben Send | ||||
V0 | Did somebody say dyno
Start on jug under small cave and dyno to top jug rail FA: Ben Send | ||||
Northern Rivers Surf Rock | |||||
15 | ★ two believe
One bolt at the top. start 2m right of JFF. up slab to corner then left to chain. FFA: Za Utopia & Be Utopia., 2012 | 15m, 1 | |||
15 | Sacred Union
Climb 2m left of BA, up slightly steeper face upto nose with sharp edges... use rope protector when abseiling in. FA: Za Utopia, 2013 | 16m | |||
15 | Back in Black
Next climbs access from out the end of headland.2 m left of EJ about 15m right of moonlight drive.Climb big black slab wall FFA: Za Utopia & Maxium, 2013 | 15m | |||
15 | take you home
start under roof 2m R of 3e. FA: 2013 | 10m | |||
V0 | ★★ Fisherman's cast arête
The boulder is found another 50m on from the last rope climb. Local fisherman's spot. This was the first line climbed here, and the best. Beautiful laybacking with a heel hook up the right arête. The line is from a stand start but a sit start has also been done, maybe at a V1 but adds no value. Finish on the top of the boulder with a nice mantle. FA: Taliesin St. john, 7 Lug 2021 | 4m | |||
Northern Rivers Lighthouse beach | |||||
V0 | ★ A5
Layaway right crack to jug and hand jam. | ||||
V0 | A8
Juggy slab with wide pinch. | ||||
V0 | ★ Left traverse
Using all the good holds and traverse left at the horizontal break FA: Gopal Thorburn | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ Direct right
Move rightwards and up around the blunt arrest | 3m | |||
V0 | C1
| ||||
V0 | ★ C7
Up juggy arete avoiding both left and right blocks. High and narrow landing. | ||||
V0 | ★ D3
In corner, up past fin. | ||||
V0 | D5
Juggy arete | ||||
V0 | D7
Cracks up face | ||||
V0 | ★ D8
Jugs up arete. | ||||
V0 | J2
Avoid climbing over ledge on left! | ||||
V0 | J3
Jam crack to jugs at top. | ||||
V0 | J17
Often has dirty top out! | ||||
V0 | J21
| ||||
Northern Rivers Joggly point cave | |||||
V0 | ★ Cold Feet
| ||||
V0 | Sea Legs
| ||||
Northern Rivers Turners beach | |||||
V0 | Deserve the view
Start on the crimpy ledge on the left of the western face. Straight up | 3m | |||
Northern Rivers Woodford Island See Sea Wall | |||||
15 | Over the Top
Bridge start up slab to high reach after small roof to a jug near anchors. | 8m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Dusk Wall | |||||
15 | Rock People
2m R of O.start right of blackboy. Small run out at the end. last break too dirty for gear. Anchor tree and boulder. Long slings. FFA: Za Utopia & Darius Utopia, 1 Apr 2016 | 9m | |||
15 | Eagle Clan
Left of Othila. FA: Za/Be Utopia | 9m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Twilight Zone | |||||
15 | ★ Carnage At The Mouse Machine
climbs the right leaning orange crack | 12m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Wild Dog | |||||
15 | ★ Gopher
Up to big bowl, then up to tree. All gear | 15m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Goodvibes Wall | |||||
15 | Corky's Crack
Up the nice corner crack, step left around the roof and then tend right to the bolts at the lip. FA: Brian Cork, 1997 | 15m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Pooh Wall | |||||
15 | ★ Pooh Scoop
4m right of WTPGHH. Through the large scoop, six CARROT BOLTS to chains at back of large scoop at top. The position of these chains means the rope is running over an edge for the lower off but the chains at WTPGHH can be used as an alternative. Apparently this was set up as a trainer for lead climbing. | 14m, 6 | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Waihoo 354 | |||||
15 | ★ Under-toe
Up the short corner past wire to tree, then easily up wide corner crack to anchors of Rubber Toe. Readily TR from these anchors if you don’t have big gear. | 18m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fun Parlour | |||||
15 | Whip It
Whip it ... Whip it GOOD! This is good. The first crack on the next wall. A hand to fist crack, with crux near the top. FA: L. Dixon & I. Allen, 1985 | 8m | |||
15 | Boot The Puss
2m right of PUS IN BOOTS. Up overhanging wall past crazy thread runner in roof, then cruise. FA: L. Dixon & Davey, 1989 | 8m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Sherwood Buttress | |||||
15 | ★★ Our Kind Of Sunday
3m left of Tink Tink. Climb delicately over horizontal rail feature to horizontal break at 3.5m for first piece of gear. Break takes small, medium cams, then up through flakes and pockets to top out. Small cams and wires near top. Natural belay. FFA: Thomas Gissing & Luciana Albuquerque | 8m | |||
15 | ★ Ethan's Tears
1m right of ‘Divorce’ upon delicate flaky holds. 1BR, crux past first bolt. Natural belay FA: Danny Rose | 8m, 1 | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Kremnos Boulder | |||||
V0 | Cecil
SDS as per Scarlet Manuka but traverse R onto ramp. | 4m | |||
V0 | Iron Paw
SDS, face to R of arete. | 3m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Blowboy boulder | |||||
V0 | ★ Blowboy
Short and easy | 4m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Impossible Wall | |||||
V0 | Rangi
Slab in centre of face, left of chimney | 3m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones The Fortress | |||||
V0 | ★ Dolores
Highball face left of crack | 6m | |||
V0 | ★ Jess
Highball corner crack/slab | 5m | |||
V0 | ★ The Cry of the Grey Ghost
Highball crack | ||||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones The Alcove | |||||
V0 | ★ Slabba Dabba Doo
Short, slabby face | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ Shaggy
Prominent crack left of tree | 4m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones High Ball Wall | |||||
V0 | ★★★ One Eye and the Optometrist
Highball face, excellent climbing FFA: Artie Schultz, 2013 | 7m | |||
V0 R | ★★ Jug Rattler
Highball face, marginal R rating due to big rock in landing zone and possibly loose jug at 2/3 height FFA: Artie Schultz, 2013 | 7m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Orange Wall | |||||
V0 | ★ Sugar
Featured grey face left of tree | 6m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Jam and Cream Wall | |||||
V0 | ★★ Jam and Cream
Face 1 m right of arete | 4m | |||
V0 | ★★ Charred Remains
Featured face 1m right of tree. FA: Tara Everson, 3 Set 2017 | 5m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Oreo | |||||
V0 | ★ Left Oreo
Lefthand side of juggy face to ledge | 3m | |||
V0 | ★★ Oreo
Centre of juggy face to ledge | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ Oreo Traverse
Traverse the prominent rail | 4m | |||
V0 | ★ Super Cruise
Highball arete right of the Oreo | 5m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones South Park | |||||
V0 | Your Father Smelt of Elderberries
Right side of roof. | 2m | |||
V0 | ★ I Fart In Your General Direction.
Short, easy wall between the grass trees at the top of the little hill. | 2m | |||
V0 | ★ Electric Donkey Bottom Biter
Another fun, easy kiddy route. | 2m | |||
V0 | ★ Wombling Free
Easy wall left of crack. | 2m | |||
V0 | ★ The Wombles of Wimbledon
Easy wall right of crack. | 2m | |||
V0 | ★★ Flight of the Finches
Easy, juggy wall to the right of the roof. | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ BuG
SDS at far right arete. trend slightly R, then L and stick to LH face at rooflet. Tracciata: Keiron Sames, 10 Apr 2022 FA: Lila Sames, 10 Apr 2022 | 3m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones The Smoulder Boulders | |||||
V0 | ★ Snootch
Start left of the tree | 2m | |||
V0 | ★★ Cooch
Face left of arete | 3m | |||
V0 | Horse
RH arete | 3m | |||
V0 | Pew
| 3m | |||
V0 | Prince Charles
Face R of tree | 3m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Aussie Mateship Boulder | |||||
V0 | ★ C'mon Mate
SDS Horizontal flake to jug | 2m | |||
V0 | ★ Aussie Mateship
SDS Vertical flake to jug | 2m | |||
V0 | ★ Onya Mate
SDS Huge arete/flake. Up the flake and then traverse the rail right across the boulder. | 6m | |||
V0 | Yeah Mate
Arete | 3m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Jugville Boulder | |||||
V0 | ★★ Horn Dog
SDS to large, prominent horn feature. There are many variations of this problem. | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ Jugville Central
Loads of V0 variations | 2m | |||
V0 | around the jug
Couple of variants from a start on the arete, moving right onto south face then up leaning crack ramp in middle or keep moving R to next arete and up. FA: Keiron Sames, 8 Mag 2022 | 2m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Pocket Boulder | |||||
V0 | Vert Fin
SDS. layback vert rail jugs. FA: Keiron Sames, 8 Mag 2022 | 3m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Thread Boulder | |||||
V0 | Thread
The southern side of the boulder with the cool thread. Don't break it. | 3m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Far North | |||||
V0 | Left wall
Up the wall left of the little roof | 4m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Wonderland Warped Wall | |||||
15 | ★ Toto Takes the High Road
Climb Yellow Brick Road and then left up the face to a tree belay. FA: Brian Cork & Ally Cork, 5 Ago 2018 | 15m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Wonderland Whipping wall | |||||
15 | ★ Whip It Good
1m right of Working the Dog. 2 bolts to trad belay. FA: G. Dean & G. Gilchrist, 1993 | 12m, 2 | |||
15 | Knuckle Sandwich
The off-width crack 4m right of Empty Pockets. Large cams. FA: Richard Curtis & Brian Birchall et al, 1991 | 10m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Godzone First Tier | |||||
15 | Cirrus
Arete route above Seaena & Headron. Self belay route used to climb out. Only access is to abseil in. Probably won't be done by anyone due to access problem. Good though due to exposure. FA: Bruce Jones | 12m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Godzone Second Tier | |||||
15 | Trinity
Directly above Bealzibbs Revenge. Three empty pockets, face down at top. Basic but fun. Natural Pro, double bolt belay. FA: Mal Drummond & B. Jones, 1996 | 9m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Music Hall | |||||
15 | Drum Beat
An easy way to the top. Left of 'Broken Toe' up past a tree. Natural Pro and Belay. FA: Bruce Jones | 18m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Sawtell Murry's Crag | |||||
V0 | ★ Hair Flick
sit start up erete to top FA: Mitchell Stewart, 21 Nov 2014 | 3m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Sawtell Boambee Headland | |||||
V0 | ★ R-L Traverse
| 8m | |||
V0 | ★ Walkers Wander
Stand start on obvious features, up to layback rail top out. Traverse or down climb to exit. | 4m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Sawtell Mal's Rock | |||||
15 | Confusion
Directly behind 'Fine Young Crack'. A mainline climb with lots of useless holds, hence the confusion. | 7m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Sawtell Wave Wall | |||||
V0 | Climb Another Day
Straightfoward little problem at the far left of the wall above the rockpool. | ||||
V0 | A View To A Krill
This pleasant West-facing slab is found about 50m behind Wave Wall (just the other side of the little grassy patch) down by the ruined slipway. Great for beginners and kids, it can be climbed just about anywhere. The right-to-left traverse is probably the best value offering. | ||||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Sawtell Sawtell Caravan Park (Bonville creek) Ship Wreck | |||||
V0 | Boarding Party
Sit start and up slightly right of the slight overhang. Tracciata: Deon Heemskerk | 3m |