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Grado Via Stile equipaggiamento Popolarità
Northern Rivers Urbenville Battery Hill
10 Positively Terminal

Tricked into a solo by Sandbag Sam. Up wall just R of tree with large leaves about 15m L of the two pines. At top of wall trend L to start of R leading ramp. Up this to wall 3m from top. Straight up wall. No pro. "Why did you do that?" "Cause I’m stupid."

FA: Mark Churchill

Trad 20m
Northern Rivers Urbenville Vesuvius
11 Carbon Footprint

A crowd pleaser. 6m R. Unusual knobby slab to lower off 5m below the big half-height cave. 8 FH’s.

FFA: Kathryn Gardner & Erik Smits, 2014

Sportiva 25m, 8
Northern Rivers Mt. Warning Wollumbin Shield Tourist car park (Strangler fig climbing)
10 Gecko chimney
Sconosciuto 20m
11 The little leaner
Sconosciuto 15m
Northern Rivers Cape Byron Light house Cliff
10 Die For Gear

15m on from B.Y.S Gully . Scramble up the corner then back and foot to the top. Finishes at top of Violet crumble. Down climb or ab.

FA: Eric Milton, 18 Mar 2023

Trad 15m
10 Massage

Climb the good left leaning corner up the middle of the face. 6m left of Facial.

FA: Eric Milton, 18 Mar 2023

Trad 15m
Northern Rivers Surf Rock
11 Robyn, Pauline

first climb in 2nd gully, next 7 climbs anchor of 2 carrots at top.

FA: 2013

Corda dall'alto 10m
10 Ancestral spirits

2m R of P

FA: 2013

Corda dall'alto 10m
Northern Rivers Lighthouse beach
VB+ B5

Straight up jugs to mantel.

Boulder
Northern Rivers Woodford Island See Sea Wall
10 Honey

Easy with some nice rock in first half to interesting feature as it veers left to anchors of (S.I.S)

Sportiva 10m
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Waihoo Dog House
10 Corner Crack

Corner Crack on Right side of wall. no anchors except you can traverse left to anchor on project

Trad 12m
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fun Parlour
11 Like A Virgin

The corner right of SANDY SANDSHOES. Neil's first route! Up onto the step then bridge up corner.

FA: Neil Crabb & Al Stephens, 1988

Trad 8m
10 Luke Warm

The left hand arete of the "Shower Recess". Up the arete then easily to top. A great beginners' route.

FA: L. Dixon & M. Spence, 1986

Trad 8m
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Wonderland Grab the Gristle Area
10 Barn Storming

The left hand, low angled side of the small buttress.

FA: G. Dean (solo), 1991

Trad 8m
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Wonderland Silk 'n' Steel Wall
10 Jester

The crack 3m right of Punters and Collectors. Climb crack to tree belay. Large cams.

FA: K. Bennett & G. Dean, 1991

Trad 15m
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Potting Shed
10 Ready!

2m right of Round up! up crag then trend left to top tree belay.

FA: Mitchell Stewart & Caritta Courtt, 16 Ago 2015

Trad 8m
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Sawtell Claire's Crag
10 Diapers
Corda dall'alto 8m
Mid North Coast Grassy Head Ripple Wall
11 Flare

The big open corner 2m R of RWS. Head up corner using obvious crack line and juggy holds to stance. Continue up to Top-out over obvious grassy block onto the descent ledge/path. Build anchor to rap, down climb or walk off (see RFID for descent details).

FA: Ben Vincent, 11 Mag 2017

Trad 10m
VB+ Ochre

Starts at crack between light and dark rock. Follow broken line to top. See RB for descent details.

FA: Ben Vincent, 11 Mag 2017

Boulder 6m
Mid North Coast Crowdy Bay Diamond Head The Boat Hole Starboard Pillar
10 Free Wobbegong

A fun, relaxing lead up blocky rock and crack, opposite Port Pillar. Rock quality is average to sub par on this end of the pillar, especially in the last few metres, some blocks have dislodged recently (2023). Setting up an anchor may be problematic; it is recommended you belay off harness and preload anchor.

Trad 10m
Hunter Valley Watagans Dora Pinnacles Rhinegold Wall
10 Rhinegold

Step out ofcave at 1/3 height on left and head diagonally right up wall to finish near arete.

FA: N Masterman, N Petersen & Ann Auston, 1968

Sportiva 24m, 5
Hunter Valley Watagans Dora Pinnacles Dark Side
11 Ann's

Offwidth flake, then slab passing a bolt with several shallow chipped holds

FA: Neal Peterson & Ann Auston, 1968

Trad mista 25m, 1
10 Pee Wee's Slab

Classical slabby corner with awkward overlap.

FA: Noel Masterman & Ann Auston, 1968

Trad 25m
Hunter Valley Watagans Dora Pinnacles Lego Land
10 Piss Ant
Sconosciuto 5m
Hunter Valley Watagans Monkey Face Practice Area
10 Photogenic (Direct)

Continue directly up wall after Photogenic's bolt

FA: David Gray, Lindsay Irvine & Paul Doran, 1984

Trad mista 15m, 2
Hunter Valley Watagans Monkey Face Lookout Area
11 Raining Cars and Rocks

The loose slab 3m right of Holy Dirt.

FA: Darrin Gray, 1985

Trad 12m
10 The Alternative

Cracks up a square cut groove 7m right of Flake

FA: David Gray, 1982

Trad 8m
Hunter Valley Watagans Monkey Face Turkey Walls
11 Septic

Short wall, left through the roof then corner.

FA: David Gray, 1982

Trad 15m
10 Septic (Variant)

Exit right at Septic's roof.

FA: David Gray & Darrin Gray, 1983

Trad 6m
10 Tennis Traverse

Starts at the weakness 10m right of "Joe's Climb", moves up and traverses above the roof to the left.

FA: David Gray & Dan Rogers, 1983

Trad 20m
Hunter Valley Watagans Monkey Face Central Gully
10 Animal Trail

Climb cracks and corner system right of "Turquosine" which is on the left side of the "Central Gully" (ie opposite side to "Chutney"). Used for many years as a training route for scouts. NB it is not where it's shown in "Newcastle & Hunter Valley Rockclimbing 2013" (which is Easy's Arete, harder and less protected).

FA: Paul Smith, David Gray & Bruce Donaldson, 1980

Trad 15m
10 Scrunch Traverse

Traverse right from the Chutney tree to finish up a groove just left of the RS cave.

FA: David Gray, Dan Ewald & Dan Rogers, 1982

Trad 20m
Hunter Valley Watagans Monkey Face The Ramparts
11 Inertia

The overhung corner start leads to an easier angled continuation to a tree belay. Either abseil off tree or carefully climb the easy corner to walk off left along the terrace above the Smear Slabs.

FA: 1978

Trad 20m
10 Vascolomys Wambach

The corner, after negotiating the lip of the cave. Move right to anchor above Strapidectomy.

FA: David Gray & Michael Gray, 1981

Trad 20m
Hunter Valley Watagans Monkey Face Lower Crag
10 EZ PZ

Up the root infested crack to a lower off root.

FA: Adrian Kladnig, 28 Mag 2016

Trad 7m
Hunter Valley Watagans Monkey Face Middle Crag
10 Marginal Existence

The thin crack left of corner into offwidth up high. Finish at shared DBB with S

FA: David Gray, 1981

Trad 7m
10 Significance

The corner crack, just right of Marginal Existence. Try it without bridging. DBB

FA: David Gray, 1983

Trad 7m
10 In-significant

Take the crack right of the corner and left of Visage, trending right to DUBB above Visage

Trad 8m
11 Marmalade

"A different sort of Jamb" Take the prominent diagonal crack, right of Colour Card, then finish diagonally rightwards across the overlap to a tree belay as for WV

FA: David Gray, 1982

Trad 12m
10 Minder Binder

Start on the right of the orange scoop, 4m right of 'Napotiliano', stepping right at the roof to finish up 'Napotiliano'.

FA: David Gray & Bob McBride, 1982

Trad 0m
11 Cosmic Corgi

"A right royal route". Start at the short corner 7m right of 'Minder Binder'.

FA: David Gray, 1983

Trad 10m
10 Ejection

Climb the twin cracks 8m right of Cosmic Corgi.

FA: Robert Stow & Martin Cook, 1982

Trad 10m
11 Rash

The left facing corner, 3m right of Pot Holed.

FA: David Gray, 1983

Trad 12m
Hunter Valley Watagans Monkey Face Upper Crag
11 Eject

Start as for Perpetual Poet, but continue up the crack line.

FA: Rob Wallace, Darrin Gray & David Gray, 1983

Trad 24m
10 Diagonal Crack

Climb the short diagonal crack 6m right of Psychopathic Gardener.

FA: David Gray & Bob McBride, 1982

Trad 12m
Hunter Valley Watagans Monkey Face The Wild West
11 Pure and Simple

Climbs the corner 1m right of 'Foot loose and Fancy Tree' to a set of ring bolt anchors at top of crack at 10m.

FA: David Gray, 1982

Trad 9m
10 Suburbia

The scungy crack / groove line 8m right of 'Pure and Simple' to a bulging conclusion.

FA: David Gray, 1983

Trad 7m
11 Awkward and Unusual

Start below a fist/offwidth crack 25m right of Suburbia. Climb the steep wall then struggle up the crack.

FA: David Gray & Dan Rogers, 1982

Trad 10m
Hunter Valley Watagans Monkey Face Rubble Box
10 Disneyland

This is the deep corner/gully behind a large tree 50m left of Xanado.

FA: Paul Smith, Bruce Donaldson, James Cowmeadow & Jenny Anderson, 1983

Trad 15m
Hunter Valley Watagans Monkey Face The Ridge
10 Corner crack

Left facing corner with hand crack 5m right of SOH. Tree belay.

Trad 7m
Hunter Valley Watagans Monkey Face South Face
11 Holden

Climb the right hand line in the square cut groove.

FA: David Gray, 1983

Trad 10m
Hunter Valley Watagans Tomteland
10 New Arrivals

Very pleasant corner with slabby ramp. Lower-offs.

FA: Michael Moore, 12 Set 2020

Trad 10m
Hunter Valley Watagans Gate Crag Central Buttress
11 Gulching
Sconosciuto 10m
Hunter Valley Watagans Rope Rd The Main Line
10 Shit Shoot

Wide chimney / gully

FA: George Fieg (solo), 1989

Trad 15m
Hunter Valley Watagans Rope Rd The Amphitheatre
11 Mad Max
Trad 5m
Hunter Valley Watagans Rope Rd Forgotten Walls
11 Three Musketeers

Easy corner with large tree at half height, to lower-off below the roof

FA: Remo Meyer & Tara Wingfield, 1989

Trad 20m
Hunter Valley Watagans Mt Sugarloaf Main Line
11 No Way Baby
Sconosciuto 17m
11 It's only for sheep
Sconosciuto 17m
11 Egotistical Banana Roof (Direct)
Sconosciuto 15m
10 The Groper
Sconosciuto 20m
Hunter Valley Watagans Mt Sugarloaf East Face
10 Calliban
Sconosciuto 10m
Hunter Valley Watagans Mt Sugarloaf The Summit
11 Atmosphere Exit
Sconosciuto 15m
11 Exit Stage Left
Sconosciuto 12m
Hunter Valley Watagans George's Road Main Cliff
10 Shear Delight

FA: Darrin Gray & Kevin Walker, 1987

Corda dall'alto 15m
Hunter Valley Port Stephens Scout Wall
11 Rock Craft

The easy slab on the right.

FA: Tim Haasnoot, 2012

Trad 10m
10 Seal Spotting
Trad 9m
10 Jigsaw

Start off ledge. Up vague crack system. Carrot top anchor.

FFA: Amy Halligan, 18 Ago 2014

Trad 8m
Hunter Valley Port Stephens Morna point South Wall
11 American Pig"tales"

The left most route on the black slab. Can only be done in very low seas. Easy climbing up the juggy slab. There is also a trad line that exists right of the bolts, straight up to the lower off.

FA: Mary Ellen Kustin, 2004

Sportiva 10m, 3
Hunter Valley Port Stephens Skate Park Small Wall
10 Chimney

FA: Jason Piper, 2002

Trad 7m
Hunter Valley Port Stephens Skate Park Half Pipe
10 Keloid
Trad 8m
Hunter Valley Port Stephens Treatment Plant Plant 1, The Sunny Side
11 Borborygmi

R facing corner 2m R of PA. Mantle to start then up crack. Good pro and nice moves for grade.

FA: V Wills, 2004

Trad 9m
Hunter Valley Port Stephens Treatment Plant Plant 2, The Dark Side
11 The Cheese Grater
Trad 10m
10 Cutting The Cheese
Trad 9m
Hunter Valley Port Stephens Tomaree Head Black Slab
10 Death Alley
Sconosciuto 50m
Hunter Valley Bulahdelah Fieg's Overhang Fiegs Right Wall
10 Diagonal ramp

A way of access to upper tier. Can be soloed though rock a bit soapy. Some trad gear helps. Start right of large tree at hand sized crack then left up ramp.Go past anchors above SF, and continue to Sky Pilot.

FA: J Wilde

Trad 20m
Hunter Valley Bulahdelah Black Wall Major
11 Unknown 1

Starts 5m left of Black Groove. Fun first 3 clips then tapers off for the remaining first half. Second half starts with another small vertical section and tapers off again to the anchors. Need 70m+ rope to lower off! Need 11 draws + 2 for anchors

Sportiva 35m, 11
11 Unknown 2

Starts 10m left of Black Groove. Need 70m+ rope to lower off! Need 12 draws + 2 for the anchors.

Sportiva 35m, 12
11 A slab in the face

5m left of FCKF up clean slab on U bolts

Tracciata: John Hollott

FA: John Hollott, 1 Apr 2019

Sportiva 15m, 8
Hunter Valley Bulahdelah Chiusa West side Alum mountain Boiler wall
10 Thunder Bolt

Start from toe of arete and up. Hex bolts.

FA: J Wilde

Sportiva 16m, 7
10 Thunder Bolt (Variant)

Start from platform and step right and up staying left of arete until final moves. Hex Bolts.

FA: John Wilde, 2012

Sportiva 12m, 6
Hunter Valley Bulahdelah Chiusa East side Alum mountain Tea wall
10 Brown Nose

Crack at left side of chasm to tree, then continue up arete with little gear to anchors of BB/A.

FA: Unknown

Trad 15m
Hunter Valley Bulahdelah Chiusa Engineers Arete
10 Falcon

Start at right hand end of Engineers wall on top of boulder in gully. Diagonal crack goes up and right to belay on tree on ledge.

FA: D Gray & V Wills, 2013

Trad 20m
Hunter Valley Newcastle Awabakal
10 Carrot practice slab

Designed to introduced fledgling climbers to outdoors

Tracciata: Jason Piper

Sportiva 6m, 3
Hunter Valley Newcastle Glenrock Lagoon Waterfall Area
10 Carrot Top

Up on ledges passing carrots to tree belay. Beware of the loose block.

FA: Luke Yerbury, Giu 2020

Sportiva 8m, 3
11 One, Two, Umm, Three!

Follow the carrots up the broad arete. Move to good stance, clip, repeat. Nice beginner lead.

FA: Luke Yerbury, Giu 2020

Sportiva 8m, 4
Hunter Valley Gloucester Gloucester Buckets Water Course Slabs
10 Off Course
Sconosciuto 23m
Northern Tablelands Dangars Gorge Dangars Falls
11 Dreadnought

Start: In the corner to the left of the orange pillar. This climb was put up by three climbers who became lost while attempting to do Action. The corner has a lot of loose rock. Not recommended. As for Action from pitch 2 onwards.

  1. 46m. Straight up the corner for approx. 41m then traverse left for 5m. to a large ledge.

2-5. 104m Traverse left along obvious ledge, then up up and away...as for Action (see next route).

FA: N.Hughes, N.Beynon & J.Street, 1970

Trad 150m
10 Kneecap

Start: At the base of a ramp below first pool opposite the main falls

  1. 34m. Up towards vertical cracks, step right and continue up to right, to a spiky ledge. Belay.
  2. 32m. Traverse right to bottom of v-shaped gully. Up wall on right, traverse right under small overhang. Belay
  3. 14m.Up corner or wall to top.

FA: M.Thomas & V.Galer, 1966

Trad 80m
Northern Tablelands Dangars Gorge Mihi Falls
10 Rumble Gully

Start: At the bottom of the second gully to the left of the pool below the major falls.

  1. 20m (crux) Up crack, then chimney and over the small overhang

  2. 40m Scramble up to knife-edge which hides the hidden pool.

  3. 12m Up wall above the hidden pool via crack.

  4. Walk up.

  5. 20m. Depending on the amount of water, take the overhanging chimney behind big rock in big pool. Alternatively, chimney to the right of the pool and traverse left.

FA: B.Harden & D.McLean, 1965

Trad 90m, 5
10 Variant Start To Rumble Gully

Start: In gully right of RG.

Up 7m then up right crack 10m traverse 5m (which way?) then after this wandering, over slight overhang to belay.

FA: D.McLean (second did not follow), 1965

Trad 30m
11 Zig Zag

Start: An appropriate name. In the chimney Start: A crack on a wall in the watercourse above the lower pool, to the right of Deception. below the pool.

Up narrow chimney, then traverse right, along ledge, then up, traverse left, then right and up line of weakness. Traverse left and scramble to top.

FA: D.McLean & B.Harden, 1965

Trad 33m
Northern Tablelands Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Central climbing areas Car Park Boulder
10 The Golden Legion of Cleaning Women

Start: Somewhere (?) on a boulder 200 m downstream of Pink Freud.

FA: M. Peck (solo), 1982

Trad 15m
Northern Tablelands Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Central climbing areas Hope Buttress
10 Nirvana on Tap

Start: 2m left of Yuppie. A hard start.

Muscle up start, then cruise to horizontal crack, traverse left to ledge. Tree belay.

FA: Ed Sharpe & Brian Birchall, 1980

Trad 7m
Northern Tablelands Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Central climbing areas Motorhead Buttress
10 Motorhead Madness

Start: The corner to the left of the thin roof crack.

Up corner crack to top.

FA: B. Haliburton & Neil Crabb, 1988

Trad 8m
Northern Tablelands Gara Gorge Western Gara Gorge Nettle Buttress
11 Wild Fire

Start: At groove that seems to disappear into the mank.

Straight up the crack, take the right groove at 21m, up bottle neck to a large ledge.

FA: Al Stephens & Jill Kelman, 1975

Trad 33m
Northern Tablelands Gara Gorge Western Gara Gorge Persian Carpets The Carpet
10 Flakey Pastry

Start: A clean black strip up the low angle slabs up and left of ‘Stop In The Name Of Love’ on the Persian Carpets. About 15m right of ‘Ataxerxes’.

Up the black strip of slab with no protection.

FA: Russell Chudleigh, 1985

Trad 35m
Northern Tablelands Bakers Creek Waterfall climbing
11 Ammon

The climbs are described in an anti-clockwise direction when facing the falls.

Start: A crack on a wall in the watercourse below the pool. 15m. Up the crack

FA: R.Dixon & D.Gallimore, 1961

Trad 15m
11 Can’t Decide

Start: 1m. right of the main water course. The smooth slabs.

30m. Straight up the smooth slabs.

FA: D.Mills & J.Street, 1969

Trad 30m
10 Fungicide

Start: Possible only during drought. At the base of the main water chute.

  1. 30m. Straight up the water chute.

  2. 10m. On the upper falls, the finish goes directly up the face slightly to the right of the water chute.

FA: B.Harden & M.Thomas, 1965

Trad 40m, 2
11 Normacide

Start: About 6m right of the corner, as for Bakercide.

  1. 45m.Up to a large block, over this and up a ramp to the bottom of the wall.

  2. 15m. Up the wall and the obvious crack (crux).

FA: D.Mills & D.McLean, 1966

Trad 60m, 2
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