Grado | Via | Stile equipaggiamento | Popolarità | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Northern Rivers Urbenville Battery Hill | |||||
10 | Positively Terminal
Tricked into a solo by Sandbag Sam. Up wall just R of tree with large leaves about 15m L of the two pines. At top of wall trend L to start of R leading ramp. Up this to wall 3m from top. Straight up wall. No pro. "Why did you do that?" "Cause I’m stupid." FA: Mark Churchill | 20m | |||
Northern Rivers Urbenville Vesuvius | |||||
11 | ★ Carbon Footprint
A crowd pleaser. 6m R. Unusual knobby slab to lower off 5m below the big half-height cave. 8 FH’s. FFA: Kathryn Gardner & Erik Smits, 2014 | 25m, 8 | |||
Northern Rivers Mt. Warning Wollumbin Shield Tourist car park (Strangler fig climbing) | |||||
10 | ★★★ Gecko chimney
| 20m | |||
11 | ★★ The little leaner
| 15m | |||
Northern Rivers Cape Byron Light house Cliff | |||||
10 | Die For Gear
15m on from B.Y.S Gully . Scramble up the corner then back and foot to the top. Finishes at top of Violet crumble. Down climb or ab. FA: Eric Milton, 18 Mar 2023 | 15m | |||
10 | Massage
Climb the good left leaning corner up the middle of the face. 6m left of Facial. FA: Eric Milton, 18 Mar 2023 | 15m | |||
Northern Rivers Surf Rock | |||||
11 | Robyn, Pauline
first climb in 2nd gully, next 7 climbs anchor of 2 carrots at top. FA: 2013 | 10m | |||
10 | Ancestral spirits
2m R of P FA: 2013 | 10m | |||
Northern Rivers Lighthouse beach | |||||
VB+ | ★ B5
Straight up jugs to mantel. | ||||
Northern Rivers Woodford Island See Sea Wall | |||||
10 | Honey
Easy with some nice rock in first half to interesting feature as it veers left to anchors of (S.I.S) | 10m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Waihoo Dog House | |||||
10 | Corner Crack
Corner Crack on Right side of wall. no anchors except you can traverse left to anchor on project | 12m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fun Parlour | |||||
11 | Like A Virgin
The corner right of SANDY SANDSHOES. Neil's first route! Up onto the step then bridge up corner. FA: Neil Crabb & Al Stephens, 1988 | 8m | |||
10 | ★ Luke Warm
The left hand arete of the "Shower Recess". Up the arete then easily to top. A great beginners' route. FA: L. Dixon & M. Spence, 1986 | 8m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Wonderland Grab the Gristle Area | |||||
10 | Barn Storming
The left hand, low angled side of the small buttress. FA: G. Dean (solo), 1991 | 8m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Wonderland Silk 'n' Steel Wall | |||||
10 | Jester
The crack 3m right of Punters and Collectors. Climb crack to tree belay. Large cams. FA: K. Bennett & G. Dean, 1991 | 15m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Potting Shed | |||||
10 | Ready!
2m right of Round up! up crag then trend left to top tree belay. FA: Mitchell Stewart & Caritta Courtt, 16 Ago 2015 | 8m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Sawtell Claire's Crag | |||||
10 | Diapers
| 8m | |||
Mid North Coast Grassy Head Ripple Wall | |||||
11 | Flare
The big open corner 2m R of RWS. Head up corner using obvious crack line and juggy holds to stance. Continue up to Top-out over obvious grassy block onto the descent ledge/path. Build anchor to rap, down climb or walk off (see RFID for descent details). FA: Ben Vincent, 11 Mag 2017 | 10m | |||
VB+ | ★ Ochre
Starts at crack between light and dark rock. Follow broken line to top. See RB for descent details. FA: Ben Vincent, 11 Mag 2017 | 6m | |||
Mid North Coast Crowdy Bay Diamond Head The Boat Hole Starboard Pillar | |||||
10 | Free Wobbegong
A fun, relaxing lead up blocky rock and crack, opposite Port Pillar. Rock quality is average to sub par on this end of the pillar, especially in the last few metres, some blocks have dislodged recently (2023). Setting up an anchor may be problematic; it is recommended you belay off harness and preload anchor. | 10m | |||
Hunter Valley Watagans Dora Pinnacles Rhinegold Wall | |||||
10 | ★★★ Rhinegold
Step out ofcave at 1/3 height on left and head diagonally right up wall to finish near arete. FA: N Masterman, N Petersen & Ann Auston, 1968 | 24m, 5 | |||
Hunter Valley Watagans Dora Pinnacles Dark Side | |||||
11 | Ann's
Offwidth flake, then slab passing a bolt with several shallow chipped holds FA: Neal Peterson & Ann Auston, 1968 | 25m, 1 | |||
10 | ★ Pee Wee's Slab
Classical slabby corner with awkward overlap. FA: Noel Masterman & Ann Auston, 1968 | 25m | |||
Hunter Valley Watagans Dora Pinnacles Lego Land | |||||
10 | Piss Ant
| 5m | |||
Hunter Valley Watagans Monkey Face Practice Area | |||||
10 | ★ Photogenic (Direct)
Continue directly up wall after Photogenic's bolt FA: David Gray, Lindsay Irvine & Paul Doran, 1984 | 15m, 2 | |||
Hunter Valley Watagans Monkey Face Lookout Area | |||||
11 | Raining Cars and Rocks
The loose slab 3m right of Holy Dirt. FA: Darrin Gray, 1985 | 12m | |||
10 | The Alternative
Cracks up a square cut groove 7m right of Flake FA: David Gray, 1982 | 8m | |||
Hunter Valley Watagans Monkey Face Turkey Walls | |||||
11 | Septic
Short wall, left through the roof then corner. FA: David Gray, 1982 | 15m | |||
10 | Septic (Variant)
Exit right at Septic's roof. FA: David Gray & Darrin Gray, 1983 | 6m | |||
10 | Tennis Traverse
Starts at the weakness 10m right of "Joe's Climb", moves up and traverses above the roof to the left. FA: David Gray & Dan Rogers, 1983 | 20m | |||
Hunter Valley Watagans Monkey Face Central Gully | |||||
10 | Animal Trail
Climb cracks and corner system right of "Turquosine" which is on the left side of the "Central Gully" (ie opposite side to "Chutney"). Used for many years as a training route for scouts. NB it is not where it's shown in "Newcastle & Hunter Valley Rockclimbing 2013" (which is Easy's Arete, harder and less protected). FA: Paul Smith, David Gray & Bruce Donaldson, 1980 | 15m | |||
10 | Scrunch Traverse
Traverse right from the Chutney tree to finish up a groove just left of the RS cave. FA: David Gray, Dan Ewald & Dan Rogers, 1982 | 20m | |||
Hunter Valley Watagans Monkey Face The Ramparts | |||||
11 | ★ Inertia
The overhung corner start leads to an easier angled continuation to a tree belay. Either abseil off tree or carefully climb the easy corner to walk off left along the terrace above the Smear Slabs. FA: 1978 | 20m | |||
10 | ★ Vascolomys Wambach
The corner, after negotiating the lip of the cave. Move right to anchor above Strapidectomy. FA: David Gray & Michael Gray, 1981 | 20m | |||
Hunter Valley Watagans Monkey Face Lower Crag | |||||
10 | EZ PZ
Up the root infested crack to a lower off root. FA: Adrian Kladnig, 28 Mag 2016 | 7m | |||
Hunter Valley Watagans Monkey Face Middle Crag | |||||
10 | Marginal Existence
The thin crack left of corner into offwidth up high. Finish at shared DBB with S FA: David Gray, 1981 | 7m | |||
10 | ★ Significance
The corner crack, just right of Marginal Existence. Try it without bridging. DBB FA: David Gray, 1983 | 7m | |||
10 | ★ In-significant
Take the crack right of the corner and left of Visage, trending right to DUBB above Visage | 8m | |||
11 | Marmalade
"A different sort of Jamb" Take the prominent diagonal crack, right of Colour Card, then finish diagonally rightwards across the overlap to a tree belay as for WV FA: David Gray, 1982 | 12m | |||
10 | Minder Binder
Start on the right of the orange scoop, 4m right of 'Napotiliano', stepping right at the roof to finish up 'Napotiliano'. FA: David Gray & Bob McBride, 1982 | 0m | |||
11 | Cosmic Corgi
"A right royal route". Start at the short corner 7m right of 'Minder Binder'. FA: David Gray, 1983 | 10m | |||
10 | Ejection
Climb the twin cracks 8m right of Cosmic Corgi. FA: Robert Stow & Martin Cook, 1982 | 10m | |||
11 | Rash
The left facing corner, 3m right of Pot Holed. FA: David Gray, 1983 | 12m | |||
Hunter Valley Watagans Monkey Face Upper Crag | |||||
11 | ★ Eject
Start as for Perpetual Poet, but continue up the crack line. FA: Rob Wallace, Darrin Gray & David Gray, 1983 | 24m | |||
10 | Diagonal Crack
Climb the short diagonal crack 6m right of Psychopathic Gardener. FA: David Gray & Bob McBride, 1982 | 12m | |||
Hunter Valley Watagans Monkey Face The Wild West | |||||
11 | Pure and Simple
Climbs the corner 1m right of 'Foot loose and Fancy Tree' to a set of ring bolt anchors at top of crack at 10m. FA: David Gray, 1982 | 9m | |||
10 | Suburbia
The scungy crack / groove line 8m right of 'Pure and Simple' to a bulging conclusion. FA: David Gray, 1983 | 7m | |||
11 | Awkward and Unusual
Start below a fist/offwidth crack 25m right of Suburbia. Climb the steep wall then struggle up the crack. FA: David Gray & Dan Rogers, 1982 | 10m | |||
Hunter Valley Watagans Monkey Face Rubble Box | |||||
10 | Disneyland
This is the deep corner/gully behind a large tree 50m left of Xanado. FA: Paul Smith, Bruce Donaldson, James Cowmeadow & Jenny Anderson, 1983 | 15m | |||
Hunter Valley Watagans Monkey Face The Ridge | |||||
10 | Corner crack
Left facing corner with hand crack 5m right of SOH. Tree belay. FA: David Gray & Vanessa Wills, 2017 | 7m | |||
Hunter Valley Watagans Monkey Face South Face | |||||
11 | Holden
Climb the right hand line in the square cut groove. FA: David Gray, 1983 | 10m | |||
Hunter Valley Watagans Tomteland | |||||
10 | ★ New Arrivals
Very pleasant corner with slabby ramp. Lower-offs. FA: Michael Moore, 12 Set 2020 | 10m | |||
Hunter Valley Watagans Gate Crag Central Buttress | |||||
11 | Gulching
| 10m | |||
Hunter Valley Watagans Rope Rd The Main Line | |||||
10 | Shit Shoot
Wide chimney / gully FA: George Fieg (solo), 1989 | 15m | |||
Hunter Valley Watagans Rope Rd The Amphitheatre | |||||
11 | Mad Max
| 5m | |||
Hunter Valley Watagans Rope Rd Forgotten Walls | |||||
11 | ★ Three Musketeers
Easy corner with large tree at half height, to lower-off below the roof FA: Remo Meyer & Tara Wingfield, 1989 | 20m | |||
Hunter Valley Watagans Mt Sugarloaf Main Line | |||||
11 | No Way Baby
| 17m | |||
11 | It's only for sheep
| 17m | |||
11 | Egotistical Banana Roof (Direct)
| 15m | |||
10 | The Groper
| 20m | |||
Hunter Valley Watagans Mt Sugarloaf East Face | |||||
10 | Calliban
| 10m | |||
Hunter Valley Watagans Mt Sugarloaf The Summit | |||||
11 | Atmosphere Exit
| 15m | |||
11 | Exit Stage Left
| 12m | |||
Hunter Valley Watagans George's Road Main Cliff | |||||
10 | Shear Delight
FA: Darrin Gray & Kevin Walker, 1987 | 15m | |||
Hunter Valley Port Stephens Scout Wall | |||||
11 | ★ Rock Craft
The easy slab on the right. FA: Tim Haasnoot, 2012 | 10m | |||
10 | ★ Seal Spotting
| 9m | |||
10 | Jigsaw
Start off ledge. Up vague crack system. Carrot top anchor. FFA: Amy Halligan, 18 Ago 2014 | 8m | |||
Hunter Valley Port Stephens Morna point South Wall | |||||
11 | ★ American Pig"tales"
The left most route on the black slab. Can only be done in very low seas. Easy climbing up the juggy slab. There is also a trad line that exists right of the bolts, straight up to the lower off. FA: Mary Ellen Kustin, 2004 | 10m, 3 | |||
Hunter Valley Port Stephens Skate Park Small Wall | |||||
10 | Chimney
FA: Jason Piper, 2002 | 7m | |||
Hunter Valley Port Stephens Skate Park Half Pipe | |||||
10 | ★ Keloid
| 8m | |||
Hunter Valley Port Stephens Treatment Plant Plant 1, The Sunny Side | |||||
11 | ★ Borborygmi
R facing corner 2m R of PA. Mantle to start then up crack. Good pro and nice moves for grade. FA: V Wills, 2004 | 9m | |||
Hunter Valley Port Stephens Treatment Plant Plant 2, The Dark Side | |||||
11 | ★ The Cheese Grater
| 10m | |||
10 | Cutting The Cheese
| 9m | |||
Hunter Valley Port Stephens Tomaree Head Black Slab | |||||
10 | Death Alley
| 50m | |||
Hunter Valley Bulahdelah Fieg's Overhang Fiegs Right Wall | |||||
10 | Diagonal ramp
A way of access to upper tier. Can be soloed though rock a bit soapy. Some trad gear helps. Start right of large tree at hand sized crack then left up ramp.Go past anchors above SF, and continue to Sky Pilot. FA: J Wilde | 20m | |||
Hunter Valley Bulahdelah Black Wall Major | |||||
11 | ★ Unknown 1
Starts 5m left of Black Groove. Fun first 3 clips then tapers off for the remaining first half. Second half starts with another small vertical section and tapers off again to the anchors. Need 70m+ rope to lower off! Need 11 draws + 2 for anchors | 35m, 11 | |||
11 | Unknown 2
Starts 10m left of Black Groove. Need 70m+ rope to lower off! Need 12 draws + 2 for the anchors. | 35m, 12 | |||
11 | ★ A slab in the face
5m left of FCKF up clean slab on U bolts Tracciata: John Hollott FA: John Hollott, 1 Apr 2019 | 15m, 8 | |||
Hunter Valley Bulahdelah Chiusa West side Alum mountain Boiler wall | |||||
10 | Thunder Bolt
Start from toe of arete and up. Hex bolts. FA: J Wilde | 16m, 7 | |||
10 | Thunder Bolt (Variant)
Start from platform and step right and up staying left of arete until final moves. Hex Bolts. FA: John Wilde, 2012 | 12m, 6 | |||
Hunter Valley Bulahdelah Chiusa East side Alum mountain Tea wall | |||||
10 | Brown Nose
Crack at left side of chasm to tree, then continue up arete with little gear to anchors of BB/A. FA: Unknown | 15m | |||
Hunter Valley Bulahdelah Chiusa Engineers Arete | |||||
10 | Falcon
Start at right hand end of Engineers wall on top of boulder in gully. Diagonal crack goes up and right to belay on tree on ledge. FA: D Gray & V Wills, 2013 | 20m | |||
Hunter Valley Newcastle Awabakal | |||||
10 | ★ Carrot practice slab
Designed to introduced fledgling climbers to outdoors Tracciata: Jason Piper | 6m, 3 | |||
Hunter Valley Newcastle Glenrock Lagoon Waterfall Area | |||||
10 | Carrot Top
Up on ledges passing carrots to tree belay. Beware of the loose block. FA: Luke Yerbury, Giu 2020 | 8m, 3 | |||
11 | One, Two, Umm, Three!
Follow the carrots up the broad arete. Move to good stance, clip, repeat. Nice beginner lead. FA: Luke Yerbury, Giu 2020 | 8m, 4 | |||
Hunter Valley Gloucester Gloucester Buckets Water Course Slabs | |||||
10 | Off Course
| 23m | |||
Northern Tablelands Dangars Gorge Dangars Falls | |||||
11 | Dreadnought
Start: In the corner to the left of the orange pillar. This climb was put up by three climbers who became lost while attempting to do Action. The corner has a lot of loose rock. Not recommended. As for Action from pitch 2 onwards.
2-5. 104m Traverse left along obvious ledge, then up up and away...as for Action (see next route). FA: N.Hughes, N.Beynon & J.Street, 1970 | 150m | |||
10 | Kneecap
Start: At the base of a ramp below first pool opposite the main falls
FA: M.Thomas & V.Galer, 1966 | 80m | |||
Northern Tablelands Dangars Gorge Mihi Falls | |||||
10 | Rumble Gully
Start: At the bottom of the second gully to the left of the pool below the major falls.
FA: B.Harden & D.McLean, 1965 | 90m, 5 | |||
10 | Variant Start To Rumble Gully
Start: In gully right of RG. Up 7m then up right crack 10m traverse 5m (which way?) then after this wandering, over slight overhang to belay. FA: D.McLean (second did not follow), 1965 | 30m | |||
11 | Zig Zag
Start: An appropriate name. In the chimney Start: A crack on a wall in the watercourse above the lower pool, to the right of Deception. below the pool. Up narrow chimney, then traverse right, along ledge, then up, traverse left, then right and up line of weakness. Traverse left and scramble to top. FA: D.McLean & B.Harden, 1965 | 33m | |||
Northern Tablelands Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Central climbing areas Car Park Boulder | |||||
10 | The Golden Legion of Cleaning Women
Start: Somewhere (?) on a boulder 200 m downstream of Pink Freud. FA: M. Peck (solo), 1982 | 15m | |||
Northern Tablelands Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Central climbing areas Hope Buttress | |||||
10 | Nirvana on Tap
Start: 2m left of Yuppie. A hard start. Muscle up start, then cruise to horizontal crack, traverse left to ledge. Tree belay. FA: Ed Sharpe & Brian Birchall, 1980 | 7m | |||
Northern Tablelands Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Central climbing areas Motorhead Buttress | |||||
10 | Motorhead Madness
Start: The corner to the left of the thin roof crack. Up corner crack to top. FA: B. Haliburton & Neil Crabb, 1988 | 8m | |||
Northern Tablelands Gara Gorge Western Gara Gorge Nettle Buttress | |||||
11 | Wild Fire
Start: At groove that seems to disappear into the mank. Straight up the crack, take the right groove at 21m, up bottle neck to a large ledge. FA: Al Stephens & Jill Kelman, 1975 | 33m | |||
Northern Tablelands Gara Gorge Western Gara Gorge Persian Carpets The Carpet | |||||
10 | Flakey Pastry
Start: A clean black strip up the low angle slabs up and left of ‘Stop In The Name Of Love’ on the Persian Carpets. About 15m right of ‘Ataxerxes’. Up the black strip of slab with no protection. FA: Russell Chudleigh, 1985 | 35m | |||
Northern Tablelands Bakers Creek Waterfall climbing | |||||
11 | Ammon
The climbs are described in an anti-clockwise direction when facing the falls. Start: A crack on a wall in the watercourse below the pool. 15m. Up the crack FA: R.Dixon & D.Gallimore, 1961 | 15m | |||
11 | Can’t Decide
Start: 1m. right of the main water course. The smooth slabs. 30m. Straight up the smooth slabs. FA: D.Mills & J.Street, 1969 | 30m | |||
10 | Fungicide
Start: Possible only during drought. At the base of the main water chute.
FA: B.Harden & M.Thomas, 1965 | 40m, 2 | |||
11 | Normacide
Start: About 6m right of the corner, as for Bakercide.
FA: D.Mills & D.McLean, 1966 | 60m, 2 |