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1 - 100 di 176 vie.

Grado Via Stile equipaggiamento Popolarità
Bungonia Gorge North Wall - Main
18 Operation Zucchini

Start at the extreme left hand end of the North Wall below a water polished buttress with a small roof at 10m. This is about 200m downstream of the red track. Climb to the roof and get some threads. Pull over this and up to a tree belay.

FA: Tony Barten & Mike Peck, 1986

Trad 30m
Bungonia Gorge South Wall - Main
18 Pulsar

Nice low angle trad route with mostly good gear. Should be more popular - possibly the best easy trad route in the gorge?

  1. 20m (18) Bridge across from the large boulder until the subtle corner crack can be gained. Up this until it ends, then traverse left to flake and up it to left end of small ledge and rap/belay bolts.

  2. 25m (18) Continue up trad protected corner crack until it ends then step left and delicately up to a small tree and bizarre but bomber rap anchor.

FA: Phil Georgeff, Bill Begg & Matt Madin, 1985

Trad 45m, 2
18 Startrek

The grotty slab next right.

Trad 50m
18 AID:A1 Old and Grey

(18M1). "See topo" they said......this route isn't shown on The Crag topo! Details unsure, however a likely situation is that it shares the start of Red Heat before traversing right, sharing the end of the first pitch of Evolution. Keep going past Evolution's belay to to bolted belay 10m right on the same ledge (shared with Jump Master and 'The Bridge to Total Freedom'). Up the next pitch and a half of Reason for Man (passing a couple of bolts), before traversing left back across 'The Bridge'[724942089] and into Red Heat for a pitch or so to gain the large 'Evolution cave'. 'Old and Grey' then traverses left a pitch to join Scorpion to the top of the wall. Note that Old and Grey predates all the other routes on this wall. A great effort for the time, but unlikely to appeal to anyone sane these days.

FA: Ian Brown & Don Fletcher, 1977

Artificiale 300m
Bungonia Gorge South Wall - Phantom Menace Wall
17 Wicket

Short access pitch to reach Jabba the Slut & Death Starred starting at rap anchors above Polenta Pumper on Big Greenie ledge. Old FH, sling around tufa and new FH through steep bit. An orange fixed line hangs over the lower part and then heads left via the start of The Force.

FFA: Neil Monteith, Matt Shultz & Lee Cujes, 2012

Sportiva 10m, 3
Bungonia Gorge Reflux Crag
17 Mumbo number 5

2 bolts up the slab and to the base of crack and then up the obvious crack, back right to lower offs.

Trad mista 10m, 2
17 Blue Rock Party

5m right of the arete project is another punchy little sport route.

Sportiva 10m
17 Finger Pockets

Left line on the slabby arete down and left of the cave, sharing the first two bolts with Unknown 1. Stick clip the 1st hanger and a bit run-out on the slab. Single carabiner lower off (second anchor bolt needs a hanger).

Sportiva 8m, 4
18 Unknown 1

Righthand line up the pumpy arete, sharing the first two bolts with Finger Pockets. The grade is a bit of a guess. Single lower off and requires a careful down climb to clean due to dramatic swing possibility.

Sportiva 10m, 5
17 Captain Caveman

Juggy, left-trending line of holds, starting just right of the through-the-cliff cave on its eastern side (climber's left). Difficult start for the grade, even if the tree is 'on-route'... Great variety through the pitch and rewarding views. Good rings at the top. Can be top roped.

Sportiva 14m, 7
17 Limestone Cowboys

Ascends the western side (climbers right) of the walk-through cave, starting on its right.

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2009

Sportiva 12m, 6
18 Angry Ants

Starts at twin cracks. Crux is high above the third bolt as you move up to the rings.

Sportiva 10m, 3
17 Solar Fix

Start just below the S shaped gum tree. Be prepared for committing moves all the way to the top.

FA: Simon Vaughan

Sportiva 12m, 6
Bungonia Gorge SRC Crag
18 BB

Marked start behind two black boys. Up the corner to the top of a block, then the vertical water chute (crux), being careful with gear (#4 camalot is handy). At the top of the chute step delicately right and continue up the slab (runout and ledge fall potential), diagonally right to the chossy corner and a ledge (can setup hanging belay here if rope drag is getting too much) . Short wall above this to top.

Trad 50m
18 BB Double Dogleg Variant

Start at the nice looking arete about 8m right of BB (4m left of CR). Head up the easy arete to the crappy yellow rock. From here traverse 10m left under the smooth bulge, over the grass tree, and across to join BB at the corner. As for BB to the top.

This route is exceptionally wandery and not recommended without double ropes and lots of extension of gear. The original intention was to tackle the bulge above the yellow rock directly, but the first ascentionist got scared and bailed left, making for an even scarier ascent notable for stupendous self-inflicted rope drag.

FA: Peter Monks, 1998

Trad 45m
17 Red in the Shed

Start and finish as for Hollow Flake, connecting the cracks through the obvious weaknesses to the right. There’s good gear to be had, so commit to the slab

FA: Michael Houghton, 6 Ago 2023

Trad 20m
17 Hollow Corner

Starts up the obvious left hand crack. Work your way up the corner until you reach a horizontal break that heads out towards a large black boy. From here its straight up to top out. The large blocks half way up the corner sound hollow. I dont think you could possibly move them, but it does sound a little un-nerving.

FA: Mike Law Smith, crew & 1980s-1990's?

Trad 25m
17 The Crack

The obvious crack in the middle of this great little outcrop. Natural protection,fixed rope to belay off (Installed 2018).

FA: Mike Law Smith, crew & 1980's-1990's

Trad 20m
Nerriga The Gym and Environs Mexico Wall
18 Wetback

FA: Brogan Brunt & Andrew Bull

Sportiva 9m
Nerriga The Gym and Environs Flintstone Slab
18 Barnie Rubble

Left line

FA: Mike Peck & Pat Cotter

Sportiva 20m
Nerriga old wool north Late Shift Ledge
18 Savage Bliss

Slab with solid pebbles. Shares DRBB with Holy Shit It's a Cat.

FA: rod, 2006

Sportiva 10m, 3
17 Holy Shit It's A Cat

Three RB to shared DRBB. Tends left through Pockets.

FA: KM, 2006

Sportiva 10m, 3
18 Ultra Thin For Improved Sensation

Obvious bulge to DRBB

FA: Rod Wills, 2006

Sportiva 10m, 4
18 Ribbed For Her Pleasure

FA: Rod Wills, 2006

Sportiva 10m, 4
Nerriga old wool north Slab Gully
17 d
Sportiva 8m, 4
17 c

Up the slab, using some key pebbles at half height, to a tricky stance immediately below the third bolt.

Sportiva 8m, 3
17 b

Thin moves to gain the crack line.

Sportiva 8m, 3
17 a
Sportiva 8m, 3
Nerriga old wool north West Side
18 Off Ramp

Easily up ramp to stance, then up through bulging off-width. 4.5 or larger Camelots useful.

FA: Keith Bell & John Wilson

Trad 16m
18 Thirty Foot Smurfs

Up the dead end gully just past Sponge Bob Wall. Starts through caves. 6 UB to DUBB

FA: KM, 9 Apr 2017

Sportiva 18m, 6
Nerriga old wool north Austin Powers Ledge
18 Cletus the Slack-Jawed Yokel

Start left of buttress. Climb through huecos to DCB. BEWARE left chain has fracture.

FA: Gavin Oliver

Sportiva 20m, 7
17 Unknown

Up the corner crack, protect with small wires

Trad 15m
Nerriga old wool north Wig & Pen Slab
17 Offensive Rack

Up pebbles to halfway ledge, then middle of blank slab above.

FA: KM, 2005

Sportiva 12m, 5
The Monastery Roped 1
18 Chas 1

Far left line, trending left. Run out.

Sportiva 8m, 3
18 Middle of face.

Well spaced bolts in centre of the wall.

Sportiva 9m, 3
The Monastery Roped 2
17 Tree Huggers Delight

start left of the tree. Use the tree for as long as your legs can reach. Pull up the ledges to a tricky top. Can you do it without the tree?

Tracciata: Matt Tranter

FA: Matt Tranter & Adam Rabjohns, 2019

Sportiva 10m, 4
Wingello Gulp Road Orange Tower (and environs)
18 Beatrice the Kelpie

Start: Start in dark alcove/corner. Take full rack of cams, including something big. Up to foot-ledge with sapling at 3m, then sustained layback up flake corner. Crack widens towards top. Continue up to ledge with tree.

Rap off this.

Start: 20m past big orange pinnacle.

FA: Adam Herdman

Trad 40m
17 Miriam

Starts 2m left of 'Jimmy Joe' on Orange Leaning Tower. Up juggy scoops past 7 rings. Step right to reach Crack of 'Jimmy Joe' after last ring. Cruise up crack to anchors. Take a couple of small 1 and 1.5 Friends and some 2.5 to 4 Friends.

FA: Gavin Murray

Trad 25m
Wingello Gulp Road Noli Ne Tangere Wall
18 Honey Pot

Stright up thin face, onto slab then up. 7 RB's to lower offs.

Start: 5m lt of TGD.

FA: Renato Bombala, 2007

Sportiva 18m, 7
Wingello Gulp Road San Pedro Wall
17 Chacaltaya

The 1st route on 'San Pedro' Terrace.

Start: Ascend the ramp up to the launch pad or come in from the right and do the "Bard traverse".

FA: Hawkman, 2007

Sportiva 20m, 8
18 El Alto

The left most route. Up the slab and out the corner to anchors just under lip of roof.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2007

Sportiva 12m
18 Saturday Night Fever

Start 4m right of NHJT. Directly up thru series of cool slabby mantles. 4 RB to finish under roof on shared anchor with NHJT.

FA: Bundy, 2008

Sportiva 12m, 4
Wingello Gulp Road Rave Cave
18 Gello Wrestling

Start in corner 15m left of the actual Rave Cave. Climb corner crack to rest. Continue tentatively up wall passed a number of spaced bolts and a badger or two.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2007

Sportiva 25m
17 Superior Physics

May raise a few eyebrows. A warm up of sorts. The short slab bolted on lead on the very left side of cave. Climbable in all weather.

FA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2007

Sportiva 9m
Wingello Gulp Road Nubigena Wall
18 Latin Whispers

Bouldery thin start, to some reach moves on big holds. 3 RB's to lower offs. 2m left of diagonal crack.

FA: Rod Wills, 2007

Sportiva 10m, 3
17 Survivalism

1m right of F, trending right following line of bolts. 4 RB's to lower offs.

FA: Rod Wills, 2007

Sportiva 12m, 4
18 Tom Tom

Climb through weakness and right side of cave over bulge to the top. 5 RB's to lower offs.

FA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 2000

Sportiva 12m
Wingello Gulp Road Candy & Supa Fun Happy Walls
18 RocknRoll Roger

Start as for CG to break, then directly up the middle of wall.

FA: Bundy, 2008

Sportiva 18m
18 Elektrobank

Start at short seem. Head up seem then tend rightward up wall to anchors as for BL

FA: Bundy, 2008

Sportiva 12m
17 sMile High Club

This route required more battery power to bolt than the hubble telescope has ever used! Start: Just right of the Off width corner. Climb slab past 4 bolts to reach flake. Continue up wall past a few arête moves to gain anchors under roof. There is a decent link up that starts up Ectasia for a few bolts then steps left and finishes up SHC and goes at about 20.

FA: Adrian Child

Sportiva 20m
18 Drank the Slab

Drank the slab,

Drank the slab,

Drank the slab that Bon Scott drunk.

'The Slab' to the right of LwC

FA: Bundy, 2007

Sportiva 20m
17 Iceline

The crack line, behind DtS. Finish as for AT P1.

FA: V Wills, 2007

Trad 20m
17 Arc Therapy P1

FA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 2008

Sportiva 24m, 10
18 M1 Austri (batman start)
Artificiale 30m
Wingello Gulp Road Big Poo Environs
18 Half Step

A part route, but OK if you want another 18 to do...Up left of crack to ledge.

FA: VW, 2011

Sportiva 8m, 3
18 Syphilis Lips

Th right arete. Start at arete for full value.

FFA: David Filan, 2012

Sportiva 9m, 4
17 Stuarts Crack

Just right of arete, obvious vertical crack with good holds to its left.

FA: S McElroy

Trad 10m
18 The Guru

Straight up overlap tricky over bulge onto the slab and up to glory.

Start: 1m rt of MP

FFA: Rod Wills, 2012

Sportiva 9m, 3
Wingello Gulp Road The Slabs
17 Desperately Seeking Dave

Up sharp arete over bulge to anchors.

10m left of access Gully.

FA: Brett webb, Mag 2019

Sportiva 8m, 3
18 Moves Like Keith Richards

Up steepish pocketed wall, mantling onto slab and up.

15m right of BBTK.

FFA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 2012

Sportiva 12m, 5
Wingello Gulp Road La Sancta Wall
18 Flesh Eating Superbug

Bouldery thugish climbing up short face.

Start: 2m left of project.

FA: David Filan, 2008

Sportiva 8m, 3
17 Big Love

Fun slab moves up to punchy finish over bulge.

Start: 2m left of SHWYF.

FA: Rod Wills, 2008

Sportiva 20m, 8
17 A Series of Unfortunate Events

Up slab right of big block.

Start: 2m right of BL.

FA: Rod Wills, 2008

Sportiva 18m, 7
18 The Very Ordinary Route

Stick clip high first bolt, up past heart shaped cave onto face.

Start: 5m right of Project.

FA: David filan, 2008

Sportiva 18m, 6
Wingello The Lost Valley The C-Section
17 19yo Team Player

Shared start with BFP, step right onto arete and up delicate slab.

Start: 12m right of previous climb, Right of corner.

Sportiva 13m, 5
17 Redacted 5

Classic bridging and laybacking up corner.

Start: Up corner.

Original name was offensive and was thus changed.

Sportiva 13m, 5
17 Redacted 3

A corner crack on upper ledge. Scramble onto to ledge from either side to start. Rap from tree.

Start: 30m left of GINMD.

Original route name has been identified as being offensive and was thus changed.

Trad 10m
Wingello Frosty Hollow Red Wall
18 I love the smell of Victory in the morning

Open corner.

Sportiva 10m
Wingello Frosty Hollow Sports wall
17 Sponsored by Fybogel
Sportiva 7m
Badgerys Lookout
18 The Intimidator

Short route with some powerful and technical moves. * The last carrot is almost too run out, this note will be removed when extra bolt is added*

Sportiva 10m, 3
18 Ring Rise, Ring Set

Follow bolts up to DBB. 1st bolt is high so make sure your spotter is watching.

Sportiva 11m, 3
18 OCD Top Out

Straight up face between Lay Back Bertha & Twins.

FA: Mike Mander, 29 Lug 2017

Corda dall'alto 10m
18 Cart-wheeling to the Edge of Infinity

Same start as Gravity. Tends left of bolts.Good climbing all the way to the top. You walk off the top so there is no belay rings atm.

Trad mista 20m, 5
17 Wrecked Car Crack

Good climbing up Badgerys Lookouts major corner crack.

Trad mista 20m, 4
Belanglo State Forest The Chopping Block The Chopping Block
17 Bone Machine

Step off the large boulder (or off the ground if you have fingers of steal). Balance up the areve and finish at shared anchors. Short. First route on the small boulder at the bottom of the descent gully

FA: Matt Tranter, 2011

Sportiva 8m, 5
18 Shallow Grave

1m right of the trad crack.Pull over the lip and trend left. The second block. Updated 2017 - harder after a number of key holds pulled off.

FA: Matt Tranter, 2011

Sportiva 11m, 5
18 A Murder of Crows

Off balance, mean and thugish. use anything you like, twist and turn, pull through the bands, finish at the right hand anchors. Start 1 metre right of Shallow Grave.

FA: Matt Tranter, 2011

Sportiva 10m, 6
Belanglo State Forest Red Arm Creek Block 1
18 Crocodile

Start at the far right of the crag in the cool little gully. Up the middle of the little wall. Hard start, cool holds to finish.

FA: Matt Tranter, 2017

Sportiva 14m, 6
18 Project AR

Starting on top of the block. Start up through the ledges into a side pull and some crimps. Lower offs are just over the top.

FA: Adam Rabjohns, Apr 2018

Sportiva 10m, 4
17 Thats Not A Knife

Stem the crack, then move up and out onto the face. Finish at lower offs over the top. Dont be fooled by the double bolts on the face, there is still one more move!

Sportiva 7m, 3
17 Another Shrimp On The Bbq

A fun little climb with plenty of matching on ledges. Finish with bold move to lower offs.

Sportiva 6m, 3
Belanglo State Forest Red Arm Creek South Face
17 I'll Be Back

Great trad climbing up this juggy crack. Finish with a lay back and mantle to a great belay position. Take a few no. 3 cams for setting up belay. Watch some of the smaller edges below lay back may still be a little brittle.

FA: Adam Rabjohns, 22 Ott 2017

Trad 10m
Belanglo State Forest Red Arm Creek Upper Descent Blocks
17 Im The Party Pooper

Clip the first two bolts from the ground to avoid swinging. Heel hook for all you are worth. Avoid anything that is not a massive hold (everything else my well give way!) and thug your way to the top. Enjoyable, surprisingly.

Tracciata: Adam Rabjohns

FFA: Matt Tranter

FA: Matt Tranter, 15 Dic 2017

Sportiva 5m, 4
17 Total Class is Mr Crass

Straight up the middle using cool fins. Starts with a high right hand to pull onto the wall. Keep off the crack to your left

FA: Matt Tranter, Nov 2017

Sportiva 12m, 5
17 Take Care,Mother Bear.

Right hand crack. Pull with difficulty over the mini over hang on snappy holds. Old style wilderness trad route.

Trad 14m
Binalong Radar Range The Tombstones
{US} V0 - 1 To be done

Straight up the front of the boulder using compression slaps.

Boulder 3m
{US} V0 - 1 BreathMonster

The chimney start. Get right inside and go up to the top without using any of the juggy footers around. Actually a bit of a lark.

FA: Tyron Ahern, 2012

Boulder 3m
{US} V0+ Silk Pouches

Up from a needless sit start staying right of the crack line and topping out. Stay away from flake to the right, it could break.

FA: Christopher Lean, 2013

Boulder 5m
Binalong Radar Range Radar Highlands
V0 - 1 Paddy Got Potatoes

Looks easy, doesn't it? Then you realise it's stacked hand and fists to start, with a lovely drop onto a hard granite slab if you do anything wrong, and the crack widens as you go, making it a full offwidth experience with the extra spice of possibly having to roll down a hill if you fall. Easy enough if you layback and avoid using the crack, but around V1 if you go at it full offwidth style.

FA: Ian Carter, 2012

Boulder 4m
{US} V0+ Booark! Mantle!

Up through the face of the boulder left of 'Booark! Jesus!'. Looks very easy but there's not much there and the mantle is techy for the grade.

FA: Ben Davies, 2012

Boulder 4m
Binalong Radar Range Deadies Sector
VB+ - 2 Nude Golf Karting

Sit down, grab the big rail, walk up the boulder. If you just use the slopers it may even be V2.

FA: Ben Davies, 2013

Boulder 2m
17 V2 Alco's Wet Dream

A proud line striking upwards seven metres above the ground and over a roughly 10 metre, wretched fall with a good chance of a roll down the hill afterward. There are no bolts on this climb, and the first ascensionist requests you keep it that way. The lower crack will take some natural protection, but peters out at around the four metre mark. You may be able to fiddle something in above the shaky flake. There's a shaky flake, by the way. Two cruxes - the start and the little rooflet. Don't go left or right at the rooflet unless you want to shake out. This is the main line - start from the ground up a bit of a compression boulder problem, not on top of the boulder in front! Top out, enjoy the mantle.

FA: David Nott, 2012

Corda dall'alto 7m
Binalong Radar Range Tombstone Ridge
{US} V0+ Meat Rat

Fridge hug your way up using both aretes.

FA: David Nott, 2012

Boulder 4m
{US} V0 - 1 Crack Hoer

Straight up the crack. Overhung, but far easier than it looks.

FA: David Nott, 2012

Boulder 4m
{US} V0 - 1 Trish is the Best

Head up the slab.

FA: Trish Parkin, 2012

Boulder 4m
Mount Alexandra Between the First Cave and the Vox Populi wall
18 Corner From Hell

Up obvious corner.

Was previously a trad climb but with dubious pro (and tree belay), now (2012) fully bolted with lower-offs.

FA: David Duke (solo), 2000

Sportiva 15m
18 Pinocchio's Nose

Not too bad, start: 2m left of T, below dirty corner crack.

Up the crack (4 RBs plus natural gear) to tree belay.

FA: Mark Farrel, Cameron Breeze & Mark Pawlutschenko, 1997

Trad mista 18m, 4
Mount Alexandra Vox Populi Wall
17 The Red Room

Start: 2m left of PN.

Haul onto wall, then edge up arete passing 4 RBs. Double RB lower off.

FA: Simon Vaughan & Gavin Murray

Sportiva 16m
17 Dorothy the Dinosaur

Start 4m L of PN. Up past 5 RB's to Lower offs.

The 3rd route from the right, starting at the arête (Red Room).

FA: Mark Farrel, Cameron Breeze & Mark Pawlutschenko, 1997

Sportiva 16m, 5
18 Vox Populi

Fabulous wall and small roof, the best 18 in the area. Start 5m L of TaHT below and left of FH. Up past hangers and small cams or wires in flaring crack to U anchor, starting at a fixed hanger. The 2nd FH has been replaced with a RB, and now climb past U bolt to 2 RB Lower offs shared with 'Silver Fox'.

FA: Garth Miller & Dave Duke, 1992

Trad mista 15m, 4

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