Vie in Southern Tablelands del grado selezionato

Up white stuff to punchy crux, well actually tricky down low as well

First large rock cairn. Up toughish start to a series of stepped overlaps. Anchors halfway up wall at large horizontal break.

A superb direct route to the top of the wall, with a mega second pitch. Similar in difficulty and commitment to Strangeness, but with comfortable belay stances the whole way. Take a single rack (maybe double up on red and yellow camalots), heaps of draws and slings, and double ropes.

1. 20m (20) Start at a honeycombed wall 2m left of a glassy left-facing corner. Up delicately to an excellent horizontal gear slot at 4.5m, then boulder leftwards onto jugs. Up to a pod at 10m (look for a bomber wire in a white slot to the left), clip the high bolt (short climbers should bring one of those reachy-clippy draws) and boulder to easier ground. Belay off threads or trees in an amazing big hole (don't use up too much rope!).

2. 58m (21) Spectacular! 9 or 10 bolts, but rather spicy nonetheless. All the bolts have good clipping holds, which should reduce the stress somewhat. Step rightwards out of the belay and boulder up to a good thread (back clean any gear below the thread to make things easier for your belayer). Wander up steepening ground past bolts and the occasional gear slot. When the bolts run out, trend left slightly to a stance with threads and wires at 50m (optional belay). Step left aiming for a high final bolt, taking care with hollow suspect mega-flakes. Pull over the bulge and up past a couple of cam pockets to a hilarious belay hole. (Using the optional belay allows one to watch the leader through the slightly sketchy stuff at the top of this pitch. The leader can then link into the last pitch.)

3. 45m (15) Shared with Right in the Bunghole. Step left off the belay then wander up easy slab past three bolts and a bunch of gear slots.

Rap down Right in The Bunghole (45m, 25m, 50m).

Large sized choss glazed with micro-choss, utterly petrifying.

1. 20m (19) "Up the thin wall to the big ledge." Nobody can work out where this pitch goes. Nothing in the area looks remotely sensible as a ground up boltless onsight. 80s climbers were tough!

2. 45m (20) Follows discontinuous crack features up dirty rock with a few death-blocks thrown in. The belay/rap is a bunch of archaic slings tied through a massive bombproof thread.

1. 20m (17) Same as Rum, Bum and Gramophones pitch 1. When at the big ledge walk left to belay at the prominent flake.

2. 40m (21) All natural. Climb the flake then traverse left to easier ground. Now straight up to tree belay.

3. 30m (14) Follow ledges and scoops and belay where convenient.

4. 25m (12) Continue rightwards to 5th belay of 'Strangeness and Charm'.

Classic jug pulling in places, wandering and scary in others.

Starts under the right side of a big ledge at 20m, in rather vegetated terrain.

1. 20m (17) Up to belay on right side of big ledge.

2. 45m (21) Ape up some wild jugs for 8m (bomber threads). Step right and move up leaving the steep ground and good holds for tenuous slabbing. Follow a series of snaking grooves (sparse protection) to belay in a recess (thread and sapling).

3. 40m (20) Continue straight up for 4m then left to the buttress. Follow the loose corner system on its left side. Look for a good stance at 40m.

4. 30m (12) Finish more easily to the 5th belay on Strangeness and Charm.

A variant out of the bathtub belay on Strangeness, which makes a good direct finish to Wailing Cockatoo (or if you just want to try something different on your 50th lap of Strangeness).

P1 30m (21) Step right out of the bathtub and follow bolts and gear to mantle left into an aesthetically pleasing giant bunghole belay.

P2 35m (16) Right out of the hole, duck right under the shrubbery, then straight up the fun cruisy slab. Rap station is off to the left where the angle eases way back.

Just right of 'Comet Chaser', a single pitch direct to the 1st belay of 'Strangeness and Charm'. The crux is at the bulge.

Good. If only the corner were 10 times as long.

Start: Start as for 'Strangeness and Charm'.

1. 40m (19) Up Strangeness to ledge and tree, follow it leftwards a few metres to scoop with wires. 'Galactic Wanderer' departs Strangeness here, and trends up and right past a bolt to a double bolt belay.

2. 20m (25) (Or 21M1) Up with care to a bolt at 8m, then slightly left to the overlap and more bolts. Either aid up and left or pull impossible looking moves to the base of the dihedral (the last bolt is hidden behind a bush). Bridge up the corner (wires) to the belay.

3. 50m (21) With care up and right to a bolt, over a terrifyingly poised and dangerous flake. Up past another two bolts and trend leftwards to the belay.

4. 50m (20) Continue a leftward trend aiming for the protruding grass tree above.

The overhanging line.

1. 20m (25) Up past the overhanging block (crux) to gain the tree belay above.

2. 25m (20) Up the wall past a bolt and a series of chicken heads to hanging double bolt belay.

Probably good for sussing out the hard stuff below. Pitch 1 is not great.

1. 50m (19) Start at the very downstream end of the roofs. Up choss to a tree.

2. 35m (20) Scoops cracks and ledge left to tree belay.

3. 30m (17) Leftwards past a tree to a good stance.

4. 30m (16) Traverse left to 2nd belay on 'Jewel Box'.

5. 40m (21) Up 'Jewel Box' for 5m then diagonally left to the 4th belay on 'Coal Sack'.

6. 35m (21) Same as 'Coal Sack' pitch 5.

The next line right with four spaced FHs. Apparently there is no rap anchor so after the last bolt and below the overlap traverse left a long way to rap anchors above Pulsar.

Up the slab past three bolts to ledge and tree.

Can be used as a variant start to Red Supergiant.

1. 40m (21) Up the thin crack and wall to overlap. Follow the line leftwards and up past a fixed peg to a ledge and tree. Now either take the crack above all the way or merge into the left crack. Finish easily up the arete to a good stance with bolts.

2. 25m (17) Move up the right side of the arete and continue trending right to the 2nd belay on Red Supergiant.

An alpine mega classic. Long loose and natural. Finishes at the highest point on the cliff, the Cooee Lookdown. Take plenty of long slings and big friends.

Start: A chipped square marks the start.

1. 45m (20) Delicate moves up the slab to a series of ledges. Move leftwards into the corner and up it. A steep pull onto the ledge leads to the anchors.

2. 45m (20) Up 2m, then follow holds leading right. Continue right to a corner in the overlap (wires). Over this (crux) to easier ground and tree. Trend leftwards, through overlap at 6m, then onto belay 8m above.

3. 50m (16) Left to a corner, up this and through the overlap. Up the ramp to a tree.

4. 50m (12) Scrub bash up the ramp to a tree.

5. 45m (13) Deciding when to move right is tricky. Up for 10m. Move right on ledges, over and across some loose big blocks, moving horizontally right. Belay at the top of a block at the foot of the orange rock with some corners above.

6. 30m (18) Much steeper, but well protected. Step right and up the corner. Over some choss, left a touch then up the next corner to belay.

7. 50m (20) This pitch wanders, is fairly run out, and has a hard pockety start. Beware rope drag. Up over the bulge and trend right. Weave rightwards to avoid the very steep stuff, then step up and trend horizontally left to the splitter crack. Follow this corner up, then step right onto the ramp and set up belay in the cave.

8. 50m (17 M1) (17A1) Scramble rightwards past a large stalactite to the end of the ramp. Drop down and right to a ledge at the base of the corner with the bolt in it. Aid past the bolt to a high #4 friend. This can be freed at grade 23. Pull onto easy ground and up this to a big overhang with large pockets. Move delicately up and rightwards onto the wall. Go up and over right to a #4 tube chock in a neat pocket. Now up the corner to the old lookout.

Storm Front basically runs to the right of Evolution. Nasty loose blocks on ledges, very dirty rock, and vegetation filled cracks are the selling points of this gem. The climb either starts up Evolution, or 5m right (up the horrible hole thing), no idea which start is correct. On pitch 1 there is a 10m wide, delicate, rock arch/flake that you actually climb through (about 40m up, can be seen from the creek bed). "The last two pitches are not recommended" (first ascentionists)....a more objective view might be that the last seven pitches are not recommended!

1. 45m (20) Up the flake?, step left and up to a ledge, traverse 3m left, up, then right through the obvious arch on the right. Now up to the belay.

2. 40m (20) Slightly left to a tree bowl and climb the steep wall at the rear (seriously scary stuff here. Loose blocks, dirty rock, and vegetated cracks). Go to where the crack splits, left is Red Heat, right is 'Storm Front'. Up the right crack and over a block to belay on nuts.

3. 40m (20) Follow up the crack.

4. 40m (17) Up the easy crack above to big cave (probably the same as Red Heat here).

5. 35m (20) Go left from the left side of the cave on a rising traverse left to a ledge.

6. 40m (21) From the right edge of the ledge, go straight up to a bolt and nuts, then up and right (crux) to a tree belay.

7. 30m (10) Continue easily to the top.

Start about 30m upstream of Polenta Pumper. Scramble up easy flowstone to small ledge covered in vines. Sketchy flowstone choss for 6m to reach crack, then up major corner to belay ledge. Not recommended until bolts added to start.

Jabba the Slut, stopping at the ringbolt under the roof. A good warm up if you get dragged up here on a 5 degree day.

To the right of Gilding The Lily. Finishes just under the roof at half height.

The top is down and right (facing out) of the top of 'In the Realm of the Senses'. Rap in from 'In the Realm of the Senses' anchor, but using a directional bolt on the nearby arete to get to double rings at the base.

Up a dirty loose crack on natural gear and then some nice face climbing (ring bolts).

Start on the face and right side of the arete, behind a large tree. Very high first bolt - stick clip recommended. Upper third is a bit odd... Nice climbing to be had direct up the bulge, but the third bolt is actually hidden down and right behind a small bush and the route finishes with a traverse across to the rings on Angry Ants.

The contrived line of bolts furthest left, just left of the arete.

Marked start. Good climbing throughout (especially up the arete up high), but with a low crux with tricky protection.

This routes starts in a water runnel directly below three holes.Climb up and right towards the steel hanger. Then continue up to top out. A #2 Camalot is handy for the crux move below the steel hanger

Sit starting on same block as Dabling Bottom. RH to good crimp, rock up on heel to triangular pocket to top out.

Sit start on arete. And top out

Sit start and straight up.

Sit start and straight up.

Sit start straight up.

Sit start straight up.

Sit start straight up.

Stand start and up the slab.

Sitstart

Sit start with right hand in slot.

Sit start with left hand in slot and using right arete.

Sit start and straight up blocks to top out.

Sit start and straight up the wall.

Stand start and up the right arete.

Stand start on the head high edges. Head up trending left. Escape right off the ledge.

Approach: After walking through the gap as described in the area approach, climb is located on the slabby face directly to the right.

Stand start with RH on the arete and a LH pinching a conglomerate rock. Head up the arete on the llft side.

Climb the vague slopey crack from a sit.

Compression sit start, head straight up and over.

Sit start under the overhang on jugs. Up and slightly left to mantle.

Hard sit start. Straight up.

Stand start with hands on large horizontal rail. Up Right on sharp holds to finish on obvious high pocket and mini jug.

Stand start on big holds up to comfy undercling then finish on big holds to the right. Undercling and finish holds seep and stay wet for some time after rain.

First route done on the crag. Start at the left hand end of the wall at a bolt belay. Up to horizontal break (friend), then roof and wall past four more bolts.

Another great wall climb (well protected). #2 Friend in break. Tricky moves through bulge (bolts) with #1 Friend higher up.

Pumpy arete with plenty of bolts

Start further right and traverse upwards to the ledge. Up the heucos above

Straight up the wall from the start of Viva

Middle line and quite sustained

Approach to wall above (Sumo Dancer) 2 bolts ?

Bouldery start tending left through overlaps

Start on narrow rib

Start as for PftP, after the second tend right before heading up.

just right of AO

Around the corner, the far left line

4 FH to shared DRBB

Pull onto the steep wall and clip bolt, trend right following more bolts to DBB.

A couple of thin moves mid height.

sit start on rock at right end of cave. low traverse staying below jugs on shelf. sit finish on rock.

a novel problem. stand on slabby section

sit start on left end of wall. follow line of pockets to match on wide slopey pocket

Sloper corner arete around the corner from Bulbous. Up from the jug to top out left of the arete.

Right of Suck It Mr Phillips, just right of the wet streak. Nice moves up to the sloper rail finish. Jump off. Horrific topout not recommended.

Stand start and straight up.

Stand start and straight up.

Stand start and straight up to a high finish.

Stand start over large tree toot and straight up on jugs.

Stand start and straight up. After the 2019-2020 summer fires a large log is balanced right over the top of the crack necessitating topping out to the side.

Stand start and straight up.

Sit start and up left to finish on the big ledge.

Sit start and up right to finish on the big ledge.

Sit start and up along ramp to top out.

Stand start and straight up.

Sit start and straight up.

Sit start and straight up.

Sit start and up left of the prow

Stand start up right of the prow.

Stand start and straight up.

Sit start and straight up.

Sit start and straight up.

Stand start and straight up. Start by juggy hole then up through the obvious dinnerplate.

Stand start and straight up.

Stand start and straight up.

Stand start and straight up.

Sit start and up the arete.

Start at the The flying monk pockets then head up the diagonal line of good holds to the right. Finish matched on the final hold of The flying monk.

Obviously climbed before, please rename/regrade as required.

2 metres right up the gully. Follow tufa to ironstone ledge, balance with difficulty to next ledge. Throw to sloppy top.

Start: where access gully hits ledge. Climb long wall past cave to anchors.

Slabby route 3m right of RR. Fingery and sustained.

Left of Cafeine on the darkish rock. Climb thru the smiley to the eye, up and over right. Under small roof to link into Cafeine.

The leftmost climb on this wall of gold. Bouldery start (the block is off) to gain wall, couple more moves, clip, then its all over. Yay !