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Wakehurst Parkway Steep Side

Flora e fauna: Ross River Fever Warning

https://www.northernbeaches.nsw.gov.au/council/news/precautions-needs-to-reduce-risk-ross-river-fever

Take care and use mosquito repellent around Narrabeen and Elanora Heights crags as there has been a warning about Ross River Fever

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Limitazioni per l'accesso ereditato da Narrabeen

NOTE: When accessing 'Steep Side', please use the newly installed stile and do not damage the fence where it attaches to the rock. There was a recent encounter with Northern Beaches Council, so please exercise respect and discretion.

And don't park contrary to the signs in the RMS inspection bay.

©

Avvicinamento

NOTE: Please use the newly installed stile rather than damaging the fence. There was a recent encounter with Northern Beaches Council about this, and so respect and discretion is essential if we don't want to risk access to this spot.

Approach from Sydney side:

About 2km North of the traffic lights at Oxford Falls is a Heavy Vehicle Inspection Bay - the sign reading Heavy Vehicle Inspection Bay 400m marks the first place to park and provides the most visibility for the long sweeping turn, the crag is located across the road from this parking spot. (Parking A on the map)

Approach from the Narrabeen side:

After passing the Academy of Sport on Wakehurst Parkway you will pass a Heavy Vehicle inspection bay on your right - parking just after this is the best parking for the crag(opposite the 400m to Heavy Vehicle Inspection Bay signage). (Parking C on the map)

The crag access is about 100m further on the left. People often park here but parking is limited and visibility is very poor when pulling out in front of hoon traffic coming around the long sweeping bend. (Parking D on the map)

Walking down the road towards Sydney on the left hand side, you will come across a chainlink fence, looking left at the start of this chain link fence you will see a small stile that looks like a wooden T going through the fence - use this to climb over the fence and then follow the obvious single track that heads up the hill for about 50m to the crag. Climbs are described left to right, facing the cliff. The first climb you will see at the top of the track is Oozing Confidence(20).

Alcuni contenuti sono stati forniti sotto licenza da: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

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Left route on wall 20m L of Pocket Direct, easiest route at the crag?

FA: Jeffrey Crass, Mikl Law & Johannes Reisert

Right route of wall 20m L of Pocket Direct. Thin start

FA: Mikl Law, Jeffrey Crass & Johannes Reisert

Start 2m L of Blogg's Eliminate, straight up to clip last bolt of Jeff's Easy Sandbag.

FA: Michael Law, 2018

STart as for Bloggs Eliminate and step left after start.

FA: Jeffrey Crass, 2018

Start 28m left of the track. Through bulge and up, originally done solo with a long-gone tree for aid but now clipping bolts through the bulge

FA: Michael Law, 1982

FFA: Jeffrey Crass, 2018

Pumpy fun, start up Yawning Yowie and keep traversing left (Massive hidden pockets!) and layback up left edge of cave. Drop a grade or 2 if you get into the cave.

STart in small orange groove 6m L of Ready Set Go, 15m L of Flack, and 30m L of where the track hits the cliff. Hard move to start then up arete.

FA: Jeffrey Crass, 2018

Corners.

Start: 10 right of previous or 18m left of track.

21, every move! Wall left of PL/LD. Either boulder start on pockets , or easier (19?) bridge up corner to break.

FA: Jeffrey Crass, 2018

Tracciata: Jeffrey Crass, 2018

Good looking face but looks harder than 22. Start: 2m L of Flack and stay right (following bolt direction). Shared lower off with Flack.

Nice warm up, 3 U's and a lower-off

Start: 8m right again or 10m left of track. Initialled.

FA: Mikl Law, 1985

A nice little finger/hand crack running up, near the corner next to F, up to ledge then over roof to top out.

FA: Chris, 2 Feb 2015

Seams 8 m R of Flack, just left of where the track hits the cliff. Layback up and finish out L

FA: Mikl Law & Johannes Reisert

Start: Obvious crack when coming up the track. usually wet.

Flakes a few meters R of where the track hits the cliff. Up flakes and right to extension up wall. Marked FG

Start: 5m right again. Has bolts!

Start: 15m right of the track. Diagonally left to arete.

Start: As for Apyla but straight up (rebolted 2018).

Start: Corner!

Start: as for KK but right and up wall past bolts.

Exposed roof swinging on good jugs. Start in orange rock 15m R of Areeba. Right side of cave and traverse L along lip. Easiest to lean right and set up lower off from rings on top of right-hand route (Jeff's Wall)

FA: Michael Law, 2018

Fun wall, start as for Airtime Traverse and straight up

FA: Jeffrey Crass, 2018

Straight up over bulge and up layback seam. (Batman start if wet). New bolt has tag but is set. Start: 1m left of JM initials

FA: Daniel Webster & Dale Tweedie

The obvious crack. Traverse in from the left to get to the start.

Step right and up through scoop and wall (The spike is a bit drummy, was once a sling runner, keep the belayer away from under it) (Batman start if it's wet). High clip and step around right on hidden holds, up slab to high double Ubolt anchor. Start: At the JM initials (which isn't where JM starts). PS, this isn't as good as the Unfair Dismissal at the Narrabeen Slabs

FA: Dale Tweedie & Daniel Webster

A variety of cool moves, extra Ubolt recently added below roof. Dyno the start and head up. Start: 15m right of JM.

FA: Mikl Law, 1985

Campus up undercut as for Ms Wilkins head up and right under big roof and finish up Technorabble.

It goes to the second last bolt before Technorabble at grade 24/25.

OPEN PROJECT

Punchy! Steep iron cross move left followed by big cranks, original start hold has exploded so either big dyno or start to the right. Follow bolts to anchor (rebolted 2018). 3rd bolt is in a scoop and biners sit funny, extend if you're paranoid. Note that the 23 version of this heads left around the bulge, throwing for the sloper in the back of the slot.

Ziggy Samways

FA: Craig Martin, 1984

As for Technorabble, but avoids the crux by moving right, you can clip the 4th bolt from the jugs, then up and traverse L to 5th bolt and up.

Start: Corner.

Classic pocket pulling, all U's

Start: Smooth black wall 2m right of the corner. Bolts.

FA: Mikl Law, 1985

This shares the same start up and around the roof as Slap & Tickle, including campussing up on 'unique' holds. Then head straight up the mega yellow streak with fortitude. The original guide said something like 'a full grade harder than S+T', so it's probably 25. Note with interest the orignal grades of these were 21 & 23! An extra bolt was added to the headwall in 2018. One of the finest routes at Narrabeen steeps.

FA: Mikl

Up and right, right to arete and up. Start: As for Image Intensifier. 3 extra bolts now!

FA: Mikl

Start: 4m right of Slap and Tickle. Extra bolts!

FA: Mikl

Start: Right of Pickaxe. Extra bolt!

FA: Mikl

Big roof. Start: Original (easier!) route went up corner (clip first 2 rings of Closeau's Edge) then left to big jug, clip carrot and leap left into roof. New direct start: go up Relax to ledge then right and up to join Original roof, harder All Ubolts now. Wild finish.

FA: Craig Martin, 1986

Start: Corner/Crack.

Wall right of Relax etc. Start in corner and out right, hard rock-over. lean left to clip anchors.

FA: Jeff Crass, 2018

Mmmn!

Up ladder then left through roof and up red wall past huge eye bolts (Galv 12 mm Petzl Collinex?). Lower-off on slab!

FA: Giles Bradbury

One of the best routes in Sydney!Are you ready to get your tilt on? New bolts (1994). Start, up log (as for SSS) then rightwards (put sling through 2nd bolt to avoid leverage on biner) and through roof

FA: Michael Law, 1985

climb blankness R of Tilt. Clip Ubolt on ledge before lurching out into space. Rebolted 2018.

FA: Michael Law, 1988

Do this!

Start: 3m right of Tilt.

FA: Michael Law, 1985

Start in big jug under lip as for Full Tilt then right past slots

FA: Leonard Coyne, 1989

Start: As for W&TS then right into SP.

The direct start to "Septic Penguins"

FA: J Crass, 1988

Start Up Septic Penguins and head diagonally left into Full Tilt.

Start: Right end of the cliff, left of crack. Obvious. Either rap from anchor at the back of the ledge, lower from base of Arete on R (Hectic Penguins). Should continue up Hectic Penguins for the full line.

FA: Mikl, 1983

Arete above septic penguins.Funky and bouldery.

FA: Michael Law, 2018

Cool crack on polished rock. Start 1m R of Septic Penguins, up thin crack to ledge and left to rap anchor. There's a 24 roof sitdown boulder problem through the roof also.

FA: Mikl, 1978

Start: Start up Crack Man Fever, step right and up next crack (bolt in easy chossy bit) to a hard finish.

FA: moss, 1990

Delicious pocket pulling up top. Orange wall above 15m up and right of Septic Penguins. Boulder start and through roof to hard finish, slap right to anchor. Rebolted 2018

FA: Michael Law, 1985

Layback seam 5m Right of Pat the Pig. Best to stick clip 1st bolt. Hidden layback way left on slab. Go far right on top wall to big pockets.

Thin seam 4m R of Roger the Rabbit with a funky finish.

About 25m R of Roger the Rabbit, left of a south facing corner. Up on slopes and through roof to crimpy crux.

FA: Mikl Law, 1990

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Selected Guidebooks more Nascondi

Autore/i: Mike Forward and Peter Balint

Data: 2023

With 2065 bouldering problems ranging from V0-V15 across 57 areas nestled around Sydney, the all new Sydney Bouldering Guide will keep you occupied for years to come. Just because we live in Sydney we'll try not to be biased but honestly this city has some amazing bouldering and usually not more than a few minutes off the road or some even near parks and train stations. There's no need to camp out and trek for hours to get to world class problems, they're right on your door step.

Authors Mike Forward and Peter Balint spent over 7 years putting this guide together and is the first new bouldering guide for Sydney in over 20 years. It's over 350 colour pages including 600+ colour photo tops, crag tops, amazing images and more.

Autore/i: Neil Monteith & Simon Carter

Data: 2021

ISBN: 9780645299908

Featuring 1142 climbing routes located at 24 of the best crags in the Sydney area, this A5 size guide book is super user friendly with easy to use colour cliff topos and access maps. Covers sport and trad climbing at a variety of grades, something for everyone.

Alloggi in zona more Nascondi

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Mar 30 Mag
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