A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Lloyd's Wall (Dry)
12 in Area
- 1.1. Vertical Wall 6 in Area
- 1.2. Middle Section 4 in Area
- 1.3. Far Right of the cliff line 2 in Area
- 2. Index by grade
1. Lloyd's Wall (Dry) 12 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Tutti Bouldering
Lat / Long: -42.305348, 147.380945
descrizione
This vertical wall is on the north facing side of the point to the south of the Warm Up Blocks.
limitazioni per l'accesso
Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline!
http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania
Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website
etica
Crag Stewards
Rock climbers please contact the Crag Steward (oatlands@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag.
Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, Facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high-level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.
Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.
Other
• The operation and use of drones by park visitors on reserved land including national parks is not permitted
• Peregrine Falcons nest from July - December each year. It’s important that climbers don’t climb near active nests during this period. Known sites (non exhaustive) are: Sand River (Far East, The Panopticon), Bare Rock (R of the Boneyard, L of Bisso of Orange), Rocky Cape, Pubic Wall/Duck Reach, Hillwood, Gunners Quoin, Lowdina.
• Please note that Tasmania has notoriously patchy phone reception for particular service providers. Telstra is the most reliable. An emergency Personal Locator Beacon or similar is recommended kit when climbing in remote locations.
• For more information - follow the link below for some local tips + tricks on how to better reduce your impact during your next Tassie climbing holiday https://www.cragcaretasmania.org.au/learn
1.1. Vertical Wall 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -42.305363, 147.380943
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Grendel (sds)
Start just left of the Lloyds engraving on the left hand side of the wall (the obvious left sweeping arc). Sit start at pinch (feet off slab), up via under clings to your left and sharp edges to your right. Top out using good holds at lip. | V4 | ||||
| 2 |
★ Brad Pitt
A big reach to holds in the little corner - the first ascent was by a very tall person reaching across to the top holds, this problem is considerably harder using the lower holds. The low hold has now broken and is bigger, and goes from here at about V8. | V8 | 3m | |||
| 3 |
Looyd's Pitt / 1. V6
Stand start but very reachy to first hold. A crucial foothold has snapped off, making this climb much harder. Grade is unconfirmed. | V6 | ||||
| 4 |
★★★ Lloyd's Dyno (stand)
Dyno to top from good hold | V5 | 3m | |||
| 5 | 4. V? (sds) | ? | ||||
| 6 |
Campbell's Problem V6 (sds)
5m right of Lloyd's Dyno, sitstart up flake, then right and up thin slab | V6 | 4m | |||
1.2. Middle Section 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -42.305413, 147.380785
descrizione
The middle section of the wall forms a high cave.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ 1. Nettle Lover (sds)
Sitstart under roof and climb up onto slab via jugs | V1 | ||||
| 2 |
★ 2. Cardboard Thin (sds)
Sitstart and up into curving undercling | V2 | ||||
| 3 |
3. Itchy and Scratchy (sds)
Start on two small edges around corner, traverse leftwards along rail and into Cardboard Thin | V4 | ||||
| 4 |
4. Al's Highball (highball, sds)
Start at the start of the Nettle Lover traverse and climb up to the high ledge and the top. | V3 | ||||
1.3. Far Right of the cliff line 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -42.305413, 147.380658
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 1. Ren (hang) | V4 | ||||
| 2 | 2. Stimpy (hang) | V5 | ||||
2. Index by grade
| Grade | 
|
Stars | Name | Style | Pop | Area |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| V1 | ★ | 1. Nettle Lover (sds) | 1.2. Middle Section | |||
| V2 | ★ | 2. Cardboard Thin (sds) | 1.2. Middle Section | |||
| V3 | 4. Al's Highball (highball, sds) | 1.2. Middle Section | ||||
| V4 | Grendel (sds) | 1.1. Vertical Wall | ||||
| 3. Itchy and Scratchy (sds) | 1.2. Middle Section | |||||
| 1. Ren (hang) | 1.3. Far Right of the cliff line | |||||
| V5 | ★★★ | Lloyd's Dyno (stand) | 3m | 1.1. Vertical Wall | ||
| 2. Stimpy (hang) | 1.3. Far Right of the cliff line | |||||
| V6 | Campbell's Problem V6 (sds) | 4m | 1.1. Vertical Wall | |||
| Looyd's Pitt | 1.1. Vertical Wall | |||||
| V8 | ★ | Brad Pitt | 3m | 1.1. Vertical Wall | ||
| ? | 4. V? (sds) | 1.1. Vertical Wall |