Vie in Point Perpendicular

Great position and cool climbing.

Start as for 'Mind the Gap'. After placing cam in big pocket, traverse right past one ring bolt to the arete (cams in pocket and in flakes- make sure you have a #2 C3 to protect final crux). Enjoy the view then punch up the arete. Great exposure!

The face left of Whalesong with squillions of carrots - that are very hard to spot from below. Start on the left side of blunt arete at the foot of the buttress. Although generally the rock is excellent on this route, there are many large detached flakes that should have been removed with a hammer by the first ascent team. Be warned - get your belayer to wear a helmet. Don't believe the print guide topo - there is NO lower-off anchor at the top of this climb - just two carrots. You will need to finish up Superliner to get off.

Juggy right facing open-book corner bordering the left side of the Atmosfear Wall. This route seeps for much of the year - with drainage coming down from the pools below the lighthouse

Big, steep and on excellent rock for most of the way. The lower pitches start at sea level and feature amazing orange smooth rock. The upper easy pitch is a great single pitch in its own right with a variety of rock types (from smooth, to pocketed to slightly chossy). You can link pitch 1 & 2 together for one massive 50m pitch (as was done on the first ascent).

1. 37m (25) Start up All Guns Blazing for four bolts then take the left line up the steep imposing wall. Crank endlessly to tiny ledge and double ring belay. You can link this with next pitch if you have the guns and draws.

2. 12m (25) Bouldery moves up and right on delicious smooth rock to more major ledge.

3. 35m (20) Carefully up the brittle undercut start then march up and slightly right through band after band of different rock types. This pitch is quite overhung but juggy most of the way.

Multipitch sport route straight up the guts of the biggest and steepest section of Point Perp. Very sustained climbing on immaculate rock. The first pitch especially is an absolute stunner. It's 90m direct to sea level via free hanging abseil - a 100m rope, or two 50m tied together makes rap access easy (knot change required if using two 50m). Otherwise - fix a 50m rap rope and clip into bolts on the way down to the belay ledge at end of pitch 1. Then use a 70m rope doubled to make it to sea level. Don't attempt the lower pitches if the surf is up!

1. 36m (23) Unrelenting pumper. Starts from sea level at left end of massive steep wall - starting off rock platform. Easy start up jugs to meet right end of rooflet at 10m. Now plow direct up the overhung wall above on mostly big jugs. They won't feel like jugs by the time you finish though! Finish with a spicy runout to small ledge on the left (bring a single bolt plate for this belay). Alternativly continue into 2nd pitch (50m pitch!) 10+ bolts in this pitch.

2. 14m (24) A bouldery little number. Out right from the ledge and over tricky bulge (random FHs) and rightwards on great glossy rock to next ledge and bolt belay. 4 bolts.

3. 36m (23) Undercut start to (shock horror) short bolted corner crack. When this ends pick your way up pumpy pocketed headwall until blistering crimpy crux at smooth orange section. Finish up long section of large sandy pockets. Retire. 13 bolts.

Easier variant to Seahawk's second pitch. From belay ledge climb right clipping first two bolts of Seahawk, then keep traversin right and up white polished wall past two expansion bolts to ledge. Climbed on Neil's wedding day!

Continous steep climbing on mostly big holds. Currently the right most line of bolts on the lower wall. Easy start up jugs then the angle starts to steepen and the holds get smaller. Keep fighting through a pumpy section to jugs. Finish up superb polished rock heading slightly left to double rings on ledge below top pitch of All Guns Blazing.

This ones for you Damo! A long steep pitch of mixed climbing following a weakness and corner system up high. Bring a full rack (doubles of hand to fist size cams and some wires). The first 15m is all trad then once the angle steepens it's spaced ringbolts and trad to the top. Belay off FH and ringbolt with long slings.

A fun multipitch up excellent orange marbled rock. The easiest sport route on the lower cliffs, and conveniently right below the left end of Windjammer Wall. As with any route on the lower cliffs, good conditions are key to enjoyment. Keep an eye out for a breezy, low humidity day and the rock will be glorious. In other conditions it can be damp and slippery! As of June 2013 the final pitch has been partially de-bolted, so you will need to use trad gear on this pitch or finish up one of the plethora of classics on Windjammer Wall. First, get to the base of Windjammer Wall anyway you can (rapping down Man Overboard is probably the best). Walk to the far left end of the crag to where the vegetated ledge ends and a very narrow rock ledge begins (5m left of the base of the route Midnight Lightning and below the route Beside the Seaside). Edge cautiously along ledge for a few metres to find double rap rings below the route Beside the Seaside (p.66 in Climb Point Perp print guide). Rap 45m from these bolts to medium sized rock ledge about 10m above the ocean. There is a single RB to belay from. You will need two 50m ropes. You CANNOT use the anchors at the end of pitch 1 as a midway rap point as they are too diagonal and overhung to reach. The start of this route is actually shared with the start of the 2nd pitch of the old climb Hooray and Up She Rises (p.128 of the Climb Point Perp print guide.)

1. 20m (18) From the single RB belay follow the bolts up and slightly right through a couple of bulges and lots of slopers to small ledge. Double RB belay.

2. 25m (17) Left trending RBs to 'slot' and small bush. Climb past this annoying impasse anyway you can, then left and up to ledge left of Midnight Lightning and double RB belay.

3. 30m (15) Finish up 'Beside the Seaside'. You will need some trad. From above the anchors climb tricky fused corner for a few metres then romp up a series of grey walls and ledges past 2 rings to top of cliff. This was/is a partial retrobolt of Beside the Seaside. Alternatively walk along the Windjammer Wall ledge and exit via Man Overboard or Grey Mist.

Awesome arete. Short, steep and sustained unlike many a Point Perp route. Rap off rings at top of arete 15m SW of Midnight Lightning to small foot ledge. Use first ring and gear as belay. Take lots of 0.75 and 1 cams.

Unpleasant. Start at extreme L end of Ocean Boulevard. Belay off some blocks at the bottom of the obvious buttress. L around the nose, then up, then L to longish ledge. Up middle of wall past flakes. Up corner, then huge flake on L wall. Finish up the crack on the L to avoid the top part of the flake (loose).

First a trad route, never done. Then retrobolted and renamed. All but 2 bolts have been chopped by persons unknown in March 2013. Full trad rack now required! Starts at double ringbolt belay at the furthest you can safely walk left when on the Windjammer ledge.

Great wall route, all gear bar one U-bolt. Start up the obvious flake in the lower wall a few metres left of Hot To Trot's line of rings. Comes complete with excellent arete crack finish. Careful of some hollow blocks on the start and finish. 3 carrots on top.

Line of bolts left of the Montezuma corner, gaining in difficulty the higher you go, to lower-offs (doesn't top out).

The corner. Interesting terrain, fairly sustained with good rock. Take lots of gear from hands upwards, hexes useful. Belay off close wide crack (Camalots #3-5, if you’ve got any left!), or mid-sized cams 6-8m back, or carrots 20m back.

Shady, steep, all bolts and great face moves. Start up the corner as for Montezuma, then follow the rings on the right wall and through a small roof up high. Belay off mid-sized cams 6-8m back, or carrots 20m back.

Great route, shady all day, overhanging, and crazy cool moves. The line of ringbolts that starts up the flake 5m R of Montezuma and 5m L of Turning Of The Tide. Belay off mid-sized cams 6-8m back, or carrots 20m back.

The arête direct, starting on left side (just right of Vertical Romance). 5 U-bolts, optional 2&3 camalot, one U-bolt and then join into last three carrot bolts of Turning of the Tide. Pumpy! Use long runners on the carrots to avoid ropedrag.

The left arete of Windjammer Wall. Incredible climbing up one the best aretes at Point Perp. Climb the arête and the face just to the right past lots of carrot bolts, supplemented by occasional medium sized cams. This was originally climbed onsight with no bolts (!) and was later "accidentally" retrobolted. 2 carrots on top.

Start just right of Turning of the Tide. Up past short corner and numerous breaks (natural gear) to headwall with three carrot bolts and a fixed hanger. Seriously tricky up high. #3 and #4 cams are handy right at the start. Belay off mid-sized cams 6-8m back.

1. Start at base of TOTT and climb up 10m to a semi hanging belay, poor pro. 2) Traverse 30 m right to a RHF corner. 3) Traverse 30 m right and belay from J ledge/corner. 4) Reposition belay to arete 5m right. 5) Traverse trickely 25 m right, belay at MO. 6) traverse 10 m to arete. 7) Traverse 15m to the SAD V-groove. 8) 10 m finish up any route on the face (easiest goes at 18).

Daunting and inspiring trad masterpiece. The left-most thin weakness through the upper headwall. Start 2m L of Icebird. Easily up left facing flake, then juggy wall to final searing seam. Full trad rack from #5 cam to tiny wires. There is an easy section down low with mediocre rock, but adequate protection if you brought the #4-5 cams. Without them your options are either to run it out with a groundfall on the cards, or start up Icebird for 10m then step left.

3 major splitter cracks are the dominant features on the left side of the wall. Icebird is the left one. A great line and a great climb. Up the jugs, then a wide bit, to lovely hands.

The face between Icebird & Dirty Dancing. Tricky start needs small cams and alert belay, or start up an adjacent route for 5m. Then mostly moderate climbing about grade 21 till big break 6m from top. Put in lots of bomber gear and punch to top!

The middle one of the 3 major crack lines. Gets thinner and harder as you get higher and pumpder. This was John's pick of the area.

The line of carrots left of Windjammer that leads to 2 bolt lower off. Take many cams and a handful of brackets (it's mostly trad). The direct finish is 26 and is called Halfway House Extension (for some reason). The lower-off will twist the s#it out of your rope - would be nice to see it upgraded.

The one bolt extension to Not All There. Thin and techy.

Variant finish to Windjammer. Start up Windjammer, then avoid the wide crack by stepping left into the white marble seam. Very challenging trad climb both the climbing and protection.

The right one of the 3 major crack lines. Ensure you place lots of good gear in the first half as some of the rock is a bit suspect.

Follows the thin, right-sloping crack on the headwall R of Windjammer. Up suspect rock to the base of the crack. Follow the bolts below the slanting crack to the top. This route has been heavily retrobolted by Blowing in the Wind (see the notes for the extension to that route).

The leftmost of a trio of easier sport routes in the center of Windjammer Wall which puts 6 retrobolts onto The Sublime and the Ridiculous.

Two bolt extension of Blowing In The Wind to the top.

The middle of the trio. Fantastic climb; very technical and pumpy, save some gas for the top. Ringbolts.

Some nice holds on this one following the attractive seam. Up and R from the anchors past two more ringbolts and a cam.

The right of the trio. Steeper than it looks with a deceptive crux near the top. Three carrots up a slab to start, then a couple of FH's, then ringbolts. A royal sampler.

4 bolts above DAD. Superb rock and thin technical climbing. Some of the best rock on the wall with small edges and pockets. Dedication to the vision of Will creating the line. With his Name and climbing hold company Unleashed : )

Climb between Drunk and Disorderly and Feeding Frenzy, tuff move at 3rd bolt then make your way up to double rings. Last 6 meters is an open project. Enjoy:)

The R-leaning shallow flake in the headwall that is L of the main overlap (Liquid Lunch). Start just to the R of the centre of Windjammer Wall beneath the flake. Climb the easy lower part of the wall (bolt) to the flake, move L near the top to finish.

The R-ward leaning major diagonal flake on the R side of Windjammer Wall. Start a couple of metres R of Feeding Frenzy, about 10m below a small rooflet. Up, tending R to a U-bolt at beginning of flake, then follow the flake and crack diagonally R to the top.

The second line of rings left of Jaws' major corner. Five rings and several finger/hand sized cams to lower off anchors below the top of the cliff where the line joins Liquid Lunch. Connecting it into the top is a possibility at around grade 26 and has been attempted by Neil & others.

Sustained and well protected wall climbing with characteristic Point Perp buckets and horizontals. Starts 2m left of SS Minnow below thin crack. Face to start, then up juggy crack to unlikely wall and right leading flake. When the holds run out at 20m traverse right to join SS Minnow at its last BR and finish as for that route. Bring a full rack with doubles in the finger/hand sizes plus a #4 camalot to protect the first 5m.

Starts 5m left of the Jaws corner below the line of FHs. Up wall past three FHs then trad goodness until final climactic flake (BR). Single set of cams protects the rest. Finishes at left set of lower-offs about 4m short of the top of the wall. The single BR above is an open project.

(A linkup has been done: Hate Minnows, 22: Hate Mail to last bolt, but instead head left to SS Minnow anchors, clipping bolt (bolt plate)).

Varied and sustained wall climbing up beautiful polished rock with the typical cruxy Windjammer finish. Starts 1m left of Tenere behind small tree and 2m right of SS Minnow. Five U-bolts and four or five good cam slots (fingers to hand size). Save a #2 Camalot for pocket in the finish moves. Lower-off anchor is 3m below the top of the cliff at large finish pocket.

A true line. Start in the corner as for Jaws. At the ledge climb the fiddly seam on the main (L) wall. Continue up the stunning crack to top. Full rack to #3 cam. Sling small tree and boulder for belay.

The obvious corner in the middle of the wall.

Climb the face between Jaws and Some Weird Sin. Balancy and exposed move low with tricky top section.

Up slab right of corner, minimal gear. You can stay on slab until about 5m below top then step left to finish up Jaws.

Start on the right-hand side of the middle arete of Windjammer Wall - 5m right of Jaws. Up the wall and then arete passing bolts and cams. Move around to the R-side of the arete after clipping final bolt. Take lots of brackets. Double ring belay.

Traverse at half height from the arete of Some Weird Sin to the corner of Man Overboard. Start up the initial small corner of Hungry Eyes, or continue on from Blazing Jugs.

Start on top of the block, at the small L-facing corner just right of Some Weird Sin. Up enjoyable jugs, passing a couple of small overlaps to base of crack. Up thin crack then into hand crack to finish. Double ring belay.

Great sport climbing on lovely orange rock. This is the ringbolted line right of Hungry Eyes. If you stay where the bolts are and don't sneak off right where it is easier then you don't share any climbing with Permissability. Either way the last few metres are the crux! To get the full tick, climb past the double bolt anchors for one more move to the large pocket and back-jump to the anchors.

The one bolt extension of The Omen to enable the link into the top of Permissability. Super small pockets, just like 80s French limestone!

The overlap right of Hungry Eyes. Awesome moves on great rock. Sustained through the top.

Ascends the discontinuous thin cracks up the centre of this piece of wall to finish either up the thin crack (better pro, but harder) or the flake to its L. Another trad masterpiece.

Start 3m L of Walk The Plank. Hard start with awkward second clip - care! Steel yourself for the top moves on the rounded flake. If Martin Luther King could dream I guess we all can...

This is awesome. Start below the fine crack with a bolt, 4m left of corner. Up the wall past breaks and three bolts. At third bolt head right up the double edged flake. Don't place gear behind the suss flakes if you enjoy life and are looking forward to more of it!

Start 3m L of the Man Overboard corner under the line of fixed hangers. Routefinding skills required at second bolt (!) Sustained climbing on fiddly, often sharp little holds finishing at lower-off 4m below the clifftop. Has been linked into the top flake of Walk The Plank to top out.

Start in the corner, just right of the typical abseil line. Better than it looks with varied climbing and good jamming at the top on clean rock.

Traverse at half height from the Man Overboard corner to the arete, about half way up Full Sail.

Most will agree, this climb is the best easy/moderate trad route at the Point and for miles around. Gear placement is amply available and the climbing consistent at the grade. Start in the middle of the dark south-facing wall to the right of the Man Overboard corner. Follow the sinuous crack as it slowly widens to hand size.

Excellent climbing, better than it looks. Start at the crack just L of the arete, 3m R of Grey Mist.

1. 23m (19) Follow the crack until it stops then up L side of arete until able to move R to scoop on nose. Up scoop to good ledge on R.

2. 17m (17) R along ledge and up the zig zag crack with interest.

The direct finish to Full Sail. Start as for Full Sail then take the ringbolted arete to the top.

Start at a block below the middle of the wall on the right of the arete.

1. 25m (20) Up to the ledge at 4m, then left to the loose vibrating pedestal. Step right to the thin seam/crack then up to the belay ledge as for Full Sail.

2. 17m (17) As for Full Sail.

Traverse right from the belay of Night Shift (i.e. halfway up Full Sail) to Search and Destroy. Up this to finish.

Start in the middle of the wall just right of Saving Grace.Up past ring bolts then bypass the dodgy block on the left to gain the Full Sail ledge. Finish as for Full Sail.

The left facing corner at the right hand end of the wall.

1. 20m Up the corner then groove to a nice ledge.

2. 10m Originally up the wide corner at the back of the ledge but now most people prefer to climb the cracks just right of the corner.

Sandy and poorly protected.

The fine, red diagonal crack with black streaks near the middle of the wall.

Follow Nice orange rock with long moves between pockets. Spicy move at top.

Line of rings up wall to the left of the diagonal crack. Follow the reddish streaks via some big funky moves to a last move crux.

Line of 3 bolts thru scoops and pockets to a powerful Nowra like crux. Great rock and wicked moves. Small cam in the top slot protects the last moves.

Start below the dark flaring crack just right of Slutcats. Pass 3 carrot bolts to some cam placements and then one more carrot.

Now has stainless steel carrot bolts to replace the old mank. Fun moves of pretty good rock. Cut slightly right to the last carrot and then up.

Start at the thin crack (small wires) and then head directly up some great rock and moves past 3 more stainless carrots. Tricky first moves leads to sustained climbing on good holds. Holds thin out towards the top so keep moving.

Project - Jake Noblett. Drilled holes but no bolts yet.

The line of ringbolts starting up large R-facing flake. Good moderate climbing through solid rock to the sandy finale which will have you cursing.

Line of 3 U-bolts up slightly sandy rock. Thread runner can be used between bolts 1 and 2.

The parallel cracks at the R end of the Poop Deck. Begin in the one on the R. Strenuously, then carefully until hard, sustained jamming is reached. Pike L into the next sandy horror, then more easily to top.

Starts 3m right of the crack. This climb is basically two boulder problems divided by a sit down rest in the middle. Ideal for strong climbers with no endurance.

Climb the chossy rooflet to good solid rock for the rest of the climb. Nice sustained climbing past plenty of bolts. Respect the small pebbles as you pass them as they will help you out.

As for previous route but break right at 2nd bolt and climb past another 5-6 bolts on cool rock to an awesome, spicy finish on the arete.

Bad rock.

Belay in the corner with a few medium cams. Up the wall to a big move, reachy. About 23 to the crux, then it gets hard for the last few moves. Take a bolt bracket.

Start off the corner ledge as for Terra Nullius. Clip first carrot of this and traverse the breaks past two ring bolts. Continue straight up through fantastic climbing and rock to a crux past the last bolt.

Bad rock.