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Cathedral Rock Tutte Arrampicata trad 14 vie in parete

  • Contesto grado: AU
  • Ascensioni: 23
14
AU
369121416182022

Stagionalità

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Descrizione

Good rock in a spectacular position. Routes described clockwise from Pablo's Predicament, which is the obvious orange arete as you approach the crag.

Limitazioni per l'accesso ereditato da Rocky Cape

This area is of great spiritual significance to the Tasmanian Aboriginal people, and Aboriginal sites such as the cave and middens are fully protected by law. Please respect the historic and spiritual values they represent by leaving them as you found them. We strongly recommend that climbers avoid the routes round the North Cave area in particular.

The old descent gully should also be avoided for this reason. Decent from the cliff can be made with 2 or 3 rappels on fixed slings to the right of Zoro. There is a slung boulder at the very top of the ridge and end of pitch 4 of Zoro. The next point is 5m right of the top of the third pitch of Zorro. A 60m rope at full stretch should get you from here to the ground, alternatively there is a third point at the end of the second pitch of Zoro.

Peregrine falcons nest on the cliffs so keep away from any nest and out of sight during the breeding season from August through to December. The most common site of nests has been near North Cave/Ramps are, so there is a standing seasonal closure of extending from Zorro wall to the ramp area (inclusive). If they do appear anywhere else, and you get persistent “hecking” calls from a falcon during the nesting period, back off.

Avvicinamento

Just under an hours walk from the carpark. Follow walker's track to Postman's Pass, then Cathedral Rock. The spectacular crag will become visible just bfore arriving at the bay. Rock hop to the base of the pinnacle.

Note calata

Downscramble Exit Route

Etica ereditato da Rocky Cape

Crag Stewards

Rock climbers please contact the Crag Steward (sistersbeachrockycape@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag.

Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, Facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high-level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.

Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.

Other

• The operation and use of drones by park visitors on reserved land including national parks is not permitted

• Peregrine Falcons nest from July - December each year. It’s important that climbers don’t climb near active nests during this period. Known sites (non exhaustive) are: Sand River (Far East, The Panopticon), Bare Rock (R of the Boneyard, L of Bisso of Orange), Rocky Cape, Pubic Wall/Duck Reach, Hillwood, Gunners Quoin, Lowdina.

• Please note that Tasmania has notoriously patchy phone reception for particular service providers. Telstra is the most reliable. An emergency Personal Locator Beacon or similar is recommended kit when climbing in remote locations.

• For more information - follow the link below for some local tips + tricks on how to better reduce your impact during your next Tassie climbing holiday https://www.cragcaretasmania.org.au/learn

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1
12 ★★ Pablo's Predicament Trad 20m

An excellent outing for the grade up the rounded orange arete. Plenty of gear and big holds where it steepens. Finish by squeezing into the chimney at the top, or (better) up the unprotected lichenous slab to the left.

FA: Chris Arvier & Isabel Cornes, Gen 2018

2
14 Manual Disimpaction Trad 18m

Not a particularly pleasant experience. Up the obvious right hand crack of the face you first get to with some bushes about 5m below the top.

FA: Max Lopez & Foong, 2015

3
15 Hands-free Manual Disimpaction Trad 18m

As the name implies, a slightly more pleasant line compared to its neighbour. The crack to the left of Manual disimpaction.

FA: Foong & moses bassett, 2015

4
16 ★★ Groupthink Trad 25m

The first 10-15m is pleasant steep climbing. The next line left of Hands-free manual disimpaction.

FA: owen cameron & Foong, 3 Feb 2017

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5
15 Thoughtcrime Trad 25m

Start at the wide crack R of Rorogwela, romp up over a few ledges and finish up Groupthink.

FA: Chris Arvier & Isabel Cornes, Gen 2018

6
22 ★★ Rorogwela RHV Trad 25m

As for Rorogwela, but head R out of the pod to avoid the top crux. A good option when the swallows are nesting.

FA: Chris Arvier, Gen 2018

7
23 ★★★ Rorogwela Trad 25m

A stonker of a route, probably one of the best trad routes in the North-West. Named after a Solomon Island folk tune which was plagarised by the French band Deep Forest without due recognition. Obvious line on the seawards face of the crag. Start on block in the middle of the face, up this for about 5m, then move right to the start of the left-trending flake. Up this until there is a massive rail on the left - from here go straight up the the pod halfway up the climb. Have a good rest, look around and think about how amazing this spot is. Then up with a slight leftward trend to top - a fun crux sequence with incredible exposure.

FA: Foong & Owen cameron, 3 Feb 2017

8
23 ★★★ Rorogwela Variant Trad 25m

As above - at the massive rail on the left traverse left on this, up and then rejoin the line at the pod. Avoids the first reachy crux on Rorogwela.

FA: Foong & ben french, 2015

9
16 ★★ Grandma Baz Trad 18m

Start about 3 metres to the left of Rorogwela. Up faint line, then up the the middle break. Straight up over a steep finish.

FA: ben french & Foong, 2015

10
3 Exit Route Trad 15m

Obvious gully to the left of Grandma Baz. Easy down scramble.

11
12 ★★ Cymande Trad 12m

The lichenous looking crack 3m to the right of Chocolate and cruskits. Actually not a bad line with good exposure for the grade.

FA: Foong, owen cameron & zeev gilovitz, 2015

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12
14 Chocolate and Cruskits Trad 12m

Some would say a terrible idea. The wide looking crack in the middle of the landwards face.

FA: owen cameron & Foong, 2015

13
14 Gula Melaka Trad 12m

The crack 3m to the left of Chocolate and cruskits.

FA: Foong, 2015

14
15 Have a shag on the nice flat rock under this instead Trad 10m

Meh. The line opposite the actual crag with a flake at the top. Title is self-explanatory.

FA: Foong, 2015

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Selected Guidebooks more Nascondi

Climb Tasmania Selected Best Climbs

Autore/i: Gerry Narkowicz

Data: 2021

ISBN: 9780646841946

Cracks, sea stacks, big walls, remote exotic locations, volcanic columns, no crowds and your choice of the predominant dolerite, some quartzite and a little sandstone to remind you of the mainland. Many a wilderness climbing experience can be had within a 2hr car trip from the main centers. By Gerry Narkowicz. This guide features 1280 routes.

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23 ★★★ Rorogwela Variant

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