1 - 100 di 522 nodi.
Nodo |
---|
Tasman Peninsula
Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline! http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website |
Fortescue Bay
Fortescue Bay is a sheltered bay with a beautiful white sandy beach, set against heavily forested hills near Port Arthur. |
Fortescue Bay |
The Candlestick
The Candlestick is a dolerite sea cliff located in Fortescue Bay near Port Arthur. It is located in Tasman National Park. Rock climbers were involved in accidents requiring rescues in February and December 2019. Both parties experienced difficulties with the unfamiliar techniques typically used accessing and returning from the Candlestick. |
Fortescue Bay The Candlestick |
22
★★ Sankara
Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline! http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website |
18
The 'ABC' Route
Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline! http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website |
23
★ Livin in Lutana
Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline! http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website |
18
★★★ Corner Route
60m Fixed line rap off the rings as for the Totem pole, jump in and swim left not right to ledge with U bolts 2m above water. Drag traverse rope across 15m gap and setup tyrolean or swim. Note 60m fixed line will initially require 10m extension with tag line to span diagonally when being dragged up from start of first pitch. Loose rock is a possibility on all pitches, hauling of spare ropes and packs is recommended.
|
20
★★ Cherry Picker
Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline! http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website |
18
★ The Middle Way
Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline! http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website |
16
★★★ Normal Route
Rap off the rings as for the Totem pole, jump in and swim right to an easy ledge just behind the Totem pole.
This is the chossiest route to the summit of the candlestick. Although it's the easiest, expect very poor rock and gear the whole way (last pitch excepted) |
17
★★ The Wick
Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline! http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website |
18
West Wall
Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline! http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website |
20
★ CNG Direct Candlestick
Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline! http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website |
Fortescue Bay |
The Totem Pole
The Totem Pole is a dolerite sea cliff located in Fortescue Bay in Tasman National Park near Port Arthur. |
Fortescue Bay The Totem Pole |
Gallegos Route
Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline! http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website |
27
★★★ The Sorcerer
A mind-blowing line. The 3rd pitch climbs the arete left of the Free Route. The climbing is sustained and technically demanding.
Gear List: • Double set of cams from .2 to .5 camolots • 2x 30cm quick draws • 1x 60cm quick draw • 14x quick draws • single 60m rope and 1 x 120cm sling • A ton of Psyche! |
25
★★★ The Free Route
|
24
★★★ Deep Play
Popular variant first-pitch to 'The Free Route'. Mostly Bolts, a few pieces of small trad gear where the climbing is easier. |
A3
★★★ Original Aid Route
|
27
★★★ The FreeD Route
The original Ewbank Aid Route, now freed at 25, 26, 27, 17 by Doug McConnell. |
Fortescue Bay |
Cape Hauy Cliffs
Routes on the mainland cliffs of Cape Hauy. |
Fortescue Bay Cape Hauy Cliffs |
Access 'Candle in the Wind' from the rock lookout. Locate rap rings over cliff edge on left (looking
Access 'Candle in the Wind' from the rock lookout. Locate rap rings over cliff edge on left (looking out). |
25 R
Candle in the Wind 110m 25
3 great pitches of crack climbing followed by a short top-out pitch. A great alternative if the Totem Pole routes are wet when you get out there. Rap 25m to double rings and Fixed Hanger. For the next rap :IMPORTANT: Rap down crack to the right (looking out,ie towards Cape Pillar) 30m to a Double ring hanging belay, don't just rap straight over ledge(you won't find the double rings). Next Rap 45m to huge ledge 15m above the ocean, or rap to the first belay (2 F.H.)30m below, with one 15 rap to the ledge. Start: Follow the Cape Huay track (1.5 Hrs) all the way to the the end, don\'t turn off as for the Totem Pole, but continue to un-fenced rock lookout. Locate rap rings over cliff edge on left(looking out). The route is 100m south of the Totem Pole,ie towards Cape Pillar.
|
25
★★★ Candle in the Wind
3 great pitches of crack climbing followed by a short top-out pitch. A great alternative if the Totem Pole routes are wet when you get out there. Rap 25m to double rings and Fixed Hanger. For the next rap: IMPORTANT: Rap down crack to the right (looking out,ie towards Cape Pillar) 30m to a Double ring hanging belay, don't just rap straight over ledge(you won't find the double rings). Next Rap 45m to huge ledge 15m above the ocean, or rap to the first belay (2 F.H.)30m below, with one 15 rap to the ledge.
|
Access these routes from the Totem pole ledge, from the lookout walk down to the left for roughly 50
Access these routes from the Totem pole ledge, from the lookout walk down to the left for roughly 50m, veering left around a large gully. After dropping down a couple steps and when the tip of the Totem pole is now visible again on your right cut back towards it until you reach the double bolt anchor. |
24
★★ Swell Repeller
Two pitches of stunning arêtes, both of which are fully bolted. A great bad weather option when the Tote is being hammered by the swell. The route is on the mainland cliffs facing the Totem Pole. Fix a 60m rope to DBB as for the Totem Pole access, but rap diagonally towards Cape Pillar (SE), heading down a scungy corner to a ledge with a DBB belay. Continue rapping down the wall below, L of knife blade arête, to arrive at a small ledge about 5m above the ocean with another DBB.
|
18 - 20
★ Unknown 1
This is directly under the rap anchors for the Totem pole and starts on a large ledge level with the ledge on the tote. Up fist crack widening to offwidth, a small roof then back to hand crack and thinner to top. Alternate start 1m right up nice layback crack for 5m then traverse left into offwidth. |
Unknown 2
Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline! http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website |
Fortescue Bay |
The Safe House
Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline! http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website |
Fortescue Bay The Safe House |
21
Plastic Machete
Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline! http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website |
18
Riff Raff And Rug Rats
Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline! http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website |
20
Flock Of Dolphins
Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline! http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website |
19
Seal Of Approval
Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline! http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website |
19
Morning Swim
Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline! http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website |
21
Pissin' In The Wind
Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline! http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website |
15
Don't Drink Yellow Sea Spray
Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline! http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website |
15
Dunkirk
Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline! http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website |
Fortescue Bay |
Fortescue Bay Crag
A nice sunny crag just a short walk from the Fortescue Bay camp grounds. Short steep climbing up cracks, pockets & flakes. |
Fortescue Bay Fortescue Bay Crag |
10
★ Hang 5
Rappel into the chimney chasm furthest point climbers left on the ramp. |
21
★ Inventure
The striking arete south of Grey Nurse, easy climbing to a high crux. |
16
★ Eeeeeeee (The Dolphin Noise)
Obvious crack line climbers far left on the ramp, slopey ledge belay (10m), 20m up classy corner to topout. |
23
★ Grey Nurse
Striking prominent arete in the far left zawn, quality climbing on friable rock. |
19
Nurse Shark
The arete closest to the bay, short and punchy. |
14
Hightail the High Tide
The easiest route to bail out from if the tides are giving you grief - following the split where the wall joins the sloping ramp, then traversing right & up the bulging block to the she-oak. A bit of a wander... |
18
★ The Rhyme Of The Ancient Mariner
This area is part of the Tasman National Park. National Park fees apply. |
17
★★ Kelpie
This area is part of the Tasman National Park. National Park fees apply. |
18
★ Unnamed
This area is part of the Tasman National Park. National Park fees apply. |
18
★ Thank Christ For Bass Strait
This area is part of the Tasman National Park. National Park fees apply. |
23
Jesus Without the Nails
R of TCFBS via 7 carrots |
19
★ Windscape
This area is part of the Tasman National Park. National Park fees apply. |
18
★★ Blythe Star
This area is part of the Tasman National Park. National Park fees apply. |
17
★ Sunny Gym
This area is part of the Tasman National Park. National Park fees apply. |
16
★ Exit Route
This area is part of the Tasman National Park. National Park fees apply. |
16
the other exit route
This area is part of the Tasman National Park. National Park fees apply. |
Fortescue Bay |
Bivouac Bay Crag
Only a 15 minute walk away from the Bivouac Bay campsite is a great crag with a suite of excellent routes. The rock here is water washed and of very good quality, and there’s something for everyone with a variety of grades and styles. The crag faces South and doesn’t get much sun, so it’s great on a warm day in summer, but chilly in winter. Be wary of how you store your food. The resident raven knows how to open zips, and has a penchant for power bars. |
Fortescue Bay Bivouac Bay Crag |
16
★ Don't take my baby
Nice climbing up the box groove, with a convenient tree to rap-off at the top. |
23
★★★ Cake or Death
It's definitely cake! Take the committing line through the left of the enormous roof to the face crack and face to the top. For now rap off a tree near the top. Anchors and a bolt will be installed at some point - somewhat spicy (but safe) topout until this happens. Micro cams (.1 and .2) and a small (yellow) offset nut or cam recommended. |
19
★★ Life Starts at No.5
The striking flake / off-width. Jam, layback and struggle up the prominent line to a lower-off. Take a couple #4 and #5 cams. Quite unique, and not bad for this sort of thing. Lower-off. |
17
Are you serious
The crack/groove just right of the flake, traversing left to the anchor at the top. |
17
★★ The Illusion Delusion
Steep jamming with a nice bulge a half height. Looks 3 grades harder and is an absolute delight. Take a #4. Lower-off. |
15
★ Blank Canvas
The appealing hand crack. Lower-off. |
22
★★★ Never Let Me Go
Brilliant, sustained climbing up the attractive crack in the centre of the buttress. As good as it looks. Lower-off. |
24
★★★ Yak to the Future
Superb technical climbing up the arete. Eight bolts to a lower off. |
19
★★ Double Agent (LH)
A classy corner route, with two equally excellent starts. Take the left crack and step across to the main line (19) or go direct (18). Lower-off. |
18
★★ Double Agent (Direct)
A classy corner route, with two equally excellent starts. Take the left crack and step across to the main line (19) or go direct (18). Lower-off. |
24
★★★ Dr Incognito
Powerful, consistent bouldery climbing up the middle of the face and through the small roof. Eight bolts to a lower off. |
17
★ Espresso
Awkward then pleasant hand jamming up the groove crack to a lower-off. |
Fortescue Bay |
The Moai - Mainland
Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline! http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website |
Fortescue Bay The Moai - Mainland |
16
Exit route
the exit route from the Moai platform |
18
The Firing Line
Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline! http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website |
17
The Hands Of Chaos
Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline! http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website |
16
★★ Mr Whippy
Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline! http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website |
17
★★ Thunderstuck
Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline! http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website |
18
Garn's Horror Climb
Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline! http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website |
17
Squeeze
Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline! http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website |
Fortescue Bay |
The Moai
Two options for descent off the Moai: 1) 25m rap from the shared anchors for Ancient Astronaught and Sacred Site, 2) 25m rap off the DBB at the top of 'Burning Spear p2' |
Fortescue Bay The Moai |
18
★ Burning Spear p1
Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline! http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website |
22
★★ Burning Spear p2
Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline! http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website |
22
★★★ Blunt instrument/Burning spear P2 Link-Up
The best way to do the link up is in one long pitch. Past two U bolts to a flake with good natural gear, then to the ledge (as for the end of 'Burning Spear P1') then up past bolts to DBB loweroffs. You can just lower on a 50m rope but be careful not to drop it in the sea in high winds. |
20
★★ Blunt Instrument
Past two U bolts to flake with good natural gear. Continue up to ledge to join the top of 'Burning Spear p1' |
24
★★ Ancient Astronaught
|
20
★ Ancient Astronaught p2
Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline! http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website |
18
★★★ Sacred Site
Note: the first bolt is currently loose, the rap chains seem pretty lightweight. R.Eberhard, R.Parkyn, Aug/94. |
16
★ The Moai Escape
A two pitch escape route to get you back up the rap route. Grade 12, 16 |
Fortescue Bay |
Golden Pillar Area
90m high cliff only 5-10 minutes walk along the track from the Moai turn-off. Huge exposure and great routes. Be wary of how you store your food. The resident raven knows how to open zips, and has a penchant for power bars. |
Fortescue Bay Golden Pillar Area |
23
★ The Secret Ingredient is Crime
Great face climbing in a very exposed position. The route is fully bolted. Abseil 25m from visible DBBs near the arete to a small ledge with fixed anchors. |
25
★★★ The Edge of Reason
An incredible pitch. Abseil 30m from the DBB at the start of ‘The Secret Ingredient…’ to another DBB below a roof on a sloping ledge. Climb through the roof on its right and into a finger / hand crack. Follow this until the bolts, trending left and climb the side of the arete to the anchors. Finish up either ‘The Secret Ingredient…’ or start the traverse into ‘The Pud Life’ to exit. Recommended gear; cams #0.3 to #2 with extra #0.4 and #0.5, a black offset nut, and at least 9 quick draws. |
18
Beyond the Edge of Reason
Some choice quotes from the first ascentionist: "Climbed a choss first pitch from the ground (kayak access) ...wouldn’t recommend ...some of the worst rock imaginable... it's quite impressive how bad some of the sea cliff Dolerite can be. It looks compact and then just sheds scales." Despite the sage words, the kayak approach may mean the pitch is worth repeating. Take a triple rack including big gear (#3 & #4) if you want it to be a bit more pleasant. |
17
★★★ The Pud Life
Likely the best pitch of grade 17 on the Peninsula. Well-protected. From the belay ledge clip the low bolt to the right and traverse 2m right to the base of a hidden hand-crack. Follow this to a stance at a small ledge with a roof. Traverse airily right 2m to gain the base of another hidden clean crack. Follow this and the face above to the top. Either traverse right at the lip to gain the DBB or top out and belay from a tree using something to protect the bark. Recommended gear; double rack of cams, with an extra #2 and #3. Only one #4 needed, #1 not required. Access as for ‘The Secret Ingredient…’. |
22
★★ The Salty Swine
Two stellar pitches of sustained crack climbing. The route is so named because of a large pink algal bloom making shapes in the ocean below during the FA. Well protected with a full trad rack, including a set of wires and double rack of cams from BD #0.2 - #3. Extra cams around finger size and a #4 are useful. Access to the start of the route is from double bolts 20cm over the edge of the cliff (you can use the large tree about 5m from the edge to help access these if you wish - use a sling on the tree to protect it). Two 25m abseils from the DBBs takes you to the start of the route at a small ledge at the base of a large twin-edged flake.
|
24
★★ The Golden Pillar of Fortescue
Locate a pair of carrot bolts in horizontal rock on top of the pillar, these may be covered by foliage. Alternatively look for the DBB at the end of the third pitch close to the carrots described earlier. The DBB can be reached from the top and is in vertical rock on the north-east side of the pillar 30cm over the edge. Abseil with a 60m fixed rope, or, if brave, abseil in three pitches, from double bolts, using a single 60 metre rope. You will need eight hangers and a dozen draws, a medium wire (No 5 Rock) and Cams 0.4,0.5,0.75, 1 (BD C4s). The route is equipped with a mixture of stainless expansion bolts with hangers and (bash-in!) stainless carrots, and is somewhat runout in places. There could be another pitch below.
|
Fortescue Bay |
Canoe Bay Crag
With the relaxing atmosphere, easy 20 minute walk from Fortescue Bay and abundance of good routes all virtually next door to each other, these cliffs provide great cragging and a low commitment alternative to the more adventurous nature of climbing in the area. The rock quality varies across the cliff-line, but is generally of good quality with established routes accepting gear very well. All routes to date have been cleaned of time-bombs and loose rock, though take-care as the crag is relatively new - helmets are strongly recommended. The crag receives morning sun and goes into shade in the early afternoon, with some seepage occurring after a heavy rain |
Fortescue Bay Canoe Bay Crag |
South Cliff |
13
Below Deck
Up the twin cracks in the first little alcove on the left, just before you approach the main crag near the waterline. Belay on shrubs and walk-off left through the scrub (crux). |
15
★ The Jolly Roger
Pleasant face climbing on big holds. Start in the middle of the wall and trend left and up the groove past some cam pockets to the arete, then move back right and up following the diagonal crack. Lower-off. |
13
★★ Piracy
Big Jugs. |
18
★★ The Kraken
Jam up the steep hand crack to the bush, then bridge airily across the groove (looks unlikely from the ground) to finish up the final few metres of Davey Jones’ Locker. Lower-off. |
18
★★ Davey Jones’ Locker
The watery grave. If you’re questioning the grade you’re probably climbing it wrong. Lower-off. |
18
★★ Parlay
Classy climbing. Start in the middle of the face below the undercut and head directly up past the flake and seven bolts to the lower-off. Fully bolted. |
18
★ Sea Legs
Thoughtful climbing up the open corner to the lower-off. Excellent small / medium wires and cams. Highly repeatable. |
1 - 100 di 522 nodi.