Vie come trad in North West

40 m West of the lookout, under the light house, in low swell. 3 sets of u bolts above. Suitable for toproping, most routes trad protectable. Described left to right, grade depends on eliminates.

The left hand corner offwidth

Groove to left of first set of U bolt anchors

Straight up to u bolt anchors

Line left of middle anchors

Line to left of right ward anchors up groove

1. Diagonally up through obvious wide crack

2. As for Zorro

3. Continue diagonally right through roof

1. Climb left leaning crack of Zorro to the intersection of cracks. Up and a bit left, climbing between Seven and Jamboree. Continue up Ent and belay at trees.

2. Continue up easy terrain to summit.

Descent: Sling boulder on summit & rappel 20m to summit of Zorro, then rappel fixed slings 28m to ground.

1. Traverse L on gentle ramp to belay

2. Traverse R up crack/ramp, round corner to belay (2nd large poo stain and slings)

3. Up through roof on L then directly to easy territory. Slings to rap (30m) are ~5m to R.

Crack on the left of the face

Start up Vader then traverse right across slab to poorly protected corner and up

Start to the right of the bottom of descent gully, follow crack to belay at slab. Traverse slab to R, and up prow to finish

Start up Shelob Stairs for 4m, climb slab to R.

Direct start to Narrow Steps, following thin, technical crack

Follow inside corner of ramp to finish on face. Fractured quartzite and limited reliable gear, not the best beginners route.

An excellent outing for the grade up the rounded orange arete. Plenty of gear and big holds where it steepens. Finish by squeezing into the chimney at the top, or (better) up the unprotected lichenous slab to the left.

Not a particularly pleasant experience. Up the obvious right hand crack of the face you first get to with some bushes about 5m below the top.

As the name implies, a slightly more pleasant line compared to its neighbour. The crack to the left of Manual disimpaction.

The first 10-15m is pleasant steep climbing. The next line left of Hands-free manual disimpaction.

Start at the wide crack R of Rorogwela, romp up over a few ledges and finish up Groupthink.

As for Rorogwela, but head R out of the pod to avoid the top crux. A good option when the swallows are nesting.

A stonker of a route, probably one of the best trad routes in the North-West. Named after a Solomon Island folk tune which was plagarised by the French band Deep Forest without due recognition. Obvious line on the seawards face of the crag. Start on block in the middle of the face, up this for about 5m, then move right to the start of the left-trending flake. Up this until there is a massive rail on the left - from here go straight up the the pod halfway up the climb. Have a good rest, look around and think about how amazing this spot is. Then up with a slight leftward trend to top - a fun crux sequence with incredible exposure.

As above - at the massive rail on the left traverse left on this, up and then rejoin the line at the pod. Avoids the first reachy crux on Rorogwela.

Start about 3 metres to the left of Rorogwela. Up faint line, then up the the middle break. Straight up over a steep finish.

Obvious gully to the left of Grandma Baz. Easy down scramble.

The lichenous looking crack 3m to the right of Chocolate and cruskits. Actually not a bad line with good exposure for the grade.

Some would say a terrible idea. The wide looking crack in the middle of the landwards face.

The crack 3m to the left of Chocolate and cruskits.

Meh. The line opposite the actual crag with a flake at the top. Title is self-explanatory.

Strenuous climbing up the line just left of the nose

Fist crack L of roof.

Follows thin seam between Superfly and Fly Blown.

Starts up Superfly then pointlessly traverses off left instead of finishing up the excellent original, staying about 1m below the roof.

A variant of Superfly, follow the original then go L through roof instead of direct.

The classic of the crag. Up the obvious crack and direct through the roof on good holds and excellent protection.

Yet another variant to Superfly. Climb to roof but this time traverse out and right.

Through the roofs to the R of Supefly, passing bolts. This route was originally led entirely on trad gear, however now sports a carrot and a FH of unknown origin.

Next crack R, finishes just to the Left of Sunshine.

Broken wall R of main cliff.

The dirty looking corner is cleaner and better than it looks.

Crack to R of Uncle.

Crack to the R of corner. A good beginners climb with excellent natural pro.

Arete and wall to the R of Maggot.

Climbs steeply up arete on the RH side of the Keyhole with excellent natural protection.

Overhanging thin crack on RH wall of the gully, just before you scramble through the gap in the Keyhole to Corruption Wall. Unnecessary retrobolts recently removed, there is excellent natural protection.

About 30m L of where you scramble through the gap in the ridge is a bulging roof with a triangular wall under it. Hand traverse along the triangular wall until able to pull over the bulge, then straight up the wall above. Retrobolts removed Jan 2018.

First obvious line, the clean hand crack

The wide chimney is cleaner and better than it looks

Overhanging crack just to the R of the chimney.

Corner leading to diagonal roof corner-crack. Climbs quite ok.

Climb the crack off "Happy Hooker" to the small roof and straight up.

Follow thin crack just right of the Rapist, then traverse a long way right across Lazy Lob and CTCP to join top of Nubile Nymph.

The clean corner crack

Climb the excellent crack of "Nubile Nymph" and then straight up the wall (two bolts) to the chain.

Easy line between the two corners

The next corner

Up the featured wall

The first left bend as you traverse toward cape crusader. North East facing cliff. Climb up the crack, continue diagonally R and up to the small roof, then climb L and up under the roof.

Climb up and L, via path of least resistance, left side of the shrub. Topping out above Cape Crusader DBB. Bring plently of slings

Long, serious route, despite the modest grade. Route follows left side of ridge. Harder variants to the right side. Six hours (minimum) of climbing plus two hours (minimum) abseiling down.

Start on the left slab at the toe of the buttress. Wander your way up staying on the ridgeline. Best descent is to finish up the skyline traverse.

The well protected central crack line with varied classy climbing, the route leads up and behind the imposing pillar. climb the crack direct through a corner into a slightly overhanging crack, layback to ledge without escaping right or left. Climb up chimney with small protection to the top of the pillar, jump or bridge the gap across incut ledge to topout and belay.