Grado | Via | Stile equipaggiamento | Popolarità | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
East Freycinet National Park Hazards Cliffs Wombat Crag Upper Tier | |||||
23 | ★★ Entente Cordiale
| 35m | |||
East Freycinet National Park Hazards Cliffs Wombat Crag Inchman Crag | |||||
26 | ★★★ Toe the Line
FA: Nick & Heather Hancock, Giu 2018 | 25m, 9 | |||
22 | ★★ Knocked Up On Cheap Champagne
Trends left and then straight up (broken hold between 2nd and 3rd) FA: Norm Selby & Robert DeCasare, 2004 | 50m | |||
24 | ★★ Top Of My To Do List
Technical slab climbing up a white water groove. FA: Doug McConnell, 2004 | 15m, 4 | |||
East Freycinet National Park Hazards Cliffs Wombat Crag Fat Slipper Area | |||||
21 | Fat Slipper
Facing Inchman, on the opposite of the gully. Climb fixed hangers to right of waterstreak on small holds to DHB. FA: N.Selby, A. Mason 7 Aug 2004 & A.Mason, 2004 FA: N.Selby & A.Mason, 2004 | 18m, 8 | |||
East Freycinet National Park Hazards Cliffs Hancocks Knob | |||||
22 | ★ Hail Caesar
| 4 | |||
22 | ★★ Sell By Date
| 4 | |||
22 | ★ Roger's Strap-on
| 4 | |||
26 | ★★ Sicker Than AIDS
| 5 | |||
East Freycinet National Park Hazards Cliffs The Kindergarten | |||||
24 | ★★ The Crystal Ball
FA: Nick & Heather Hancock, Apr 2016 | 25m, 8 | |||
East Freycinet National Park Hazards Cliffs Wave Wall | |||||
20 | ★★ Probability Wave
FA: Heather & Nick Hancock, 2013 | 25m, 7 | |||
24 | Uncertainty Principle
The bolted line right of PW. Joins up to PW for the last bolt or so. | 25m, 6 | |||
East Freycinet National Park Hazards Cliffs Gracelands | |||||
22 | ★ Leap Of Faith
Its all about the start, and what a start it is! Bonus points if you don't stick clip the first bolt. Memorable. DBB. | 15m, 4 | |||
23 | ★★ Goodness Gracious
Sustained climbing up featured arete and face. Trad gear required for belay. FA: R Parkyn, 1993 | 12m, 4 | |||
27 | ★ Flow Rida
FA: Ken Palmer, 2008 | 10m | |||
26 | ★ Born Under a Bad Sign
Climb the arete right of Ju Ju. FA: Hancock & Parkyn, 2004 | 15m, 4 | |||
22 | ★ Elvis Goes Metal
Good old fashioned fridge lifting up a short and tenuous pillar. | 9m | |||
24 | ★★ Dead Can't Dance
Arete and face at left end of upper tier. The tree is a great temptation when facing the cruxy start. DBB. FA: N Hancock, 2001 | 12m, 4 | |||
25 | ★★ Action Replay
Gymnastic climbing up waterwashed scoops, to the right of DCD. DBB. FA: S Edwards & G Phillips, 1995 | 12m, 4 | |||
East Freycinet National Park Hazards Cliffs Broadway | |||||
The Shining Path
FA: Nick & Heather Hancock, 2014 | 30m, 9 | ||||
East Freycinet National Park Hazards Cliffs Sow Spur | |||||
24 | ★★★ Deliverance (aka Squeal Like a Pig)
One of the best, most interesting and well bolted slab climbs in the State. Start below a line of bolts leading up left to the most distinct white streak in the blank slab. FA: Nick, Heather Hancock & Quinn Griggs, 2010 | 40m, 12 | |||
East Freycinet National Park Hazards Cliffs Mt Amos Mt Amos Lower Slopes South Park | |||||
26 | ★ Cartman
FA: Nick Hancock, 2001 | 15m, 6 | |||
East Freycinet National Park Hazards Cliffs Mt Amos Mt Amos North Face | |||||
23 | ★★★ The Usual Suspects
Varied granite mega pitch, right of RH Negetive. DBB. FA: N & H Hancock, 2013 | 50m, 14 | |||
25 | ★★★ American Beauty
Right trending line of diagonals. Pumpy, sustained, steep, classy. Best to clean on second. FA: N & H Hancock J Narcowicz, 2013 | 32m, 13 | |||
24 | ★ The Wolfpack
Climbs the big L facing corner 20m L of Incipience.
FA: Nick, Heather Hancock & June 2015, Mag 2015 | 40m, 2 | |||
27 | ★★★ Catch 22
FA: Nick & Heather Hancock | 35m, 2, 9 | |||
26 | ★★ A Tenuous Grip On Reality
Some very thin slabbing | 30m, 12 | |||
24 | ★★ Travels with my Wife and Pet Wookie
| 47m, 17 | |||
19 | ★ I Wish She Were Mine
Left of the two bolted routes facing the walking track to the summit on the right side of the cliff. A toughstart to gain the dyke feature. DBB. FA: N Selby, 2004 | 17m, 7 | |||
22 | ★ No Friends Nutter
Wall right of IWSWM, with a technical and powerful middle section. DBB. FA: N Selby, 2004 | 17m, 7 | |||
22 | ★★ Fin D'amour
Bolted arete on face immediatly below main face. No bolted belay. FA: Nick Hancock & Andrew Bissett, 2001 | 20m, 5 | |||
East Freycinet National Park Hazards Cliffs Mt Amos Mt Amos West Face | |||||
23 | The Elegant Universe
FA: Nick & Heather Hancock, 2013 | 25m, 8 | |||
East Fingal Valley Appetite Hill Lower Right Tier | |||||
30 | ★★ Queer Core
A grade 30 slab. Does anything more need to be said? FA: Ingvar Lidman, 28 Apr 2021 | 25m | |||
24 | ★★ Eating the Cannibals
Bolted arete left of deep chimney FA: 18 Apr 2015 | 15m | |||
24 | ★★ Limp wrist
face climb starts up left side of the flake shared with bone shaker, superb climbing FA: Ingvar lidman, 2019 | 25m | |||
25 | ★★ Hunger Games
Bolted arete just left of chimney. FA: Gerry Narkowicz, 17 Apr 2015 | 28m | |||
24 | ★★ Fat Pizza
FA: Jacob Dean, 8 Mar 2021 | 20m, 14 | |||
22 | ★ Rhino Bucket
bolted climb left of fat pizza. start up crack to stand on ledge. traverse left to mantle followed by nice slab face climbing. FA: Jacob Dean, 3 Apr 2021 | 20m | |||
East Fingal Valley Appetite Hill Upper left tier | |||||
22 | ★ Slapped sideways
20m after traversing around the exposed arête lies this enjoyable short face climb. thin, sustained and technical climbing FA: andrew martin, 2019 | 4 | |||
21 | ★ Die hard
Short but sweet, Technical face climbing past 5 bolts to chains FA: Andrew martin | 10m, 5 | |||
East Fingal Valley Appetite Hill Proposition Rock | |||||
22 | ★★ The Proposal
A sustained and technical route up the face of largest protrusion. Up the the initial face, then over to the stepped arete, before returning to the face and up through a loose looking but solid flake to chains FA: Pierce Brickell, 22 Nov 2023 | 16m, 6 | |||
East Fingal Valley Bare Rock Boneyard | |||||
23 | ★★ Smoke on the Water
Starts up Fire in The Sky heads left on rings. FA: Paul Frothy Thomson, 9 Gen 2015 | 30m | |||
23 | ★★ Fire in the sky
The easiest sport route in the area, technical face climbing. | 30m, 16 | |||
27 | ★ Redneck Heaven
Takes the wall between Redneck Love and Heaven Can Wait. The climb shares a few holds with Heaven Can Wait however the upper crux is completely independent. A midway rest (where a delicate no hander can be fashioned) keeps the grade sensible. FFA: Ingvar Lidman, 5 Gen 2019 | 30m | |||
24 | ★★★ Heaven Can Wait
A fantastic route. Technical and sustained face climbing that keeps you engaged the whole way. FFA: Gerry Narkowicz, 2011 | 30m, 14 | |||
25 | ★★★ Dopamine
The direct line of bolts branching to the right off Heaven Can Wait at its 4th bolt. Thinner, more technical and equally as good as Heaven Can Wait, but compromised by the ability to step into the crack of Latex Evening to gain a no hands rest. Superb climbing. FFA: Gerry Narkowicz, 2012 | 30m, 15 | |||
28 | ★★ Chase that Feeling
The line immediately right of the big crack bordering the orange shield. Several powerful moves low down followed by a sustained section of insecure slab climbing up the orange shield. Then a heartbreaking crux over the final roof. FFA: Chris Coppard, 2012 | 35m | |||
26 | ★★★ Velvet Morning
"A mind-bending excursion up the awesome orange shield" Follow the orange crack on to the face then out the top roof. World class. FFA: Ingvar Lidman, 2011 | 30m, 14 | |||
26 | ★★★ Queen of the Galaxy
Hard for the grade, but worth the effort. Named for the Subtitle (secondary title) to the Jane Fonda softcore porno: Barbarella. Links the lower half of Barbarella into the upper part of Velvet Morning via 4 new bolts and 8m of new (and tough) face climbing, eliminating the rests on both routes in the process. Climb Barbarella to the 7th bolt, and continue through the Shield crux to where it traverses sharply right (just before the 8th bolt). Straight up via new bolt, and continue up passing 3 more bolts to rejoin Velvet Morning at the undercling jug (hold shared with Chainsaws, Guns and Dogs). Step left into Velvet morning passing 3 bolts, and the nails roof-turn to the anchor. Tracciata: Paul Frothy Thomson | 32m, 14 | |||
27 | ★★ Barberella!
Climbs the R-trending diagonal line on the orange shield. Crosses Chainsaws, Guns and Dogs then finishes at the same anchors. FFA: Ingvar Lidman, 2013 | 35m | |||
Closed Project Garry (1)
Straight up the awesome red wall after the first few bolts of White Powder. Should clock in at around 33. Tracciata: Garry Phillip's | 30m | ||||
★★★ Closed Project Garry (2)
Climbs White Powder to the bolt before the rest and then step leftwards into Garry's other project and finish up that. Very sustained. Tracciata: Garry Phillips | |||||
31 | ★★★ White Powder
Hard man power endurance up a fantastic line. Stay out of the corner. FFA: Garry Phillip's, 2012 | 25m | |||
23 | ★★ White Powder Warmup (To the 7th Bolt)
Climb White Powder to the 7th bolt. The best warmup for the Boneyard. FA: Garry Phillips | 12m, 7 | |||
28 | ★★ Jetstream
Climbs Vapour Trail to the first anchors then left via a V5 boulder. FFA: Garry Phillip's, 2012 | 35m | |||
26 | ★★★ Vapour Trail (Pitch 1)
Climb Vapour Trail for 25m to a DBB. Make sure you go to the anchor on the left and not the one for Give A Dog A Bone. Sustained climbing, big moves on big holds. | 25m | |||
27 | ★★★ Vapour Trail
Harder than it looks. | 35m | |||
27 | ★★ Legends Never Die
Climb Vapour Trail then head far right via a steep boulder problem. FFA: Garry Phillip's, 2013 | 35m | |||
33 | ★★★ Call of the Void
A striking line up the blank, overhanging shield. Easy climbing leads to a powerful crux with multiple options, all of which are hard. Followed by a few pump cruxes high above the hard moves. FA: Ryan Sklenica, 2022 | ||||
28 | ★★★ Atomic Vampire
Another brilliant line of powerful dead points and amazing side pulls, the top section is no cake walk either. FFA: Ingvar Lidman, 2012 | 20m | |||
Marks project
Now open project, Direct start to 2 fast 2 Furious Thin, powerful and sick climbing | |||||
27 | ★★ 2 Fast 2 Furious
Sustained excellent climbing. FFA: Garry Phillip's, 2011 | 15m, 8 | |||
29 | ★★★ Tiger Bean
Powerful boulder climbing. FFA: Garry Phillip's, 2011 | 15m | |||
26 | ★★ Bad to the Bone
The last current climb on the wall, technical fingery climbing. FFA: Garry Phillip's, 2011 | 15m | |||
East Fingal Valley Bare Rock Orange Crush Ledge | |||||
25 | ★★ Amber Allure
The "easy exit" from the Orange Crush ledge can be used as a way of climbing Black Fire to the top of the cliff (at a similar grade), as a way of exiting Orange Crush Ledge, or as a fun single pitch in its own right. From the belay, move left and up, following incipient crack to bulge. Left at bulge and up onto ledge. Hard moves off ledge, then easier climbing up and right to a final punchy finish on small crimps. Can JUST lower back to the belay on a 60m rope (tie a knot in the end!) Tracciata: Paul Frothy Thomson, 16 Mar 2016 FA: Paul Frothy Thomson, 30 Mar 2016 | 32m, 16 | |||
27 | ★★ Ambur Allure Direct
Climbs Amber Allure to the 6th bolt, then heads directly up the steep, thin face (where AA traverses left through the bulge) via punchy moves, the join Amber Allure just before it's top headwall. FA: Garry Phillips Tracciata: Garry Phillips, 31 Mar 2016 | 25m | |||
Ingvar's Project - CLOSED PROJECT
Up Obsidian Obsession for 4 bolts, then head left and up to bulge. Extremely tough moves past 3 bolts, then easier -but engaging- slabbing to rejoin Obsidian Obsession at the last bolt. | 25m | ||||
★★★ Obsidian Obsession - Project Paul
CLOSED PROJECT - The line of bolts up the black streak left of Orange Crush, starting from the same small belay ledge. | 25m, 11 | ||||
29 | ★★ Orange Crush
FA: Ingvar Lidman | 25m | |||
East Fingal Valley Bare Rock Main Face | |||||
23 | ★ Juice on the loose
Starts just left of fixed line from the boneyard access ledge. Pitch 1: 30m gr18. follow line of bolts up and right to a delicate last love to clip DBB. Pitch 2: 25m gr23/24. harder if shorter. Continue straight up from belay with technical climbing on small holds. Exciting moves pulling through roof to jugs. Excellent slab climbing with some delicate moves to finish on the boneyard decent ledge. FA: Gerry Narkowicz, 3 Lug 2022 | 60m, 2, 28 | |||
21 | ★★ Rainbow in the Dark
Locate the start on the slab directly below the rightmost end of the Boneyard. To get there, follow orange tags towards Bare Rock in rough alignment as the road to the shipping container. P1 (18) 30m - Up surprisingly steep box groove and slab finale. P2 (21) 30m - Steep moves and thin crux to start, then onward to great slabbing and another crux. P3 (19) 25m - Up face and slab (unpleasant start) with tricky face moves at the top. P4 (19) 25m - More slab, with a hard first sequence, and a desperate one to gain the belay. P5 (18) 25m - Up, with a few challenging moves on deteriorating rock. Easy chossy climbing to arrive at the righthand end of The Boneyard. Rap the route (5 x 30m raps or 2 x 60m raps), or climb at The Boneyard and exit via the fixed lines. FA: Gerry Narkowicz, 21 Feb 2016 FA: Gerry Narkowicz & Paul Frothy Thomson, 6 Mar 2016 | 140m, 5 | |||
25 | ★★ Black Fire
A varied multipitch up the main face, which is more "fun" than some of the sustained slab multis nearby. Marred by sections of friable rock. Start at base of ramp leading up to Sapphire Rose (et al.) below belay point 6m off the ground (Bisso of Orange belay). The line of bolts trending righy from this foreshortened belay is Bisso of Orange. It is best to belay from the ground and climb past the Bisso of Orange belay as a giant 40m pitch. P1 40m (21) - Up easy start passing interim belay, and continuing up technical slab for 40m to belay. The rock quality deteriorates as this pitch progresses. P2 32m (25) - Follow line of bolts right off belay, up technical slab on fragile rock to steep bulge. Turn steep bulge with a big throw to finish, then technical finale trending left to join another line of bolts at the belay. P3 35m (21) - More thin slabbing on better rock, with a very profound crux at half height. P4 20m 20) - Easy slabbing upwards with a brief hard move past a rooflet, to elay on ledge below Orange Crush. Either rap from here (3 x raps with double ropes) or finish up Orange Crush or Obsidian Obsession. | 130m, 4 | |||
27 | ★ Surfer Rosa
Alternate second pitch to Black Fire. FA: Ingvar Lidman | 30m | |||
26 | ★ Bisso of Orange
Start at base of ramp leading up to Sapphire Rose (et al.) below belay point 6m off the ground. The line of bolts trending up from this foreshortened belay is Black Fire. Bisso of Orange goes right. It is best to belay from the ground and climb past the foreshortened belay as a giant 35m pitch. P1 - 35m (16) P2 - 30m (22) P3 - 30m (22) P4 - 35m (22) P5 - 25m (26) P6 - 30m (21) | 180m, 6 | |||
25 | ★★★ Into the Mystic
Starts as for P1 of Sapphire Rose. P1 35m (22) - Up Sapphire Rose P1 for 15m, then follow fixed hangers leading left and up with hard slab moves to the belay. P2 20m (25) - Up small corner/flake then onward through sustained thin crimping. P3 25m (24) - Traverse scarily left from the belay then upwards with increasing difficulty to belay. P4 45m (22) - A marathon Pitch of sustained thin slabbing. Up. P5 25m (24) - Steep moves on blocky slopers up the orange headwall to final crux as the last moves of the climb. 3 x raps (25m, 50m, 50m) to get back to the ground. FA: Gerry Narkowicz | 170m, 5 | |||
22 | ★★★ The Sapphire Rose
A classic route of sustained quality and consistency. The route ascends the blank looking face in the middle of the cliff, Starting 10m left of Mornings Minion a rack of seventeen quickdraws and 2 ropes.
FA: S. Edward's & S. Eberhard, 1994 | 78m, 3, 29 | |||
23 | ★★ Mornings Minion
Starts right of Sapphire Rose Start.
FA: Andrew Martin | 83m, 3, 14 | |||
27 | ★★★ Ride the Lightning
The line 5m right of Mornings Minion. Straight up the guts of the wall. P1 - 30m (25/26) - Crimpy, technical and sustained face climbing up the black rock. P2 - 15m (21) - Tricky and awkward. Caution getting to the 3rd bolt from the box groove. Tricky traverse right, then thin slabbing to the belay. Can be easily combined with the next pitch. P3 - 35m (20) - Enjoyable slabbing with the moves getting more interesting in the latter half. P4 - 20m (25) - The boulder problem pitch. Harder if you're short. Hard boulder between 2nd and 3rd bolt, then entertaining steep blocky climbing (gr22) to belay. P5 - 30m (27) - Fingery, thin and hard to read. The thin orange streak leading into the black headwall. P6 - 25m (4) - Junky, loose exit pitch... but only grade 4. Descend by rapping the route as necessary, or walking down via the approach/descent gully on the righthand side (looking out) of the summit. FA: Andrew Martin | 200m, 6 | |||
27 | ★★ Ride the Lightening RHV
FA: Andrew Martin & Ingvar Lidman | 200m, 5 | |||
23 | ★★ Insecurity
Starts at the top of first pitch of RTL, also easily approached via a short bolted traverse from the top of P1 of MM or SR.
FA: Andrew Martin | 50m, 2 | |||
24 | ★★ Ad hominen
Bolted line 2 m right of Ride The Ligthning pitch 1. Somewhat funky slabbing on somewhat delicate rock. Climb directly past the last bolt for maximum crankage. FA: Ingvar Lidman, 7 Giu 2018 | 30m, 12 | |||
25 | ★★ God Monster
Starts at ground level, to the right side of the scree-ramp leading to Sapphire Rose et al. Start just left of a big corner forming a right-leaning arch. Hard and varied. P1 30m (22) - Climb on the right leaning rib along the lip of the arch with progressively increasing difficulty to a tough awkward finale. P2 30m (22) - Trend right along the lip of the arch with an easy start leading to much thin face climbing. P3 35m (25) - Up. Through a vague square cut corner/rooflet, and up a very thin and technical slab on spaced bolts. P4 30m (25) - Straight up the steep headwall with pumpy, powerful climbing to a final thin headwall on black rock (can be a bit dirty). Descent via 2 x 60m raps to the ground - top rap is 62m+... you might make it simul-rapping but tie knots!! Alternately 35m/30m/55m rap. FA: Ingvar Lidmin | 130m, 4 | |||
24 | ★★ Godhead's Lament
A mighty steep pitch that can be climbed as a single pitch, or as a harder start to God Monster. Starts 6m right of God Monster on the steep underside of the arch that God Monster traverses around. Up via much steepness (by Bare Rock standards) remaining on the underside of the arch (its possible to stem off the right-corner in the lower 1/3rd without changing the grade), finishing up at the anchor at the end of God Monster Pitch 1 after the last ringbolt on the face. Tracciata: Paul Frothy Thomson, 2 Feb 2016 FA: Paul Frothy Thomson, 4 Feb 2016 | 25m, 11 | |||
26 | ★★ Influence of a Drowsy God
The continuation of Godhead's Lament past 8 more bolts through even more ridiculously steep climbing. Start up Godhead's Lament. At the 2nd last bolt of GL (the fixed hanger before the ringbolt) trend right and up past 8 more bolts. Tracciata: Paul Frothy Thomson, 17 Feb 2016 FA: Paul Frothy Thomson, 9 Mar 2016 | 35m, 16 | |||
21 | ★★ Yesterday's Hero
Start as for Tomorrow's Dream, climbing directly up to the ledge. Then up following technical black slab for 35m, with varied moves of increasing difficulty. Combine with P3 of Tomorrow's Dream for a brilliant 2-pitch multi following some of the best rock in the area. FA: Gerry Narkowicz, 30 Apr 2016 | 45m | |||
26 | ★★★ Agony and Ecstasy in Eight Parts
A Symphony of Rock! The line of bolts left of Tomorrow's Dream is part of a multipitch being developed that tackles the entire Bare Rock face, around the roof, and up the headwall to the top. Bring 2 x 60m ropes (or 1 x 80m rope), 16 quickdraws, and plenty of muscles. P1 - 30m (16) 12 Bolts - "The Easy Slab Pitch" - As for Tomorrow's Dream Pitch 1. P2 - 20m (24) 6 Bolts - "The Funky Roof-Turn Pitch" - Straight up the orange face above the belay, to hard (and funky!) moves getting into the roof, turning the lip and getting established on the face. Easier slab climbing above to belay. MOVE BELAY UP 5M to RINGS JUST BELOW SHORT SLAB (5m left of Tomorrow's Dream Pitch 3). P3 - 12m (21) 6 bolts - "The Hard Slab Pitch" - Climb the short, technical black slab above. Up past 2 bolts, then traverse right (to avoid very bad rock), and the up via hard moves. P4 - 45m (23) 14 Bolts - "The Tenuous Traverse Pitch" - Hard moves off the belay around the bulge, then sustained insecure traversing left below the roofs for 4 bolts. Traverse more easily left to below the final roof. Turn the roof, then continue up Black-and-Yellow streaked slab to belay just below The Great Roof. Some strategically placed long runners will be crucial for mitigating rope drag. P5 - 15m (26) 7 Bolts - "The Outrageous Roof Pitch" - Head directly left from the belay, staying at the same height as the bolts (via desperate sloper-slapping and heel hooking) to a penultimate move to bridge the void between the end of the roof and the Easter-Rising Ledge-system. Stay low (you shouldn't need to touch the Guano) and traverse left along the ledge to belay below the Black Streak. (The next line of Fixed Hangers to the right is Enchanted to a Stone). P6 - 15m (25) 8 bolts - "The Bouldery Black-Streak Pitch" - Step left off the belay and up past 2 bolts to boudery climbing with a powerful, juggy finale to belay on ledge. P7 - 15m (24) 7 bolts - "The Technical Stemming Pitch" - Left past a bolt to join Enchanted to a Stone just before the crux of that route. Up through the stepped roofs to belay on top of headwall. P8 - 25m (12) 6 bolts - "The Junky Exit Pitch" - Just an exit pitch. Head up off the belay, traverse right, up a bit, then more right, and a touch more up to belay at top of cliff. Average rock, but not too terrible. DESCENT: Top out, and walk back down the Approach/Descent Gully at the far Right-Hand side (looking out) of the summit of Bare Rock. Pitches 1 - 4 (up to The Great Roof) can be rapped with 2 x 60m ropes down the line of the climb to reach the ground. For Pitches 5 - 8, you can rap the Easter Rising face to the Belay below Pitch 6 (on the ledge above the Great Roof) being careful not to get stranded in space from the steepness, then rap 30m straight down to a belay on its own in the middle of nowhere. Then rap 35m again diagonally right (looking in) to the anchors at the top of Yesterday's Hero. Be careful not to get the rope stuck in the crack, or to pull any loose rock onto yourself. Then rap 40m to the ground. Tracciata: Paul Frothy Thomson, 16 Apr 2016 FFA: Paul Frothy Thomson, 30 Apr 2016 | 180m, 8 | |||
19 | ★★ Tomorrows Dream
1
16
2
17
3
19
A 'mostly' sport route offering three varied pitches.
| 100m, 3 | |||
23 | ★★ Tomorrows Dream - Variant 2nd Pitch
An alternate 2nd pitch to Tomorrows Dream making the route fully bolted. | 20m | |||
23 | ★ HomoClimbtastic
Varient last pitch of Tomorrows Dream Cruxy | 30m | |||
23 | ★★ The Best Thing Since Powdered Milk
The line of bolts between Tomorrow's Dream and Rocketman with a very hard start. FA: Gerry Narkowicz | 33m | |||
26 | ★ Cock Rocket
The rightward-trending line of bolts right of The Best Thing Since Powdered Milk. FA: Ingvar Lidmin | 30m | |||
22 | ★★ Underestimated
A nouveau classic featuring funky and unlikely climbing up a corner system to an airy traverse to finish. FA: Andrew Martin | 25m | |||
28 | Dildano
Start right of Underestimated. Vicious. FA: Ingvar Lidman | 25m | |||
East Fingal Valley Bare Rock Easter Rising Face | |||||
25 | ★ A Terrible Beauty
Starts a few meters left of Easter Rising, crosses MacDonagh 8m up, then continuing up the steep, roofy face above. FA: Gerry Narkowicz | 45m | |||
25 | ★★★ Easter Rising
FA: Gerry Narkowicz | 40m | |||
24 | ★★ Enchanted to a Stone
Start as for Easter Rising, then at the first ledge, take the line of bolts to the RIGHT up a steepening face, before tackling the very cruxy series of stepped roofs at the top. | 45m | |||
27 M1 R | ★★ Masked Lapwing
Traverses the lip of The Great Roof for 40m. Why? Why not? Quite the adventure. About as exposed as it gets, and blessed with stunning rock, and gymnastic moves. Hampered by an easy aid move at the start of each pitch, complex amounts of faff, and a somewhat sketchy second pitch. Start at the belay below Pitch 6 of Agony and Ecstasy in 8 Parts (below the black streak). Access via rap-in for Easter Rising face, or climbing the first 5 pitches of Agony and Ecstasy, or via Tomorrow's Dream-Easter Rising linkup (5 pitches to the black streak ledge).
NOTE: With Pitch 2, it's important to have a lot of slack in the system (aiming for 6-8m falls) in order to avoid both the roof below the headwall, and another series of roofs hidden below. Due to the fully hanging belay, its hard to effectively give slack, and throughout the crux the climber is hard to see. On the FA, the climber was fairly seriously injured hitting this low roof despite a seemingly clean fall. To escape, rap using 2 x 60m ropes from the anchors at the end of P2. A pair of 60m dynamic ropes will just make it to the belay below P3 of Tomorrow's Dream with stretch. Be careful with rope length, and dont waste too much rope in the knot. From there, continue to rap down Tomorrow's Dream. FA: Paul Frothy Thomson, Jared Anderson & Stephen Varney, 5 Mag 2022 | 40m, 2 | |||
27 | ★★ Green Spandex
Powerful moves following an incipient diagonal crack on the 20 degree overhanging headwall above The Great Roof. The Belay is a fully-hanging stance on the very lip of the roof. Getting to the climb is a big undertaking. From the top of Bare Rock, locate the rap-access anchors for the Easter Rising Face (about 50m right (looking out) of the Supernaut top anchor, tucked away among some scraggly bushes near the cliff edge (ignore another set of anchors in the open between the Supernaut anchors and the Easter Rising anchors - these are the top-out anchors for Master of Puppets)). Fix a 60m rope, rap down and redirect the rap-rope off a single bolt (on McDonagh face), then rap down and right (looking in) aiming for a double U-bolt belay about 10m right of the direct rap line. Redirect the rap-rope again off these anchors, and rap down the overhanging headwall (clip into bolts on the way down, as the line is very steep, and diagonal) to the belay on the lip of the Great Roof. A 60m rope JUST reaches (tie a knot in the end). Climb the Diagonal crack past 5 bolts to the anchors. Then Jumaar 40m back to the top. FA: Chris Coppard | 18m, 5 | |||
East Fingal Valley Bare Rock Supernaut Face | |||||
25 | ★★ Peppa Pig
Starts 7m left of Into the Void. Ramble up the slab. Then do a techo sequence of moves to get into the roof. Powerful moves through this and the corner above. Traverse left and up to the chains of Master of Puppets. FA: Garry Phillips, 2013 | 20m | |||
25 | ★★ Mr Potato
Your friend and mine. Starts up Peppa Pig but at the top of the corner head up and right past 3 BR. FA: Garry Phillips, 2014 | 18m |