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Grado Via Stile equipaggiamento Popolarità
East Freycinet National Park Hazards Cliffs Wombat Crag Upper Tier
23 Entente Cordiale
Sportiva 35m
East Freycinet National Park Hazards Cliffs Wombat Crag Inchman Crag
26 Toe the Line

FA: Nick & Heather Hancock, Giu 2018

Sportiva 25m, 9
22 Knocked Up On Cheap Champagne

Trends left and then straight up (broken hold between 2nd and 3rd)

FA: Norm Selby & Robert DeCasare, 2004

Sportiva 50m
24 Top Of My To Do List

Technical slab climbing up a white water groove.

FA: Doug McConnell, 2004

Sportiva 15m, 4
East Freycinet National Park Hazards Cliffs Wombat Crag Fat Slipper Area
21 Fat Slipper

Facing Inchman, on the opposite of the gully. Climb fixed hangers to right of waterstreak on small holds to DHB.

FA: N.Selby, A. Mason 7 Aug 2004 & A.Mason, 2004

FA: N.Selby & A.Mason, 2004

Sportiva 18m, 8
East Freycinet National Park Hazards Cliffs Hancocks Knob
22 Hail Caesar
Sportiva 4
22 Sell By Date
Sportiva 4
22 Roger's Strap-on
Sportiva 4
26 Sicker Than AIDS
Sportiva 5
East Freycinet National Park Hazards Cliffs The Kindergarten
24 The Crystal Ball

FA: Nick & Heather Hancock, Apr 2016

Sportiva 25m, 8
East Freycinet National Park Hazards Cliffs Wave Wall
20 Probability Wave

FA: Heather & Nick Hancock, 2013

Sportiva 25m, 7
24 Uncertainty Principle

The bolted line right of PW. Joins up to PW for the last bolt or so.

Sportiva 25m, 6
East Freycinet National Park Hazards Cliffs Gracelands
22 Leap Of Faith

Its all about the start, and what a start it is! Bonus points if you don't stick clip the first bolt. Memorable. DBB.

Sportiva 15m, 4
23 Goodness Gracious

Sustained climbing up featured arete and face. Trad gear required for belay.

FA: R Parkyn, 1993

Sportiva 12m, 4
27 Flow Rida

FA: Ken Palmer, 2008

Sportiva 10m
26 Born Under a Bad Sign

Climb the arete right of Ju Ju.

FA: Hancock & Parkyn, 2004

Sportiva 15m, 4
22 Elvis Goes Metal

Good old fashioned fridge lifting up a short and tenuous pillar.

Sportiva 9m
24 Dead Can't Dance

Arete and face at left end of upper tier. The tree is a great temptation when facing the cruxy start. DBB.

FA: N Hancock, 2001

Sportiva 12m, 4
25 Action Replay

Gymnastic climbing up waterwashed scoops, to the right of DCD. DBB.

FA: S Edwards & G Phillips, 1995

Sportiva 12m, 4
East Freycinet National Park Hazards Cliffs Broadway
The Shining Path

FA: Nick & Heather Hancock, 2014

Sportiva 30m, 9
East Freycinet National Park Hazards Cliffs Sow Spur
24 Deliverance (aka Squeal Like a Pig)

One of the best, most interesting and well bolted slab climbs in the State. Start below a line of bolts leading up left to the most distinct white streak in the blank slab.

FA: Nick, Heather Hancock & Quinn Griggs, 2010

Sportiva 40m, 12
East Freycinet National Park Hazards Cliffs Mt Amos Mt Amos Lower Slopes South Park
26 Cartman

FA: Nick Hancock, 2001

Sportiva 15m, 6
East Freycinet National Park Hazards Cliffs Mt Amos Mt Amos North Face
23 The Usual Suspects

Varied granite mega pitch, right of RH Negetive. DBB.

FA: N & H Hancock, 2013

Sportiva 50m, 14
25 American Beauty

Right trending line of diagonals. Pumpy, sustained, steep, classy. Best to clean on second.

FA: N & H Hancock J Narcowicz, 2013

Sportiva 32m, 13
24 The Wolfpack

Climbs the big L facing corner 20m L of Incipience.

  1. 20m 22 Just an access pitch. Boulder into a shallow groove then clip bolts on a sharp arete whilst most likely climbing the finger crack to a DBB.

  2. 20m 24 Step R and bridge up the tricky corner to a DBB.

FA: Nick, Heather Hancock & June 2015, Mag 2015

Sportiva 40m, 2
27 Catch 22
  1. Sidle out right along ledge from start of Incipient and climb the flakes (natural gear) to double fixed hanger below.

  2. Climb the flake feature and corner above, with crux moves pulling into the hanging corner four bolts from the top.

FA: Nick & Heather Hancock

Sportiva 35m, 2, 9
26 A Tenuous Grip On Reality

Some very thin slabbing

Sportiva 30m, 12
24 Travels with my Wife and Pet Wookie
Sportiva 47m, 17
19 I Wish She Were Mine

Left of the two bolted routes facing the walking track to the summit on the right side of the cliff. A toughstart to gain the dyke feature. DBB.

FA: N Selby, 2004

Sportiva 17m, 7
22 No Friends Nutter

Wall right of IWSWM, with a technical and powerful middle section. DBB.

FA: N Selby, 2004

Sportiva 17m, 7
22 Fin D'amour

Bolted arete on face immediatly below main face. No bolted belay.

FA: Nick Hancock & Andrew Bissett, 2001

Sportiva 20m, 5
East Freycinet National Park Hazards Cliffs Mt Amos Mt Amos West Face
23 The Elegant Universe

FA: Nick & Heather Hancock, 2013

Sportiva 25m, 8
East Fingal Valley Appetite Hill Lower Right Tier
30 Queer Core

A grade 30 slab. Does anything more need to be said?

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 28 Apr 2021

Sportiva 25m
24 Eating the Cannibals

Bolted arete left of deep chimney

FA: 18 Apr 2015

Sportiva 15m
24 Limp wrist

face climb starts up left side of the flake shared with bone shaker, superb climbing

FA: Ingvar lidman, 2019

Sportiva 25m
25 Hunger Games

Bolted arete just left of chimney.

FA: Gerry Narkowicz, 17 Apr 2015

Sportiva 28m
24 Fat Pizza

FA: Jacob Dean, 8 Mar 2021

Sportiva 20m, 14
22 Rhino Bucket

bolted climb left of fat pizza. start up crack to stand on ledge. traverse left to mantle followed by nice slab face climbing.

FA: Jacob Dean, 3 Apr 2021

Sportiva 20m
East Fingal Valley Appetite Hill Upper left tier
22 Slapped sideways

20m after traversing around the exposed arête lies this enjoyable short face climb. thin, sustained and technical climbing

FA: andrew martin, 2019

Sportiva 4
21 Die hard

Short but sweet, Technical face climbing past 5 bolts to chains

FA: Andrew martin

Sportiva 10m, 5
East Fingal Valley Appetite Hill Proposition Rock
22 The Proposal

A sustained and technical route up the face of largest protrusion. Up the the initial face, then over to the stepped arete, before returning to the face and up through a loose looking but solid flake to chains

FA: Pierce Brickell, 22 Nov 2023

Sportiva 16m, 6
East Fingal Valley Bare Rock Boneyard
23 Smoke on the Water

Starts up Fire in The Sky heads left on rings.

FA: Paul Frothy Thomson, 9 Gen 2015

Sportiva 30m
23 Fire in the sky

The easiest sport route in the area, technical face climbing.

Sportiva 30m, 16
27 Redneck Heaven

Takes the wall between Redneck Love and Heaven Can Wait. The climb shares a few holds with Heaven Can Wait however the upper crux is completely independent. A midway rest (where a delicate no hander can be fashioned) keeps the grade sensible.

FFA: Ingvar Lidman, 5 Gen 2019

Sportiva 30m
24 Heaven Can Wait

A fantastic route. Technical and sustained face climbing that keeps you engaged the whole way.

FFA: Gerry Narkowicz, 2011

Sportiva 30m, 14
25 Dopamine

The direct line of bolts branching to the right off Heaven Can Wait at its 4th bolt.

Thinner, more technical and equally as good as Heaven Can Wait, but compromised by the ability to step into the crack of Latex Evening to gain a no hands rest. Superb climbing.

FFA: Gerry Narkowicz, 2012

Sportiva 30m, 15
28 Chase that Feeling

The line immediately right of the big crack bordering the orange shield.

Several powerful moves low down followed by a sustained section of insecure slab climbing up the orange shield. Then a heartbreaking crux over the final roof.

FFA: Chris Coppard, 2012

Sportiva 35m
26 Velvet Morning

"A mind-bending excursion up the awesome orange shield"

Follow the orange crack on to the face then out the top roof. World class.

FFA: Ingvar Lidman, 2011

Sportiva 30m, 14
26 Queen of the Galaxy

Hard for the grade, but worth the effort. Named for the Subtitle (secondary title) to the Jane Fonda softcore porno: Barbarella.

Links the lower half of Barbarella into the upper part of Velvet Morning via 4 new bolts and 8m of new (and tough) face climbing, eliminating the rests on both routes in the process.

Climb Barbarella to the 7th bolt, and continue through the Shield crux to where it traverses sharply right (just before the 8th bolt). Straight up via new bolt, and continue up passing 3 more bolts to rejoin Velvet Morning at the undercling jug (hold shared with Chainsaws, Guns and Dogs). Step left into Velvet morning passing 3 bolts, and the nails roof-turn to the anchor.

Sportiva 32m, 14
27 Barberella!

Climbs the R-trending diagonal line on the orange shield. Crosses Chainsaws, Guns and Dogs then finishes at the same anchors.

FFA: Ingvar Lidman, 2013

Sportiva 35m
Closed Project Garry (1)

Straight up the awesome red wall after the first few bolts of White Powder. Should clock in at around 33.

Tracciata: Garry Phillip's

SportivaProgetto 30m
Closed Project Garry (2)

Climbs White Powder to the bolt before the rest and then step leftwards into Garry's other project and finish up that. Very sustained.

Tracciata: Garry Phillips

Sportiva
31 White Powder

Hard man power endurance up a fantastic line. Stay out of the corner.

FFA: Garry Phillip's, 2012

Sportiva 25m
23 White Powder Warmup (To the 7th Bolt)

Climb White Powder to the 7th bolt. The best warmup for the Boneyard.

FA: Garry Phillips

Sportiva 12m, 7
28 Jetstream

Climbs Vapour Trail to the first anchors then left via a V5 boulder.

FFA: Garry Phillip's, 2012

Sportiva 35m
26 Vapour Trail (Pitch 1)

Climb Vapour Trail for 25m to a DBB. Make sure you go to the anchor on the left and not the one for Give A Dog A Bone. Sustained climbing, big moves on big holds.

Sportiva 25m
27 Vapour Trail

Harder than it looks.

Sportiva 35m
27 Legends Never Die

Climb Vapour Trail then head far right via a steep boulder problem.

FFA: Garry Phillip's, 2013

Sportiva 35m
33 Call of the Void

A striking line up the blank, overhanging shield. Easy climbing leads to a powerful crux with multiple options, all of which are hard. Followed by a few pump cruxes high above the hard moves.

FA: Ryan Sklenica, 2022

Sportiva
28 Atomic Vampire

Another brilliant line of powerful dead points and amazing side pulls, the top section is no cake walk either.

FFA: Ingvar Lidman, 2012

Sportiva 20m
Marks project

Now open project, Direct start to 2 fast 2 Furious Thin, powerful and sick climbing

SportivaProgetto
27 2 Fast 2 Furious

Sustained excellent climbing.

FFA: Garry Phillip's, 2011

Sportiva 15m, 8
29 Tiger Bean

Powerful boulder climbing.

FFA: Garry Phillip's, 2011

Sportiva 15m
26 Bad to the Bone

The last current climb on the wall, technical fingery climbing.

FFA: Garry Phillip's, 2011

Sportiva 15m
East Fingal Valley Bare Rock Orange Crush Ledge
25 Amber Allure

The "easy exit" from the Orange Crush ledge can be used as a way of climbing Black Fire to the top of the cliff (at a similar grade), as a way of exiting Orange Crush Ledge, or as a fun single pitch in its own right.

From the belay, move left and up, following incipient crack to bulge. Left at bulge and up onto ledge. Hard moves off ledge, then easier climbing up and right to a final punchy finish on small crimps.

Can JUST lower back to the belay on a 60m rope (tie a knot in the end!)

Tracciata: Paul Frothy Thomson, 16 Mar 2016

FA: Paul Frothy Thomson, 30 Mar 2016

Sportiva 32m, 16
27 Ambur Allure Direct

Climbs Amber Allure to the 6th bolt, then heads directly up the steep, thin face (where AA traverses left through the bulge) via punchy moves, the join Amber Allure just before it's top headwall.

FA: Garry Phillips

Tracciata: Garry Phillips, 31 Mar 2016

Sportiva 25m
Ingvar's Project - CLOSED PROJECT

Up Obsidian Obsession for 4 bolts, then head left and up to bulge. Extremely tough moves past 3 bolts, then easier -but engaging- slabbing to rejoin Obsidian Obsession at the last bolt.

SportivaProgetto 25m
Obsidian Obsession - Project Paul

CLOSED PROJECT - The line of bolts up the black streak left of Orange Crush, starting from the same small belay ledge.

SportivaProgetto 25m, 11
29 Orange Crush

FA: Ingvar Lidman

Sportiva 25m
East Fingal Valley Bare Rock Main Face
23 Juice on the loose

Starts just left of fixed line from the boneyard access ledge. Pitch 1: 30m gr18. follow line of bolts up and right to a delicate last love to clip DBB.

Pitch 2: 25m gr23/24. harder if shorter. Continue straight up from belay with technical climbing on small holds. Exciting moves pulling through roof to jugs. Excellent slab climbing with some delicate moves to finish on the boneyard decent ledge.

FA: Gerry Narkowicz, 3 Lug 2022

Sportiva 60m, 2, 28
21 Rainbow in the Dark

Locate the start on the slab directly below the rightmost end of the Boneyard. To get there, follow orange tags towards Bare Rock in rough alignment as the road to the shipping container.

P1 (18) 30m - Up surprisingly steep box groove and slab finale.

P2 (21) 30m - Steep moves and thin crux to start, then onward to great slabbing and another crux.

P3 (19) 25m - Up face and slab (unpleasant start) with tricky face moves at the top.

P4 (19) 25m - More slab, with a hard first sequence, and a desperate one to gain the belay.

P5 (18) 25m - Up, with a few challenging moves on deteriorating rock. Easy chossy climbing to arrive at the righthand end of The Boneyard.

Rap the route (5 x 30m raps or 2 x 60m raps), or climb at The Boneyard and exit via the fixed lines.

FA: Gerry Narkowicz, 21 Feb 2016

FA: Gerry Narkowicz & Paul Frothy Thomson, 6 Mar 2016

Sportiva 140m, 5
25 Black Fire

A varied multipitch up the main face, which is more "fun" than some of the sustained slab multis nearby. Marred by sections of friable rock.

Start at base of ramp leading up to Sapphire Rose (et al.) below belay point 6m off the ground (Bisso of Orange belay). The line of bolts trending righy from this foreshortened belay is Bisso of Orange.

It is best to belay from the ground and climb past the Bisso of Orange belay as a giant 40m pitch.

P1 40m (21) - Up easy start passing interim belay, and continuing up technical slab for 40m to belay. The rock quality deteriorates as this pitch progresses.

P2 32m (25) - Follow line of bolts right off belay, up technical slab on fragile rock to steep bulge. Turn steep bulge with a big throw to finish, then technical finale trending left to join another line of bolts at the belay.

P3 35m (21) - More thin slabbing on better rock, with a very profound crux at half height.

P4 20m 20) - Easy slabbing upwards with a brief hard move past a rooflet, to elay on ledge below Orange Crush.

Either rap from here (3 x raps with double ropes) or finish up Orange Crush or Obsidian Obsession.

Sportiva 130m, 4
27 Surfer Rosa

Alternate second pitch to Black Fire.

FA: Ingvar Lidman

Sportiva 30m
26 Bisso of Orange

Start at base of ramp leading up to Sapphire Rose (et al.) below belay point 6m off the ground. The line of bolts trending up from this foreshortened belay is Black Fire. Bisso of Orange goes right.

It is best to belay from the ground and climb past the foreshortened belay as a giant 35m pitch.

P1 - 35m (16)

P2 - 30m (22)

P3 - 30m (22)

P4 - 35m (22)

P5 - 25m (26)

P6 - 30m (21)

Sportiva 180m, 6
25 Into the Mystic

Starts as for P1 of Sapphire Rose.

P1 35m (22) - Up Sapphire Rose P1 for 15m, then follow fixed hangers leading left and up with hard slab moves to the belay.

P2 20m (25) - Up small corner/flake then onward through sustained thin crimping.

P3 25m (24) - Traverse scarily left from the belay then upwards with increasing difficulty to belay.

P4 45m (22) - A marathon Pitch of sustained thin slabbing. Up.

P5 25m (24) - Steep moves on blocky slopers up the orange headwall to final crux as the last moves of the climb.

3 x raps (25m, 50m, 50m) to get back to the ground.

Sportiva 170m, 5
22 The Sapphire Rose

A classic route of sustained quality and consistency. The route ascends the blank looking face in the middle of the cliff, Starting 10m left of Mornings Minion a rack of seventeen quickdraws and 2 ropes.

  1. 35m 22 Fifteen bolts to chain. Ascend the juggy wall, pull through the roof and then head straight up to a good resting spot. Continue up the wall above to the L end of a diagonal line rising to the R. Make a spectacular and sustained traverse R to belay on a small foot ledge.

  2. 15m 21 Five bolts to chain. Traverse delicately L and then straight up the tricky face to the belay ledge.

  3. 28m 21 Nine bolts to chain. Take care getting to the first bolt, then climb the superb face above to belay below the final head-wall. Steep slab climbing at its best!

FA: S. Edward's & S. Eberhard, 1994

Sportiva 78m, 3, 29
23 Mornings Minion

Starts right of Sapphire Rose Start.

  1. 23 30 m step left from the ramp then straight up to join Sapphire Rose at the final move through the roof to shared P1 anchors.

  2. 23 18m up through roof then move right and up to ledge and DBB

  3. 22 35m cross left over diagonal crack then up to slabby crux before trending right through steeper territory. Step right to DBB and abseil point after small roof, or continue past final 2 bolts to the Medicine cabinet. (40 m to there)

FA: Andrew Martin

Sportiva 83m, 3, 14
27 Ride the Lightning

The line 5m right of Mornings Minion. Straight up the guts of the wall.

P1 - 30m (25/26) - Crimpy, technical and sustained face climbing up the black rock.

P2 - 15m (21) - Tricky and awkward. Caution getting to the 3rd bolt from the box groove. Tricky traverse right, then thin slabbing to the belay. Can be easily combined with the next pitch.

P3 - 35m (20) - Enjoyable slabbing with the moves getting more interesting in the latter half.

P4 - 20m (25) - The boulder problem pitch. Harder if you're short. Hard boulder between 2nd and 3rd bolt, then entertaining steep blocky climbing (gr22) to belay.

P5 - 30m (27) - Fingery, thin and hard to read. The thin orange streak leading into the black headwall.

P6 - 25m (4) - Junky, loose exit pitch... but only grade 4.

Descend by rapping the route as necessary, or walking down via the approach/descent gully on the righthand side (looking out) of the summit.

FA: Andrew Martin

Sportiva 200m, 6
27 Ride the Lightening RHV
  1. 25, 30 m, bolted line 3 m right of Ride the Lightening original. Belay as for RTL original at chains.

  2. 22, 15 m, step right and up from belay. Belay at chains on comfortable ledge.

  3. 24, 30 m, thing slab up and right from belay, continuing up past dynamic harder section in the black steepening.

  4. as for RTL.

  5. as for RTL.

Sportiva 200m, 5
23 Insecurity

Starts at the top of first pitch of RTL, also easily approached via a short bolted traverse from the top of P1 of MM or SR.

  1. 23 15 m the right hand line of bolts through roof to rejoin RTL P3 belay

  2. 23 35m head R from the belay via thin holds. Diagonal ramp to left then head wall to finish at Medicine wall and Abseil point. Exactly 35m so be careful descending

FA: Andrew Martin

Sportiva 50m, 2
24 Ad hominen

Bolted line 2 m right of Ride The Ligthning pitch 1. Somewhat funky slabbing on somewhat delicate rock. Climb directly past the last bolt for maximum crankage.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 7 Giu 2018

Sportiva 30m, 12
25 God Monster

Starts at ground level, to the right side of the scree-ramp leading to Sapphire Rose et al. Start just left of a big corner forming a right-leaning arch. Hard and varied.

P1 30m (22) - Climb on the right leaning rib along the lip of the arch with progressively increasing difficulty to a tough awkward finale.

P2 30m (22) - Trend right along the lip of the arch with an easy start leading to much thin face climbing.

P3 35m (25) - Up. Through a vague square cut corner/rooflet, and up a very thin and technical slab on spaced bolts.

P4 30m (25) - Straight up the steep headwall with pumpy, powerful climbing to a final thin headwall on black rock (can be a bit dirty).

Descent via 2 x 60m raps to the ground - top rap is 62m+... you might make it simul-rapping but tie knots!! Alternately 35m/30m/55m rap.

FA: Ingvar Lidmin

Sportiva 130m, 4
24 Godhead's Lament

A mighty steep pitch that can be climbed as a single pitch, or as a harder start to God Monster.

Starts 6m right of God Monster on the steep underside of the arch that God Monster traverses around.

Up via much steepness (by Bare Rock standards) remaining on the underside of the arch (its possible to stem off the right-corner in the lower 1/3rd without changing the grade), finishing up at the anchor at the end of God Monster Pitch 1 after the last ringbolt on the face.

Tracciata: Paul Frothy Thomson, 2 Feb 2016

FA: Paul Frothy Thomson, 4 Feb 2016

Sportiva 25m, 11
26 Influence of a Drowsy God

The continuation of Godhead's Lament past 8 more bolts through even more ridiculously steep climbing.

Start up Godhead's Lament. At the 2nd last bolt of GL (the fixed hanger before the ringbolt) trend right and up past 8 more bolts.

Tracciata: Paul Frothy Thomson, 17 Feb 2016

FA: Paul Frothy Thomson, 9 Mar 2016

Sportiva 35m, 16
21 Yesterday's Hero

Start as for Tomorrow's Dream, climbing directly up to the ledge. Then up following technical black slab for 35m, with varied moves of increasing difficulty.

Combine with P3 of Tomorrow's Dream for a brilliant 2-pitch multi following some of the best rock in the area.

FA: Gerry Narkowicz, 30 Apr 2016

Sportiva 45m
26 Agony and Ecstasy in Eight Parts

A Symphony of Rock!

The line of bolts left of Tomorrow's Dream is part of a multipitch being developed that tackles the entire Bare Rock face, around the roof, and up the headwall to the top.

Bring 2 x 60m ropes (or 1 x 80m rope), 16 quickdraws, and plenty of muscles.

P1 - 30m (16) 12 Bolts - "The Easy Slab Pitch" - As for Tomorrow's Dream Pitch 1.

P2 - 20m (24) 6 Bolts - "The Funky Roof-Turn Pitch" - Straight up the orange face above the belay, to hard (and funky!) moves getting into the roof, turning the lip and getting established on the face. Easier slab climbing above to belay.

MOVE BELAY UP 5M to RINGS JUST BELOW SHORT SLAB (5m left of Tomorrow's Dream Pitch 3).

P3 - 12m (21) 6 bolts - "The Hard Slab Pitch" - Climb the short, technical black slab above. Up past 2 bolts, then traverse right (to avoid very bad rock), and the up via hard moves.

P4 - 45m (23) 14 Bolts - "The Tenuous Traverse Pitch" - Hard moves off the belay around the bulge, then sustained insecure traversing left below the roofs for 4 bolts. Traverse more easily left to below the final roof. Turn the roof, then continue up Black-and-Yellow streaked slab to belay just below The Great Roof. Some strategically placed long runners will be crucial for mitigating rope drag.

P5 - 15m (26) 7 Bolts - "The Outrageous Roof Pitch" - Head directly left from the belay, staying at the same height as the bolts (via desperate sloper-slapping and heel hooking) to a penultimate move to bridge the void between the end of the roof and the Easter-Rising Ledge-system. Stay low (you shouldn't need to touch the Guano) and traverse left along the ledge to belay below the Black Streak. (The next line of Fixed Hangers to the right is Enchanted to a Stone).

P6 - 15m (25) 8 bolts - "The Bouldery Black-Streak Pitch" - Step left off the belay and up past 2 bolts to boudery climbing with a powerful, juggy finale to belay on ledge.

P7 - 15m (24) 7 bolts - "The Technical Stemming Pitch" - Left past a bolt to join Enchanted to a Stone just before the crux of that route. Up through the stepped roofs to belay on top of headwall.

P8 - 25m (12) 6 bolts - "The Junky Exit Pitch" - Just an exit pitch. Head up off the belay, traverse right, up a bit, then more right, and a touch more up to belay at top of cliff. Average rock, but not too terrible.

DESCENT:

Top out, and walk back down the Approach/Descent Gully at the far Right-Hand side (looking out) of the summit of Bare Rock.

Pitches 1 - 4 (up to The Great Roof) can be rapped with 2 x 60m ropes down the line of the climb to reach the ground.

For Pitches 5 - 8, you can rap the Easter Rising face to the Belay below Pitch 6 (on the ledge above the Great Roof) being careful not to get stranded in space from the steepness, then rap 30m straight down to a belay on its own in the middle of nowhere. Then rap 35m again diagonally right (looking in) to the anchors at the top of Yesterday's Hero. Be careful not to get the rope stuck in the crack, or to pull any loose rock onto yourself. Then rap 40m to the ground.

Tracciata: Paul Frothy Thomson, 16 Apr 2016

FFA: Paul Frothy Thomson, 30 Apr 2016

Sportiva 180m, 8
19 Tomorrows Dream
1 16
2 17
3 19

A 'mostly' sport route offering three varied pitches.

  1. P1 is a fully bolted slab (16).

  2. P2 follows loose right trending diagonal line (camming devices) before traversing to bolt on left wall (17). Up to belay.

  3. P3 is brilliant fully bolted grade 19 climbing on great rock.

Sportiva 100m, 3
23 Tomorrows Dream - Variant 2nd Pitch

An alternate 2nd pitch to Tomorrows Dream making the route fully bolted.

Sportiva 20m
23 HomoClimbtastic

Varient last pitch of Tomorrows Dream Cruxy

Sportiva 30m
23 The Best Thing Since Powdered Milk

The line of bolts between Tomorrow's Dream and Rocketman with a very hard start.

Sportiva 33m
26 Cock Rocket

The rightward-trending line of bolts right of The Best Thing Since Powdered Milk.

FA: Ingvar Lidmin

Sportiva 30m
22 Underestimated

A nouveau classic featuring funky and unlikely climbing up a corner system to an airy traverse to finish.

Sportiva 25m
28 Dildano

Start right of Underestimated. Vicious.

FA: Ingvar Lidman

Sportiva 25m
East Fingal Valley Bare Rock Easter Rising Face
25 A Terrible Beauty

Starts a few meters left of Easter Rising, crosses MacDonagh 8m up, then continuing up the steep, roofy face above.

Sportiva 45m
25 Easter Rising Sportiva 40m
24 Enchanted to a Stone

Start as for Easter Rising, then at the first ledge, take the line of bolts to the RIGHT up a steepening face, before tackling the very cruxy series of stepped roofs at the top.

Sportiva 45m
27 M1 R Masked Lapwing

Traverses the lip of The Great Roof for 40m. Why? Why not? Quite the adventure.

About as exposed as it gets, and blessed with stunning rock, and gymnastic moves. Hampered by an easy aid move at the start of each pitch, complex amounts of faff, and a somewhat sketchy second pitch.

Start at the belay below Pitch 6 of Agony and Ecstasy in 8 Parts (below the black streak). Access via rap-in for Easter Rising face, or climbing the first 5 pitches of Agony and Ecstasy, or via Tomorrow's Dream-Easter Rising linkup (5 pitches to the black streak ledge).

  1. 20m (26 M1) Traverse right to a bolt. Up arete and into corner until its possible to clip bolt on right side of corner. Aid off this to gain opposing holds on either side of blunt arete, and continue freeing for the rest of the pitch. Funky, exposed, gymnastic steep climbing, with as much down as up. Finish at Green Spandex belay.

  2. 20m (27 M1 R) Climb the first 2 bolts of Green Spandex, then truck right following horizontal weakness. At 2nd new bolt (4th bolt total), clip and aid off bolt to gain reinforced jug further right. Then continue freeing along technical rising traverse until last bolt, then head directly up to gain 2 bolt belay.

NOTE: With Pitch 2, it's important to have a lot of slack in the system (aiming for 6-8m falls) in order to avoid both the roof below the headwall, and another series of roofs hidden below. Due to the fully hanging belay, its hard to effectively give slack, and throughout the crux the climber is hard to see. On the FA, the climber was fairly seriously injured hitting this low roof despite a seemingly clean fall.

To escape, rap using 2 x 60m ropes from the anchors at the end of P2. A pair of 60m dynamic ropes will just make it to the belay below P3 of Tomorrow's Dream with stretch. Be careful with rope length, and dont waste too much rope in the knot. From there, continue to rap down Tomorrow's Dream.

Sportiva 40m, 2
27 Green Spandex

Powerful moves following an incipient diagonal crack on the 20 degree overhanging headwall above The Great Roof. The Belay is a fully-hanging stance on the very lip of the roof.

Getting to the climb is a big undertaking. From the top of Bare Rock, locate the rap-access anchors for the Easter Rising Face (about 50m right (looking out) of the Supernaut top anchor, tucked away among some scraggly bushes near the cliff edge (ignore another set of anchors in the open between the Supernaut anchors and the Easter Rising anchors - these are the top-out anchors for Master of Puppets)).

Fix a 60m rope, rap down and redirect the rap-rope off a single bolt (on McDonagh face), then rap down and right (looking in) aiming for a double U-bolt belay about 10m right of the direct rap line. Redirect the rap-rope again off these anchors, and rap down the overhanging headwall (clip into bolts on the way down, as the line is very steep, and diagonal) to the belay on the lip of the Great Roof. A 60m rope JUST reaches (tie a knot in the end).

Climb the Diagonal crack past 5 bolts to the anchors. Then Jumaar 40m back to the top.

FA: Chris Coppard

Sportiva 18m, 5
East Fingal Valley Bare Rock Supernaut Face
25 Peppa Pig

Starts 7m left of Into the Void. Ramble up the slab. Then do a techo sequence of moves to get into the roof. Powerful moves through this and the corner above. Traverse left and up to the chains of Master of Puppets.

FA: Garry Phillips, 2013

Sportiva 20m
25 Mr Potato

Your friend and mine. Starts up Peppa Pig but at the top of the corner head up and right past 3 BR.

FA: Garry Phillips, 2014

Sportiva 18m
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