Fear Wall Principalmente Arrampicata trad 11 vie in falesia

A strong and stout line. A propa trad line with some spice.

It has its own double U bolt anchors at the top, back up and left about 5m (facing out) from the rap anchors of Two Boys One Skyhook. It is possible to rap down the line using these.

Pitch 4 (crux) suffers from bad runoff and can be sandy after rain which is shame as its stellar and tricky climbing. A quick brush on the rap down will help for a more enjoyable time.

On the FA the first two pitches were run together. But climbing as two separate pitches as per the topo is better.

Be advised that Pitch 2 has some average rock and is runout. It has a 6-8 m grade 17 runout after the crux (gr 20 and well protected) getting up to the cave. It has initial good trad gear for the crux but traverses left through some brief crozzley rock getting to the cave. The climbing is easy but climb smart and gentle. Ultimately a bolt may be added here.

p1 - 17 p2 - 20 p3 - 18/19 p4 - 22 p5 - 20

Named after the abundant Lambertia Formosa shrub, otherwise known as the Mountain Devil, which is common on the Illawarra Escarpment.

The species name of Formosa also comes from the latin word for beautiful, after the striking red flowers. The Mountain Devil also has a horned, hard spikey seed resembling a Devil.

This route reflects the striking, beautiful, yet hardened nature of it's namesake.

Pitch 1 (crux) - grade 25, is an intricate, steep and technical line up impeccable rock. Don't be put off by the appearance of the rock ! Its super solid impeccable quartzy rock.

Single rack, Nuts are optional, plus additional 0.2 and 0.3 cams (at least doubles but there are options for more), 2 x #1 and 2 x #2 cams and 1 x #4 . 1 U bolt mid-way.

Start up the major crack near the bolted belay at the start of Pitch 3 of Two Boys One Skyhook.

After about 6m venture right onto the wall on super solid rock past many breaks to reach the major break below a high under-cling flake in a shallow corner. Bold but safe moves to gain great gear and rest.

Clip the bolt and head up steepening wall. Pumpy sustained climbing up the wall and finger crack to the right side of the honeycomb cave.

Place a crucial 0.5 AND/OR 0.75 cam in the slot at the top left end of the roof.

Exit the cave from the right up and right onto the headwall, then head back left above your gear. Continue up the wall past chicken heads, threads and large cams - # 4 useful.

Tricky exit to reach the base of the large ledge. Save a #2 and/or #3 for breaks. Use the fixed rope over left to haul up over the loose ledge to double bolt anchor.

Pitch 2 - grade 24, follows an improbable line through the steepest, most overhanging and unlikely headwall on this main section of the crag.

The rock is different and somewhat sandy. While not quite as high quality as pitch 1, 75 m of free hanging exposure and spaced but bomber gear ensures it has its own merits.

Standard rack plus additional 0.2 and 0.3 cams and #4.

Tricky moves up the steep flake right of the belay.

Traverse right under roof #4 and up to U bolt.

Pysch up and launch around roof with strenuous and hard moves between breaks and great gear with a slightly runout but fantastic-protected finish.

The first route established on the wall. Worth it for the length and the view! This is a fully bolted sport route but there is a significant amount of dirt and loose rock in some sections - be careful. Not suitable as a first multi pitch route. Take a scrubbing brush or paintbrush to clean holds. After you land from the abseil, walk north along the cliff about 30 m until you come to a fallen tree at the base of the wall. That's where it starts.

1. 25m 18 Stand on the tree to get past the choss. Be careful clipping the third bolt. Go up and around the arete, then up onto a ledge (lots of dirt). Climb up the flake to a DBB.

2. 10m Not really a pitch. Walk left along "sketch ledge" until you reach a DBB. Be careful and rope up if you're uncertain of safety.

3. 25m 17 The best pitch! Up and then traverse left then up to a nice ledge. DBB.

4. 15m 18 Traverse out along the break and then go up to a small belay ledge DBB. Be prepared for dirt on the last few holds.

5. 15m 18 Up through the dirty dihedral (it's ok to pull on the tree), then traverse right on some sketchy rock, up to a DBB.

6. 15m 20 Mantle, then head left along the ledge. Climb up the face to the arete, then execute one last tricky mantle and you're done! DBB.

This line goes all free (no fixed rope shenanigans) and might be the best one on the wall. It is a good alternative finish to Storms at Sea if you find you've bitten off more than you can chew.

Recommended rack (in addition to anchor, belay and rescue gear): ten quickdraws, five bolt hangers and a set of camalots/friends from 0.5 to 4, with doubles of 1 and 2. No nuts needed unless you forget to bring hangers.

1. 25m (18) As for Storms at Sea and Two Boys One Skyhook

2. 25m (21) As for Storms at Sea

3. 15m (18) Head upwards into the corner as for Storms at Sea, but about half way up the crack, step left to reach a carrot. Continue up and left, clip another carrot and then reach a double carrot belay

4. 20m (16) A tricky move to leave the belay, then continue left into the choss cave. The carrot before you step past the green bush into the cave is the last piece of protection, so don't slip or fall after that. Walk carefully to the other end of the cave to reach a double ring bolt belay.

5. 15m (20) As for the last pitch of "Two Boys One Skyhook"

Harder, scarier and simply much better than "Two Boys One Skyhook". Enjoy challenging moves, good gear, fearful exposure and glorious ocean views on this excellent route. This was the original vision for this wall first conceived back in 2016. Back then it seemed too hard, but with time all things are possible.

Recommended rack (in addition to anchor, belay and rescue gear): ten quickdraws, five bolt hangers and a set of camalots/friends from 0.3 to 4, with doubles of 0.5, 1 and 2. No nuts needed.

1. 20m (18) As for "Two Boys One Skyhook" but continue past the belay to another pair of rings on the orange face above and to the right.

2. 20m (21) Clip the carrot and then execute a tricky move (crux) to get up onto the face. Do your second a favour and put in a cam (and leave it in) so they don't have to do the crux without swing-prevention protection. Clip a carrot and step delicately left, then climb upwards (the #4 is useful here). Mantle into the choss break then step left, clip a carrot, then, from the arete, reach up and clip another. Step right onto the orange face again and then continue up to the small belay ledge via a tricky hand traverse.

3. 15m (19) Head upwards through some greenery and into the corner crack. Go up the crack and step right at the top to follow the crack around the edge of the "Sword of Damocles" block, and, with great relief, gain the double bolt belay.

4. 10m (17) Step left, then climb up some suspect rock onto a ledge under an overhang. Don't belay from the first set of double rings, but instead step left a few metres to belay at another set of double rings.

5. 15m (17) A tricky move to leave the belay ledge, then clip a ring bolt and climb up to the crack. Put a last piece in nice and high, then pull yourself over the edge then scramble to the top. Belay off carrots.