Vie in West Face

The off-width right of Grim Death. The very 1st (or last) climb of the West Face (at the end closest to the South Face. ie. closest to the descent track).

BOULDER PROBLEM. Follows the thin crack in the first section of the West Face. Follow the crack till it runs out then layback to glory! (don't pike right).

Good corner 2 metres left of Grim Death.

Dyno - grab jug rail at head height, smear feet and launch for hueco, top out. Maybe a bit harder for people under 6ft. Essentially climbs the wall left of GD without using the obvious holds on the routes either side.

Initialled. Climb the flake.

An improbable overhanging red wall. No protection.

Top rope problem

"A streno jug haul roof/arete/wall climb". Initialled. Start at Dark Side Of The Turkey and traverse right on finger jugs to the lip of the roof. Up the wall past carrot.

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth "A brilliant climb. Devious and awkward. It turned me into a newt - but I got better again" - Ant Prehn. Up the wall at initials.

As for DSOTT then veer left.

Face left of DSOTT.

Corner left of DSOTT.

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth Desperate! Climb the scooping wall right of Extra Terrestrial Turkey 2 carrots.

* An excellent problem on good rock. A good start makes the climb. Over roof (clip ringbolt), up wall (passing 2nd ringbolt) to top. Toprope rings

A snappy little bit of ball tearing work. Start right of tree at undercut wall. Undercling start then up wall to the top.

Off-width and crack left of TT.

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth The middle of the wall 5m right of Pig. Bulgy start, then shoot for mother bucket at. Up to top.

Corner left of TT.

Start just right of Pig, initialled.

[Feb 2012 - steel loweroffs added] The undercut arete 2m right of 'Turkeys Take Off'. Up to ringbolt, pull over onto arete, up easily reaching left up arete to clip ring on Turkeys Take Off. Continue straight up to top reaching left to clip bolt above roof on Turkeys Take Off. Then on to Lower offs

[Feb 2012 - added steel lower offs] "This is a gem of a roof climb". Start at the TT initials. Up overhung wall to clip ringbolt, up under roof, move right (ringbolt) until jugs over roof can be reached. Swing out left ... remembering to clip 3rd ring over lip as you go and mantle over top arete and up.

As for TTO but left out the roof and up.

As for TTO but left out of the roof, then back right and up.

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth . Start 2m left of TT. Follow the holds out roof and grovel over lip. Used to have a peg in the crack which has since rusted away and fallen out.

Marked with initials. The flake, a roof and to top.

On the wall immediately to the right of The Arete By The Left Hand Side. Very thin up wall to the top.

Arete between Intrepid and Golden Years. Very good boulder problem.

The short curving crack... ewwww

Originally done as two pitches.

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth Boulder problem or toprope. A fingery short wall without using left edge of wall (side of offwidth). Up the middle of the wall for 4m and avoid last move.

The off-width...

Initialled. Up right to join BSOTB.

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth "A line of mighty power making all who walk beneath it cringe in eternal brooding fear" - Hill

Ooookay, yeah, its not a bad problem. Up compact wall to horizontal break, 2 small cam placements in horizontal, then layback off right hand using the right as an undercling. Kick left foot up into the little pocket , crank over left hand, reach for the small hold with the right high above your head. Chalk up left hand, crank off right hand, bring up right foot and reach for buckets at the top!

[April 2012 - new steel ringbolts all the way] An excellent short route. Start beneath the eroded pocket , layback and get your feet up high and right. Kneebar into the pocket and get that righthand up to the jug. Clip the 1st RB and head left around the arete and up you go.

Would be a good wall climb if not for the big tree in the way. Sling the tree and climb the jugs on the left arete...or just climb the tree!

A piss easy chimney. It doesn't seem very popular! Up the chimney... Every man and his dog

A totally contrived route. Up slab left of PEC without using chimney.

[New - April 2012] Gaston start, to layback, up horizontal flakes , pull out fingernails to reach the major ledge. Up sheeding sandstone bulge, find that high pull-up bar - but careful on that last 'exposed' move to the Loweroffs platform ! A common solo problem cleaned up with some useful bolts.

Start on slabby wall as for Brigetta6. Up to cam#1 pocket on left, step right and straight up wall (past fixed bracket) to horizontal break. Climb past horizontal using arete on left (don't grovel up the crack!). Up to LO's.

[2012 Oct - LO's added]

Climb up leftward ramp past #1 cam pocket to easy wall. Straight up wall past bolts to arete. Straight up arete to LO bolts.

[2012 Oct - LO & additional RB's] The middle of the wall between Hernia and Brigetta6 but starting down low, right of Hernia. Pull over past overhang ring onto slab and continue straight up wall to the top.

Once a classic death route. Start 3m down left of Brigetta under the overhang. Battle up the juggy overhang (ringbolt), step up to overhang wall (ringbolt) and climb up to lip. Rightward on good holds to ramp. Up to double rings on your left.

Left of Hernia, up and out cave left.

Right of GTW, the easiest line up.

A popular incut slab. It is not recommended that you lead this route if only climbing grade 11, however do not top-rope directly through the anchor bolts. These anchors are getting noticeably worn through, as a result of such improper top-rope setups.

Start lower down, pull onto the wall and towards the right side of the face. Up the eroded front-face arete to the 1st bolt. On the last move to the LO's look for the right-hand under bolder hold.

Boulder problem or toprope. Start 2m around left from Gum Tree Wall on the left side of the arete. Up the overhanging arete making sure you do not use any holds that are on the right hand face of the arete until you reach the horizontal break at the top.

Worthless. The chimney

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth Natural protection. Good but too short. The finger jam flake and wall.

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth This boulder problem goes straight up the wall 21BP between Zatidee and Crust For Crust without using a hold in either. If the start is easy then you're cheating and using holds that aren't allowed!

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth An old crack climb. Natural protection. Up the cracks past the old bolt marks.

Natural and bolt protection. Run-out and slightly contrived but excellent. Small freind or nut to start. Onto thin wall and clip fixed bracket. Up the middle of (without pulling left onto the arete for a rest!). A #2 cam placement appears as it eases. Up the easy ground (bolt) to pull over final easy overhang to toprope/belay bolts. Can use Fingers ring anchors to top rope

[Dec. 2011 - ring bolt lower offs added] Run-out and slightly contrived but excellent. Tricky start onto thin wall and clip. Up the middle of (without pulling left onto the arete for a rest!). Up the easy ground (bolt) to pull over final easy overhang to lower offs.

[Dec 2012 - replace carrots with steel ring bolts. Use 'Short Legs' for lower off] The arete left of 'Fingers'. Starting at initials, reach up and pull up overhanging start to bolt. Up the arete past another bolt to easy ground. Continue as for fingers to the top.

[Dec 2012 - new steel RB's and lower off] Very Popular . An old classic. Tough linear start , or approach from the left traversing across the ledge. Up recessed edge, pull up right at bulge, then straight up wall to top overhang and over the top.

[Dec 2012 - new bolt added before roof ] Fine climbing up an excellent wall. Up the arete and wall left of Short Legs and overhang passing 3 ring bolts to belay bolts at top.

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth V-groove left of 'Crawdad'

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth The climb starts at the same place as Nursery, but you go straight up the crack. It is all naturally protected.

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth A trad route for beginners on their first climb. Start at the crack in the middle of the wall then pull 1m right and up the jugs. Step back left for the final crack, or go direct the whole way (a tad harder).

[Dec. 2011 - all new steel ring bolts & lower offs]

Up the wall without deviation to the side (the middle of the wall between 'Iria' and 'Nursery') - a couple of fine moves . Pull onto wall using 3 finger pocket and clip the 1st ring, then a deadpoint to reach a nice flake. Move slightly left for toe hold and reach up for the edge, clipping 2nd ring. Up to ledge, clip bolt on very short block and reach up to the ring belay.

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth Another old trad route. Natural protection. Up the corner to ledge (ususally covered in leaves, wet sand and other crud), short corner to top

A classic wall and roof climb. Start in middle of wall left of corner. Up middle of blank looking wall. At first bolt, don't use big undercling on left. Reach up high to flake under roof ( crux ), up over bulges past rings to double ring belay.

climb left using the arete - 'mouth piece' shaped chunk of rock included

Starts as for Jacky, not very popular. Up the short arete to crack. Using side of crack climb climb up slightly right to corner in roof. Climb past old peg up to roof. Contort around roof and grovel up!

Natural protection. A good route, start at 'J'. Up shorte arete to crack in lip of roof that comes across from Goober Grease. Up the crack then follow some bulges to exit.

Pull up to the undercling slot in the roof then core your way left 2m to the lip. Struggle to clip the 3rd bolt then crank over the lip and up to the 2 rings passing alot of moss as you go!

Start: Start to the left of 'One Blank Wall' under the roof.

A good climb for tearing your fingernails off and radical cranking' - Hill. Start at initial. DO NOT USE TREE BEHIND YOU!. Bouldery start on thin sharp holds to launch (fixed bracket) and straight up past 2nd bracket onto arete. Final easy moves up EOOTBWOKS past bolt to the top.

Starts 1m right of corner 'Bills Folly'. (Small 'friend' under the large flake to protect the 1st move or go up crack and reach across to clip 1st bolt). Pull onto the wall using the large flake. Straight up wall on small holds passing 2nd bolt to small ledge (medium cam or traverse to new arete bolt) Climb on right at arete (reach right over the edge of the arete to clip EOOTBWOKS bolt as you go to the top).

[Mar 2012 - all new RB's and they have been repositioned] Start bridging up 'Bills Folly' crack to clip 1st bolt on 'Malignant Falcon' , then up and traverse across wall/ledge to arete. Up arete past bolt to top. Caution: large block midway up arete moves , but its ok, its in solid.

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth The right hand corner crack. Natural protection. Popular even though it has a wide crack. The corner, step left and over last wide crack to top.

Start as for Hills Hardmen. Up the slab and continue up ramp to the right of the bolt to horizontal, traverse back left into line at tree. Straight up as for HH over top bulge to belay.

Natural and bolt protection. Take 2 brackets and 'freinds'. One hard move near the 1st bolt. The rest is around 17. Up the middle of the easy slab and reach left to clip 1st bolt. Place your feet and hands all on the same hold then crank for the next hold. Easy up to top bulge then bolt protects good top section. Toprope bolts over the top.

[March 2012 - ring bolt lower offs and 4 additional RB added to this route] The West Face test piece for up and coming bumblies. Start just right of 'Bills Folly Chimney'. The short crack to clip 1st ring, thin technical moves, then easy doddle section. Clip ring above roof then crank to glory (crux) onto top wall. 2 Ring bolt loweroffs , 2m above roof.

A low traverse of the west face starting in the corner and finishing on the block right of Intrepid. You can climb just above the ledge between Zatidee and Gumtree Wall but its nicer just to walk this bit. Gets a little high off the ground in places, due mostly to the massive amount of soil erosion that's taken place in the last 40 years.

Natural protection. The corner flake crack leading to a dark chimney.

'A mind snapper wall climb' - Hill. Climb the wall just left of the corner (Bills Folly Chimney) to horizontals (bolt) and reach high for hidden hold. One move left and up past 2nd bolt to exit onto ledge. From here continue up easy wall above or lower off.

"A good traverse across a pocketed horizontal weakness". Up wall left of corner as for Book Him Danno Murder One to horizontals (bolt) and keep traversing left to the arete past 2nd bolt. Layback up arete, (bolt) to ledge. From here continue up juggy arete to top or lower off.

Bouldery, mind pumping finger work up an undercut arete. Start just right of Stratum. Traverse across the face (bolt) to undercut arete and up to ledge and bollard. Easily up or rap off

In the corner marked 'S'. Natural protection. Up groove, around roof to the right, then up to the top.

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Directional ring 3meters lower than anchor on opposing wall.Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth Natural protection. Start 2 meters right of Juggy Crack. Up the wall to the top.

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Directional ring 3meters lower than anchor on opposing wall.Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth The corner crack marked JC. Up the crack...ahhh thats what number 11 hexes are

[Mar 2012 pre-roof Lower Offs and 4 ring bolts added]

As for CH, but stop directly below the roof and use the mid under roof lower offs.

[2011 MAR - LOs and 5 new ring bolts added] 'An absolute ripper of a chossy roof'. Very exposed - relatively easy for such a large roof. Start 2m left of 'Juggy Crack'. 13 meters up the wall to the big roof. Reach around left of the nose to clip to edge hidden ringbolt, then crank out over the roof on buckets. Lower offs on right side of roof top.

Up the easy wall (bolt) to ledge beneath roof. Reach out and clip ringbolt, grovel out roof and mantle on rounds past ringbolt to the top.

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth Start as for My Red Slug. Natural pro. Leftward up wall to top.

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth Another one of those roof climbs that looks like it could fall on you! Start in the corner at the righthand side under the large roof (Right of Putain De Pudding).Up the Short corner past bolt to roof, lean out on jugs up over to clip bolt on left. Swing leftward over lip and on up left to follow pedestal (bolt) to top.

Closed Project. Start as for PP up and into the roof. Traverse left and pull lip and link into putain . If ya wanna have a go just ask

The original. Aid bolts through the blank roof then up.

Initialled. Traverse into the corner and then the whole horizontal break left.

According to the old guide book this could be the hardest route on the West face. The middle of the roof protected by ringbolts, left of the line of rusty bolts placed by Bill James years ago and as an aid route. Follow the break right past the rings to gastone in roof.

Punch it out past ring to pockets on the lip. Crank to crimper around lip following flake. Finish at break (No DRB anchor), or proceed through Jungle Of Death! WARNING - there is no DRB anchor on this route

As for Pams Pussy, continues the horizontal jamb crack all the way out right to meet into the top of 'Putain de Puddin'.

The arete just right of the start of 'Pams Pussy'. Hand traverse out right to step on the large casuarina to clip the 1st ringbolt. (now gone) Climb the arete past two more rings to the top. Double ringbolt belay.

Natural protection. Hand traverse the jamb crack (cams) out right (and dont step on the bloody tree!) When 2 meters past the arete clip the bolt and reach for the high jug then up the wall to the ledge. Clip bolt and finish direct over bulge onto desperate slab.

Natural pro. Up the crack to the ledge, then traverse off right until you can get up to the top. Could be top-roped with the Serenity top rings.

CAUTION !! Permanent bees nest in small cave halfway up the route. Makes it hard to do any of the routes on this wall.

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth A harder better version than the original. Start 2 meters left of Quadrille corner. Bouldery moves to start then straight up vague arete to ledge, continue up the easy ground to the top.

Three carrot anchor in small cave near the top.

14m Boulder problem. The arete left of HFBI.

Start at ground level in the crack to the right of bulgy slab. Crank through the roof on solid jugs and then the chossy chimney to the top. There are carrots on top ~3m to the left. Big cams advised.

Would like to add a bolt near the top left of crack and anchors on top.

Tough start then up the juggy steep wall on incut ironstone holds/flakes. Slight incline from the vertical in the mid-half of the climb. 3 rings to double ring belay or up to the top and walk off.

The wall right of Outside Space without using the crack to start. Follow right of the ringbolts to double ring belay. Stay off the jugs/crack to the left . If you didn't reach high up at the 2nd ring-bolt or lay-back on the crimp, then you've gone around the crux!