Vie in Wollongong

Up blank looking face then into corner then up headwall. Great rock and climbing.

Straight up the arete.

Up wall and then up slab to anchors.

Start 3m left of the chimney (Gates Out) at the fixed hangers. Straight up to a great dyno. Drift up and left to the arete to finish.

Up the chimney which has great climbing outside the chimney or grovel deep into the chasm like the first ascentionist did.

With a nod to araps, this glorified squeeze test was first conducted in the modern era during the dark depths of the covid pandemic lockdown. Work your way through the chasm behind Kegs on Legs and get rebirthed into the paradise of Coaltrain.

Horizontal cracks then layback to glory.

Up left side of wall

Righthand side of wall.

Boulder out the roof of the cave and finish up nails slab.

Traverse right on the lip of the cave to the arete then straight up to anchors.

Powerful layback moves to start. Small cams in the roof corner and extend with slings. Traverse under roof where you could place a #5. Tricky moves to turn the lip and awesome crack climbing to the loweroffs. Can clean while being lowered or get someone to second.

Still awaiting a second ascent.

Stick clip bolt, then watch a Wide-boyz montage for inspiration. Pull funky moves (crux), to move up to roof. Make your way to the corner for a rest then make your way up lovely thin headwall crack (20) to lower-offs.

Bolted by the famous Rod Young. The Willson brother's battled it out for the first ascent.

Pull through the finger intensive crux boulder problem with technical heel hooks to rest. Easier but delicate climbing up the right side of the corner to the anchors.

Rod project 2

Start at series of flakes and cracks, up and left to the ledge the up arete to top.

Start underneath small cave, traverse left 2m, big move straight up then trend right to the cave (good rest) and straight up to anchors to straight up.

Follow the thin crack system up to a knee bar and take in the view. Proceed to a delicate final crux before the anchor.

After multiple attempts on this, Hunter Cole had a crack and after a courtesy take at the first bolt proceeded to flash the route. I let him name the route as it was only fair.

The route is still awaiting a trad ascent.

Up the orange arete.

Start 2m right of Captain Nemo arete on the great orange rock. Technical and varied. Thin start, move right to closed corner . Up until easier to the anchors.

Up the seam to the anchors

Follow the corner crack up and then move left onto the face straight up to the lower offs.

Stuck clip bolt and traverse in from the right on edges. Make your way up the arete. Rest in cave and tickle your way up the finger crack to lower offs.

Up the seam to jugs and the cave then blast up the awesome headwall.

The narrow corner. Up corner, trend up right steeply to ledge then around the roof and head left to the anchors.

Head up the corner to the top of the block then up the vague arete to the anchors

Up the orange wall to the roof, out the roof and up headwall to anchors.

Straight up the crack to Lower-offs

Up the crack and up through the suprisingly solid honeycomb rock to anchors at the top of the wall. A great photo op route.

Start at the left hand end of the wall, up to the cave, traverse right at the overlap then straight up.

Up the corner then into the cave briefly until you can pull round onto the slab then up.

The right hand route up the bulgy red buttress though unlikely territory to an exposed upper wall to anchors. Scramble up 5m through ferns to a ledge and belay off first bolt. Head up just left of corner and trend a bit left above through cavey bit.

Straight up the awesome looking red buttress.

Traverse into arete and up.

Up through roof trend right then straight up to crack. Bolt at the base of the crack will be removed, there's good gear.

Two good pitches, first has better rock, second has better position. Mix of rings and gear. Not ideal if 16 is your limit or you're new to placing gear. Good warm up to some of the other mixed routes here.

Double ring bolt anchor. 1st accent was rope solo. Anyone welcome to bolt it

Double ring bolt anchor. 1st accent done on rope solo. Feel free to bolt it IYL

#This has been rebolted. The major bolted arete line directly below the lookout and on the left side of the orange wall (when facing the cliff). There are 4 closely spaced ringbolts at the top of this (highline anchors). Rap into hanging belay shared with Flying Bushwalker (two RBs). Be careful getting off the belay and also above the undercut roof on the upper third - a fall from either spot could be a bit grim. Climb the arete or corner to join the original start at two chopped bolts, then a short face that turns into arete then finish out left up exposed sandy face. Official grade, route name and first ascent details all unknown. At least 10 bolts on this route.

A much gawked at feature from the train line below. This climbs the center of the major orange wall. First five bolts is technical reachy face climbing, then left and up short corner and major flake feature. The rock quality deteriorates in the top half. There are double U-bolts at the top of the cliff - rap from these (extend them with slings if you want to pull your rope down) to double U-bolt hanging belay about 5m above the jungle. You will need to clip into a couple of bolts on the way down to stay connected to the wall. The route is protected by bomber new U-bolts, unlike other routes on this wall!

#This has been fully rebolted

A nice looking orange face with at least two stainless carrots on right side of orange wall. Finishes up small left facing corner. This route starts on the ground in the jungle. There are two new u-bolts at the top. - it was pre-inspected and top-roped prior to first ascent.

Nice, delicate and slabby. Start from ledge in overhung corner, careful of loose stuff on the ledge then up the beautiful compact wall. Join "Car crash" for the last 2 bolts.

Quality trad. Will probably only be repeated by most climbers on top-rope. Pity, as the gear is bomber. Rap from far northern ringbolts (2m right of small cave with FHs) to double ring belay on wall above undercut ledge (and feet on huge death block). Up splitter crack, which opens and closes for a few metres then right onto slab. Cams in pockets for a few metres then through steep section (seeps after rain) and final hard move up seam crack. Hand traverse left a few moves to mantle up to ledge. Leave a sling or rap rope on the lip of the ledge as a runner when you rap down.

One of the best here - well bolted, great rock. Rap in from two FHs in back of small cave, 5m right of Humidify to hanging belay above chossy undercut ledge. Climb slightly right on horizontals, then reachy move to crimpy 'slab'. Up right side of arete on great scoops then weird mantle up left then up face above. Finish left of perched boulder.

Lovely technical arete on top quality orange rock. 20m further along the ledge from rap anchors above Busted is another set of rap anchors set on a horizontal ledge. Rap down keeping rope to the north of the arete. Belay on small ledge. Climb arete, finishing out left of summit block.

Sweet arete, starting on comfy ledge and crux right at the very top. Rap in from two horizontally placed Ubolts placed at chest level on small arete, about 5m past the big gymea lilly.

The top half of this pitch is great, but the lower section is reachy and chossy (but well protected). Walk 10m north of Captain Cheese anchors to a second set of anchors set on small vertical wall on narrow ledge. Rap 40m down off these to anchor on arete right of corner with tiny ledge on the right about 10m above the ground - double bolt belay. Climb left into corner for a move, step left onto short arete, through reachy rooflet and then left across exposed face of flakes under monster roof to bolt belay at juggy section. Finish as for pitch 2 of Tree Tornado.

Pretty improbable for the grade, traversing under and out some massive roofs. Take plenty of long draws and a few slings to keep the rope-drag under control. The route starts at same belay shared with Captain Cheese and shared the first few bolts with that route. Rap down the Captain Cheese corner to the semi-hanging belay in sandy white scoop to the right of the arete. Start by traversing right along tricky wall to reach major corner with fern. Now launch up and right onto white juggy overhung face trending right to stance in corner under huge roof. Swing out right across juggy break to lip of roof, then finish up excellent thin slab and face and flake above. Double UB belay at op, but it's probably better to rig rope off rap bolts in boulder above Captain Cheese. At least 12 bolts on this route in total. It can be split into two pitches.

Steep corner crack on trad with bolted belays. Very airy! Both pitches can be combined into one mega pitch if you bring enough trad. To descend fix rap rope to double u-bolts in large boulder on top of cliff. Rap down the corner (which is what you are climbing up). At base of corner keep rapping down overhung arete to semi-hanging belay in white sandy scoop (shared pitch 2 belay with Titanical). It is also possible to extend top rap anchor with long slings and rap in on doubled ropes and pull them afterwards for mega commitment factor.

1. 13m (20) Traverse directly right from belay past u-bolt to overhung corner crack (u-bolt). Climb the very overhung right side of corner on bubbly pockets, placing medium/large cams in horizontals. When a break finally appears on the left wall step over to it and traverse across to double u-bolt hanging belay on arete (shared anchor with Titanical).

2. 20m (17) Very exposed! Straight up to roof and corner crack, that starts wide and thins quickly. Stem up this with occasional ledges to top. This pitch is very well protected on trad - take cams from #4 to #0.25 thin finger size. Belay well back on double u-bolts in boulder.

Mega overhung arete that can be led as one giant pitch or three little pitches with semi-hanging belays. Best way is to link the first two pitches into one pitch. The route is all bolts. Fix rope and rap in down Captain Cheese off double u-bolts on boulder at top of cliff. Rap down all the way to the base of the killer arete and double u-bolt hanging belay with teeny tiny footledge ledge (you may need to clip a few bolts on the way down to stay connected to the wall - it's overhung!)

1. 12m (23) Superb technical arete on pockets. Start on right side, then switch to left side, then finish right side. Finish in white sandy scoop - semi-hanging belay off double u-bolts.

2. 10m (22) Swing left onto 'tufa' and undercut arete (a bit chossy) then up rad square arete feature to semi-hanging belay off double u-bolts.

3. 20m (22) Continue up the exposed arete to top. This pitch is a bit contrived with the corner just to the right in a few spots. The last bolt is a tough and scary clip! (maybe put a sling on it when you rap in)

Right-trending face route up a series of flakes. Rap down south side of Titanical arete from u-bolts in boulder. Kick yourself down so you stay connected to the overhung wall until you can reach one of the bolts on this route and can clip in. Rap down and left to tiny vegetated ledge and giant horizontal u-bolt belay. Traverse right from belay and up mini arete to break. Crimp up then delicate traverse right across flakes to finishes at hanging bolt belay at end of pitch 1 of the Captain Cheese. Finish as for Captain Cheese or Titanical pitch 3.

Start just left of the Bow Wave belay station. Climb the fridge-like arete then move past rooflet (big undercling) over the lip and up, staying about 3m left of the Titanical arete.

Start either as per Iceburg or on the left (makes it an independent line). Straight up the middle of the wall! Great climb.

Rap from Titanical rap station over the southern cliff, use access rungs to move up past big (wet) boulder and onto ledge, you will find a 2 ring bolt belay for this route, which starts left of the belay up an obvious orange flake. Take care to place a decent purple camalot (0.5) before the first crimpy moves (about 5m off the deck). The rest of the gear is bomber, slightly spaced. Double ring bolt to lower off.

Double bolt belay. Sustained edges forming a cool sequence start this route until you reach a ledge, move right along this to mantle and then up. Theres a bit of a weird bit (bolt #5) where you can go left or right to get to the upper turret, and a hands free ledge. Move left to finish on the lower offs on the right side of the turret.

Project moving left from Gigatonne after the 4th bolt (bit contrived to stay on the gold streak)

Bolt belay left of Gigatonne. Good gear up wonderful crack to start, then make move right and go up with more good cams. Stay right of vegetated ledge and keep going up until a good ledge where a lower off was considered (22 to here). Instead clip a bolt to your right and keep going up the left side of the turret to the anchor (23).

Classic! Start from the ground OR from the ledge (DBB) depending on dampness. If from the ground, start via tree to get onto the wall to the right of the first bolt, traverse in to the arete and then up to ledge. Past huge layback flake to the awesome arete above. From anchor there is now a second pitch, grade 15 or so, pass 3 bolts to get to the top of the cliff and another DBB.

Start on the ground to the right of Da Vinci. If damp, start from ledge on Da Vinci and traverse in. Technical crux on slab section then up to steeper orange wall. Sustained, amazing wall.

Direct finish to Coolcliff, finishing at the anchor shared with the top pitch of Da Vinci. At the upper crux, Coolcliff original line goes right via the bomber hand crack. This direct finish goes left, avoiding the crack via some balancy moves on the streaked orange rock then up to the anchor shared with Da Vinci. Bit harder than the original. *

Start at ledge above Da Vinci (fixed line to access from below). Up slab to crux (left sidepull to break) at start of steepness. Avoid going left into Coolcliff. Very good! Finish as per Coolcliff.

Brilliant rock on the lower wall. The slopey break above the crack can sometimes be damp and slippery, best to accept this as part of the crux..! Access by rapping down Coolcliff and walking around to find access rung to ledge. Start from belay on the left via fixed line over bushy gap (check fixed line is still ok) or do alternate start and traverse into the line (a bit harder than the original start).

Start as per Tidal Flexing and join in to Jupiter. Maybe a bit harder and an ounce less classic than the proper start, still does some unique moves on great rock.

Nice shorter route that finishes abruptly at DBB.

Shorter route to the left of Jupiter

Start from the ground, bouldery to ramp then head left to scoopy arete. Keep heading up to balance moves on the primo arete.

Start as per Displacment.. you need to go left to the arete to access the break, then trav back right into the route with thin cruxy moves around the middle of the wall.

From the bottom of the abseil head north for 10m to find the 1st pitch. A unique climb in a great position. Don't rap down the route or you'll end up in no-mans land.

1. 10m (19) Pull up off the ground to a tricky move then straight up to the ledge with double UB belay.

2. 25m (21) Drop down off the ledge and traverse right then follow the bolts delicately up the slab to a tricky move around the arete into the hanging corner then up. Head diagonally right up the wall to the big cave with a double UB belay.

3. 25m (19) From the belay look north and you'll spot the first bolt of the last pitch. Clip this then step out over the void, traverse right slightly then head straight up the featured wall to the top. Double UB belay slightly back from the cliff edge. Note: Its extremely hard to communicate from the belay to the top of this pitch. Make sure you have a way to communicate with each other either by phone, walkie-talkies or the rope.

A fun route with some good exposure and good photo opportunities. Ring bolts. Take about 10 draws.

1. 16m (14) Climb up to the set of double rings.

2. 20m (16) Traverse left to the airy arete and up to double rings on the ledge on the left of the cave (not the ones 2m further left). Don't clip the brown bolts halfway along the traverse, they belong to Humpback Sushi Roll.

3. 14m (12) Up and R around the arete onto the face. There are double rings at the top for belaying.

Abseil in off double rings about 5m north of the finish of Whale of a Time. You will arrive at a double ring belay stance at the bottom of the face. Climb directly up, cutting through Whale of a Time's 2nd pitch to top out. Two of the bolts have been painted brown to avoid confusion with Whale of a Time. This route has significant runouts and you may wish to toprope rather than lead it.

Start as for Whale Watchers and Whale of a Time. At the ledge, take the left line and continue up to cut through the Whale of a Time traverse and then to the top. This route has significant runouts and you may wish to toprope rather than lead it.

Start as for Whale of a Time but continue upwards, trending slightly right, all the way to the top. Put a long draw on the 4th bolt down from the Whale of a Time double bolt belay as you rap in (hard to clip and a bit runout, maybe some holds have fallen off).

Nice climbing up airy arete right of the top of Whale Watchers. Rap down from Whale Watchers anchor, at 10m step into corner and right around arete to double bolt anchor. Or fix a rope from the next anchors (2 fixed hangers) up slightly and and 4m to the right (facing the cliff). Up layback arete to single U loweroff or mantel to top-belay on those 2 fixed hangers on block.

Start and first bolt as for Skysaw, then right and up to either single bolt loweroff, or top out to 2 bolt belay (as for Skysaw)

A few funky sections leading to an easy crack. Crack system right of Skysaw. Fix rope for 30m rap from anchors 5m Left of Whale of a Time rap facing out, and up the hill a bit 2 fixed hangers). Rap down and right (facing cliff) to ledge below dirty slab. Up cracks and breaks, where ledges and blocks head out left place gear in average breaks and pull boldly direct over bulge to small horizontal, past bolt (to stop you placing gear in the loose blocks on left), past another small break, then up cracks. Gear, wires, lots of small cams, plus std rack. Double ropes is better for some of the breaks, but not necessary.

20 metres further down the path, separated from Whale Watchers buy a gully. Route ascends the face 5 metres right of the gully. Abseil anchors set 2 metres from the cliff edge

Left most line of bolts. Not enough bolts and wanders around like a drunk. Traverse in along the bottom clipping an appropriate bolt or two to prevent death. Head up to the cruxy top. Clip from the knobby holds as the slopers on the top are very difficult to hold and clip from.

Line left of dead Kenny. Again nice rock but you only just get into climbing when it ends. You can clip the anchors off the holds on the top edge. Only slightly more difficult than OMG. Could be easier.

Third line in from left. Start at the flake, clip bolts on the left, and finish on the anchors on the highest part of the wall. Lovely orange rock.

The original route on this wall and one of the best. All routes are graded relative to this as a reference. The fourth line of bolts in from the left.

The fifth line of bolts in from the left. Start off the block and head towards the money shot at the end.

The second line of bolts right of SFK. Start to the left of the first bolt off the block. The usual thin mid section. The move thru the blank gap at the top is a little different to all the others.

Third line of bolts back from the corner, (including the corner line). Start from the ground. Thin moves to start heading up and left for the layaway. Cruise the middle using the classic mono-doigt. Easiest top moves on the wall. Well protected. Maybe easy for the grade.

Second line of bolts back from the corner. Very thin start on micro foot holds that become more micro by the ascent.

Line just to the left of the corner. Not as pretty as the other lines but will keep those who like the Big K snot & grovel interested. Up the corner for a few moves until you can establish on the face. A few thin moves some jugs and the anchors, what more is there?

Up the dirty crack in the corner under the rap in. Go straight up navigating the loose holds and a few bushes.

Line of bolts 1.5 m right of the corner that you rap down. Dirty and will be forever so. Better climb it while its freshly cleaned after the first ascent. Or bring a brush. Thin start that relents to easy jugging. Guess which climbs aren't 21.

Nice with 1 reachy move. Black streak 10m down and R of the rap route (Escape the Dungeon), start at belay bolt. Left and up, loweroff and anchors on right at top

Mega-route, amazing climbing in the shade! Rap in to shared belay ring wall between Anthracite and Yellowrette with the big silly rings.

Cool moves up a good line. Wall and small arete 10m down and R of abseil route down corner (Escape the Dungeon). Start from belay bolt and traverse right to line. Lower offs or easily up to topout on ledge and DBB.

AKA "Highway to the PhotoZone". A steep, exposed, and well protected lip traverse. Start from the belay bolt for Yellowrette etc.

P1 19- Traverse right past the first bolt of Yellowrette, the continue right along lip past big rung bolt, further along lip and up onto ledge, 2 U belay above ledge.

P2 15- Left 2m and up wall and left side of arete to 2 bolt belay atop Whale of a Time. I used a short draw on the third bolt to keep the rope away from some ironstone.

Epic position on the arete. Top pitch can be used to escape the halfway ledge from the other climbs.