Ascensioni in West come Attempt

with an ACL tear

Very nice route on small crimps, apart from the section from the third to fourth bolt not even that hard. I onsighted the part up to the third bolt immediately below the crux, could not climb the crux, and then climbed the upper part with one rest. On my second try, it was hotter, my skin was thinner and I just slipped off the holds, so I decided to stop trying. The first bolt is very high, though. The climbing was also not so hard, but it definitely felt a bit uncomfortable.

Super slippery, very hard for the grade, boulder problem on the beginning.

Sehr abgeschmiert

First hard move is already at the first bolt when you only have very few footholds, and the available footholds are very polished. I couldn't do the move to the good sidecling on the right. It's easier afterwards up to the third bolt. The crux is probably from third to fourth bolt, where the good footholds are too low to be useful and where the handholds are not so good either. I also skipped the move to the good hold at the fourth draw which is quite far up to the left. From then one, it gets easier, even though I skipped another move to the fifth bolt. From fifth bolt to the top, the holds are larger and more incut.

Wanted to try Number One Direkt again, but it was too wet. The right variation looked climbable but I was too pumped - it was the last route of the day just before sunset. At least I got to the bolt after the two routes separate. The last meters were a bit wet, and the jug before the chain contained a pool of water.

I skipped most of the lower (harder) part because this part of the wall was in the shade and my fingers were quite cold. Quite a few holds were also wet. The upper part, however, was in the sun and completely dry, and very nice to climb (but a bit easier, maybe 7a or 6c).