Cerca in:
| Grado | Via | Stile equipaggiamento | Falesia | Qualità | Arrampicatore | Data | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 7 |
Schrei aus Stein (Gimpel Classics)
- con
Alpinlama
16
3
collegamento Ausstieg
| 700m | Gimpel |  | Gio 22 Lug 2021 | ||||
| 8 |
★★ Kuschelrock
1
6+
35m
2
7+
20
3
6+
30
4
8
10
5
6-
20m
| 120m | Gimpel | ★★ Molto buona |  | Mar 10 Mag 2022 | |||
|
mit Direktvariante (7+)
|
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| 7- |
★★ Miss Nesselwängle
1
7-
25m
2
6+
35m
3
4
5
6
7
8
| 60m, 42 | Zwerchwand | ★ Buona |  | Lun 20 Giu 2022 | |||
|
Die teilweise überschwänglichen Bewertungen der Route kann ich nicht ganz nachvollziehen, aber einige nette Seillängen sind schon dabei. Leider sind die jedoch meist viel zu kurz. Kaum kommt man in den Kletterfluss, schon kommt der nächste Standplatz... Die 8er Stelle hat es in sich, das ging bei mir nur A0 - und auch danach bleibt es noch für einige Klettermeter deutlich schwieriger, als im Rest der Route. geniale Abseilfahrt!
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| 8 |
★★ Kuschelrock
1
6+
35
2
7
15
3
6+
15
4
6+
35
5
8
20
| 120m | Gimpel |  | Sab 8 Lug 2023 | ||||
| 8- |
★★ Via Christina
1
6+
25m
2
8-
30m
3
6+
20m
4
7
30m
5
7
25m
| 130m | Große Klara |  | Dom 7 Ago 2022 | ||||
| 8- |
★★ Mentor
- con
Franz
1
5+
40m
2
6
35m
3
7
35m
Interessante Stelle am Riss und ausdauernde Kletterei
4
8-
45m
So eine schöne Seillänge! Nach dem Abschnitt an Untergriffen kommt eine ausdauernde Stelle mit schlechten Tritten; und als ich gerade darüber hinaus war, ist mir der Fuß abgerutscht. Beim zweiten Versuch hat’s dann geklappt, anschließend noch nicht zu Ende. | 160m | Wilder Kaiser | ★★★ Classica |  | Mer 14 Giu 2023 | |||
| 8- Facile |
★★ SteinZeitLos
- con
Al
2
7+
35m
arrampicata in lead da
Al
Nicht viel einfacher als die erste SL, tendenziell unangenehmer zum Vorsteigen! Eher Einzelstellengeprägt - trotzdem lohnenswert | 70m | Große Klara | ★★ Molto buona |  | Mer 11 Ott 2023 | |||
| 7+ |
★★ Gemini
1
7-
35m
2
5-
15m
3
6+
55m
4
1
40m
5
4
55m
6
2
25m
arrampicata in lead da
Alice
7
5+
35m
8
7+
20m
9
6-
45m
10
1
30m
11
5
30m
12
5
45m
13
2
30m
14
3
40m
| 500m, 10 | Wilder Kaiser |  | Sab 22 Lug 2017 | ||||
| 7+ |
★★★ Wolke 7
- con
Franz, Dirk
1
7-
200m
2
7-
3
7+
4
7
5
7+
6
7
7
7-
| 200m | Schüsselkarspitze | ★★★ Classica |  | Dom 12 Lug 2020 | |||
|
Went in a team of 3. First pitch starts with a short but sketchy slab part. Pitch two and three are steeper and need some endurance. After that all pitches were wet and most of the harder parts were unclimbable wet (A0 fun).
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| 7+ |
★★ Knöchelbruch
1
7
35m
2
6-
25m
3
7+
30m
4
7+
30m
5
7-
20m
6
7
20m
7
3-
15m
8
7
30m
| 210m | Kleiner Säuling | ★★ Molto buona |  | Mar 23 Mag 2017 | |||
| 7 |
★★ Scotty beam me up
- con
uwe
1
7-
25m
arrampicata in lead da
uwe
2
7
30m
3
5
20m
4
6-
35m
5
5+
45m
| 160m | Martinswand | ★ Buona |  | Dom 4 Lug 2021 | |||
| 7 |
★★ Clear Water
- con
Franz
1
5+
50m
2
6
40m
3
5
25m
4
6+
30m
5
4
40m
6
7
40m
7
7-
30m
8
6+
45m
9
3
20m
| 320m | Wilder Kaiser | ★★★ Classica | | Sab 7 Ago 2021 | |||
|
Eindeutig die beste Linie an der kopfkraxe. Durchgehend gute und gut gesicherte Kletterei. Die erste Länge scheint länger nass zu sein, geht aber durch die rauen Wasserrillen trotzdem ganz gut.
Schönste Länge ist L7 mit einer abwechslungsreichen Kletterei aus Wand, Platte und Piaz. |
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| 7 |
★★ Scotty beam me up
- con
C
1
7-
25m
2
7
30m
3
5
20m
4
6-
35m
arrampicata in lead da
C
5
5+
45m
| 160m | Martinswand |  | Dom 27 Feb 2022 | ||||
| 7 |
Ludwig
1
6+
25m
2
7
30m
3
6+
20m
4
7
30m
5
7
25m
| 130m | Große Klara | | Gio 11 Ago 2022 | ||||
| 6- A0 |
★★★ Spitzenstätter
- con
Jeni
2
5+
arrampicata in lead da
Jeni
5
5+
arrampicata in lead da
Jeni
8
4
arrampicata in lead da
Jeni
| 200m | Scharnitzspitze | ★★★ Classica |  | Ven 23 Set 2022 | |||
|
Fantastic route with a single, short crux and otherwise brilliant, easy climbing. The approach, however, was horrendously painful due to the snow. None of us had been here before, so we couldn't make out where the path would be and somehow made our way up to the wall through the snow. The first pitch is bolted in a way that allows to avoid the wet crack at the start and is quite easy, so we linked it with the second pitch, which is already the crux (which is also how it is entered here). After a marvellous traverse along a big flake, the line of bolts indicates to go up straight, but I couldn't find a way to climb this for the grade. Maybe I was just too exhausted from the approach already, but after grabbing the draw and pulling myself up, I realized there's a juggy yet chossy flake two meters to the right, which allows you to gain the jugs. After this section, keep left for the belay on the big flake. The next pitch is a glorious traverse on a massive flake, followed by steep, juggy dihedral and wall climbing. Another longish pitch through left-leaning dihedrals gets you directly in the line of the big roof, which is reached via another nice, slabby pitch (or two, depending on the topo). Manoeuvering the weakness in the roof is astonishingly easy (hip flexibility is helpful, nevertheless). It's hard to communicate with your partner from the next belay, so it's best to clarify signals before the runout. The last pitch is a nice chimney/dihedral (my partner got fooled and went to the right into terribly chossy terrain after the chock stone, though, so I had to go there and back to clean the gear). The descent is adventurous to say the least. If there's snow, prepare for some more belaying.
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| 7 |
Höhlentraverse
| 62m | Nassereith |  | Sab 14 Mag 2016 | ||||
| 6b |
★★★ Strada del Sole
- con
Dascha
1
5b
38m
2
6b
25m
3
6a
25m
4
5c
27m
5
5c
15m
6
6a+
30m
7
5c
45m
| 210m, 14 | Nösslach | ★★ Molto buona | | Mer 1 Lug 2020 | |||
|
Tolle Tour! 7:30 am Einstieg. 4h Kletterzeit. Sturz nach Griffausbruch am Ausstieg der 2. SL (vermutlich war ich zuweit rechts). 3. SL war bis zum 4. Haken triefend nass!
|
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| 5- |
★★★ Asyl in Österreich (Asyl in Österreich P1)
- con
Joey
| 220m | Hochmaderer |  | Gio 6 Ago 2020 | ||||
| 6a+ |
Eidechse
1
6a+
30m
2
| 30m | Telfs |  | Dom 16 Ago 2020 | ||||
| 7- |
★★★ Supersommer
- con
Nick
2
6-
20
arrampicata in lead da
Nick
4
2-
15
arrampicata in lead da
Nick
6
5+
25
arrampicata in lead da
Nick
11
6+
30
arrampicata in lead da
Nick
| 270m, 10 | Zillergrund | ★★ Molto buona | | Sab 3 Lug 2021 | |||
| 7- |
★★ Faszinosum Karwendulum
1
5+
45m
2
6+
45m
3
5
30m
4
6-
55m
5
5
30m
6
7-
30m
7
5
50m
8
6+
45m
| 330m, 30 | Sonnjoch |  | Dom 12 Set 2021 | ||||
|
In der letzten SL an Scheiß zamgeklettert und am 3. Haken nicht mehr aus der Position rausgekommen. Für den Grad vermutlich eher weiter links und nicht direkt. Evtl. auch ein Tritt weggebrochen oder einfach zu unfähig für harte Karwendelplatten, jedenfalls eine fordernde Tour
|
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| 6a+ |
★★ Geierwandführe
- con
Tobias Vogel
2
5c
arrampicata in lead da
Tobias Vogel
4
6a+
arrampicata in lead da
Tobias Vogel
| 100m | Haiming Geierwand | ★ Buona |  | Sab 17 Set 2022 | |||
| 6+ |
★★ Maxl's Gamsrevier
1
5
175m
2
6
3
6+
4
6
5
6-
6
1
| 180m, 11 | Martinswand |  | Sab 12 Nov 2022 | ||||
| 7- |
Südostwand (Peters-Haringer)
- con
Emil
1
5
2
6
3
7-
4
6+
Relativ harte 6+, Riss quert diagonal nach links oben.
5
7-
Glatte Verschneidung mit ekliger Plattenquerung, A0.
6
6+
Traumlänge. Steil henkelig und mal gerade.
7
7-
8
4+
9
3+
| 400m | Schüsselkarspitze | | Dom 30 Set 2018 | ||||
|
Abfahrt in Muc 5:15, Parkplatz 7.00, Wangalm 800, Einstieg um 1030.
Ausstieg und Querung auf Westgrat nicht gefunden und nach L9 über Route mit etwas aufwand abgeseilt. |
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| 7- |
★ Auckenthaler
1
5
40
2
5+
30
3
4+
20
4
6-
30
5
6
15
6
7-
20
7
6
20
8
7-
20
9
5
30
10
5-
30
11
5
30
12
5-
45
| 330m, 79 | Martinswand |  | Mar 7 Mar 2023 | ||||
|
Komplett sanierter Klassiker - erste 7- ziemlich harte und griffarme Verschneidung, sonst vergleichsweise soft bewertet (zweite 7- eher 6). Abwechslungsreich und durchaus empfehlenswert.
|
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| 6a |
★★ Alhambra
- con
Juls
1
5a
40m
arrampicata in lead da
Juls
2
5b
37m
3
3a
45m
arrampicata in lead da
Juls
4
5a
30m
5
4c
30m
arrampicata in lead da
Juls
6
1
50m
7
6a
35m
8
5a+
30m
arrampicata in lead da
Juls
9
5c
23m
10
6+
35m
11
3
25m
12
1
50m
| 430m | Haiming Geierwand | ★★ Molto buona |  | Sab 11 Giu 2022 | |||
| 6a |
★★ Leben im Sonnenschein
- con
Niklas
| 110m, 15 | Nassereith | ★ Buona |  | Ven 10 Mag 2024 | |||
| 6+ |
★★★ Blue Moon (Blue Moon Linkup Via Romantica (pitch 15))
- con
danisahni
| 580m | Wilder Kaiser | | Sab 24 Giu 2017 | ||||
| 6+ |
★★ Hiltimanie
- con
Christoph K
| 200m, 22 | Widderstein | ★★★ Classica | | Mar 14 Lug 2020 | |||
|
Super! Aber keine reine Plaisirroute =) Auf den Seilverlauf in der vierten Seillänge achten!
|
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| 6+ |
★★ Sechser Kombination
- con
@j0da
| 400m | Widderstein |  | Sab 25 Set 2021 | ||||
| 6+ |
★★ Gildenpfeiler
- con
Lorenz
1
3
15m
2
6+
30m
3
5+
25m
4
6+
40m
| 110m | Wilder Kaiser | ★★ Molto buona | | Sab 2 Lug 2022 | |||
|
Vor allem die zweite SL in der steileren Pfeilerwand ist sehr zu empfehlen.
|
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| 6 |
★★ Kraftlackl
1
5-
115m
2
6
3
5-
| 120m, 10 | Martinswand | | Sab 12 Nov 2022 | ||||
|
Nicht ansatzweise so brüchig wie erwartet. Trotzdem Griffe und Tritte prüfen! Absicherung gut. Sehr schöner Quergang.
|
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| 6+ A0 |
★★ Botanik Grand Prix
1
3+
50
2
5
50
3
4-
30
4
5
40
5
6-
25
6
5+
42
7
5
32
8
5+
27
9
6+
45
10
5
25
11
6
25
12
5+
55
13
3
35
14
5
32
15
5+
30
16
6+
22
17
5+
37
18
6+ A0
45
19
5+
48
| 700m, 19 | Martinswand | | Dom 27 Nov 2022 | ||||
| 6+ |
★★★ Wirklich oben bist du nie
1
6+
40
2
6+
27
3
6+
27
4
6+
25
5
6+
30
6
6
23
| 170m | Gimpel | | Ven 9 Giu 2023 | ||||
|
Schöne, homogene, abwechslungsreiche Route. Absolute Empfehlung!
|
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| 5c+ |
★★★ Südwind
1
3
140m
2
4
3
5a
4
5c
5
5c+
| 140m, 12 | Nösslach | ★★ Molto buona |  | Ven 20 Ago 2021 | |||
| 5c+ |
★★★ Südwind
1
3
140m
2
4
3
5a
4
5c
5
5c+
| 140m, 12 | Nösslach | ★★ Molto buona | | Mer 6 Lug 2022 | |||
| 5c+ |
★★★ Südwind
- con
Stephan Uelpenich
1
3
140m
arrampicata in lead da
Stephan Uelpenich
3
5a
arrampicata in lead da
Stephan Uelpenich
5
5c+
arrampicata in lead da
Stephan Uelpenich
| 140m, 12 | Nösslach | ★★★ Classica | | Sab 17 Set 2022 | |||
| 6 |
★★ Kirchlexpress Ausstieg Heroldweg
1
4-
2
4
3
5+
4
4+
5
3
6
4
7
3
8
5-
9
6-
10
4
11
3
12
6
13
5-
14
5+
15
3+
16
3
| Wilder Kaiser | ★★ Molto buona |  | Ven 21 Ago 2020 | ||||
| 6 |
★ Ravensburger Westwand
- con
Joey, Hermann, Mathias
| 140m | Roggalspitze | ★ Buona | | Ven 4 Set 2020 | |||
| 6 |
★ Aquafresca
- con
Franz
| 210m | Wilder Kaiser | Media | | Dom 24 Lug 2022 | |||
|
Ganz vernünftige Kletterei. Jedoch kein Must do.
L2 ist mit der langen Wasserrillen Platte wohl gleich die beste Länge. |
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| 4+ |
★★ Heppke Vitale
| 150m, 14 | Muttekopfhütte |  | Sab 20 Ago 2022 | ||||
|
exit after pitch 4
|
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| 5b |
★★ Kollerweg
2
4c
25m
4
5a+
25m
| 100m | Haiming Geierwand | | Dom 10 Ott 2021 | ||||
| 6- |
★★ Pussypump
- con
Jonas Eckhoff
2
| 24m | Nofels |  | Mer 8 Lug 2020 | ||||
| 6- |
Emilio Zuccero Gedenkweg
- con
Lukas, Hermann
| 120m | Biberacher Hütte | | Sab 8 Ago 2020 | ||||
|
Erste Seillänge deutlich schwerer als die zweite Seillänge(eventuell wegen Ausbruch). Oft sehr brüchig. Speziell in der Verschneidung auf den Seilverlauf und Steinschlag achten! Stände teilweise nur ein Ring mit geklebten Haken oder nur ein Seil in einer Sanduhr.
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| 6+ |
★★ Plaisir
1
6-
30m
2
6+
30m
3
6-
45m
| 110m | Wilder Kaiser | ★★ Molto buona | | Dom 23 Ago 2020 | |||
| 6- |
★★ Rucola
- con
Nicolas N
| 220m | Martinswand | ★★ Molto buona |  | Gio 26 Nov 2020 | |||
|
sau cool zum üaba
|
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| 6- |
★★ Rucola
- con
C
1
5-
37m
2
5-
28m
3
4
32m
4
5
38m
5
6-
32m
6
5-
25m
7
4+
30m
| 220m | Martinswand | | Mar 1 Mar 2022 | ||||
| 5+ |
★★ Südost Wandl
- con
Nick
| 120m | Nassereith | | Sab 14 Mag 2016 | ||||
| 5a+ |
★★ Südost Wandl
| 120m | Nassereith | | Sab 9 Ott 2021 | ||||
| 5a+ |
★★ Südost Wandl
- con
Niklas
| 120m | Nassereith | | Ven 10 Mag 2024 | ||||
| 5 |
★★ Platenigl (Via Platenigl)
- con
Nick
| 90m, 33 | Nassereith | | Sab 14 Mag 2016 | ||||
| 5+ |
★★ Flotter Dreier
- con
Rike
1
4+
30m
2
5-
25m
3
5+
25m
4
5
30m
5
5-
30m
| 140m | Martinswand | | Sab 30 Ott 2021 | ||||
| 5+ |
★ Gargamel
- con
Lorenz
1
5+
35m
2
5
30m
| 65m | Wilder Kaiser | ★ Buona | | Sab 2 Lug 2022 | |||
| 5+ |
★★ Morgenstund
1
5-
42m
2
3+
25m
3
3
20m
4
4+
20m
5
5
25m
6
5+
35m
7
4+
35m
| 200m | Gimpel | ★★ Molto buona |  | Mer 10 Ago 2022 | |||
| 5+ |
★★ Flotter Dreier
1
4+
30
2
5-
25
3
5+
25
4
5
30
Partner hat die Querung nicht gepackt - Filmreifer Rückzug über den Quergang | 110m | Martinswand | | Dom 8 Gen 2023 | ||||
| 5+ |
★★ Flotter Dreier
1
4+
30
2
5-
25
3
5+
25
4
5
30
5
5-
30
| 140m | Martinswand |  | Dom 21 Mag 2023 | ||||
| 5+ |
★★ Flotter Dreier
1
4+
30m
2
5-
25m
3
5+
25m
4
5
30m
5
5-
30m
| 140m | Martinswand |  | Mar 14 Mag 2024 | ||||
|
3er Seilschaft
|
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| 4c |
★★ Herbstsonne
1
4b
26m
3
4c
30m
| 110m | Nassereith | | Sab 9 Ott 2021 | ||||
| 5 |
★★ Bronchitis
4
5
5
4
| 98m, 11 | Martinswand |  | Lun 2 Ago 2021 | ||||
| 5 |
★★ Bronchitis
1
5-
38
2
5-
25
3
5-
35
4
5
35
5
4
40
| 170m, 11 | Martinswand |  | Sab 24 Set 2022 | ||||
| 5 |
★★ Bronchitis
1
5-
235m
2
5-
3
5-
4
5
5
4
| 240m, 11 | Martinswand | | Sab 12 Nov 2022 | ||||
| 4b |
★★ Sammersteig
1
3a
34m
2
4b
29m
3
3c
29m
| 92m | Nassereith | | Ven 25 Mar 2022 | ||||
| 5- |
★ Pfeilereinstiege - Links
- con
C
1
4+
35m
2
5-
25m
arrampicata in lead da
C
| 60m | Martinswand | | Dom 27 Feb 2022 | ||||
| 5- |
★★ Westkante
| 98m, 5 | Löwenzähne | ★★ Molto buona |  | Mar 23 Ago 2022 | |||
| 5- |
★★ Emmentaler
2
4
50m
4
4
50m
| 200m | Martinswand | ★★ Molto buona | | Dom 16 Ott 2022 | |||
| 5- |
★ Ostkamin
2
5-
| 40m | Walgau | ★★ Molto buona | | Dom 13 Nov 2022 | |||
| 4+ |
★★ Mitteldurchstieg
1
4
20m
| 50m | Rofan |  | Mar 28 Ago 2018 | ||||
| 4a |
★★ Sonntagsspaziergang
- con
Lila
| 99m | Nassereith |  | Dom 28 Mar 2021 | ||||
| 4 |
★ Love Story
- con
andy
| 230m | Tajaköpfe | ★ Buona |  | Ven 22 Lug 2022 | |||
|
Leider ist viel Schotter auf der Route, man muss echt gut aufpassen, keinen Steinschlag auszulösen.
Der Abstieg ist recht steil und kann durch die teils feine Kiesauflage ziemlich nervenaufreibend werden.
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| 4 |
★ Love Story
- con
nugmaguggn
| 230m | Tajaköpfe | ★ Buona |  | Ven 22 Lug 2022 | |||
|
Zustieg nicht so klar, erst einige weniger Meter dem angeschriebenen Weg zum Klettersteig folgen, dann einem etwas versteckten Weg rechts folgen. Der Weg wird immer schwächer bis man sich selber orientieren muss.
An der Wand angekommen kann man die ersten Bolts erkennen, leicht rechts über dem Geröllfeld.
|
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| 4+ |
★★ Normalanstieg
| 32m | Löwenzähne | ★★ Molto buona | | Mar 23 Ago 2022 | |||
| 4a |
★★ Via Sebastian
1
4a
40m
2
4a
| 40m | Martinswand | | Sab 24 Set 2022 | ||||
| 4+ |
★★ Normalanstieg
- con
geli
| 100m | Löwenzähne | ★ Buona |  | Dom 23 Ott 2022 | |||
| 4 |
★★ Höhenfieber
- con
Christopf
1
3
15m
2
3
20m
3
3+
20m
4
3
15m
5
3
15m
6
3
20m
7
4-
10m
8
3+
20m
9
4
20m
10
3
15m
11
3
20m
| 190m, 15 | Valsertal | | Sab 9 Ott 2021 | ||||
| 4- |
★ Kemptner Kante
1
4-
40m
2
3
30m
3
3-
32m
4
3
25m
5
3+
40m
6
3-
45m
7
3
40m
8
2-
45m
9
3-
30m
| 330m, 13 | Aggenstein | | Dom 22 Mag 2022 | ||||
| 3a |
★★ Die Erdige
2
3a
| 30m | Nassereith | | Ven 2 Apr 2021 | ||||
| 7 |
Südwestwand
| 280m, 16 | Rote Flüh | | Dom 31 Ott 2021 | ||||
| 7- |
Südostwand (Peters-Haringer)
- con
Jeni
1
5
arrampicata in lead da
Jeni
3
7-
arrampicata in lead da
Jeni
| 400m | Schüsselkarspitze | | Sab 24 Set 2022 | ||||
|
Started off relatively well with the first two pitches, despite the bad conditions. The third pitch was completely wet, though, so Jeni switched to aid mode. This, however, took a pretty long time. I managed to second it cleanly and fast, but wouldn't have dared this on lead. We thought the wet pitches were over now, because after the wet chimney start of pitch 4, it looked dry, so we pushed on. I managed to cleanly lead that pitch, the end of which is a brutally hard, polished crack which reminded me of "Steckelesriss" in Burglesau. Jeni started up the next crux pitch, but gave up after half an hour or so, which was the next bad sign. I managed to finish that pitch, but looking at the clock, I was dead sure that we wouldn't make it to the end of pitch 7 in time. I definitely didn't want to get benighted, so we decided to bail. Luckily, there are many glue-ins, so you can back-track relatively safely. Our rope got stuck once, shortly before we reached the ground, but we managed to pull it down after a while.
|
|||||||||
| 7- |
★★ Oktowasunn
1
6+
25m
2
6
25m
3
7-
20m
4
4+
50m
5
4+
45m
6
6
40m
7
5-
45m
8
5+
40m
| 290m, 29 | Wilder Kaiser | | Dom 9 Ott 2022 | ||||
|
Nach den SSL keinerlei Motivation mehr clean & sketchy weiter zu machen.
|
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| 6 |
★★ Neue Südostkante
- con
RockrockerMo
1
4
30m
2
3
35m
3
5+
45m
4
5
30m
5
6
25m
| 170m | Gimpel |  | Dom 31 Mar 2024 | ||||
|
Too much wind. We hike the evening and made a bivouac at the hut. Early bird first walk through snow until the bottom. We went right from the root free to skip the 2 first pitches. Spaced split so no plaisir but normal for alpine route. The third pitch was nice and I expect that the rest of the route is really enjoyable. Do not underestimate the way down if there is snow.
|
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| 4 |
★ Spiralweg
- con
Bovist
1
4
35m
2
4
15m
| 50m, 6 | Rofan | ★ Buona | | Sab 31 Ago 2019 | |||
|
There were 4 people in front of us, which we only realised when talking to two of them at the first belay. They were terribly slow and when I had just finished the bulk of pitch 2, sitting uncomfortably mid-route on a chockstone waiting for them to clear the next belay, it became clear that this wouldn't happen any time soon. So eventually I climbed back down to the belay and we abseiled down since we didn't have too much time on our hands …
To the route itself: the first pitch was actually meant to be climbed in the chimney, but I didn't spot some of the hidden pitons and threads, so I climbed the pillar on the right and then traversed back into the chimney at a good piton. Interesting, but a bit scary. The second pitch is quite short with a funny tunnel section (you don't fit through with a backpack!) before the belay. |
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| 7c |
★★★ Affengeil
1
6c+
17
Good Warmup
2
7c
13
Extension is difficult to onsight. Good fun the second time around. | 30m, 14 | Kalkofen | ★★★ Classica |  | Sab 27 Apr 2024 | |||
|
Route reminds me of Gäsi climbing =)
|
|||||||||
| 8+ |
★ Abschlussdiplom
- con
Gerit
1
7-
2
8+
| 35m | Amberg | | Dom 14 Mag 2023 | ||||
|
Felt hard today in very humid conditions.
Especially the first pitch is hard for the grade!
|
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| 8 |
★★ Fledermaus
- con
Henri
1
8-
2
8
| 16m | Schellenberg | ★ Buona | | Mer 24 Mag 2023 | |||
|
You basically need two shots for every climb here...one to clean the holds and the second one to actually climb it.
Some fun through the roof, for me not harder than P1 (which felt hard for the grade). |
|||||||||
| 8 ~8- |
★★★ Phantom
- con
Franz
1
6+
45m
2
5
45m
3
6
45m
4
7+
25m
Bin am Stand (nur ein einzelner Borhhaken) vorbei- und den Riss weitergeklettert; die Bohrhaken rechts hatte ich gar nicht gesehen.
5
8
20m
6
7+
45m
7
5+
10m
8
8-
45m
Beim ersten Versuch in der Schlüsselstelle gefallen.
9
4
30m
| 310m, 10 | Wilder Kaiser | ★★★ Classica | | Mar 13 Giu 2023 | |||
|
Super schöne Route in tollem Ambiente.
|
|||||||||
| 7a |
★★★ Hyperventilation
- con
, Kathe, Michele De Marchi
1
6c+
25m
2
7a
25m
| 50m | Walgau | ★★★ Classica | | Dom 28 Giu 2020 | |||
| 7a |
★★ Krabbelstube
- con
Fabian Michel
| 37m, 18 | Geisterschmiedwand |  | Dom 30 Lug 2023 | ||||
| 8- |
★★★ Anderl Heckmair Gedächnisweg oberer Teil
- con
Simon L.
1
7
35
2
7
30
3
7-
35
4
8-
30
5
6
30
6
1
15
7
5
45
8
3
50
| 270m | Widderstein | | Sab 30 Set 2023 | ||||
| 8- |
★★★ Bayrischer Traum
- con
Lukas G
2
4-
25
arrampicata in lead da
Lukas G
4
7
arrampicata in lead da
Lukas G
5
6+
40
arrampicata in lead da
Tim
Die schönste und für mich fordernste Seillänge. Wir hatten den 4er Friend doppelt dabei und da war ich auch froh drum.
6
7-
45
arrampicata in lead da
Lukas G
7
8-
30
arrampicata in lead da
Tim
Da war einfach der Saft aus, mit A0 geht die Schlüsselstelle gut.
8
6+
Abseilen da schon spät am Tag. Wir mussten leider am Einstieg auf 2 Seilschaften vor uns warten. Komme bestimmt nochmal wieder um die letzten Längen und den Ausstieg nachzuholen
9
6-
| 210m, 8 | Schüsselkarspitze |  | Sab 16 Set 2023 | ||||
| 6c |
★★ Fleißiges Bienchen
- con
Henri
1
6c
25
2
6c
25
| 50m | Walgau | ★★★ Classica | | Lun 21 Giu 2021 | |||
|
The start is a bit bouldery but the rest is really nice sustained climbing.
Fell during my onsight attempt after 40m at the very end past the overhang... |
|||||||||
| 5c |
★★★ Fly P1
1
5c
| 45m | Martinswand |  | Gio 14 Mar 2024 | ||||
| 7- |
★ Wegrama
- con
Ruben Sachsse
1
6-
40m
2
5+
35m
3
7-
20m
4
6-
50m
5
6+
35m
| 180m, 12 | Martinswand | ★★ Molto buona |  | Dom 28 Apr 2024 | |||
| 7 ~7+ |
★★★ Rebitsch-Spiegl-Führe
- con
Tobias
2
7
40m
arrampicata in lead da
Tobias
3
7-
40m
arrampicata in lead da
Tobias
5
6
45m
arrampicata in lead da
Tobias
7
4
20m
arrampicata in lead da
Tobias
| 290m | Wilder Kaiser |  | Dom 23 Lug 2023 | ||||
| 7 ~7+ |
★★ Edelweiß
1
7
35
Some parts were totally wet
2
6-
15
3
6
30
4
6+
35
5
6
30
6
6
25
7
6+
25
Layback crack... grassy and dusty..
8
7
40
Cornice is cool but the rest of the pitch is mossy. IMO, doesn't worth push further after the LOGBUCH | 240m | Roßklamm |  | Mar 21 Mag 2024 | ||||
| 7- |
★★ Flying grass
1
6+
30m
2
7-
25m
3
5
25m
4
6+
25m
5
5+
45m
| 150m | Martinswand | | Mar 21 Feb 2023 | ||||
|
Schlüsselstelle ziemlich schwierig für den Grad, sonst legitim, bzw oben leichter. Sehr schöne letzten zwei Seillängen.
|
|||||||||
| 6+ |
★★ Maxl's Gamsrevier
1
5
2
6
3
6+
4
6
5
6-
6
1
| 180m, 11 | Martinswand | | Mer 22 Feb 2023 | ||||
|
Amüsante Pistol Squat Platte in der 4. SL
7- in der 2. Seillänge rechts umgangen, sah nicht einladend aus. Insgesamt recht schöne Msl mit einigen kreativen Bewegungen. |
|||||||||
| 6a+ |
★★★ Flo's Line
- con
Anna Gre
| 140m, 14 | Burschlwand | ★★★ Classica | | Sab 22 Apr 2023 | |||
| 7- |
★★ Neue Südostkante
1
4
30m
2
3
35m
3
5+
45m
4
5
30m
5
6
25m
6
6-
25m
7
5+
30m
8
6-
30m
9
7-
30m
10
6-
40m
| 320m | Gimpel |  | Dom 28 Mag 2023 | ||||
| 6+ |
★★★ Südostwand
1
6+
440m
2
4+
3
5
4
5+
5
6
6
5+
7
4+
8
4
| 440m | Rote Flüh | ★★★ Classica | | Mer 19 Ott 2022 | |||
| 6+ |
★★ Kaiser Max Spätlese
1
5
2
6
3
5-
4
5
5
4+
6
4+
7
6+
Extrem viel Widerstand im Seil, wenn man aus der Platte rauskommt und über‘s schrofen-band bis zum Baum, der als Stand dient, laufen muss. | 220m | Martinswand | | Sab 19 Ago 2023 | ||||
