Tutti 11 ascensioni visualizzati.
Grado | Via | Stile equipaggiamento | Qualità | |||
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Ven 6 Nov 2020 - Achleiten | ||||||
Panoramawandl | ||||||
8b | ★★ Rocketman | 20m | ★★★ Classica | |||
Thanks to misha for the perfect beta! Pretty hard for 8b
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Mer 7 Ott 2020 - Secret Crag | ||||||
8c | ★★★ Goldrausch | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
Wow such an amazing one!! thanks for the beta and showing us this line Heiko!!
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Dom 4 Ott 2020 - Wilder Kaiser | ||||||
Schleierwasserfall Graue Wand | ||||||
8c+ | ★★★ Lichtjahre | 25m | ★★★ Classica | |||
After a relaxed breakfast at my girlfriend’s parents place, we drove to Schleierwasserfall and I warmed up with a 7c route. My buddy Mischa Piccolruaz tried the route Lichtjahre and so I was able to watch him closely and get a good impression of the route.
I was psyched to give it a go as well and after Mischa convinced me I should even try to flash it, I warmed up at the fingerboard and went through the route mentally before I attempted it. The route went really well, I loved the style and I felt on top of my game so I could flash it pretty solidly. It always takes two, though, to achieve a flash: someone who does the work and checks out the route and then is able to talk you through. It was Mischa who gave me such great support, thanks buddy! Lichtjahre is located in the grey sector of the Schleierwasserfall, where the routes are slightly shorter (about 20m), it's one of the best routes of the crag and I can only recommend it Right next to it there are a couple routes that I already knew, as for example Mercy Street which is pretty similar in style so I knew what to expect. A lot of sharp holds and quite difficult from the start. Some bouldery sections with long and powerful moves but good holds. Closer to the end you need to keep it together as it’s all about endurance. One of the trickier parts was where a big foot hold had broken away a few months ago. Many say the route got a lot harder since then. Even before it was a hard 8c, so it’s absolutely fair for Alex Megos to say it’s an 8c+ now. After flashing something it's always hard to grade it but I think 8c+ could be right, although it didn't feel much harder than Mercy Street for me, so one could argue it's still 8c, we will see what other people will say Due to my biceps tendon injury I had to adapt my training. Rock climbing proved great for my recovery, so I climbed a lot recently, improved my endurance and that’s why I feel super comfortable on the rocks these days. Psyche for more! |
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Sab 10 Nov 2018 - Scheabichl | ||||||
7b+ | ★★★ Harry Has It All | |||||
8a+ | ★★★ Baumkrone | |||||
Gio 21 Apr 2011 - Piburger See | ||||||
8a+ | ★★ Metamorphose | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Dom 23 Mag 2010 - Armelen | ||||||
8c | ★★★ der schwarze Schwan | 20m | ★★★ Classica | |||
YEAH! amazing route! thx to the Özis:Heiko, Luke and Babsy!
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Mer 23 Lug 2008 - Ginzling | ||||||
Bergstation 5 Sterne | ||||||
8a | ★★★ Scientist (The Scientist) | 18m | ★★★ Classica | |||
super route with a dyno in the end
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Dom 30 Mar 2008 - Wilder Kaiser | ||||||
Schleierwasserfall Hauptsektor | ||||||
8a+ | ★★★ White winds | 20m | ★★★ Classica | |||
need more endurance! was like a onsight
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Dom 17 Giu 2007 - Niederthai | ||||||
Steiler Block | ||||||
8a+ | ★★★ Wargames | 15m | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Cool! super day
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Ven 1 Set 2006 - Niederthai | ||||||
Steiler Block | ||||||
8a | ★★ Dopingprobe | 15m | ★★ Molto buona | |||
Cool, Not so hard, holes holes holes!Just one hard move at the end!
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Tutti 11 ascensioni visualizzati.