A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
James Hugh FesterygaThe size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Kulen Basecamp
12 in Crag
- 1.1. Pagoda Cliff 3 in Cliff
-
1.2.
Camp Cliff 9 in Cliff
- 1.2.1. South West Tentsite 2 in Sector
- 1.2.2. North West Tentsite 7 in Sector
- 1.2.3. East Tentsite 0 in Sector
- 1.3. Pagoda parking cliff 0 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Kulen Basecamp 12 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Per lo più Arrampicata sportiva
Lat / Long: 13.577756, 104.206145
sommario
A campground in the heart of Kulen with climbing, mountain biking, and hiking activities for all ages to enjoy. Stay and enjoy the amazing sunset views and peaceful srurroundings.
descrizione
Location not yet announced. The Camp should open dry season 2022.
limitazioni per l'accesso
Must stay at the campground, cost not yet announced.
avvicinamento
Mildly difficult trail access from Ta Penh village, by foot or mountain bike.
dove alloggiare
At the Kulen basecamp.
etica
As this is private land please obey all rules set by the campground. The largest cliff is beneath a small wat. Please respect the monks activities and enjoy climbing while being mindful of your noise and presence.
1.1. Pagoda Cliff 3 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Arrampicata sportiva e Con corda dall'alto
descrizione
The biggest cliff in the Eco-Camp area, the small pagoda sits at the top of the cliff.
avvicinamento
From the campground follow the trail west to the pagoda. To access the top pass through the pagoda to the big bare area, cliff faces west and north. To access the bottom follow the stairs to the east around the rock down to the bottom. At present the bottom is very full of garbage, be careful.
storia
The pagoda was inhabited by a hermit monk for over twenty years, the month that he died was the same month that the eco camp got the lease for the land. Local climbers from Siem Reap were invited to start development in May of 2022. This author had the pleasure of working with them to create a climbing area for the camp ground.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Takes a little longer
Same as Making it Work, but don’t avoid the crux like a sissy. | 5.11 | 12m, 4 | |||
| 2 |
Making it work
Belay from the little slab at the base of the cliff, climb is characterized by pockets made from the sandstone layers. At the 4th clip there’s a large cave to the left, avoid it as some of the hermits live in there at times. Slightly run out between clips 3-4 because of the layers. Can cheat the crux by following the crack up to the right and traversing back over along the top to the anchors. FA: James Hugh Festeryga, 2 Giu 2022 | 5.8 | 12m, 4 | |||
| 3 |
I’m from Ontario so slab is kind of my jam
To the right of the lead climb there are top anchors on the face. Not super easy to access fro the top, but offers clear path for top rope not to rub too much. At the bottom there’s a gradually steepening slab covered in green slippery moss up to the first ledge. Pretty straightforward from there. Lead climb bolting was abandoned due to the hollow quality of the rock. FA: James Hugh Festeryga, 2 Giu 2022 | 5.7 | 12m | |||
1.2. Camp Cliff 9 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Per lo più Arrampicata sportiva
descrizione
The cliffs lining the campground, especially to the north. Very short climbs, up to 5m, but bolted for safety.
avvicinamento
Between the tenting spots on the north side of the campground there are access paths to the cliff bases.
storia
The campground development began in early 2022. May of 2022 local Siem Reap climbers began clearing out the bottom of the camp cliffs. Several high boulder routes were discovered, for the sake of safety they were developed as lead climbs.
1.2.1. South West Tentsite 2 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Tutti Arrampicata sportiva
descrizione
The tent site furthest to the north west.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
CoolEh?N
Start with hands on the face, feet under the overhang. Crimp up to the slopey pockets. In the deep pocket be prepared to have 1000 ants on you within seconds, can switch grip in the ant pocket to undercling. Top out on big jug in between the two anchor bolts. FA: James Hugh Festeryga, 2 Giu 2022 | 5.6 | 5m, 2 | |||
| 2 |
Downspout
Climb to the southern anchor. Really green and slippery on account of the water trickle here that created a perfect cleft in the top of the rock, the downspout. FA: James Hugh Festeryga, 2 Giu 2022 | 5.4 | 5m, 1 | |||
1.2.2. North West Tentsite 7 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Per lo più Arrampicata sportiva
descrizione
The tent site to the North West (beside the South West site)
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
The corner
On the corner of the rock, furthest to the south. FA: Buth, 2 Giu 2022 | 5.6 | 4m | |||
| 2 |
Little roof
Next to the layback crack there is a little roof. Should be a climb here. | 5m | ||||
| 3 |
See ya pows!
A nice layback crack almost the length of the route. Hits a teeny tiny roof one meter below the anchors. | 4m | ||||
| 4 |
Blown Wide Open
Under the big tree there is an obvious yellow crack, there are anchors but tying to the big branch will save your rope a lot of friction. Hand shredding project on explosive sandstone. We’ve blown off more holds than there are on the route. The crux is early, best guess is to reach deep in the yellow coloured crack for a slopey side grip. Recommend listening to tunes by Big Wreck to bring the psyche. | 5m | ||||
| 5 |
8 Ball
Start in front of the big red barked tree. (For top rope recommend anchoring in the tree, actually, save your rope a lot of trouble). Big pocket on the right gets you of the ground, big pocket above your head gets you to the first bolt. Straight forward slopey stuff from there. Very bouldery route. | 5m, 2 | ||||
| 6 |
Kroma Crashpad
Far end of the sector is a project that ideally one would have a few crash pads for. Start with a traverse on the overhung start until your back is almost touching the boulder behind you. A fall early results in a boulder bump, hence why a crashpad is ideal. Transition from pockets to crimps to slopes to achieve the steep slab top. Anchors in the rock BUT a top rope attempt will absolutely shred a rope. | 6m, 3 | ||||
| 7 |
Halfway there
Same top as Kroma Crashpad, start from on top of the boulder to skip all the hard stuff. | 4m, 2 | ||||
1.2.3. East Tentsite 0 routes in Sector
descrizione
Tentsite to the east is on top of a large overhanging ledge. Bouldering possible underneath.
1.3. Pagoda parking cliff 0 routes in Cliff
descrizione
New cliff, unexplored, plans to bolt and anchor and abseil in for a look.
avvicinamento
From the flat “parking” area at the pagoda head a few meters down trail to the little rocky lookout, you’re at the top. No word yet on bottom access.
storia
Kimsroy and James noticed on a recon walk. Because the trees at the base were so tall we assumed it was only a couple of meters tall. Turns out it’s a lot taller than expected.
2. Index by grade
| Grade | 
|
Stars | Name | Style | Pop | Area |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 5.4 | Downspout | 5m, 1 | 1.2.1. South West Tentsite | |||
| 5.6 | CoolEh?N | 5m, 2 | 1.2.1. South West Tentsite | |||
| The corner | 4m | 1.2.2. North West Tentsite | ||||
| 5.7 | I’m from Ontario so slab is kind of my jam | 12m | 1.1. Pagoda Cliff | |||
| 5.8 | Making it work | 12m, 4 | 1.1. Pagoda Cliff | |||
| 5.11 | Takes a little longer | 12m, 4 | 1.1. Pagoda Cliff | |||
| ? | 8 Ball | 5m, 2 | 1.2.2. North West Tentsite | |||
| Blown Wide Open | 5m | 1.2.2. North West Tentsite | ||||
| Halfway there | 4m, 2 | 1.2.2. North West Tentsite | ||||
| Kroma Crashpad | 6m, 3 | 1.2.2. North West Tentsite | ||||
| Little roof | 5m | 1.2.2. North West Tentsite | ||||
| See ya pows! | 4m | 1.2.2. North West Tentsite |