Vie in Calabogie

Climb the open easy-angled face up a crack (just to the right of the bolts) to a small right-facing corner.

Protection is scarce and poor for the first 2/3 of the climb, but easy to find at the top.

Starts with one hand in the jug on the right side of the cave and one hand on the starting hold for 'West Nile'. Move up to the lip and top out at the prow.

Just right of Breakfast in Vienna is a second bolted line with a faded plaque.

A good candidate for your first 5.11

Originally put up as a rarely climbed mixed route, now retrobolted as sport in hopes it will see more traffic. Two new bolts have been added to replace the need for gear on the easy upper slab. If you wish to climb it in the original style do not use bolts 3 and 5.

Fa/developer unknown.

Continue past the lower offs for Twinkie. Above, steep powerful moves lead to a thrilling top out. Avoid extra slack in the belay at the first crux.

Right of Wrong Way. Head up and right.

From the anchor of Twinkie, head right following the gluein bolts that cut across the big face and head up through the notch in the roof.

Multi-pitch! The rope drag would be heinous if done as one pitch. Never tried it but it looks super airy and fun!

Ken never came back to finish it off before he moved. It may need cleaning and fixing.

Climb offwidth. V3 don't know how to crack climb.

Start up the bolts at the left end of the roof, then follow the bolts along the roof to exit out the right side.

Climb up the middle of the overhanging face.

Small boulder just past Gatekeeper and before frigid cave. Sit start on the right side of the steep overhang and move up and left to top out.

Find your way up on the razor blade crimps among all the crumbling mica on this technical slab.

Behind Fire One.

SDS decent left hand sidepull. Fire up and right for sharp edge and find a way to top. Bad Landing. Est V7.

Start under the first bolt. Use hidden small crimps and sidepulls to gain the second bolt though an interesting sequence then proceeded through the easier (5.6) mini-roof tiers trending left. Slabby top joins Fallus at last mini-roof. Stick clip recommended -- crux is very low and clipping hold for first bolt is bad for grade.

Be mindful of the potential swing while cleaning this route. Keep an eye on your rope above you and communicate with your belayer.

Needs topo and description. See guidebook.

SDS left hand on arete right on jug. Topout directly above.

SDS left hand on small crimp, right on arete. Climb the face.

Closed. Climb the low angle slab into a dihedral.

A rather airy route, providing sustained difficulties. Start just to the right of Phasers on Kill at a short round-nosed arete. Climb up the arete to the base of a prominent dihedral (about 4m). Continue up the dihedral to a small triangular roof. Step left and move up to a large roof. At the back of the roof, use a finger crack to traverse 6m to the right, then exit straight up. Stepping up into the base of the dihedral is the crux, and it is poorly protected. Otherwise the route has excellent protection. (Friends 3 #1s, 2 #1.5s, 2 #2s.)

Sit start from the sweet pinch and the crimp on the right side of the boulder.

Marker at the bottom of the climb. Easy climbing to a roof. Mantle over it (crux) to easier climbing.

Follow the thin crack.

Starts between Manteling and Babylon. Stays left of Babylon. A key flake broke off during FA and has never been repeated. This flake is now the cheater stone for Babylon.

Start about 1m right of "Hump Day", below a jagged left-facing flake.

Climb up to the left-facing flake and to the top of it. Then angle up and slightly left to the right-facing dihedral and up to the "Hump Day" anchor, ignore "Hump Day"'s bolts in favour of the fine gear in the dihedral.

Middle line that goes through the hardest part of the roof. Need to be very creative on this roof!! Block in the roof still needs to be remove.

Sit start to the left of the slab with left hand on a jug and right hand on a crimp. Climb up using the arete and holds on the slab.

Face left of arete and right of tree.

Start at the very beginning of the cliff, where a large boulder has fallen off. Step up onto an undercut brown slab. Climb up to the roof, then move left onto a broken slab. Climb it easily to the top.

Stand up on the detached triangular block to the right of fallus. Mantle into the gully then sright onto the face and up. Protection tenuous in the middle. Maybe a star if it was clean.

FA probably not me. Its a fairly obvious line that has likely seen previous climbs.

The lower half of Brick Top and currently the first route encountered when arriving at the Core Values Sector. All routes in this sector have markers at their base. Climb the vertical face passing several cruxes.

SDS on good jug. Climb the prow.

Across from the Portal slab. SDS on sloping rail and up

Right on jug, left on crimpy pinch. Climb the tall face.

Start on the big ledge and dyno/deadpoint to the top of the boulder. One-move wonder.

Grade greatly varies on where you start, how you climb it and your height.

Between "Breakfast Cookie" and "Tipytoe" are a couple bolts, after the 2nd one the route heads up through a fairly substantial roof on gear.

Climb the arête on the right side of the overhanging face.

Follow the nice rail, shoot left hand in a good sidepull and go up.

See the beta here: https://youtu.be/lnHzi4qlXKk

Sit start, pinch the right arete. Work your way though up the overhanging face on thin crimps and the arete. Try not to bleed all over the problem.

SDS on the glory jugs with a great right heel. Fire out to the small, sloping crimp and then the decent sloper rail. Find a way to the top of the prow. Bad Landing. Est V5.

Start on the rail and reach. Grade highly height dependent.

Start sitting, matched on the low sloping ledge to the left of the prow. Climb up.

Face left of arete.

Start at the base of the vague arete right of "Jedi Mind Tricks". This route still needs cleaning plus death block and poison ivy removal. Do not climb

Start about 4m right of 'Beam Me Up Scotty', in the center of the overhanging wall. Climb up a flake and make a long reach up to a horizontal crack. Reach up right to another thin horizontal crack, and traverse out right almost to the arete. Step up into a thin crack, then out right around the arete and mantleshelf onto a good ledge (first rest). Step left and finish up a short notch.

With the 2011 retro-bolting, this probably no longer warrants the (historical) R rating, so removed.

Exciting climbing throughout. Clip the awkward final bolt, catch your breath on the ledge, then make the spooky step out right onto the slab that leads to the anchor. Marker at the bottom of the climb.

Start on arete left of Manteling. Traverse right and top on on corner.

SDS, on arête. Head up along arête.

https://youtu.be/cPMZFBTidL0

Climb the fused crack up the left side of the slab.

Right on crescent shaped crimp, left on sidepull.

Where the trail first meets the cliff at the north end is a large boulder which recently (geologically speaking) fell off the cliff. Start just to the right of this boulder at a right-facing dihedral, initially using an obvious jam crack. Climb to the top of the dihedral (8m) to a nice ledge and anchors to the right. Well cleaned as of June 2021. Shares anchors with Proboscis. Dihedral sounds hollow so treat placements with suspicion.

A few meters left of "Pull Up" is a slab of rock dyed black from water running down. In the spring this is covered in ice, and there are ice climbs on this section in the winter.

Climb up, staying to the left out of the dihedral, over the bulges on thin holds, to a solid cedar at the top.

Jam your self into the crack between this boulderand the chief. Move up and topout.

Similar to 'The High Road' but follow the lower sloping rail instead of the lip.

Follow the feature out right. Clip the last bolt then step into the corner to finish. This sport climb is the first sport climb of the cliff(Furthest climbers left).

SDS on small crimps in middle of face.

Just east of Portal, right side. SDS on right crimp and left on arete.

Climb the well featured slab between the tree and the arête.

Sit start matched on the lowest edge and move up.

Sit start on low on good sidepulls on the face and the left arete.

SDS on nice rail. Head left and up though small edge or slopers and fire for the jug-sidepull.

Sit-start with left hand low on rail, right in obvious crimp on the face. Slap up and shoot to the right lip.

About 5m right of "Crow's Nest", using a narrow, exposed path. Climb the off-width crack, step on the tower and finish by climbing a fractured, chossy crack system to a bolted anchor out right.

Very loose and sketchy rock. A #5 or #6 will protect the off-width, or they'll knock off the whole pillar... hard to say. Don't fall.

Move into 'Beautiful Odyssey' from a much lower start. Begins on a ledge to the bottom right.

SDS in small cave. Topout on good holds.

Start on the low thin seam. Top directly though the roof

Practice Anchor

Just left of the base of "Closed" on a boulder facing the cliff. Use this to teach your friends to clean instead of yelling up at them when they've topped the route.

Also route development isn't easy or cheap, Please consider donating to Crag Care if you are enjoying all the routes.

https://cragcare.org/

SDS matched in wide shelf in the overhang. Moove up the shallow corner and topout.