Ascensioni in South-Western Ontario

Three big loose rocks, x’d with chalk be careful. They move but will require a bit of work to pull out

I'm totally done with bottle glass after doing this one. cleaned up a lot of broken glass sitting in key jams. ugh. better now. rap off the mid pinnacle itself instead of goofing around with the sport rap rings.

Slabby start is a bit challenging for shorter climbers. Considering using the left arete.

#1/6. High first bolt... Stick clipped because why not, but climbing easy. Lots of bolts on this one. Some nice moves. A good warmup.

#4/6. This is not a sport route anymore - chains are still up, but bolts have been removed (2019 according to Rakkup guide). Climbed with full rack; only used 3 cams... One large to get past the initial ledge into the chimney, which I removed once I was over it, then a small Friend and one small cam higher up. This felt basically like a solo, or maybe a super easy PG route? Sean said there were some nut holes I could have used, but climbing was so easy and felt so safe there was little motivation to protect myself.

#2/6. Sean led. I pulled the rope and climbed thru his gear, cleaned and lowered.

Below the slab, this climbs like a 5.6. slab bit is more like 5.8. Ends too soon.

#3/6. Second trad climb of 2024. Placed 4 med/large cams, including my big blue DMM dragon ... Might be only the 2nd or 3rd time I've used that one.

#5/6. The polished flaring hand crack in the middle was not working for me, so I jogged left toward the 5.7, got a bit more height, grabbed the finger pocket, delicately traversed back to the ledge, and skipped a bolt to just clip above the ledge. Spicy!

Would have been a Redpoint, but rested a couple times on the way up. Sean followed my beta on TR, then moved the rope to Foxtrot for our top-out climb.

#6/6. Last climb of the day. Sean moved the rope from Polka to the rings, so we could do a couple quick TRs and exit at the top, avoiding about 45 mins of hiking out.

Great spot for top belay, hauling up packs, and top belay for second climber.

Since top roping off trees is not allowed, recommend only doing this if you can flash the climb without having to rest on a tree anchor.

Note: due to a poorly placed left foot one or two moves off the ground (read: just a flag instead of an actual toe) I overworked my right index finger and now have a sore/swollen pulley. Yay. Still worth it. 🤣