This recently established climb follows cracks through the slab to the headwall. It is the longest climb established in the area.
P1: 5.4 40m From the base of the cliff, follow a gentle slab that was eed 9of vegetation to a bolted anchor.
P2: 5.4 40m Keep following the slab using cracks to make your way up to a ledge. The bolted anchor is on the right end of the ledge.
P3: 5.7 65m Reach a left-leaning crack and follow it until you have to transfer to a larger crack (climber's right). Bolted anchor.
Variant: Following the crack on the left of the ledge brings you to another bolted anchor from which you must climb a long section of slab (PG13) to regain the anchor of P3
P4: 5.8+ 40m There are two options ending at the same bolted anchor. The difficulty is similar. Left or right.
Left variant: Follow a smaller crack and traverse under a small roof (small holds) to regain the main crack.
Right variant: Follow the obvious crack up and right.
P5: 5.8 40m Follow the same crack system as it widens, to another bolted anchor.
P6: 5.10 40m Climb up to a ramp and follow it out right as it becomes steeper. Brawl with the dihedral and make your up to another bolted anchor.
Variant: Just left of this pitch is a bolted slab 5.10+ (?) that ends at the same anchor.
P7: 5.9 25m Climb through the remains of a rockfall (1990), up the dihedral and over the edge to a bolted anchor just below the money pitch!
P8: 5.10c 30m Follow the hand/fist crack through a few steeper sections with rests. Once you get to the roof, step out left to the bolted anchor. Watch out for rope wear (sharp rock) as you belay the second.
Variant: See: "Macaque-Attaque"
P9: 5.7 20m Follow broken cracks to the top of the climb. A fixed rope extends out right from the anchor to the return path.
Descent: Follow the descent path (climber's right) for 30 back to the main path (close to the base). Enjoy a swim in the Neilson river.
FFA: Francis Lessard, Antoine Guérette & Jean-François Bernier, Ago 2020