Aiuto

Grandes Dalles

  • Contesto grado: US
  • Foto: 1
  • Ascensioni: 5

Accesso: Closed during hunting season. September 30 to October 15, 2023

This is very important as the owner has threatened to shut down the access if this is not respected. Please cooperate.

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Ha creato 2 anni fa - Ha modificato 8 mesi fa
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Stagionalità

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Descrizione

This is the east face of the Gros Bonnet. There aren't many established climbs up the face so far but it is seeing a lot of development recently.

Limitazioni per l'accesso ereditato da Gros Bonnet

The access is closed for hunting season every year. Dates change yearly.

  • October 1st to 16th, 2022
  • October 2nd to 17th, 2021
  • October 3rd to 18th, 2020
  • October 5th to 20th, 2019
  • September 29th to October 14th, 2018
  • September 30th to October 15th, 2017
  • October 1st to October 16th, 2016

A 11.50$ per car fee must be paid at the entrance of the ZEC. They currently only serve one customer at a time (JULY 2021) so be prepared to spend a few minutes in line.

It is also possible to settle the entry fee online: https://pavnew.manisoft.ca/login.php?idZec=batiscan_neilson

Avvicinamento

(47.133455, -71.872700)

500m after the main wall's parking, park near an access to the river. Across the road, you'll find a well-marked trail to the base of the climb. At the fork, stay left to get to the base, right to hike to the top.

Note calata

Hike off to climber's right from the summit. 30-45 mins.

Tags

Vie

Aggiungi via Aggiungi scheda Riordina Modifica in blocco Converti gradi
Grado Via
1 5.4
2 5.4
3 5.7
4 5.8
5 5.8
6 5.10
7 5.9
8 5.10c
9 5.7

This recently established climb follows cracks through the slab to the headwall. It is the longest climb established in the area.

  1. P1: 5.4 40m From the base of the cliff, follow a gentle slab that was eed 9of vegetation to a bolted anchor.

  2. P2: 5.4 40m Keep following the slab using cracks to make your way up to a ledge. The bolted anchor is on the right end of the ledge.

  3. P3: 5.7 65m Reach a left-leaning crack and follow it until you have to transfer to a larger crack (climber's right). Bolted anchor. Variant: Following the crack on the left of the ledge brings you to another bolted anchor from which you must climb a long section of slab (PG13) to regain the anchor of P3

  4. P4: 5.8+ 40m There are two options ending at the same bolted anchor. The difficulty is similar. Left or right. Left variant: Follow a smaller crack and traverse under a small roof (small holds) to regain the main crack. Right variant: Follow the obvious crack up and right.

  5. P5: 5.8 40m Follow the same crack system as it widens, to another bolted anchor.

  6. P6: 5.10 40m Climb up to a ramp and follow it out right as it becomes steeper. Brawl with the dihedral and make your up to another bolted anchor. Variant: Just left of this pitch is a bolted slab 5.10+ (?) that ends at the same anchor.

  7. P7: 5.9 25m Climb through the remains of a rockfall (1990), up the dihedral and over the edge to a bolted anchor just below the money pitch!

  8. P8: 5.10c 30m Follow the hand/fist crack through a few steeper sections with rests. Once you get to the roof, step out left to the bolted anchor. Watch out for rope wear (sharp rock) as you belay the second. Variant: See: "Macaque-Attaque"

  9. P9: 5.7 20m Follow broken cracks to the top of the climb. A fixed rope extends out right from the anchor to the return path.

Descent: Follow the descent path (climber's right) for 30 back to the main path (close to the base). Enjoy a swim in the Neilson river.

FFA: Francis Lessard, Antoine Guérette & Jean-François Bernier, Ago 2020

1 5.11b
2 5.8

A two-pitch Variant to the classic "L'Odyssée". There are now 5 bolts on it and it is recommended to bring a few small cams.

  1. P1: 5.11b At the P7 anchor, follow the overhanging crack to the point of the rock formation. The crux is a long dynamic move from one jug to another, on the right-hand face. Bolted anchor.

  2. P2: 5.8 From there, head up and right to flirt with the void, where a hidden hand crack allows you up. Traverse left, up, and then right under the roof. From there, straight up to regain the P8 of "L'Odyssée".

The climb has only seen a few free ascents and there is not yet a consensus on the grade. Some loose bits. Would avoid with parties under.

FFA: Daniel Rodas Bautista & Édouard Mongeau

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