Vie in The Apron

Start at the left side of the lower apron.

1. (5.7 30m) Climb up a shallow groove, then past a bolt then up slab to an anchor.

2. (5.7 30m) Foot traverse up and right along the crack, then up a bulge and a few face moves to an anchor.

3. (5.7 20m) Follow the bolts (6?) to the next anchor.

4. (5.8 10m) Follow the bolts up the head wall, then up to the anchor. Rappel; or continue past the anchor to trees if continuing up the Apron.

Can be linked into just two pitches.

P1: Start on the far right of the lower apron, climb 5.6 cracks up to a slab, smear your way 2m left of the single bolt, then head up to the anchors between the trees.

P2: move the anchor left and smear up slab last bolts

P3: continue up slab last bolts.

Instead of moving left at the first bolt of Senior Moment, continue straight up. At the top of P1, continue up over the overlap.

Guidebook description; “a proud tick by those capable and delivers a good adrenaline rush to all but the most seasoned of slab climbers-legendary friction route”. First 2 pitches of dièdre (trad) before trending right onto open slab for 5 pitches of friction climbing with spaced bolts. Take #1 Camelot for the overlap in .10B pitch. Join final pitch of dièdre (small gear in corner). Tree belay.

Starts to the right of Diedre, from same ledge to Horizontal crag and then follow the three bolts. All anchors are bolted except the third and 6th pitch which end big ledges with plenty of trees to choose from. You might want a couple of middle sized cams but 98% bolted, bolts are close enough to avoid big falls and just before all crux moves. Technically 6 pitches but last one its short and scrambly can be linked with a 60m to the ledge so most parties would do in 5.

P1: start just right of Diedre and pad up the slab past horizontal cracks, then trend right through rolls to belay at a higher seam. P2: Move up and through a mantle, trend leftwards for easier 5.8 then back right to a large tree island. or trend straight up (10b, FA unknown) P3:move the Belay down rightwards down the treed ramp to a large pine, then continue up the crack above to another tree island. P4: From the treed ledge continue up past 2 bolts to a gear + one bolt anchor. P5: Move left crossing Two Scoops to a corner, follow this for 3m then step left past a bolt, and pad up the slab to the base of a long corner system. P6: continue up the corner system to a belay at

One of the harder, but more interesting slab climbs on the apron. Mostly bolted and likey empty.

Optional trad gear at overlap. (0.3-0.5BD cams, medium wires)

220m. A generally easy and un-sustained, but sometimes run-out climb across and up the Apron.

1. (5.4, 20-30m) Climb easy but unprotected slab to a horizontal break, then traverse right until a pair of birch trees.

2. (5.easy, 30m) Continue right along the horizontal break, slightly up then curving back down until a stand of trees.

3. (5.5 R, 15m) Stem up a tree, then step onto a slab. Friction up the unprotected slab to more trees.

4. (5.7, 30m) Climb unprotected slab above the trees towards trending leftwards, then step right to a bolt. Pull a couple 5.7 moves past the bolt, then more unprotected slab left to a corner. Surmount the corner and bulge above, then traverse up and left to trees.

5. (5.4, 15m) Move left to an obvious flake then up into a groove. Make a gear belay.

6. (5.7, 30m) Pull up onto the slab right of the belay and angle up and right on un-protected slab to into a corner, follow this for a bit, then left and up to trees.

7. (5.4 50m) Climb up into a water runnel; follow this and obvious cracks until you find a stance with small gear behind a flake and belay.

8. (5.4 50m) Continue up the flake above past a detached piece of slab, then up the easier slab to the trees.

The first route climbed on the apron. Run out with intriguing rock features known as "The Elephant Steps"

5 pitches, all bolted belay stations. Rappel descent. See quickdraw publications free topos for details.

1. Starts up a finger crack at the base of the v-groove on the approach to the start of Diedre, Banana Peel, etc.

2. Head up the crack on the right of the belay, it gets thinner as it goes up and ends with a short slab section protected by a single bolt. Same anchor as pitch 1 of Dirty Little White Boys.

3. Go up and right through the trees and up the ramp to the bolted belay just above the fir tree.

4. Enjoy the laybacks right up the dihedral until you reach the bolted belay. (If you plan to skip the final 5.10 pitch head right to the rappel anchor just before the top of the pitch.)

5. Thin corners with a bolted face climb in the middle and ends with a short downclimb to reach the final anchor. Rap from here using the dedicated rappel route (climbers right of the trees), or quest onto the blank slab above (pitch 5 of Dream On).

The route combines a number of new pitches with old pitches of 'Bloodlust' and 'Bandwagon'.

1. Ascend the slab past several bolts and discontinuous crack features to a ledge on the right

2. Thin moves with close bolts leads to easy rambling and a station 10m above the large ledge

3. Step right into the thin corner and follow it all the way to the top. A few face moves to the left take you to the anchor. Many nut and small cam placements

4. Past an old chain station at the top of the corner, and horizontally out right across the slab. You will be crossing Dancing in the Light at your 4th bolt. Continue right to the base of a crack system.

5. Up intermittent cracks until forced to step right around the arête into flakes on the side-wall of the Diedre corner. Up these for several metres, then back left past two bolts into the next crack system. You may need to give climbers on Diedre space when in the close section. Belay at the large ledge with a cedar tree.

6. The splitter hands-to-fingers corner, and face crack above. Begin on the right behind the tree.

7. Step right into a scoop, and follow the blunt arête to a station just below a ramp leading to Broadway ledge.

Gear:

• Nuts
• Cams TD to #3
• Double Cams to #1

Descent:

Probably wise to keep the rope on to get up onto Broadway, then down right to the top of Diedre. 40m 4th class. Standard Apron descent to the South.

Nails slab.

The last two pitches of Long Time no See can be used to climb from the top any North Apron route to above Memorial Ledge. Start at two bolts at the scramble below Memorial, just to the left of Karen's math start.

Direct start for Calculus Crack so you don't have to start in the trees on the first two pitches of St. vitus Dance.

P1: Start up passing a bolt and head toward an obvious left facing crack. Pull into the crack (crux) and continue up insecure moves to you can step right and up a flake. Gear Belay above the flake.

P2: Long pitch starting up multiple flakes and continuing on easy ground to some flaring crack moves near the top. Bolted belay.

This pitch is the easiest way to start any climb on the North Apron. It is mostly steep tree climbing, with a few moves in a crack.

From the top of the pitch, there are now 4 options to get to Baseline ledge, listed from left to right:

1. South Arete p2 (5.8)

2. Ha7lh Skwalwen (10.a)

3. St. Bernard p1 (5.9)

4. St. Vitus Direct (5.10a)

In order to arrive at Baseline ledge (and access St. Vitus, South Arete, etc.), one has to climb two marginal pitches in the trees.

This pitch (the first pitch of St. Bernard), offers a better variation to the second pitch in the trees. It is the obvious hand crack that starts above a stump.

First two pitches can be done through the trees if starting on the right hand side or do Calculus Direct and start in Pitch 3 of Calculus Crack route;

1. Start as for St Vitus' Dance to tree belay in ledge

2. Keep going up through the trees with a hard move right of the ledge 3)Step left into two bolt anchor so you get belayed with no rope drag, and follow the double crag until gets steep, step left and build gear belay small ledge at the start of finger crack, long pitch 50m

3. Climb the finger crack with solid finger locks and solid gear, a few more meters of easier climbing and build belay at start of next steep ramp

4. Continue up the crag and keep going up until the angle eases into an easy slab and angle right to a two bolt belay 6)Keep going up through easy terrain to the ledge, we did it unroped or possible to combine with previous pitch just continue going up until you reach the trees and memorial ledge

Approach: Walk along the Mamquam Road up to the fire hazard sign and follow the trail through boulders to the first obvious climb. This is 'Calculus Crack Direct'. You want to head right around the corner.

1. Pull a short crack move to trees and roots pulling until a second, somewhat longer, crack.

2. Climb up a broken crack system to baseline ledge. Consider climbing the obvious hand to off-width crack listed as 'St. Bernard P1' instead.

3. The long obvious hand-crack. Belay just above a bulge. Keep a #3 for the anchor.

4. Step up and right, following discontinued cracks to a chimney-like feature with a crack inside. Belay off of a combination of cams, bush and slung flake.

5. Climb up the shallow cracks to a steep hand crack. Belay off of a tree or (70m) link to the top.

6. Wander up the slab and move left to a low angle crack with a high first step. Belay off of a tree.

Descent:

Recommended

Rappel off of calculus crack's anchor into the gully (4x 30m) ;

Or

Exposed

Scramble up a short right-leaning crack to a ledge below 'Karen's Math' and wander up the gully to the right. Keep going right to broadway ledge and descend along the south trail.

Lowest baseline ledge: the crack between St. Bernard and Calculus Crack/South Arete/St. Vitus. To reach this route, climb the first pitch of St. Vitus/Calculus Crack to Lower Baseline Ledge. Ha7lh Skwalwen will bring you to upper baseline ledge.

Approach: Climb the standard approach pitch of "St. Vitus' Dance" to lower Baseline Ledge.

1. step off the cut stump and climb the hand crack to its top then transition left to gain Baseline Ledge

2. climb the cracks left "St. Vitus' Dance" to gain a bolted anchor

3. climb up through short cracks and pods to gain a foot ledge, transition right to gain pitch-three of "St. Vitus' Dance"

4. Finish "St. Vitus' Dance".

Gear: Rack to 4 inches. Double hand sizes.

Source Squamish Facebook page

p1: climb the long, 50m crack above Baseline ledge, starting just to the right of St. Vitus' Dance. Belay off of one bolt and a #1,#2, or #3 BD. (5.8)

p2: Step right to access a very nice corner that is quite obvious from the Apron parking lot. (10c) At the top, step left and gear belay on St. Vitus' Dance. This is a variation to Vector -- the original line, at 5.9, goes straight up dirty cracks above the first pitch.

p3-p4: Climb the last pitches of St. Vitus' Dance. With a 70m, one can link these pitches and reach the trees.

From the baseline ledge follow a line left of st Vitus. Possible to make it a 10b by going up the first pitch of st Vitus off baseline ledge.

1. (5.11a) bolted face and crack climbing to belay just left of st Vitus

2. (5.10b) up steep wall and belay on slab above.

3. (5.10a) friction slab up to terrace Join last pitch of calculus/south arete

Starts at the Memorial Ledge. climb up the obvious crack. 40m Belay off of hidden bolts on the boulder at the top.

Start as for Boomstick Crack, moving right to the crack via the bolt, then up the crack for two long pitches, passing a second bolt about 1/3 of the way up the second pitch. Tree belay at the top, then rap the route via 4 rap anchors. WARNING: The second rap is about 33m, so stop at the tree just above the chains!

From the top of the apron take the trail towards the Squamish Buttress.

P1: face climb past a small roof and one bolt, then follow broken cracks and face holds up and left to a tree anchor

P2: Climb more broken cracks left towards a large ledge and belay from a tree

P1 & 2 can be linked with a 70m rope.

P3&4: Moderate climbing up broken 5.7 terrain.

P5: climb the vertical crack over some broken terrain to a tree anchor below the white 10c corner. \

P6: Thre wicked-looking steep, white corner. Jam and stem your way to the top! The top is the crux but can be easily aided with good gear. The fixed pin mentioned in guide books is long gone, but there are good nut placements instead.

This route has it all, from hand jams to fist cams, slot climbing, and delicate slab. you can use this route to link into P3 of the Squamish Buttress/ Butt Light

P1: climb a hand crack through a small roof to a slot chimney past a large block.

P2: smear up a thin right-leaning seam (small gear and nuts) to the base of a large block. traverse rightwards around the block to a steep burly finish.

Direct start to the squamish buttress. Starts off of the trail, just before the original start. Bolted climbing leads to a gear protected flake. Can easily link into the second pitch of the buttress in one long pitch.

From the top of the apron take the trail towards the Squamish Buttress.

P1: face climb past a small roof and one bolt, then follow broken cracks and face holds up and left to a tree anchor

P2: Climb more broken cracks left towards a large ledge and belay from a tree

P1 & 2 can be linked with a 70m rope.

P3&4: Moderate climbing up broken 5.7 terrain.

P5: move the belay across the ledge to a pair of bolts at the base of a large vertical flake corner. climb this then traverse broken ledges to a bolted anchor.

P6: The money pitch! walk across the ledge to the end and mantle up, then climb the large chimney with good gear in the back to a tree anchor.

P7: more broken low 5th terrain to a tree anchor at the top.

The Great Arch is one of squamish's very best difficult stemming corners. With no moves being too difficult, it will stay on you till the VERY end and leave you wondering why your legs still hurt 3 days later. The guidebook gives a 13a rating but locals believe it to be more in the 12+ range. A fantastic route. Location The Great Arch is located just left of the second pitch of Rock On. It is accessed via the top of pitch one from rock on or a dirty 4th class low 5th pitch lookers left of the climb. Protection It was originally climbed with fixed pins, then retro bolted after the removal of the pins. The climb has been done (twice) by my knowledge on gear (I watched my partner send skipping the bolts and placing 25 pieces.) However, if you don't have the time to figure out the gear and are less inclined for that challenge, there are 8 bolts. The climb still requires a set of micro nuts, and doubles from very small to .5 camelot and one each from green camalot to gold. An all gear ascent will require the full gamet including brass nuts, 000 c3s etc.