Vie come trad in Valhalla Provincial Park

The line obvious from the carpark, and the most popular route. Starts in the corner at the base of the ridge, and stays within 10m of the arete for the entire climb. Cruxy first pitch, with a more exposed move around the roof on pitch 8.

Takes the prominent open book corner in the centre of the west face to a roof halfway up, turned to the left. Possible to rap off from top of pitch 4 but not after this. Pitch 1. 35m up left slanting flake then back right to belay at slung boulder P2. 35 m up left slanting flake, passing a rappel station 5 m to the left on ledge. Continue 10 m past this stepping right to ledge with fixed wires. P3. 5.10b 40m Up stacked flakes until just below rooflet and hand traverse righteous corner system and up to small foot ledge and flakes to belay. There is fixed gear 5 m higher but not a good belay spot. P4 5.9 35 m up line to below triangular roof. Turn this to left then trend right up face before stepping left to 2 bolts under large roof. This is last chance to abseil. ( two 70 m abseils will get you down) P5 5.10d 20m traverse left under roof then up P6 5.8 15 m up to ledge P7 5.7 35m move to l side of ledge and up flakes to alcove P8 5.8 50m up from alcove then left to L facing corner P9.5.3 50 m up to summit ridge Descend via east ridge

Start at the right facing corner about 8m left of 'South Face'.

1. Climb up right facing corner to the ledge above.

2. Continue up to the right of the roof to the bolted belay at the top of the right facing corner.

3. Follow the features out right and up. (no bolted belay)

4. Work back left towards the summit. (bolted anchor at the top)

Descent: Two 60m ropes required, two 70m recommended) Rappel Down using the anchors of Pitch 4 to the top of pitch 2. Could not find the anchor for pitch 1 (June 2020), but using two 70m ropes can rappel all the way to the base from the top of pitch 2. You could also go into the gully of pitch 1 of 'South Face' and link a 3rd rappel from the small spire in the gully (slings in place but don't appear to be in the best shape).

Start as per 'South Face Direct'.

1. as per 'South Face Direct'.

2. as per 'South Face Direct'.

3. Follow bolts up for a more direct finish to the anchor above.

Descent: as per 'South Face Direct'.

Start below the gully in the middle of the south face, just left of the small cave.

1. Climb up the gully to a small alcove just below the steep face.

2. Continue up the off-width crack in the steep face, features inside the crack provide good hand holds. Continue up the slab above and then climb the chimney through the hole above. Anchor on the steep face to the left.

3. Climb the exposed steep face to the summit. It is possible to use the bolted anchors of 'South Face Direct' at the top.

Descent: Two 60m ropes required, two 70m recommended) Rappel Down using the anchors of 'South Face Direct'. Could not find the anchor for pitch 1 (June 2020), but using two 70m ropes can rappel all the way to the base from the top of pitch 2. You could also go into the gully of pitch 1 of 'South Face' and link a 3rd rappel from the small spire in the gully (slings in place but don't appear to be in the best shape).