Vie in West Kootenays del grado selezionato

mixed

All trad version of 'Crowbar Direct' which starts just to the right.

Variation of "Dead Coyote's Folly"

Crosses 'Sad Goat'. Easier variation of pitch 2 goes at 5.10a if you start 3m left of the anchors of pitch 1.

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1. Climb the crack to the left of pitch 1 of 'Hail Mary'.

2. Same as 'Hail Mary'.

3. Cut right to the steep angled crack.

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Climb right through two fixed draws then continue up the face on the right.

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Shares an anchor with 'Rash Decision'.

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Takes the prominent open book corner in the centre of the west face to a roof halfway up, turned to the left. Possible to rap off from top of pitch 4 but not after this. Pitch 1. 35m up left slanting flake then back right to belay at slung boulder P2. 35 m up left slanting flake, passing a rappel station 5 m to the left on ledge. Continue 10 m past this stepping right to ledge with fixed wires. P3. 5.10b 40m Up stacked flakes until just below rooflet and hand traverse righteous corner system and up to small foot ledge and flakes to belay. There is fixed gear 5 m higher but not a good belay spot. P4 5.9 35 m up line to below triangular roof. Turn this to left then trend right up face before stepping left to 2 bolts under large roof. This is last chance to abseil. ( two 70 m abseils will get you down) P5 5.10d 20m traverse left under roof then up P6 5.8 15 m up to ledge P7 5.7 35m move to l side of ledge and up flakes to alcove P8 5.8 50m up from alcove then left to L facing corner P9.5.3 50 m up to summit ridge Descend via east ridge

Start as per 'South Face Direct'.

1. as per 'South Face Direct'.

2. as per 'South Face Direct'.

3. Follow bolts up for a more direct finish to the anchor above.

Descent: as per 'South Face Direct'.

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Left crack on Cannabis Wall.

Top rope using anchor of 'Down The Rabbit Hole'.

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Double ropes recommended.

Straight up line to anchors 3m left of chimney