Tutti 79 vie visualizzati.
Grado | Via | Stile equipaggiamento | Popolarità | ||
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双廊 Shuang Lang 软 Softcore | |||||
5.11b | 快死 6 inches from 6 feet under
Climb the tufa straight off the ground to a cruxy 4th bolt. There may be an easier way to do the crux. Rest in the cave before continuing through another crux and an interesting finish. Be very careful clipping the third bolt, as Adam almost took a ground fall on the attempted first ascent after a blown foothold. FA: Dane | ||||
5.7 | ★★ 偷菜 Table Score
Climb straight up through some massive ledges, into some nice cracks, then up onto the ledges on the left. If possible, clip the anchor from inside the cave rather than from the chossy rock pile to the right. FA: Adam & Ahui, 2008 | ||||
5.7 | ★ 甘肃之恋 From Gansu with Love
| 19m | |||
5.10c | ★★ 训练手塞 Hand Jamming for Dummies
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5.10c | ★★ 你的双是多廊的?How Lang is Your Shuang?
Shares an anchor with Hand-Jamming for Dummies. FA: Adam & Ahui, 2008 | ||||
5.9 | ★★ 你一开线,他们就会过来 If you Bolt it, they will come
This route is perhaps the most fun in Shuanglang, interesting moves the whole way up. Just be aware of the massive block on the ledge that may be standing on to clip the anchor. FA: Adam & Ahui | ||||
5.10a | ★ 山姆大叔的报仇 Uncle Sam’s Revenge
This route shares an anchor with “If you bolt it, they will come” though it is definitely less interesting. FA: Adam | ||||
5.8 | ★ 仙人掌裤子 Cactus Pants
Some tricky moves down low lead to fun 5.5 moves on the second half. A little dirty at parts. FFA: Ofir FA: Adam, 2010 | ||||
5.9 | 不是冬天的感觉 It doesn’t feel like winter
Short route with a high first bolt. FA: LiuYong, 2009 | ||||
5.10d | ★ 欢迎到岩壁来!Welcome to the Rock
Cruxy second clip. Finishes at the tufa, high and off to the right, with a pumpy second half. FA: Adam | ||||
5.11c | 耶稣哭了 Jesus Wept
Weak beginning but an interesting crux. FA: Dane | ||||
5.10d | 鹰屎的河流 River of Poo
Crux is harder for short climbers. Nesting birds make full “use” of this route during some parts of the year. FA: Adam | ||||
5.11c | 复原按钮在哪里?Where’s the Reset Button?
Pumpy and sustained with great moves the whole way. | ||||
5.11d | ★ 千年鹰号 Millennium Falcon
This route shares the first two bolts with stairmaster. Mind the loose block below the chimney. FA: Adam | ||||
5.10c | ★ 转世 Transmigration
It’s possible to climb stairmaster all the way to the top before moving into the second half of Millenium Falcon. Done this way, the crux is bypassed but the route is still quality! FA: Dane | ||||
5.9 | 攀梯运动 Stairmaster
This route is pretty unique at Shuanglang; don’t be fooled by the low angle. FFA: Roman FA: Adam | ||||
5.10a | ★★ 腐烂的心脏 Tainted Heart
Slabby route with a few nice holds, about 15m down the hill, to the right of stairmaster. Scary crux. FA: Drew | ||||
5.10a | 中药蘑菇 Medicinal Mushroom
Down and around the corner from Tainted Heart. FA: Reshi | ||||
5.8 | 软型 Softcore
There are a couple of ways to climb this one. Be careful clipping the first bolt. FA: Dane | ||||
5.10b | 青蜂侠 The Green Hornet
Great line! Don’t be deterred by the chossy bottom. Avoid going left near the top. Hard to clip anchor. FA: Adam | ||||
双廊 Shuang Lang 硬 Hardcore | |||||
5.11a | Back-Alley Liposuction 胡同吸脂术
Crux used to be much easier, until a crucial flake was pulled off. Very reachy. FA: Nicole | ||||
5.10d | Nude Nuns with Big Guns 霹雳修女
This is probably the best route of the four at the “girlfriend cliff.” Good climbing with the crux at the last move. FA: Dane | ||||
5.10c | Awaken Mustakrakesh 唤醒巨魔
The start for this route is annoying/scary because of the band of choss that runs across it. FA: Amir | ||||
5.10a | Requiem for a Thornbush 荆棘安魂曲
The choss band runs across this route as well, but there is some sweet tufa climbing above. FA: Dane | ||||
5.11c | Leviathan 大海兽
Full-on, right from the start, though the crux is higher-up. Powerful climbing leads to delicate crux. FA: Dane | ||||
5.11b | The Face of All Your Fears 恐惧的外貌
Start by climbing the tufa and join the groove up the start of Mel’s Exciting Crack. Reach out right to clip the bolts and then break right for a relentless series of moves. Interesting and varied climbing leads to a beautiful crux move near the top. Awesome. FA: Amir | ||||
5.10b | ★★ Mel’s Exciting crack 刺激裂缝
Thrust up a ledge into a groove, and then up into the wide crack. Excellent climbing that is perhaps a little run-out. Guaranteed excitement. FA: Dane | ||||
5.10a | ★★★ Bunny-hug 兔子拥抱
Scramble up the short section of somewhat dirty rock to a wonderful and clean dihedral adventure. FA: Nicole | ||||
5.12c | The Black Lake Nidstang
A very hard start. Glorious and dynamic slab, tufa, and stalactite climbing above. | ||||
5.11a | Pure Fucking Armageddon 世界末日
Super sustained climbing using crimps, jugs, slopers, and hand-jams. Shares an anchor with PROJECT2. FA: Amir | ||||
5.10c | As sweet as a Stolen Kiss 甜的像亲吻
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5.10a | Death, Murder, Blood, Gore 出血的死亡
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5.10b | In the Clutches of Uncle Lirui
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5.11b | Angels Fall First 天使先坠
Start to the right of the obvious tufa line of L.D.G. Balance and crimp strength will see you through the crux and lead you to a choose-your-own-adventure pocket finish. FA: Amir | ||||
5.10b | ★★★ L.D.G.
A beautiful tufa line which leads to a large ominous stalactite. This is one of the gems of Shuang Lang. FA: Amir | ||||
5.12a | Insight and Catharsis 精神洗涤
A hard start brings you to stimulating and pleasant dihedral and face climbing. The relaxed climbing comes to an end when you reach the upper crux, an Über -technical stemming dance up a featureless overhanging corner. Gym climbers beware. FA: Dane | ||||
5.12c | Stoon Steeze
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5.10c | Nuts and Ovaries 岩塞和卵子
TRADITIONAL CLIMB with bolted anchor Clip the first few bolts of Scaling the Walls of Mordor and then head bravely into wild, unbolted territory. Good gear and decent rests. The top part of the crack is about as good as limestone crack climbing gets. Falls have been taken, and yes, the gear does hold. Bring gear to 3 inches. If you have no cams, nuts, or ovaries, then you can also climb Scaling the Walls of Mordor and lower into the anchor of this climb to set up a top-rope. But that would be lame. FA: Dane | ||||
5.10d | Scaling the Walls of Mordor 攀登魔都的墙壁
Head up the groove at the bottom of a large crack and move left with difficulty to establish on the left side of the wall. Climbing sharp black rock for a few bolts is rewarded with great orange rock above. FA: Dane | ||||
5.12c | Stoon
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5.12b | Poser Disposer 清除装腔作势的人
Climb up the overhanging arête with powerful and precise movement to a fantastic and sustained face and arête climb. FA: Amir | ||||
5.11b | Mortification of the Flesh 苦修
Climb up the right side of the face, using the arête when necessary. Crimpy face climbing. One section of sharp crimps deters from the otherwise pleasant climbing. FA: Amir | ||||
5.11d | El Male Rachamin 仁慈的上帝
Climb up the big block to start and then go up the middle of the wall. Follow the crimpy slopers to the tufas, pull over the dirty tufas to an easy ride to the finish. FA: Amir | ||||
5.9 | Spread Your Legs and Trust the Rubber 劈腿而信任橡胶
Climb up the big block and move into the corner. Stemming, tufas, and hidden pockets, this route has it all. A delightful climb at an accessible grade. FA: Dane | ||||
5.10d | Faustian Bargain
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5.9 | Easier than Done 谈何容易
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5.9 | Kerouac Crack
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5.10c | Furu Rimjob
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双廊 Shuang Lang | |||||
5.12d | Project3
Begin to the left of the short section of dirty rock and do battle with a deceptively easy looking wall of small crimps and shallow pockets. A somewhat good rest hold near the top allows you to prepare yourself for the powerful and technical boulder problem guarding the chains. | ||||
5.9 | Zai Shuo Yi Bian
| 21m | |||
宾川观音箐 Binchuan Guanyinqing | |||||
5.10b | Nutriexpress
Be careful clipping the second bolt. FA: Dao Hen | ||||
5.8 | ★ Crazy Stone
Climb only to the first anchor. Not sure about the second one above. FA: Ma Yun | ||||
5.11c | ★★★ Towards Nirvana
Classic route! FA: Fang Qiang | ||||
5.11c | ★★★ Half -Man
This route was originally graded 5.11a but you will see from the last move that this is clearly not the case. FA: Ma Yun | ||||
5.10a | ★★ Wild Drum
Climb the tufa straight up to the anchor. FA: Ma Yun | ||||
5.12 | Project
Last move to the anchor is basically impossible. Otherwise, the climb is probably 5.11-. Feel free to try it and clip the anchor on the right instead. | ||||
5.12a | To Infinity and Beyond
Overhanging and sustained. Soft for the grade. FFA: Adam FA: Simon | ||||
5.10b | Loose Rock Issues
This route is rarely climbed. See name of route for reason. FA: Ma Yun | ||||
石门关 Shi Men Guan | |||||
5.10a | Flamingo Kid
This route is on the large boulder. There is a V0- boulder problem to establish on the comfy belay ledge. Excellent slab climbing. Worth it. FA: Drew | ||||
5.10d | 被偷的粑粑 Stolen Baba
A thought-provoking and unique start is only the beginning for this rather enjoyable line. Great movement at the top. FFA: Dane FA: Adam | ||||
5.10b | 樱桃处女 Cherry Poppin’
Enjoyable, moderate slab climbing to a short arête (climb either side of the arête). The first route bolted in Shimenguan. “Please, be gentle…” FFA: Drew FA: Dane | ||||
5.10d | W.W.S.D.?
Fun slab climbing takes you to a little intermission ledge, then switch gears and do some powerful moves up crimps and ledges on the upper wall. FFA: Adam FA: Dane | ||||
5.11a | The Gardeners of Eden
Walk up the slab and do some easy moves till you get to a clearly-defined crux: a technical and cool mantle section. This route is more of a boulder problem than anything. FFA: Adam FA: Dane | ||||
5.10b | 花生酱在哪里? Where’s the Peanut Butter?
Underclings, slab, crimps, and edges. This climb is short but sweet. PB is in the Climb Dali fridge. FA: Adam | ||||
5.11b | 亚当刃岭 Kritz-arête
A scary and insecure boulder problem up the arête leads to a sweet roll over and more climbing above. FFA: Adam FA: Dane | ||||
5.8 | BB Kuen Kuen Chu
FA: Dane Schellenberg, 2012 | ||||
5.9 | 啦领域
FA: Dane Schellenberg, 2012 | ||||
5.10a | 魔鬼的徒弟
FA: Cody Millar & Adam Kritzer, 2012 | ||||
5.11c | Moxis 在屋顶地上 Moxis on the Roof David
Stand up on the little ledge and move into a powerful and stretchy undercling section. A great route with non-stop climbing. FA: Adam | ||||
5.12d | 血呕吐物 Blood Puke (Project)
This climb features incredibly technical moves on a vertical face. The route makes you puke blood right off the ground and doesn’t really allow you an opportunity to wipe your face off till the end (unless you possess esoteric off-width climbing skills). Excellent climb. | ||||
5.10d | 红胡子的选择 Red Beard’s Choice
One of the best climbs in Shimenguan. Sustained and hard climbing using crimps, slopers, and handjams. The start is a little tricky to figure out. FA: Drew | ||||
5.12a | 再见,谢谢你的挂片 So Long and thanks for the bolts
Delicate and insecure climbing up a groovy corner into a powerful upper wall of gently overhanging rock. Halfway through the route there is a large run-out through an easy, ladder-like section. If you feel scared then suck it up or bring a cam, anything from BD#1 to #4 will fit. FA: Simon | ||||
5.12d/13a | Open PROJECT
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5.10b | 调情
FA: Dane Schellenberg & Adam Kritzer, 2012 | ||||
5.7 | 烤羊肉
FA: Adam Kritzer & Dane Schellenberg, 2012 | ||||
5.6 | 驴肉热狗
FA: Lara Prince & Dane Schellenberg, 2012 | ||||
5.11b | Vulcan 的玄秘
FA: Dane Schellenberg, 2012 | ||||
大理坞抱石 Daliwood Bouldering | |||||
V0+ | Genesis
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V3 | Into the Bush Low
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Tutti 79 vie visualizzati.