Ascensioni in Gebiet der Steine che possiede Informazioni sui passaggi

2.Begehung

right variant, i would say VIIb

17.Begehung

schwere VIIIa

richtiges plaisir klettern für sächsiche verhältnisse. schön komplexe bewegungen.

11.Begehung

90.Begehung

direkt hoch VIIIb-c

quite hard!

Fantastic wall climbing. The hardest bit is over after the second ring, but still great moves and demanding climbing to the top. Good protection (a few rock tunnels and a good placement for a bigger knotted sling).

Easy wall at the start to the big overhang. The ring was hard to reach for me, but there's a good sling below. Then powerful jug moves diagonally up through the steep, black wall to the second ring and straight up into easier terrain.

Better than it looks, but it was quite dirty indeed. Would be good if cleaned a bit. Nice hand crack, but hard to protect with slings. UFOs should work. Easy from the first ring, then a powerful two-move boulder over the roof to the top. The book at the summit is wet and rancid for some reason.

Dynamic move at 1st ring and then dangerous few meters above. Fall from crack would be fatal.

Doesn't appear so inviting but it's a nice classic, well protected and not difficult

saublöder 2. Ring

Wahnsinn

Mit Gohrischer Ausstieg

Schwerer Einstieg, oben plaisir

nice hand jams and some stemming. Good sling placements.

VIIb Rißkurs

Sehr schöne und gesicherte Möglichkeit auf den Pfeiler zu kommen. Hier bietet sich der Ausstieg über den Westweg an.

Witziger Quergang zum 1. Ring.

Eher Sportklettern als Traditionell. Ganz oben noch eine Sanduhr zu fädeln. Schöne Linie und angenehme Reibungskletterei mit dem ein oder anderen Henkel.

(95. Begehung)

Zum 1. Ring in der Verschneidung gekniffen. Der Rest ist ziemlich spektakuläre und luftige Reibung. Wow. Der Ausstiegsriss ist auch nochmal witzig ^^

Schöne Kletterei auf den Vorgipfel. Leichte Spreize, und mehrere Schlingen bis zum 1. Ring. Dort einmal kurz knackig hoch, und griffig zum 2. Ring. Vor diesem liegt sogar noch eine kleine SU.

Scary moves to the first bolt, easier with a bit more reach. Then again a bit scary a few meters after the ring, but once you find the big hidden hold, it's fine.

Nur klettern wenn es sehr trocken ist. Dann macht es echt Spaß, ich fand die schweren Züge waren in der Rissspur zum Ring hin. Lässt sich mit einem kleinen UFO gut absichern.

Sehr schöne Kantenkletterei am Ring. Der Ausstieg ist etwas moralisch, ich konnte aber neben dem Baumstumpf eine dünne SU legen.

Fantastic crack dihedral start with good placements, then easy walk to the first ring. Airy traverse in compact, black rock to the second ring. Nifty moves around the corner, then up to the ledge below the summit.

EV - chimney

Knackiger Ausstieg, aber durch Ring gut gesichert. Das Klippen desselben ist etwas aufregend, geht aber. (33. Begehung)

Actually wanted to climb the original, and apparently I did, even threaded a rock tunnel there, but it felt like I was too far on the left, almost merging into "Südwestwand", so I backtracked, traversed into the "Variante", climbed back and forth again to collect my slings, and finished the variant. Nice wall climbing along the crack in the lower part, steeper from the ring, sloper crux at the end.

Super gesichert. Weite Züge

Einstieg über AW/Reiner Zufall

1.SL Tobi (1m über 1.Ring ordentlich gestruggelt)

2.SL Elli

Begehung

Ein-Zug-Problem

Tricky dihedral start, which is actually the hardest part of the route. I needed a few minutes to acclimatize to sandstone (and placing slings) again, so probably not the best warmup, but a very good route. It's best to do it in two pitches, which somehow did not cross my mind; communication was almost impossible due to the wind, and it turned out the rope was too short, so in the end we were inadvertently simul-climbing. Fortunately, the last few meters aren't too bad and there's a good sling.

ideal finish for all the routes on this side

m.U.

Gorgeous dihedral, slightly overhanging. Brilliant moves, especially the ones away from the ring. Good protection with solid sling placements and some rock tunnels. The second pitch is a little dirty and overgrown, unfortunately. You could in principle skip it and climb another route to the summit (the belay ledge is reachable from the plateau, or the other way round).

Nur bis zum 1.R, weil der Rest feucht war. Die Schwierigkeit ist vorbei, sobald der Ring geclippt ist aber es wäre noch ein recht Weiter Weg bis z.G.

Not as crumbly as it Looks. Three interesting overhangs to pass. Reasonably pro.

Mit UFOs gut absicherbar. Coole Züge durchs Dach!